THE CLASSIC DZONGRI TREK IN WEST SIKKIM

Author: Ashish Kaul
Published on: Jan 20, 2000

Across the main Singalila Ridge ( see previous articles ) lies the Kangchenjunga massif comprising the main peak ( 8586 m ), the central peak ( 8482 m ) and the south peak ( 8476 m). To the north beyond Kangchenjunga, the Ridge glitters with the Nepal peak ( 6910 m ), Kirat Chuli ( 7365 m ), Pyramid peak ( 7123 m ), Dome Kang ( 7442 m ), Jongsang ( 7483 m ) and the Lonak peak ( 6710 m ). However, these peaks north of Kangchenjunga are not visible on the trek. [pandim_1.tif]It is peaks adjoining and to the south of Kangchenjunga and Talung ( 7349 m ) in the fabulous West Sikkim region that loom close and clear in breathtaking proportions. They include Kabru North ( 7338 m ), Kabru South ( 7317 m ), Kabru Dome ( 6600 m ), Forked peaks I, II, . III and IV ( 6100, 6000, 5900 and 5500 m ), Rahtong ( 6679 m ), Koktang ( 6147 m ), Sangri ( 5300 m ), Rinok ( 4800 m ), Khang ( 5560 m ). Two peaks in the region stand out for their unique appearance. The first is Kabur ( 4800 m ) near the Dzongri La, a black peak, sacred to the point that no one is allowed to step on it. The second is clearly the most beautiful peak in the amphitheatre, the Frey peak at 20,000 feet – a training peak of HMI Darjeeling. It pierces through the sky, its pinnacle being the first to catch the morning glow of the sun, shooting out from a huge tapering face of ice and rock. The peaks form an amphitheatre enclosing the formidable Rahtong glacier.

However, without getting into the amphitheatre, the best viewpoint of this close panorama, is Dzongri top, rising from the yak pastures of Dzongri.

STAGE 1 : This is a drive of about 6 to 7 hours from Darjeeling to Yuksom, the erstwhile capital of Sikkim. The road crosses the spectacular gorge enclosing the turbulent Teesta river, over the Coronation Bridge. A lunch break at Jorethang in Sikkim and then onwards to Yuksom via Legship, the route runs through the typical rural landscape of Sikkim with it’s stepped rice fields and green forests by the Teesta river roaring below. Yuksom has comfortable trekkers’ huts and even at it 5,800 feet altitude, boasts of the first views of Pandim and Kabru peaks.

STAGE 2 : This is a tough first day trek by any standards involving a steep walk through thickly forested ridges to Bakhim at 9,000 feet. The Teesta is crossed five times over rope bridges. It is advisable that not more than three people are over the rope bridge at the same time. Leeches and insects are the rule on this stage. A forest rest house and a suitable campsite provide welcome relief to a hard day. From Bakhim, Yuksom is seen far below in the horizon and Tiger Hill of Darjeeling, still valiantly attempts to raise is head before bowing out to the higher altitude. You could try “toomba”, the local liquor, at a little teashop at Bakhim, which is a small settlement with not more than 10 houses.

STAGE 3 : Mountaineers and very fit trekkers could proceed directly from Bakhim to Dzongri. However, others should much rather stop for the night at Pethang ( 3650 m ), a small grassy campsite with a water source close by on a side trail. On route, through meadows and forests, the Tibetan settlement of Tsoka ( pronounced Choka ) is arrived at. It has as usual a monastery and just a few houses. The trail has magnificent rhododendron forests, with glimpses of snow peaks at Pethang.

STAGE 4 : This is a steep stage reaching the ridgeline separating the Prek valley on one side and the Rahtong valley on the other. Back south are the ridges of Yuksom and to the north rises the Kangchenjunga. To its right and towards the northeast, looms the beautiful peak of Pandim and to the West beyond the Rahtong valley is the imposing Singalila Ridge. Passing by dwarf rhododendrons, the expansive yak pastures of Dzongri are reached. Ranging from 4,000 to 4,700 m, Dzongri is a large slice of the geography of the Tibetan highlands. Comfortable trekkers’ huts here as well.

STAGE 5 OR REST DAY : This involves climbing up to Dzongri top amidst snow flakes and sleet over fresh brown earth. An amazing panorama of the mighty peaks of West Sikkim rises suddenly and almost encircles Dzongri Top. This is clearly the high point of the trek. Advisable to start early as clouds come in blocking the view by around 11.00 in the morning.

RETURN STAGES : Return by the same route. However this time Dzongri to Bakhim could be done in one day with the second day on the trail to Yuksom.

Many other variations of this trek are possible. There are other interesting treks in the region as well. More about these later.