Milford Sound - Spectacular Serenity

Author: Kath Hobson
Published on: Jun 9, 2000

Haere Mai (Welcome),

I promised you two trips this month and I’m here again to deliver.

This time around I thought we might take a peek at the spectacular Milford Sound on New Zealand’s south island.

Milford sound is truly one of the most beautiful places on earth, the scenery is just awe-inspiring and almost beyond words. Even the trip to Milford is an adventure as you drive through Homer Tunnel, a completely hand carved tunnel 1.6 kilometers or one mile long, carved through the very center of New Zealand’s magnificent mountain ranges.

Milford Sound is located on the south west coast, in what is known a Fiordland, part of the wonderful alpine region of New Zealand. It is about 260 kilometers or 160 miles north-west of Dunedin. The first Europeans to visit Milford Sound were sealers and in 1822 it was given its European name by John Grono a New South Welshman in memory of his native Milford Haven in Wales. Mitre Peak, the trade mark of the Sound stands about half way along the Sound on its southern side and dominates the entire Sound.. Mitre Peak stands at 1,412 meters or 4,659.6 feet. Not far from the Sound is the king of Fiordland, Mt Tutoko which soars 2756 meters (9,095 feet) into the air.

There is much to do for the visitor to Milford Sound. You can wander around the wharf at Freshwater Basin and study the battered little cray fishing boats at their moorings and then continue further along the track to the foot of the beautiful Bowen Falls as they spill out into the sound. Bowen Falls were named after a former New Zealand Governor and leap in two steps from a high glacial hanging valley. When you visit the Sound be sure to take a boat trip on the beautiful clear waters to the base of Stirling Falls which cascade directly into the ocean or take the longer cruise to Anita Bay. If you are very lucky you may find your cruise is accompanied by one of the pods of dolphins that frequent the Sound.

Immediately to the south of Mitre Peak is Sinbad Gully. This deep valley is one of the last remaining habitats of the flightless parrot called the kakapo. This ground dwelling native bird of New Zealand is in sharp decline. In the 1860 explorers of the west coast complained of being unable to sleep because of the din the male of this species makes with his curious booming call. By the 1880’s these birds had begun to fall victim to introduced stoats and ship’s rats that were rapidly spreading into Fiordland. Unfortunately their ground nesting made them easy targets for these introduced scavengers. A few birds still exist, on Stewart Island, in Tutoko Valley and here in Sinbad Gully, the extinction of this curious little bird seems inevitable, however in order to try and stop this Sinbad Gully and Takahe Reserve are among the few parts of Fiordland to which public access is prohibited.

Also a part of this beautiful area is the Milford Track, a 55 kilometer (34 mile) walk that has been described as the most beautiful walk in the world. The track wends its way from Te Anau to Milford sound through some of the most picturesque landscapes in the world. You will walk through deep valleys carved by prehistoric glaciers as well as traversing high mountain passes. For many years the track was only opened to guided parties, however now you can take an escorted tour or join the many unguided "freedom walkers" who each year tackle the track, carrying all their supplies.

The track can easily be negotiated over a period of three days. However it should not be tackled without due respect. This is some of the roughest country in the world and the Fiordland is renowned for some of the most fickle weather in the world not to mention the torrential rain. If you are considering walking the track the basic requirements are moderate fitness, stout footwear and some form of waterproof protection. There are many Fiordland National Park huts along the track for the "freedom walkers" to stay in overnight. For those on the guided walks there are the more comfortable Tourist Corporation Huts.

One of the most awe-inspiring sights along the track are the 580 meter (1,914 feet) Sutherland Falls. Long thought to be the highest falls in the world they are in fact the fifth highest, but non the less impressive for all that. Sutherland Falls cascade down three giant leaps to the valley below. They were named after the "hermit of Milford", Donald Sutherland who lived in Milford from 1878 until his death in 1919. Along with his wife, Elizabeth, Donald Sutherland was the original owner of what is now the Milford Hotel.

I hope you have enjoyed your tour of Milford Sound and Fiordland and I will see you again next month when we will explore another part of New Zealand.