Landscaping 101

Lesson 8: Working With a Contractor & How to Start a Lawn

Seeding Your New Lawn

Seeding Methods. There are a number of acceptable ways to complete your seeding. For extremely small areas you can simply spread the seed by hand. With this method it is harder to achieve uniform distribution. For larger areas a broadcast or drop seeder can be used or a hand-held seeder. Seed can also be distributed mechanically with a drill or slit seeder. These are particularly effective for overseeding existing lawns and can normally be found at full service rental establishments.

Once seed has been spread at the rate per square foot recommended on the original label, it is best to lightly rake or scarify the surface to incorporate the seed, thus creating better soil contact and protecting the seed. Do not, however, bury the seed too deeply, never more than ¼”.

Another and probably most effective method is hydroseeding. The seed and a fibrous mulch are combined with water and are then sprayed on as a slurry. The advantage to this is that the seed is better protected, retains moisture better, increases the seed germination rate, and speeds germination and can help prevent erosion to some extent.

Mulches and Protection. If you decide to mulch over newly seeded areas there are several options. Straw thinly spread is the least expensive. We have seen situations, however, where straw mulch has had a great deal of weed seed. It is difficult to be certain that you have purchased clean straw, free from noxious weeds. Straw blankets are a second option and have netting on one side to help keep them intact. These can be used to mulch and hold seed in place on slopes of up to 3:1.

Wood fiber or curlex blankets and anti-wash geojute come in rolls and may be used on slopes of up to 1.5:1. Sod staples may be used to hold these in place.

In addition, there are now commercial “mulch” type substances that are sold strictly as grass seed covers. These can be found in local garden or nursery stores. For a small area this works quite well, however, can get expensive if you are seeding a large lawn. (See the previous discussion on hydroseeding as it relates to mulch.)

Fertilization. At the time of seeding a starter fertilization may be used to improve results. This will have phosphorous in it and not be exceedingly high in nitrogen. When discussing fertilizer its analysis is listed on the bag as percentages of NPK. Phosphorous is the P. In some states, fertilizer may no longer be used that contains phosphorous after the initial seeding unless a bona fide soil test indicates that it is needed. Check your local laws regarding fertilizer and their use. Phosphorous is the primary nutrient that turns lakes green with algae. Apply any fertilizer if used according to the label directions and store leftover in a safe, dry place.

Watering. For new seedings, they should be watered gently several times per day for 15 to 20 minutes. The soil should be moist, but not soggy. After the grass is fairly well established watering can occur less frequently, but thoroughly.

First Mowing. Once the new grass is 3” to 4” high it can be mowed to 2 ½” in height. Remember it is still tender so be careful about sharp turns with your mower that might uproot or rip out grass. Also, do not mow when the ground is exceedingly damp.

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