Bartending 101

Lesson 1: Spirits

Brandy, Eau-de vies, Liqueurs/Cordials

Brandies & Eau-de-vies:

This category is truly a bridge between Lessons 1 & 2. These are distilled alcohols, so are spirits by our definition, but, like wines, they start with fruit rather than grains or other plants. There are three general categories:

Grape brandies are distilled from wines, e.g. fermented grape juice. They are then aged.
Pomace brandies are made from the grape residue left over after the juice is extracted to make wine, e.g. grape pulp, skin and stems. They are not usually aged, taste considerably rawer than grape brandy, and are usually a lot cheaper.
Fruit brandies are any brandies distilled from fermented fruit other than grapes. If the resulting brandy is colorless, it is referred to as an Eau-de-Vie.

Brandies are made throughout the world; the most prominent regions are France, Spain, Italy, and the U.S. Here is a list of some of the most famous types. For reviews of good brandies, go to Tastings or the Internet Wines section on brandy.

Grape Brandies: The most famous grape brandy is cognac. Cognac must be made in the Cognac region of France, but it is blended from different vintages and growing zones in that region. The best cognacs are produced in the Grande Champagne (no relation to the sparkling wine) and Petite Champagne regions. They are always aged, but are differentiated by the age spent in the casks. Unlike wine, the aging period is not listed on the bottle’s label; instead the following terms have been adopted (and are used by most brandies made world-wide):

Three star cognacs must be aged at least 18 months.
V.S. (very superior) and V.S.P. (very superior pale) must, by law, be aged at least two years, but they’re usually aged 4-5 years.
V.S.O.P. (very superior old pale) is aged a minimum of 4 years, but usually 10-15 years.
X.O. (extra old) or Luxury is aged a minimum of 6 years, but usually 20 years.
Other terms are used by various houses to denote high premium, longer aged cognacs. Remy Martin, for example, uses both the Napoleon and Louis XIII labels (its oldest).

Less well known than cognac, but worth looking for is armagnac. Armagnac is a product of the Gascony region in SW France. While often blended, armagnacs can be of a single vintage (in which case it’s dated). Armagnac is also differentiated from cognac by a slightly different distilling process and aging technique. Some consumers find Armagnac to be rawer in taste than cognac; others find it more full-flavored and interesting.

Brandy de Jerez is a brandy made in the same region in Spain that produces sherry. Italy also makes grape brandies, but it is more famous for its grappa, (see below). Greece‘s Metaxa is a brandy that is flavored with anise and other spices – close to a liqueur. Other areas that produce interesting brandies are Israel, South Africa, Armenia, and the former Soviet territory of Georgia.

American brandies, which are lighter and fruitier than European, do not use the aging terms listed above, but rather use the actual age on the label. By law, they must be aged at least two years in oak. Most houses produce both moderate and premium styles.

Pomace Brandies: Grappa, from Italy, is the most famous pomace brandy. As it has become fashionable, it is sometimes aged to soften its raw qualities. French pomace brandy, Marc is usually consumed immediately and locally.

Fruit Brandies: A great deal of brandy is distilled from fruits other than grapes. Apples are a common source, producing Calvados in France and Applejack in the U.S. Applejack, in fact, was the first liquor distilled in the colonies. Laird’s Distillery in New Jersey is considered the oldest distillery in the U.S., and it produces 95% of all applejack sold. Try its new 12 year old apple brandy.

Apple brandy absorbs color from aging in oak casks. By contrast, fruit brandies aged in glass or pottery are colorless, and called in France "eau-de-vie" (water of life). Famous fruit brandies include those made from cherries (Kirsch, Kirshwasser), pears (Poire William), plums (Quetsch, Mirabelle), strawberries (Fraises), and raspberries (Framboise, Himbeergeist).

In Europe, major fruit brandy regions include Alsace in France, the Black Forest region of Germany, and Northern Switzerland. Eastern Europe is noted for its plum brandy called Slivovitz.

Unlike liqueurs (see below), these are not sweet, and often the underlying fruit flavor can be difficult to detect. These brandies, though, are lighter than cognacs and armagnacs and are often served in European restaurants as a refresher between courses.

Liqueurs/Cordials:

As the final spirit category in this lesson, liqueurs are appropriately a broad category. Liqueurs are drinks in which herbs or spices or other flavors like nuts, chocolate, or coffee have been infused in spirits. The base spirit can be finished spirits like brandy, rum or whisky, or, alternatively, neutral spirits. In the U.S., liqueurs are often referred to as cordials.

Liqueurs are often syrupy and sweet, and usually served as an after dinner drink. However, they can be dry (i.e. not sweet), low or high proof. One point of confusion can be the difference between Crème and Cream liqueurs. Crème liqueur has one dominant flavor (crème de menthe), while cream liqueurs have added dairy cream.

Some liqueurs are based on proprietary or closely guarded formulas, and are often centuries old. These often have monastical origins and are usually based on numerous ingredients. Bénédictine, for example, is flavored with more than twenty herbs and plants. It was first produced in 1510 in Normandy. Also invented in the Middle Ages is Chartreuse, created by Carthusian monks. It is purportedly blended from 130 different plants. I’m not sure whether the color “chartreuse” came from the liqueur or vice versa, but the liquid is bright green.

Other liqueurs are generic, i.e. can be made by any producer. One of the biggest categories is liqueurs that are anise or licorice flavored, e.g. anisette, absinthe, pastis, and ouzo – all of which are made by a variety of producers. There are proprietary anise liqueurs like Pernod or Sambuca. Traditionally, Sambuca is served with three whole coffee beans floating on the top. This is called “con mosche” or “with flies”, and is reputed to bring good luck.

The above liqueurs are based on neutral alcoholic bases. A liqueur that uses single malt whisky as its base is Drambuie from Scotland. Supposedly created from a recipe used by Bonnie Prince Charlie, the manufacturer adds heather honey, herbs, and spices to the whisky. A close relation from Ireland is Irish Mist, which is a blend of Irish whiskey, heather honey and herbs. Southern Comfort is a liqueur based on bourbon with peach and citrus flavorings. Grand Marnier is a liqueur combining orange with Cognac.

See Liqueurs for a list of the most common liqueurs and what their prominent flavor is. In Lesson 4, I give a recipe for a classic "pousse cafe" which is any drink where liqueurs are layered on each other. For information on how to execute a pousse cafe, including the gravity of liquers, look at That's the Spirit.

The Web has some very good sources if you’re interested in making a liqueur at home. Start with liquerweb which has numerous links to recipes for making liqueurs with such flavors as mint, ginger, allspice, vanilla, cinnamon, and lavender. As the site notes, however, most liqueurs are made just from the volatile oils or extracts of these spices and herbs, not from the plant part itself, which can contribute off flavors. To make homemade liqueurs, it is easiest to buy the underlying essences rather than use the herbs or spices. Here are two good sources: Brewhaus.com or Partyman.