Asian Vegetarian Cooking

Lesson 4: SOUTH INDIA

Food and Techniques

Most South Indian meals are vegetarian consisting of one, two or three dishes with seasonal vegetables, a dal (dried pea, bean, or lentil) dish, yogurt raitas, herbal chutneys, pickles, rice or freshly made unleavened flat breads to scoop up the foods. (It is considered good manners in India to eat with the right hand since the left is regarded as unclean.) Most people consume just one important meal a day, nibbling frequently on nuts, fruits, and small delicacies when hungry.

Dishes from the South are commonly flavored with coconut, mustard seed, and curry leaves (not the silvery ornamental ones commonly grown in Western gardens). Garlic and onions only became popular relatively recently. Reluctance to use them probably derives chiefly from their association with the Muslims. Less affected by the Muslims who invaded from the north and disdainful of the luxury associated with their foods, the South maintained older eating habits. Early Buddhist texts had prohibited the use of garlic and leeks because the foul smell deprived the eater of the company of others. Ancient Hindu works forbid the use of garlic and onions apparently because the strong flavors were considered dangerous.

Chilies, both fresh and dried, are an essential spice in Indian cooking. The seeds are the hottest part, so remove the seeds if you prefer a milder flavor. Always wash your hands after preparing chilies since the oil from them will sting if you touch your mouth, lips, or eyes.

A curry is basically a casserole of meat, poultry, or vegetables cooked with a combination of spices. You can buy a curry powder or copy Indian cooks and make your own. The recipe below can be varied according to your preferences.

CURRY POWDER
Makes 1/2 cup

• 2 tablespoons coriander
• 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
• 1 tablespoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 3 dried red chilies

1) Roast the spices in a small, heavy-bottomed pan over a medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring constantly until they become a shade darker than their original color. The spices will also give out a distinct aroma and the pan will emit light fumes of smoke.

2) Remove the spices from the pan and grind them to a fine powder in a spice or coffee grinder, (see bibliography for a web source). Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months.

Sambars are typically the first course in any South Indian meal. Many Asian grocery stores stock sambar powder or you can make your own. The following recipe is taken from Wendy Hobson's The Classic 1000 Indian Recipes.

SAMBAR POWDER
Makes 2 cups

• 1 tablespoon oil
• 2 cups dried red chiles
• 1 cup coriander (cilantro) seeds
• 1/4 cup cumin seeds
• 2 tablespoons fenugreek seeds
• 2 tablespoons black peppercorns
• 2 tablespoons mustard seeds
• 2 teaspoons yellow split peas
• 2 teaspoons red lentils
• 2 teaspoons poppy seeds
• 2 large cinnamon sticks, broken into pieces
• 2 teaspoons ground turmeric

1) Heat the oil and fry the chiles until darkened. Dry roast (heat in an unoiled pan) the other ingredients, except the turmeric, until lightly colored.

2) Grind all the ingredients to a fine powder. Add the turmeric. Store in an airtight container.

  1  2  3  4