Lesson 4: Rubs, Brines, Marinades & Classic Combos

This lesson will investigate using herbs while cooking – whether with dry or moist heat. We’ll discuss rubs, brines, and marinades. Then we’ll look at classic herbal combinations used around the world.

Rubs

Rubs are a combination of dry spices that are rubbed onto the surface of meat. Rubs are added just before cooking, so using them doesn’t appreciably add to prep time. A rub should be applied over the entire surface, in order to get flavor in each bite. Rubs are best used when the meat is not too thick so use them on thinner cuts of meat like chicken or fish fillets where the surface ratio to total volume is fairly high.

Commercially prepared rubs are becoming more and more available. I think every Food TV Chef now has some rub for sale – Emeril Lagasse and Bobby Flay come to mind. However, there is a major drawback to using a commercially prepared rub, i.e. they contain salt as a primary ingredient. I like to control the salt I use in cooking, both as to quantity and when to add it. Using prepared rubs eliminates these choices. A second problem with market rubs is the same as with all commercially bought spices – they may be aged and weak.

The best approach is to make your own rubs – the good news is you can make them ahead and store them in a labeled jar for up to three months. When making rubs, follow the guidelines in the previous lessons. Specifically, toast the spices first by putting them in a non-stick, dry sauté pan. Cook over medium heat, tossing or stirring, until you can smell them. Let them cool before grinding. Then put them into a coffee grinder – reserved for use only for spices – and grind them together for a true blend.

Using rubs is quite simple. I follow Alton Brown’s suggestions, (see the bibliography). First, salt your meat, then sprinkle on the rub. Now with your hands, truly rub the seasoning into the meat. The salt will bring moisture to the surface of the meat and help absorb the rub. After resting for a few minutes, repeat with another layer of rub. Brown recommends adding rub up to five times, though I think twice is sufficient.

The fun part of rubs, of course, is that you make them to satisfy your own personal taste. A couple of general comments on making combinations. If you’re using a rub on something you are going to sear over high heat, be careful with pepper and chiles. These burn easily and can become bitter. However, as the classic dish, “steak au poivre” or steak cooked in roughly ground pepper shows, sometimes this bitterness is the desired effect. In general, do cook with high heat when using rubs – it brings out their flavor. Also, you do not have to be really precise as to measurements. Most rub recipes are given in ratios, i.e. 2:1 and it’s perfectly acceptable to measure by eye.

Here are some rubs I’ve adapted to start with – see the bibliography for other sources.

Pork Rub, (adapted from The Pork Information Bureau)

• 2 parts paprika
• 1 part brown sugar
• 1 part sugar
• 1 part teaspoon chili powder
• 1 part ground cumin
• 1 part black pepper

Start with 1 part salt on the meat, and add to taste.

Fish & Chicken Rub (adapted from Alton Brown)

• ½ part toasted ground fennel seeds
• 1 part toasted ground coriander seeds
• ½ part toasted ground cumin seeds
• 1 part toasted ground celery seeds
• ½ part toasted ground peppercorns
• ½ part confectioner’s sugar
• ¼ part paprika
• ¼ part garlic powder
• 1 part ground dried onion flakes
• 1 part chile powder

Optional additions include file powder, cinnamon, and red pepper flakes.

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