Lesson 1: The Basics - Sit, Stand, Down, Come and Walk on a leash
I talked a little about using the lure/reward in the course introduction. Your first task will be to find something that your pup loves. You can alternate between treats and toys. Some exercises might work better if you play with the dog and a toy for a reward. Play can also release any tension if the dog has had a hard time understanding his lesson.
Your voice is going to play a big part in your success in dog training. Think of what the dog hears. He doesn’t understand the words, so he has to rely on the tone of voice and your actions to understand what you mean. If you raise your voice slightly, and sound happy and pet and play with your dog, he will soon learn the words “good dog, good boy/girl” or whatever you say. Make a fuss over him in the beginning, so he will learn the words quickly. On the other hand, you need to teach him “no” in a non-punitive manner. In obedience training, we need to use a word that means “no, that’s wrong. Try again.” It does NOT mean the dog is bad and is to be punished Keep the voice level, more like a sharp bark. (I suggest “Bad dog, shame on you,” in a deep growling voice for when the dog has been naughty.)
It’s also critical that you reward the dog while he is actually in the position you are asking for. If you wait until he does something other than what you asked for, he will not understand what it was that prompted the treat. Timing is very important and can be tricky to learn in the beginning. Don’t be discouraged if you miss the critical moment. You will get better as you work with the dog and you both learn to anticipate each other’s actions.
There are three basic positions that we want the dog to learn—sit, down and stand. All three are the basics for advanced training. We are NOT teaching the dog to stay in the position yet. One thing at a time. That will come later. Right now, we praise the dog instantly when he assumes the position we want.
Training Equipment
There is a variety of training collars, head halters and devices designed to help you train a dog. The basic flat collar is the one that young puppies wear first. It is the ONLY collar that should have tags attached to it and the only one that should be used if the dog is tied. It comes in buckle style, snap style and other combinations. The buckle is the most common and very secure. Some dogs can be trained with this collar, but they are the exception. When I mention a training collar, I will not be referring to this type of collar.
The choke collar is the one most people think of first when they think of training collars. A good choke collar should have smooth, strong links that slide easily and a large ring at each end. When you drop the chain part through one of the rings, it forms a sort of noose. And I do mean exactly that. Tying a dog out or leaving a choke collar on an unattended dog, is an invitation to disaster. Put the training collar on when you are training, and take it off when you are done. Do not leave this collar on the dog!
It is most important that the collar fit correctly. There should be only about one and one-half inch of slack in the collar. If it seems tight when you slide it over the dog's head, you might gently work one ear at a time through the collar.
If you hold up the collar so that the long end is to your left, you can almost see it form the letter "P"—p for puppy. Now, face your dog and slip the collar straight over his head. When he is at your left side, the long leg of the "P" will be on the top of his neck with the bottom of the letter toward you. Now when you give the collar a tug, it will release as soon as you give it some slack.
If you put it on upside down, like a "q", it will bind and not release properly.
The advantage to this collar is that if it is fitted correctly, the dog cannot slip out of it and escape. It is recommended especially for aggressive dogs where strong measures are called for.
The disadvantage is that the trainer needs to have good timing in order for the collar to be effective. The collar should be loose most of the time and only given a quick snap to get the dog’s attention. There are only a couple of instances when it is ever acceptable for the collar to stay tight for more than an instant and we will cover that in a later lesson. Some owners can’t seem to get the knack of keeping the collar loose and let the dog drag them around by the leash. The dog’s neck gets stronger and the handler can actually get hurt. Some quick, short snaps on the leash are impossible for the dog to pull against and much better for his neck and the handler’s arm.
The Prong Collar (or Pinch Collar) looks wicked, but, in fact, sometimes is much more humane than the choke collar. It cannot choke the dog and is limited in how tight it can get. It is designed for strong dogs who can physically overpower their handlers. The handler doesn't need to be so adept at giving corrections. The collar does most of the work. The same rule applies, however. Do not leave the collar on the dog when you are not with the dog.
The pinch collar should NEVER be put on or taken off by attempting to slide it over the dog's head. Practice opening one of the links near the middle of the collar and replacing it. (Avoid opening the collar by the end. It's too easy to get it twisted. This collar also should only have about an inch and a half of slack when you pull on the ring.
The only other device I would recommend for a beginner is the head halter. This device is sold by several different names, but is essentially a halter that fits over the dog's head instead of the neck. It works on the same principle as a horse halter, in that it is much easier to control an animal by the head than by the neck. These work very well for dogs that learn to accept them. Some dogs need a lot of conditioning to learn to wear one and some never accept it. The only warning I would give is to be careful not to snap the dog's head if he starts to run. Other than that, the head halter is a gentle device that is relatively easy to use.
I don't recommend Electronic Collars unless you are a professional or extremely experienced trainer. They are not only expensive, but difficult for the novice handler to use. Used correctly, with postive training methods rather than for punishment, they can be quite effective and no more harsh that the common choke collar. However, unless the trainer's timing is perfect, the collar will punish the dog at the wrong time and can completely destroy his confidence. The electronic collar is not a shortcut, in fact, it takes longer to train with it since the dog has to be trained first by conventional means.
Harnesses are designed for teaching a dog to pull. They are not designed for training.
Leashes
For close training, I recommend a cotton web leash, about 6 feet in length and with a bolt snap. You might want a long leash for distance training of about 40 or 50 feet or a retractable leash.
