Lesson 1: Grooming and Tacking up
Choosing a saddle
The best sort of saddle for a beginning rider is an all-purpose English saddle. They range in price from a couple hundred dollars to a couple thousand. Stay away from the very bottom end; the leather is hard and difficult to condition and the tree—the interior structure that gives the saddle its shape—may not be comfortable for your horse. (Indeed, once you’ve chosen a saddle that is comfortable for you, ask a saddle-fitter to check that it fits your horse, or ask a horsemanship instructor, even if the trip to your own farm costs you a little money. And, too, you may want to move up to a better saddle or to a close-contact saddle after you get serious about jumping. The very low-end saddles do not hold any resale value; some of the mid-range ones, particularly Collegiates, do.
Don’t buy a very expensive saddle right now, either. First, you will break it in to suit how you ride NOW, and that will change. Second, if you do ever want to resell it—and most riders do resell their first saddle—it will take longer to sell than a mid-range saddle.
With children, they grow and outgrow saddles; so again, a mid-range choice is best at this point.
Why an all-purpose saddle and not a close-contact, if both are hunt-seat saddles?
A close contact saddle has minimal knee rolls and a relatively flat seat. In short, the rider gets to feel the horse’s side with her leg more closely, but on the other hand, she must maintain a good leg position without help from the leather. And jumper riders do not sit in the saddle very long, spending a good part of the ride either in two-point (the jumping position, in which one’s derriere is not in contact with the saddle) or in a half-seat, galloping position, in which case the derriere only brushes the saddle lightly. A close-contact saddle is meant for as skilled, secure rider.
An all-purpose saddle has a deeper seat and bigger knee rolls, usually with suede on the front of the saddle flap to help keep the leg in proper position. This is actually helpful to beginners, especially as they begin to learn to jump. Later, they will be influencing their horse through application of their whole leg; as beginners, the point is to allow the well-trained horse to do most of the job while the rider gains experience and develops his feel and increases muscle knowledge of what needs to be done. The deeper seat helps with learning the canter. This saddle is also good for cross-country riding, which requires sitting deeper to cope with uneven ground. And it is usually deep enough to allow riders to at least begin some dressage work, an English discipline that requires a very deep seat.
When you sit in any English saddle, scoot your seat as far to the front as possible. Your pelvic area should just touch the pommel, the raised part in the front of the saddle. If the saddle fits, you should then be able to put your palm and four fingers between your derriere and the tip of the cantle, the raised part of the back of the saddle. If that’s not the case, look for a bigger or smaller saddle, depending, until it is the case.
Choosing a bridle and bit. You will be using a plain English bridle (snaffle bridle) and reins. Not a figure eight, not a dropped noseband, not a hackamore. Usually, the bridle is sold minus both the bit and the reins. They come in horse, cob and pony. Most pleasure horses will take the cob size; the horse size generally fits only very large Thoroughbreds, warmbloods, and draft horse crosses.
Look for good quality leather and buckles that will not rust. Again, you can pay $29 or $290. Stick to the midrange.
Buy reins that match the bridle in color, and buy laced reins rather than plain ones. The lacing will help with your grip at first. Do not buy rubber-covered jumping reins. They are wider than normal reins and will interfere with your developing a feel for the horse in your hands. Do not buy webbing reins, same reason, and if they are pulled through your fingers, it will hurt like mad!
