Lesson 1: Introduction
Glossary of terms
I will be using these terms frequently throughout this course, so please review them now.
Additives: Ingredients not needed for saponification usually added to the soap at trace.
Alkali: Any substance with a pH higher that 7. Lye is a strong alkali.
Anti-bacterial: Minimizes the growth of bacteria.
Anti-fungal: Minimizes the growth of fungus.
Anti-oxidant: Slows the oxidation of hydrocarbons and therefore helps slow deterioration. In soap, antioxidants help prevent rancidity. On the skin, anti-oxidants are said to reduce the signs of aging.
Aromatherapy: Use of essential oils to improve the health and balance of the mind, body and soul.
Astringents: Makes body tissue contract, and therefore tightens and closes pores in the skin. Can be drying.
Base Oil: Also called carrier or fixed oils. Non volatile (i.e. stable) fats liquid at room temperature.
Botanicals: Plant matter. Can be added to your soap at trace. Properties vary by botanical.
Cold-extraction: Method used to extract oils from plant material without heat. These oils are of the highest quality and are considered the most pure and natural oils to use in your soap.
Cold process soapmaking: Combining oils/fats and lye without adding temperature. Saponification takes place slowly, over several weeks. Glycerin, a natural by-product remains in the soap.
Curing: After the soap is poured, saponification continues. Curing is the time you allow for soap to fully saponify and become mild enough to use. Water is also released during this process and the soap bar contracts.
Detergents: Cleansers which use petroleum distillates in place of vegetable oils.
Emollients: Ingredients which soften and soothe the skin.
Essential fatty acid: Molecule which although vital to the body cannot be produced by the body and therefore must be obtained from outside sources.
Essential Oils: Pure oils derived directly from plant materials.
Eczema: Skin condition characterized by inflammation, redness and itching.
Exfoliate: To remove dead skin cells and reveal new, soft skin.
Fragrance oils: Synthetically derived scents.
Glycerin: A by-product of the cold-process method. Has emollient and humectant properties.
Handmilled method: Cold-process soaps are grated, melted with water, and repoured. Repoured soap is harder and shinier. Intricate and interesting molds can be used. Hot process soapmaking: Combining oil/fats with lye and using temperature to speed up saponification.
Humectant: Ingredient that pulls moisture towards the skin and helps skin retain moisture.
Melt and pour soap: Also called transparent soap. Made from a glycerin base, it can be easily melted and poured into molds.
Natural: Does not contain synthetic, or man made, ingredients.
Organic: Any substance which was once alive and has not been modified with synthetic substances.
pH: Degree of alkalinity (7 to 14) or acidity (1 to 7) of a substance.
Preservative: Substance that slows down deterioration of organic materials and prevents bacterial growth.
Rancidity: Decomposition of organic matter.
Saponification: Chemical process that occurs when oils/fats are combined with lye.
Sebum: Oil secreted naturally by our skin.
Unsaponifiables: Part of an oil that does not participate in saponification and thus is present in the finished bars.
