Soapmaking 101

Lesson 5: Soapmaking Instructions: Part One

Step Seven: Pouring the soap into the mold

Place your mold in the center of the blanket/ towel on an even surface. If your mold is unsteady because of its shape, prop it up so that it will not tip over when the soap is poured.

Pour the soap into the mold. Level the surface of the soap using your spoon. Place a layer of plastic wrap over the surface, pressing to ensure complete contact with the soap. This will prevent air contact and therefore the build up of soda ash on the surface of your soap.

Wrap your mold in the blanket or towel and place it in a warm, draft-free area of your house where it will not be disturbed. Remember, the soap mixture is still caustic so this should be out of the reach of children and where it cannot tip over.

Soap can catch a "chill" if not kept warm and saponification will be halted.

Lye is extremely caustic so the soapmaker should be wearing safety glasses, gloves and long sleeves. Young children and pets have no place around the lye process. When the time for adding water and lye, it is VITAL that cold water is used and that the lye is added to the water, not the other way around.

One should never mix anything in (like borax) directly into the lye water. It should be added after the lye is mixed into the fat (again not the other way around). There is a delicate chemical reaction that takes place between the lye and the fats.

Both the fat and the lye should be 100 degrees (+/- 5 ) before mixing them together. When cold water is added to lye, it heats up instantly (another chemical reaction) to around 225+ degrees. A cold water bath can help in the cooling process.

Never walk around with lye. Inside ventilation is sufficient (open a nearby window) and never use a glass container to mix lye. The instant heat caused by the reaction could crack the jar leaving the holder with caustic lye all over themselves. Use a sturdy pitcher with a lid labeled lye (like Tupperware). If you add any ssential oils, perfume (careful, flammable!) or coloring, it is best not to add them at this stage. The lye and high heat would evaporate most of the smell or colorant. The place for this is after it has cured(dried) for approximately 2 weeks. Don't touch the soap too soon, the lye is still present until fully dry. The process is called "milling" and the maker grates the soap with a cheese grater, then remelts it over low/medium heat with enough water to make it liquefy and then add the essential oils and coloring. Then let dry for another two weeks or until completely dry.

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