Soapmaking 101

Lesson 3: Ingredients

Additives

In soapmaking, we use the word additive to describe ingredients not needed for saponification which are usually added to the soap at trace. In this section, I will describe the most common soap additives and their properties. This is not an exhaustive list of soap additives, just something to get you started. Fresh fruit and vegetables are not listed because they drastically reduce the shelf life of soap. Use them if you like - many of them have wonderful properties - but your soap may only last only a few weeks to about a month.

Emolients

Honey: Excellent humectant and very soothing. Mild antiseptic so good for oily skin bars.

Glycerin: Your soaps already contain glycerin, but you can add more for a more emollient bar. Glycerin is a humectant and draws moisture to the skin.

Oatmeal: Emollient and a gentle exfoliator. Soothes and softens.

Essential Oils

(this is by no means an extensive list, just my most favorite for soapmaking)

Cedarwood: An astringent and antiseptic, use this is facial soaps for oily skin to help breakouts.

Eucalyptus: Used to treat cold and flu, soothe aching muscles, and refresh the mind and spirit.

Ginger: Said to restore energy and confidence. Use in a ‘wake up’ bar to start the day off right.

Grapefruit: Astringent properties make it good for facial bars. Use in body bars to treat cellulite.

Lavender: Fragrant and soothing, helps muscle ache, acne and insomnia.

Tea Tree: Excellent antiseptic and treats bacterial and fungal infections.

Note: Some essential oils are dangerous in large quantities and some are dangerous in any quantity to pregnant women, children and people prone to seizures. Always consult a trusted aromatherapy source before using essential oils in your soap. I have listed two of my favorite aromatherapy guides in the resources section as well as some web links for your convenience.

Herbs

Calendula: Healing and regenerative. Scent of honey. Can color soap golden. Use only the petals.

Chamomile: Gentle and restorative. Very mild, can be used with children. Mild astringent (good facial soap for oily skin). Grind well before adding to your soap.

Lavender: Wonderful soothing scent. Use whole or ground.

Rose: Use only the petals. Fragrant, soothing, emollient, restorative.

Peppermint: Refreshing and energizing. Often used in foot and leg treatments. A pumice peppermint foot bar makes a great gift!

Oils

Evening Primrose Oil: High in gamma-linolenic acid (an essential fatty acid), this oil helps skin defend itself against infection and inflammation. This oil is highly recommended for dry skin problems.

Vitamin E Oil: Very healing. Said to prevent wrinkles, prevent or reduce scaring and heal dry chapped skin. Use only 100% d-alpha tocopherol.

Others

Aloe vera: Heals mild sunburn and inflammation, so makes a soothing summer body bar. Restores the ph of the skin. Slight astringent, stimulates the growth of new cells. Good for use in facial bars for oily skin to gently remove oil.

Clay: Said to draw out impurities and oils from the skin. Tightens pores. Mild exfoliator. Use in facial bars for oily skin or in leg exfoliating bars for cellulite.

Coffee: Often used in hand soap. Absorbs odors from the skin. Make a kitchen bar for the chef in your life! Witch Hazel: Tightens pores. Use in facial bars.

Kelp: (Seaweed) Contains active vitamins and minerals to nourish the skin. Said to aid in cell regeneration.

Preservatives

Grapefruit seed extract: Strong anti-oxidant properties, antibacterial, anti-fungal and high in vitamin E. Most commonly used preservative in soapmaking. Very effective.

Honey: Inhibits bacterial growth.

Tea Tree essential oil: Inhibits fungus and bacteria.

Vitamin E Oil: High in antioxidants. Helps prevent rancidity.

Scrubs

Almond meal: Medium exfoliator. Can be used on the face, but not on blemished skin. Unclogs pores. Grind raw almonds well.

Cornmeal: Gentle exfoliator. Absorbs oils form the skin and unclogs pores. Good for blemish free oily skin.

Loofah: Strong exfoliator. Too harsh for the face and upper torso.

Oatmeal/ Oat bran: Emollient and gentle exfoliator. Unclogs pores and removes impurities. Cleans thoroughly yet gently.

Pumice: (volcanic rock). Must be finely ground. Harsh exfoliator, mainly used on feet.

Rice: More harsh exfoliant, although has emollient properties. Use in body bars. Grind well.

Other scrubs: flax seed meal, juniper berry meal, wheatgerm, poppy seeds, sugar, beach sand, and bran meal.

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