Lesson 3: Ingredients
This Lesson covers the essential ingredients of soapmaking: base oils, additives (herbs, essential oils, preservatives etc.) and colorants. I also cover finding and storing soapmaking ingredients. I do not devote a lesson section to lye, although it is obviously an essential ingredient. There is just not that much to say. We will be using 100% Sodium Hydroxide in granular form to make soap in this class. See the "Finding Soapmaking Ingredients" for how to locate this type of lye.
Base Oils
Base oils (also refered to as fixed oils or carrier oils) will be the main ingredients in your handmade soap. The purpose of this lesson section is to familiarize you with many of the oils you may wish to use in soapmaking. The type of oil you use will affect both the saponification and curing process and the look and feel of the final soap bar. Before purchasing expensive oils, you may wish to consider making your first batch of soap using oils found in your supermarket, such as olive oil (Castille Soap) and vegetable oil.
Almond oil (sweet): Excellent nutrient which softens and conditions the skin. Can help itchy, flaky, dry skin. Commonly used in massage, it is an excellent oil for soap. It saponifies easily and produces a very mild bar. Can make up a large percentage of your overall oils in a soap recipe.
Apricot Kernel Oil: While light in appearance, don’t be fooled, this is a very rich oil. Great for dry, sensitive skin or more mature skin. Use in facial soap bars.
Avocado Oil: Rich in vitamins A, B, D and E, this oil penetrates and helps dry skin heal. Said to heal skin conditions such as eczema and dry chapped skin. Avocado oil contains a high percentage of unsaponifiables, meaning more of the oil remains in the soap and does not react with the lye and saponify.
Castor Oil: Rich in fatty acids, this is the oil for dry skin. It acts as a humectant, attracting moisture to the skin, and can soothe inflamed skin. Cannot be used in high quantities in soap because it will produce too soft a bar. Use it to superfat soap for a very emollient bar.
Cocoa Butter: Emollient and skin softening. Used to superfat soap or for an extra moisturizing bar. Use in small quantities.
Coconut Oil: One of the must haves for soapmaking. Produces a hard bar with a creamy lather. Used alone, it can dry the skin.
Jojoba Oil: A highly penetrating oil, Jojoba oil is remarkable because it most closely resembles the oil emitted by our own skin (sebum). Use it to restore moisture to the face or body. It is anti-oxidant and resists rancidity and therefore can extend the shelf life of your soap.
Mango Butter: Emollient and protective for the skin. Can restore elasticity to the skin and help dry, aging skin.
Olive Oil: Good on food, good on your skin! Olive oil can heal inflamed skin and moisturizes without clogging pores. Can be used in a high percentage in soapmaking or as 100% (Castile soap). Purchase grade B rather than virgin olive oil if possible.
Palm Oil: Palm oil may not do much for the skin but it is invaluable for soapmaking . It makes a hard bar and saponifies very easily. Never use it on its own as the resulting soap will be too harsh.
Palm Kernel Oil: Produces a hard bar that lathers easily. Can be drying, so should not account for more that 15% of the total oil in your soap.
Shea Butter: Healing to dry or aging skin. High in unsaponifiables like avocado oil, it makes an exceptionally moisturizing bar of soap.
Vegetable Oil: Produces a gentle, mild bar. Should not be used alone as the resulting bar will be too soft. A longer curing time may be necessary as these bars will take longer to dry.
Vegetable Shortening: Should never be used alone, but combined with other oils it makes a mild, soft lather for a good price.
Wheatgerm Oil: Rich in vitamins A, D and importantly, E. It is very nourishing to the skin and prevents moisture loss from the skin. It is soothing to irritated skin and great for facial bars.
The oils listed above are the more common oils used in soapmaking. A variety of other more exotic oils and butters are available for use in soapmaking or to superfat your soap. With the internet, they are now easily available online and experimenting with these oils can be a very rewarding process.
