Lesson 6: Painting on Glass -Supplies
Air Dried Glass Paints
There are several paints and stains that are formulated especially for glass. Some of them become fairly permanent if they are allowed to air dry for a long time - up to 10 days - before being washed. Of these, the most durable is probably Delta's PermEnamel. The paint comes with a surface conditioner which is applied to the glass surface before painting, and a clear sealer that goes on it after the paint has dried. With this level of protection, the painted surface will stand up to some scrubbing and washing - at least by hand. I used this on my bathtub - another non-porous surface (but on the exterior, which doesn't get scrubbed the way the interior does) and it has held up for some time now - so has the splash that I accidentally dribbled into the sink, and that has been scrubbed. Delta claims that it is dishwasher safe when properly sealed. Even so I would not recommend using it on the top surface of a plate or serving dish that will be scraped with knife and fork repeatedly.
The paint comes both in a jar for direct brush application and in small tubes that are meant to create a slightly raised outline effect. The outliner is more opaque than the jar paint and so can be used in small areas where real opacity is desired. Just brush carefully with a natural bristle brush.
Delta also makes a line of Glass Paints that come in a small tube with a thin tip which is used for applying the paint. This also uses the surface conditioner to help it adhere to the glass, and is also claimed to be dishwasher, microwave and oven safe without heat setting. The color selection, however, is far more limited than PermEnamel, and the paints are transparent rather than opaque.
To thin either of these type paints, use Delta's paint thinner. Do not use water.
You can find Delta's guide to techniques for using their paint, as well as many projects, on their site.
Air cured paints of any type are probably best used on the underside of glass plates, which means you must master a process called reverse painting. In fact, since these paints may not be food safe it is best to restrict their use to the edges of plates and the exteriors of all other pieces. However, for the exteriors of bowls, vases, etc. they are quite durable.
Slightly less durable are other air cured paints that do not have protective sealants.
Many of these paints are opaque, which may be a blessing when you are just beginning to paint on glass. The glass itself is transparent, so more light shows through your painting, and brush strokes may be more obvious. But at least you can layer and shade paints much the way you have done in other forms of stenciling.
However, many glass paints, including the new line by Delta are transparent - and this opens up a whole new array of options for the painter. Suddenly blue isn't highlighted with yellow paint - it simply turns green. It is more like painting with light than with pigment and can be a bit tricky until you are accustomed to it. But transparent paint does take advantage of the special nature of glass - which is to be transparent.
Many companies sell their paints in two forms - one in a jar to be brush applied, and the other in a squeezable tube. The tube has a nozzle tip that can be used to apply the paint as an outline, or, in some cases, is meant to be the applicator for the paint without requiring a brush.
Other Air-Dry Paints
- Vitrail In Europe you can still buy Vitrail, a glass paint made by Pebeo that is air drying and as permanent as the Delta PermEnamel. However, it is solvent based, and is no longer sold in the US, except at Sunshine Discount Crafts. They are very transparent, but the colors are very vivid and the paint is more durable than that of most air dried paints. They cannot be thinned with water but need to use the duluting medium in the product line.
However, I must say I have yet to find an easier paint to work with. I sponged this onto a small glass bottle and it went on so smoothly that you would have sworn the color was in the glass. No other paint that I have tried went on that smoothly, even with my best, made-for-glass-painting-smoothness, brushes. So for some projects that are not going to be used for food and will not need a dishwasher, these are worth the additional hassle that clean-up involves.
Solvent-based paint, by the way, requires mineral spirits or other solvents for clean up. Most of the paints I will discuss clean up with plain soap and water - at least until they are cured.
- Gallery Glass
is another form of glass paint, which is marketed as a medium for recreating the look of stained glass. It is completely transparent, and good if you want to make sun catchers and other ornamental pieces, but does tend to peel up in water. Do not thin this paint with water or it will weaken the paint. - Color Magic paints are transparent, air dried and allegedly cure overnight. They come in both transparent and "opal" forms, the opal being a bit more opaque. They are called glass "stains" rather than glass paint. A protective sealant is recommended. There are also several media - iridescent, frost and glitter, to add interest to the paint finish. Objects painted with these paints cannot be cleaned with soap and water but instead require a wipe with vinegar and water if in need of cleaning. If you get any on your hands, remove with denatured alcohol.
They come in bottles that resemble nail polish bottles, with a built-in brush. But they can also be applied with a sponge, air brush or eye-dropper. They are quite thin in substance, but are recommended if you want to add color to a piece that has already been etched or sandblasted. For air dried paint they seem a bit pricey.
- Tri-Chem makes a line of glass paints called Jewel-Lites, that come in tubes. They are meant to be applied directly from the tip of the tube, and are quite thin. This means that you must use an outliner or some other method of "damming" off each separate area of color, or they will flow together, making definition impossible. They are also very transparent, and may require several coats before you achieve the depth of color you desire. But they dry fairly quickly; recoating is possible in half an hour or less.
To dam the paint they recommend a partner product called a WonderLiner that comes in bronze, copper or silver. This is also a large tube, for which you can buy extra tips. The size hole in the tip will determine the thickness of your outline.
Tri-Chem's site offers a couple of projects with instructions that can help you to become accustomed to using this type of paint.
- Krylon makes a spray paint that is good for faking an etched or frosted glass look in a hurry. They also carry colored glass spray. To cover a fairly large surface in a hurry this may be your best option, as spray goes on more smoothly than does brushing. And brush marks can be very obvious in glass paint if you aren't careful.
