Stenciling 101

Lesson 4: Stenciling Situations

Stenciling Accessories

You can really unify the look of any room with stencils. For instance, once you have added a border or stenciled motif on the walls or floors, you can then take an element from it and stencil it onto the curtains, or create an acid-etched look on glass – or even add the motif to your porcelain fixtures. The paints you use will be slightly different from those we've already discussed, but the principle is much the same. And don't forget the furniture, or little wooden boxes and such that can easily be transformed from trash to treasure with a stencil and some paint.

Bathroom
In my bathroom I stenciled an Craftsman style border that I was absolutely in love with over a faux tortoisehell finished wall. I would have done the entire house in it if I hadn't already done so much of it in other borders or murals. But I didn't have that many places left to use it, so I wanted this design to really stand out in the places where I could. So I looked around for something that would truly catch the eye - and my eyes fell on the bathtub.

I wouldn't stencil the inside of a tub, or sink, or anything that will be subjected to heavy duty scrubbing. But the outside of the tub, or the exterior area of a sink or toilet doesn't get that degree of wear and tear. Permanent air-drying ceramic paint will adhere beautifully to these surfaces and allow you to create truly customized appurtenances in the powder room. Delta Perma-Ceram is the one I used. Clean the surface with vinegar to remove any unwanted residue, then apply a primer coat to the surface, and then go ahead and stencil. I used stencil adhesive to hold the stencil firm to the tub because porcelain is slick and I didn't want to run any risk of bleeding. I also have each overlay about 20 minutes of drying time so as not to run the risk of smearing. Then apply a sealer. Clean it with a non-abrasive cleaner and it will last practically forever!

Glass
You can use the same technique on glass – or replicate the same design but using a stippling brush motion and translucent white glass paint to create an etched effect. Or, cut the design from clear contact paper and use Armour-Etch (available at most crafts stores) to actually etch the design into the glass permanently. The contact paper works better than a regular stencil here because it adheres completely to the glass and so prevents leakage or furry edges. Use a spatula to apply the acid because you want it to go on smoothly without brush marks. It takes only a few minutes for the actual etching to take place. Then rinse thoroughly. This design used the contact paper and acid approach - but with a brush rather than a spatula. If you look closely you can see the unevenness of the result.

Try this on windows, glass doors or even the bathroom drinking glass and they will coordinate beautifully with your painted wall and/or floor stencils. If you want to be able to change your design in the future, go with the paint, as it can be removed (somewhat laboriously) with a razor blade – although you won't be able to chip it off with a fingernail. (I tried, when I accidentally overlooked a small drop of paint in my sink!) Apply paint with a make-up sponge or stencil roller rather than a brush, as you want as smooth an effect with the paint as you would with permanent etching.

You can add fine lines and detailing with a neutral frosted felt tip pen. Pebeo makes one that is almost indistinguishable from real etching as well as a line of paints formulated especially for glass.

Fabric
Finally, you can complete the décor of your room by stenciling the curtains, throw pillows or even the upholstery to match. For this, your best choice is a paint especially made for fabric, because it is easier to work with than regular stencil paint and literally seems to become a part of the fabric so that it can take repeated washings without fading. It sinks into the fabric so it won't crack as other types of paint are wont to do. If you can't find the color you need in fabric paint then check the shelves for a special additive that you can mix with your acrylics to make them more suitable for cloth. These paints have a slower drying time than do regular acrylics, and so blending and shading is much easier.

The easiest way to stencil fabric so that you end up with sharp clean edges is to make a sort of sandwich of the surface on which you are painting, the fabric itself, and the stencil. You can use a large piece of heavy cardboard or a board because you won't want to spray your kitchen table with spray adhesive – which is the best way to ensure that the fabric won't move or bunch up. Spray the surface and wait 15 minutes. Spray the back of your stencil as well. Then position your fabric between the painting surface and the stencil and go to it.

Read the directions on the fabric paint. Most need to be heat set to become permanent, which usually means putting a pressing cloth over the stenciled area then going over it with a hot iron. But once the paint is set, you can wash or clean fearlessly.

And there you have it – a completely coordinated room in the colors, style and designs of your choice. And who would have believed that things that look so good could actually be so simple?

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