SRW Tip#5: Fertilizing Roses for Spring Flush

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  1. Mark_Whitelaw
  2. Carol Wallace
  3. Mark_Whitelaw
  4. Mark_Whitelaw
  5. Mark_Whitelaw
  6. Mark_Whitelaw
  7. Mark_Whitelaw
  8. Mark_Whitelaw
  9. MarlynnM
  10. Mark_Whitelaw

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Top 8.   Feb 10, 1998 11:53 AM

» Mark_Whitelaw - William, The root stimulator is usually sold as a liquid supp

William,

The root stimulator is usually sold as a liquid supplement which is mixed with water and poured around the rose's watering well after it has been installed. Be sure to water-in the rose very well before applying it, however. Otherwise, you'll burn the roots of the new rose. And as always, read and follow label directions explicitly.

Root stimulator is available at any nursery, home improvement center or mailorder. Just ask your certified nursery professional for it.

MarkW>Ft. Worth, TX/Zn 7b, Rose Garden

-- posted by Mark_Whitelaw



Top 9.   Feb 10, 1998 12:00 PM

» Carol Wallace - Mark, Would this be something like SuperThrive? I know one ros

Mark, Would this be something like SuperThrive? I know one rose catalog I get swears by it, and instructs all customers to first soak their bare root roses in a pail with some SuperThrive added, and then to use it as a supplement. They claim it stimulates root growth, but I'm not sure it's technically classified as a root stimulator. Carol virtually gardening

-- posted by Carol Wallace



Top 10.   Feb 10, 1998 12:33 PM

» Mark_Whitelaw - Carol, SuperThrive™ is a brandname for a product technically

Carol,

SuperThrive™ is a brandname for a product technically specified as a planting supplement. I use it extensively when soaking cuttings and re-hydrating bare-root roses.

It can also be used as a root stimulator (according to the label), but the latter is usually composed of emulsified or chelated phosphorus compounds. Many, however, also contain a synthetic form of Vitamin B1 like SuperThrive™, and thus stimulate strong root growth.

On commercial projects (and most of my personal ones, as well), I frequently use a combination of 'Pecan Shell Tea' and SuperThrive™ as a root stimulator. 'Compost Tea' can also be used. But there are several manufacturers of root stimulators, and most any nursery will carry them.

I don't know if that answered your question, but it sounded good, anyway. :>)

MarkW>Ft. Worth, TX/Zn 7b, Rose Garden

-- posted by Mark_Whitelaw



Top 11.   Feb 11, 1998 4:35 AM

» Mark_Whitelaw - [Posted for Joseph Egan] Hey Mark, I passed the dried blood,

[Posted for Joseph Egan]

Hey Mark, I passed the dried blood, bone meal, etc receipe you gave me on to my friend and he was really wowed, but immediately asked "where do i get this stuff"?.

We are in Mobile, Alabama and i'm sure it's around here but where can the ingredients be purchased to mix 18-18-18 or 20-20-20 of dried blood, bone meal and ---? The homebuilder stores only have prepackaged and premeasured wares?

Thanks again for any time you can give me.

Please reply to:

J.W.

jandjw@yahoo.com

-- posted by Mark_Whitelaw



Top 12.   Feb 11, 1998 5:49 AM

» Mark_Whitelaw - Hi Joseph! Welcome back! Those supplements mentioned in my re

Hi Joseph! Welcome back!

Those supplements mentioned in my response are commonly available at quality nurseries and farm/ranch and feed stores throughout the country. They are also available mailorder and even on the internet.

Try to support your local merchants, if you can.

Failing that, your friend can also visit Foreman's Online Mall, one of my website sponsors. Foreman's is a specialized "general store" (in the old tradition) that has a very large organics and soil supplement section. You can either order from the internet or with a toll free phone number.

One last important note: After reviewing my original response to you and your friend, I failed to mention some of the synthetic or processed supplements high in potash.

These include Potassium Chloride (Muriate of Potash), Potassium Sulphate, and Postassium Nitrate -- all of which will also be available from the various sources I mentioned above.

These chemicals are high in potash, commonly 0-0-40 or 0-0-50 in N-P-K ratio. If used by your friend, the mixture would be 2 parts blood meal, 2 parts bone meal, and 1 part any of the above to achieve an approximate 20-20-20 fertilizer.

A word of caution, however. These chemical sources of potash are commonly very high in their respective salt index. Potassium Nitrate, for example, has a salt index of 74 per 100 lbs. of material. Muriate of Potash has a salt index of 115; Sulfate of potash, 48.

Although roses can tolerate a modicum of these salts, poorly drained soils (and container-grown roses) will accumulate these salts, and eventually cause damage to the plant.

Therefore, if the "chemical solution" to your potassium requirement is selected, use the above materials very sparingly.

Good luck! And I hope you enjoy the rest of the workshop.

MarkW>Ft. Worth, TX/Zn 7b, Rose Garden

-- posted by Mark_Whitelaw



Top 13.   Feb 14, 1998 2:57 PM

» Mark_Whitelaw - [Posted for Joy in So. Carolina] Mark, Enjoyed reading you

[Posted for Joy in So. Carolina]

Mark,

Enjoyed reading your tonic recipe for the Spring and Fall.  My soil pH is 5.7

How would you recommend me changing your tonic to suit my soil?

Thank you.

Joy in SCarolina

-- posted by Mark_Whitelaw



Top 14.   Feb 14, 1998 5:46 PM

» Mark_Whitelaw - Joy, Adjusting acid soils is a continuing problem for many fo

Joy,

Adjusting acid soils is a continuing problem for many folks around the world - even more so for those folks (like myself) who use organic materials extensively.

Your soil, however, is excessively acid... suitable for such plants as azaleas and rhododendrons, but too acid for good rose horitculture.

When soils reach 5.5 in pH (just 0.2 points below yours), three of the eight vital nutrients roses require become insoluble precipitates (or "lock up") and cannot be used by the plant. These are nitrogen, calcium and magnesium.

The first action I would suggest is an application of ground limestone - preferrably, dolomitic limestone because it also contains magnesium, and thereby adds a much needed nutrient to your soil. The application rate should be about 3 lbs./100 sq. ft. if your soil is sandy; 6 lbs./100 sq.ft. if your soil is loam; or 8 lbs./100 sq.ft. if your soil is clay. This will slowly bring your soil pH back up about 1 unit or to about 6.7.

Work this material in and around your garden, using caution not to harm roots.

BTW, do not expect instant results. This would have been better done last fall, and it may take a year before you notice the changes.

I do not recommend using lime! First, lime and acid soil, when mixed with water, will result in an abundance of aluminum hydroxide, a substance not desired in the soil. Second, if your soil is clay-based, lime acts as a soil stabilizer/compacter and will make your soil even less friable.

If you choose to use lime instead of dolomitic limestone, however, do not till it into the soil. The lime should be spread across the surface of the soil and allowed to leach into it. Furthermore, re-liming will be required every 4th or so.

Now to your question:

The Spring & Fall Tonic recipe should be adjusted to compensate for those nutrients which have been "locked up."

Because your pH is 5.7, nitrogen is still available, albeit barely available. No changes are needed in the nitrogen components.

You have already added calcium to the soil with the limestone, but you might also want to add some ground oyster shell to the mixture. This product is available at most feed stores as a chicken or bird food supplement. Not much is needed. About 1 cup per plant is sufficient.

If you use dolomitic limestone, some magnesium will be added to the soil. But it will be insufficient to help you much in the short run. Magnesium deficiency will manifest on the leaves as a chlorotic condition, very similar in appearance to iron chlorosis (eg., light green leaves with dark veins or leaf ribs). It will usually be confined to the lower part of the shrub, however, vis-a-vis appearing throughout the shrub as with iron chlorosis.

In this case, I would suggest adding extra magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts) to the blend. Then, during the season, add magnesium sulfate to a foliar feed of fish emulsion and kelp, spraying monthly. About 1 Tbsp. magnesium sulfate/gallon of water is sufficient for this foliar feed. (BTW, if your roses have waxy leaves like many of those on modern roses, you can make your foliar feeding more effective by spraying on the undersides of the leaves.)

I hope that helps a little. Sounds to me like you've got your work cut out for you this spring. ;>)

MarkW>Ft. Worth, TX/Zn 7b, Rose Garden

-- posted by Mark_Whitelaw



Top 15.   Feb 16, 1998 6:44 AM

» Mark_Whitelaw - [Posted for Joy] Mark, Thanks for the answer to my questio

[Posted for Joy]

Mark,

Thanks for the answer to my question.  I work almost year round trying to keep those rose beds in top nutrient shape.  My soil is a sandy loam.

Thanks again.

JOY

-- posted by Mark_Whitelaw



Top 16.   Mar 1, 1998 7:11 AM

» MarlynnM - Marlynn Marcks Aren't you afraid to use bonemeal and possibly

Marlynn Marcks
Aren't you afraid to use bonemeal and possibly blood meal in light of the mad cow disease problem in the U.K. I read that of the 11 cases of the disease there, 4 were contracted through the use of bone meal in the garden. I believe the source of this info was National Gardening.

-- posted by MarlynnM



Top 17.   Mar 1, 1998 6:39 PM

» Mark_Whitelaw - Hi Marlynn! Welcome to Suite101! No. I'm not afraid of Bovin

Hi Marlynn! Welcome to Suite101!

No. I'm not afraid of Bovine Spongiform
Encephalopathy ("Mad Cow Disease"). Bone meal manufactured in the U.S. is made from American cattle. The feeding and processing of our cattle is much different than in the U.K. (This was the "thrust" behind the most recent trial in Amarillo, Texas, which I'm sure you have read about.)

Lynn Iverson, Extension Agent for the South Dakota State University, writes,

"I received from our Extension Veterinarian at South Dakota State University the following:

'Meat and Bone meal and other rendered products derived from ruminants are not permitted to be imported into the US. It is also important to
recognize that the primary risk factor for BSE (Mad Cow Disease) in the United Kindom is not present in the same degree in the US. The US
rendering industry never adopted the change in rendering process associated with BSE in the UK. Additionally meat and bone meal comprises only an extremely small proportion of supplemental protein fed to US cattle, compared to UK cattle. This decreases the chance of
passing on any disease to animals.

'In addition there have never been any cases of BSE in the US. Cases have occurred in Canada but were in cattle imported from the United
Kingdom, no native cattle have been affected. Therefore any food safety risks associated with BSE do not exist in the US cattle.'

"This information comes from a aritcle entitled Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (Mad Cow Disease). It was written by Bill Epperson, DVM, MS from South Dakota State University."

Although some of our European visitors here at Suite101 may wish to modify their version of my 'tonic' by adding a different ingredient, I'm not concerned for our gardening friends here in the the North American continent or in the Southern Hemisphere.

MarkW>Ft. Worth, TX/Zn 7b, Rose Garden

-- posted by Mark_Whitelaw



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