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Starting a new lawn from seeds


  1. RoyC
  2. anniel
  3. lindabeck
  4. anniel
  5. Slick

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Top 1.   Oct 8, 2000 11:02 AM

» RoyC - Looking for some help

Hello,
I posted this question in one of the garden sections and they suggested I come here.

This summer I started a new lawn here in Southern California and have had nothing but trouble. I spent a lot of money to get what I already had weeds and dirt.

I have lots of notes and some pictures if anyone can help please write here or send some email to me at amcenet@mminternet.com.
Thanks
Roy

-- posted by RoyC



Top 2.   Jan 13, 2001 2:17 PM

» anniel - Re: Looking for some help

Now that I'm back online, I can address this problem.
I need lots more information before I can determine what your lawn's problem is. One thing though...did you start with a soil test. If your soil is lacking in nutrients or if pH levels are extreme, this will cause failure. But there are many other factors involved too. What kind of lawn did you plant?

-- posted by anniel



Top 3.   Mar 10, 2001 3:49 PM

» lindabeck - I had the same problem...

I moved into a new (new to me) house last year, and attempted to put grass seed down. I don't have much sun (the neighbors have walnut trees) so I used a "Shade" blend. The grass grew well for about 2 months, then pretty much died off. I'm back to spotty places (mostly where I put topsoil down to fill in holes) of brownish grass, and lots of dirt and moss growing.

I'm going to try again this year, and I'm thinking of bringing in some topsoil to start off with. Am I doomed to fail again?

-Linda

-- posted by lindabeck



Top 4.   Apr 10, 2001 5:38 PM

» anniel - Re: I had the same problem...

In response to message posted by lindabeck:

To properly get grass to grow, you have to try to correct any of the environmental factors which could cause it to fail. Things like shade, compacted soil, improper pH, poor fertility, all will make starting and keeping a lawn difficult. Shade tolerant grasses will grow fairly well in the shade of trees, but if the grass is under the drip line of the trees, then there will be additional problems. The tree roots will always be competing with the grass for water and nutrients, and when drought strikes, the trees always win.
You must prepare the soil well too or the seedlings will not catch. Its good to cultivate the soil down to about 6 inches if practical. Then add some screened topsoil. Also, get the soil tested and correct the pH if necessary. Since you mentioned moss growing, its reasonable to assume your soil is acid. Contact your local garden center for lime recommendations or your county extension office. Remember, the best time to start a lawn(cool season grasses) is fall, and warm season grasses; spring.
After your soil is prepared, add a starter fertilizer and,sow your seed. Mulch with something like straw, burlap, or composted newspaper pellets. Keep the soil moist, but not wet, then wait. After the grass germinates (7 to 21 days) gently remove the mulch. Cut the grass when it reaches about 3 inches, but only cut off 1 inch of growth. Do not apply any weed killers until your grass has been mowed at least 3 times.
During dry weather, make sure you water the lawn well, but not real often, about once a week or so in the absence of rain....but you will have to make a judgement call here because how often to water is dependent on things like humidity too.

-- posted by anniel



Top 5.   Jun 7, 2001 7:01 PM

» Slick - Hi Annie :)

I hope you can help me with my clover problem. While it's not a new lawn, is there any sure fire way to handle this stubborn problem ...short of round-up and re-seeding?

Thanks in advance...Slick

-- posted by Slick



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