The Vining Life

Top 2. May 3, 1999 11:19 AM

» Carol Wallace - Clematis

Julie, do you really have problems with clematis down there? I just had a question from a gardener is Los Angeles wondering if she could grow clematis - and being a zone 5-6 gardener all my life, I really don't know!

-- posted by Carol Wallace

Top 3. May 5, 1999 10:55 AM

» jfinn - Clematis

Carol,
I don't know the answer to your question; my gut reaction is that the hybrids would not thrive here particularly in the southern part of the peninsula due to the lack of cold winter temperatures.
Dr. Richard Wunderlin, in his Guide to the Vascular Plants of Flordia, lists seven endemic species: C. baldwinii, found frequently, C. catesbyana (syn. C. micrantha), occasional; C. crispa, aka swamp leather-flower, frequent; C. glaucophylla, with bright magenta flowers, found rarely; C. reticulata, aka netleaf-flower, frequent; C. virginiana aka virginsbower, occasional; and C.ternifolia (syn. C. paniculata) aka Sweet Autumn Clematis, is listed as an escape from cultivation.
You may want to ask Dave Skinner- he's in Tallahassee, Zone 8, whereas I'm in Zone 10. I imagine that folks in the Panhandle have the best chance at success with this genus, and then only with the smaller-flowered species. Flordia's intense sun fades most of the larger, purple-colored varieties.
On another note, I have never seen any Clematis, species or otherwise, offered for sale by any nurseries from Orlando south to Miami - perhaps for this reason!

-- posted by jfinn

Top 4. May 6, 1999 12:14 PM

» Carol Wallace - Thanks, Julie

Interesting about the deep colors fading in the sun, because recommendations for northern gardens runs exactly opposite - deep colors for sunny situations (along with white) and paler pinks and lavenders in slightly shady situations.

And I might have known Sweet Autumn clematis could grow almost anywhere!

-- posted by Carol Wallace

Top 5. Jun 11, 1999 7:58 PM

» Sharon_Sanderson - Nine months ago my husband and I took over managing a small, vic

Nine months ago my husband and I took over managing a small, victorian apartment complex in DeLand, FL. 40 apartments in a horseshoe configuration dropped inside 2.5 acres of some of the tallest trees I have seen anywhere. Unfortunately when we got here everything was enveloped with vines...those horribly invasive potatoe vines. I don't know the botanical name but they will eat everything in site, well at least cover it all up. The place looked like the amazon. I went into a landscape mode. No more long fingernails and lots of callouses and 30 less lbs later the vines are under control but what surprises. We found 20 foot magnolia trees that no one even knew where there. We looked up and canopies of 50 foot magnolias and live oaks were engulfed

For months my running around on the tractor with the cart and dozens of vine wreaths hanging on it was a site to behold.

After all those months of pulling one type of vine I planted my veggie garden and built a little bentwood trellis and what do I plant...a vine. The moonflower vine. I planted three from seed and the one at the trellis has gone gangbusters (lots of sun) and has covered the trellis and is over 5 feet tall (5 weeks). The other two do not get as much sun and they are still only a few inches tall. The difference that sun makes.

Is there a fast growing vine that can grow well in partial shade? I have two trellis now on either side of one of our door entrances (a beautiful, imported english door full of stained glass). This vine will flank either side.

Thanks much and welcome to Florida. I have been here a long time and don't know half of what you know. Sheesh Carol doesn't even live here and far exceeds me in knowledge. But I am learning.

-- posted by Sharon_Sanderson

Top 6. Jun 18, 1999 9:58 AM

» jfinn - Fast growing vines for part shade

Dear Sharon,

Anyone who does battle with the potato vine, Dioscorea bulbifera, has my utmost respect and sympathy.

It will come as no surprise to you that this invader tops the Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council's list as the state's most destructive
vine. It even beat out Kudzu!

Did you know that it was deliberately introduced in the early 1900's as a possible food crop? It has since escaped cultivation, spreading by aerial, potato-like tubers located in the leaf axils. See http://aquat1.ifas.ufl.edu/diobul14.jpg

What most folks don't realize is that simply pulling it out by the roots won't work. No, indeed; this beast grows from underground tubers, some weighing over three pounds.
See http://aquat1.ifas.ufl.edu/diobul11.jpg

Leaving even a small piece of the tuber intact enables the vine to resprout. Because it is herbaceous (as opposed to woody) the entire vine dies to the ground in winter, lulling the unwary gardener into believing he has won the battle.

This is one plant that you don't want to add to the compost pile! Another species, D. alata, also afflicts central Florida. It is differentiated from bulbifera by its "winged" stems. Unfortunately, it too possesses the dreaded aerial tubers.

On a more pleasant note, several vines come to mind as candidates for your trellis. How about Sweet Autumn Clematis? Taxonomists can't make up their minds on this one- you may find it in a nursery listed as Clematis paniculata, Clematis terniflora, or even Clematis maximowicziana. This twining Japanese native, rated for Zones 5 to 9, can climb to 30' in one season, but it is well-behaved and easy to control. It prefers a slightly alkaline soil that has been enriched with organic matter. Keep the roots shaded by mulching. In autumn hundreds of fragrant, small star-shaped flowers will completely cover the vine. Later these turn into fluffy clusters of silvery seeds; they remind me of Albert Einstein's hair. Since flowers are produced only on new wood, there's really no reason to keep last year's stems. To keep this vine under control, you can simply prune all growth back to a height of 15 inches, (just
above a pair of buds) in early March. Doing this will force new, healthier growth from the base, resulting in a stockier, more floriferous plant.

Another possibility is Confederate Jasmine, Trachelospermum jasminoides. This handsome evergreen twiner produces clusters of fragrant white pinwheel flowers March through June. It will flower in sun or shade and remains attractive throughout the season. Relatively pest-free and easy to grow in most soils, this plant remains unmatched as a vine to train around an entry.

Finally, consider the Silver Lace Vine, Polygonum aubertii, recommended for Zones 4 thru 9. This fast-growing twiner has been known to grow ten to
twenty feet the first year it is planted. Beginning in late spring and continuing through fall, panicles of white flowers, resembling lace, smother the plant. Although it prefers sandy well-drained soil in sun, it will also thrive and bloom readily in part shade and in less than ideal soils. It self sows readily, but unlike potato vines, the youngsters are easy to eradicate.

-- posted by jfinn

Top 7. Jul 29, 1999 11:05 PM

» Sharon_Sanderson - Yes indeedy Julie, the potatoe vine is evil.

Yes indeedy Julie, the potatoe vine is evil. I know about those tubers..dug up some real beauts. But I do have to keep on top of it. I did not know that leaving a small piece and they grow again. I have been pulling them out whole fortunately. I thought they were called stone potatoes..is that true? They are hard as a rock. I heard about that eating them thing...a handyman we have who is from Puerto Rico said their delicious. I told him he was nuts but maybe he is right. They look so hairy with those little roots sticking out.To me they are just horrible. Beat out kudzu eh? wow.

We have confederate jasmine on three huge arbors over our brick walkways. When they were all in bloom the scent was magnificent. I have another one to plant so I might consider that. But that Silver Lace sounds real interesting. I think I just might go with that then again the clematis might be the trick. I want to look at the flowers and then decide.

D. alata..hmmm. Trying to picture that. What do you mean by winged stems? We have a variety of aggressive vines on the property. I have made a lot of vine wreaths though that are drying and getting ready for spraying for the holidays.

Thanks so much for all that great information. I printed it and will take it with me to the nursery. I will sound so smart. he he.

Do you some information in that wealth of information you have on planting pumpkins?

-- posted by Sharon_Sanderson

Top 8. Oct 20, 1999 2:21 PM

» JulieA_4 - Care of star jasmine (trachelospermum jasminoides)

We recently moved from PA to CA and my unfortunate tendancy not to want to cut or otherwise mutilate plants is REALLY a problem now. (Up north, I'd just harvest the lamb's quarters, purslane, and burdock along with the rest of the stuff, and I'd justify cutting the plant by eating it, but now we have a tiny lawn and a a narrow row of vines and flowers along the tall privacy fence which isolates each household from the next, and I am beholden to maintain our property value by keeping all these mysterious new southern plants looking neat and trim.) So my question here is, will I hurt the star jasmine if I prune it rather severely? They are crowding into the rose's space quite badly. Is there any time of year I shoudn't cut them back when they start curling around the rose buses in front of them? Should I just cut the arms wherever they are intrusive, or should I chop some of the arms back in further where they are woody? Should I trim the tip-tops so they don't droop back down on themselves?

-- posted by JulieA_4

Top 9. Oct 22, 1999 11:39 AM

» jfinn - Pruning Trachelospermum jasminoides

Dear Julie,
T. jasminoides should be pruned drastically every three years to rejuvenate old plants and encourage lush new growth. Because it's a spring-blooming vine, flower buds are set on old wood. This means that if you prune the plant at any time EXCEPT immediately after flowering, you will sacrifice next year's blooms.
In Florida our vines are typically pruned in late May or early June. If you are unsure when your vines finish blooming in your area, ask a neighbor.
In response to your question, will I hurt the jasmine if I prune it rather severely, the answer is no. Pruning performed in fall or winter will not harm the plant per say, it will only prevent blossoms from forming. Because confederate jasmine is such a rambunctious grower (shoots can grow 15 to 20 feet each season), this may not be an ideal companion for your roses. You may want to investigate another type of slow-growing, delicate vine such as a clematis, which will consort well with roses.
If you still want to keep the jasmine in its present location, continue pruning away any growth that intrudes on your roses. Just remember that any pruning cut will result in the new growth branching -- whereas before you had one "arm" now you will be dealing with two. I'd cut 2 to 3 feet back from your roses. If you cut into the woody growth, do so at a "branch collar."

Should I trim the tip-tops so they don't droop back down on themselves?
Trimming the terminal growth will affect bud set, unless done at the proper time. A better idea would be to redirect the growth or provide a taller means of support.

-- posted by jfinn