Laura Thompson's Blog
Posted by Laura Thompson
A Suite101 reader asks:
"Laura, I was wondering if you could help me with my horse. He is always rushing fences and I can't seem to get him to slow down and wait for my cues. He never refuses anything but he seems to think he needs to run at every fence just to get over it. Help?"
Rushing fences is a common problem in hunters, jumpers and three-day eventing. The problem is usually one of three issues:
- The horse is excited when he sees fences and speeds up to get to it faster. Some horses love their jobs and get a little over exuberant.
- If your horse is under-muscled, he might be rushing fences because he is afraid he won't be able to get over them otherwise. This problem is solved with endurance work and strength exercises.
- Some horses turn to rushing fences because they are in pain (usually legs or back), and if they jump longer, faster and flatter, they don't have to arch as much over the fence. This problem requires a veterinary consult.
- Rider interference is the last reason why horses rush fences. You might be unintentionally "goosing" him before the fence, which he takes as a cue to speed up.
Honestly, in most cases, a horse rushing fences is responding to something the rider has done. That is my experience, and it tends to be true with all training-related problems. One of the ways to test this theory is to have a trainer or riding instructor ride your horse and see if he is still rushing fences.
Make sure that, on the approach, you are as calm and unintrusive in the saddle as possible. Concentrate on keeping your center still -- if necessary, try hopping up in your two-point so you can't "goose" him forward.
Additionally, work on developing your horse's top line and abdominal muscles so he has sufficient strength to jump nice and round. Rushing fences is often the result of lack of muscle, and your horse doesn't realize that speed doesn't compensate for energy and strength.
Posted by Laura Thompson
Normally I use this blog to answer questions from readers and to provide links to articles I've written as well as to other sources online. However, I occasionally feel the need to rant about something and this seems like the perfect spot.
Lately I've received a number of questions from Suite 101 readers about training their own horses. Some of these questions address the very basic fundamentals of horse training and give me pause because, if a would-be horse trainer does not understand the basics, how can he or she expect to communicate the appropriate behavior to his or her horse?
Horse training is a sensitive, time-consuming project that can be both frustrating and disheartening for the most experienced of trainers. A beginner, on the other hand, might find himself a candidate for the loony bin after a couple of weeks. That is, unless he solicits the assistance of an experienced horse trainer.
If you are relatively new to the equestrian sport, or if you have never trained a horse before, I urge you to do one of the following:
1. Hire a horse trainer to assist you with the process. This is a great learning experience and will still allow you hands-on bonding time with your horse. It just ensures the training process is done right the first time.
2. Buy an experienced horse. It is much easier to purchase a veteran horse (a "schoolmaster") than to train a baby yourself. Although an experienced older horse might cost more, you will save thousands on training and headaches in the future.
I do not say this to discourage horse lovers from pursuing their passion. I say it as both a warning and a plea because I hate to see depressed or injured horse owners licking their wounds in a corner. And believe it, if you don't know what you're doing you will be either depressed or injured – and probably both.
Posted by Laura Thompson
A Suite101 reader asks:
"Hi Laura. I just purchased a Thoroughbred as a jumper prospect and I've noticed he has these dotted lines up and down his front legs. They don't hurt him but I don't think he was born with them. Do you know what they could be?"
Without a picture I can only offer conjecture, but I'm guessing the dots you are seeing are the result of a procedure called pin firing. It has been used on race horses for decades but is now considered mostly obsolete because better techniques have been devised.
Pin firing is a therapeutic treatment used to help horses recover more quickly (and more thoroughly) from certain leg injuries, such as bowed tendons. It involves sticking red-hot metal pins into the horse's tissues, which causes cauterization of the area. It is usually done under mild sedation and is considered safe by the AAEP (American Association of Equine Practitioners).
Although the pin firing itself should not cause you to worry with regard to your new horse, I'm surprised his medical history was not divulged prior to purchase. If he has suffered an injury in the past that required pin firing, you should have been made aware of it.
My advice is to ask a veterinarian to confirm the pin firing history when he next comes to your barn for injections or other treatments. I would also contact the previous owner to request a detailed medical history and to learn the circumstances surrounding his prior injury.
Good luck!
Got a question? If you have a horse question you'd like Laura Thompson to answer, e-mail her at horses@suite101.com and she'll answer in an upcoming blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
I don't know about you, but I worked my way through every horse movie I could find growing up. In fact, my heart still skips a beat when I see a new movie on television or in the theaters that focuses on horses, even from a peripheral perspective.
What are your favorite horse movies? Here are some of mine:
1. Wild Hearts Can't Be Broken
Gabrielle Anwar stars as Sonora Webster in this 1991 horse movie about the woman with the high-diving horse. She proves that neither poverty nor blindness can deter her from reaching her goals, and although it is based on a true story, the movie is highly fictionalized.
2. Dark Horse
One of the best horse movies of the nineties, Dark Horse stars Ed Begley, Jr., and Ari Meyers as father and daughter. Allison Mills gets into trouble with boys and alcohol, and as a result is sentenced to provide community service at a horse ranch. She falls in love with one of the horses and learns about love when disaster strikes.
3. My Friend Flicka
My favorite horse movies are those that were filmed before 1070. My Friend Flicka (and its sequel, Thunderhead: Son of Flicka) tells the story of Ken McLaughlin (Roddy McDowell) and his supposedly untrainable horse, a mare named Flicka. This 1953 classic was remade in 2006 with a female main character instead of a boy.
4. National Velvet
Velvet Brown (Elizabeth Taylor) steals the hearts of everyone who watches this 1941 horse movie about a young girl who wants to take the horse she won in a raffle to the Grand National race. With the help of a traveling trainer, Mi Taylor (Mickey Rooney).
5. The Man From Snowy River
A beautiful setting in the mountains of Australia combined with a breathtaking score and gorgeous horses almost eliminate the need for actors in this 1982 horse movie. However, Kirk Douglas and Tom Burlinson do an amazing job.
Other favorite horse movies:
- The Horse in the Grey Flannel Suit
- The Black Stallion
- Black Beauty
- Primo Baby
- Lightening, the White Stallion
- Phar-Lap
What are some of your favorite horse movies?
Posted by Laura Thompson
Today, when you go out to the barn to ride your horse, I urge you to forget about the looming competition or the flying changes you're trying to master. Just go out and be with your horse.
Most of us start riding horses because we love the animals. We enjoy the freedom of riding, the sense of balance and control it brings, and we exalt in the natural rhythms of our horses' gaits.
Then we start learning more about riding and perhaps develop an interest in competition. We become obsessed with improving our skills and reaching the next goals on our to-do lists. We forget why we started riding in the first place.
Every once in a while, it's a good idea to just enjoy your horse. Take him for a long trail ride through the woods, spend an hour grooming him in his stall, or hand-graze him in the yard while you read a book or chat with friends. Just be with your horse.
Not only is this beneficial for the rider, but for the horse as well.
Some people mistakenly believe that animals -- horses included -- are devoid of emotions, and therefore incapable of bonding with humans or other animals. These people would have you believe that human beings maintain an exclusive patent on love, joy, loneliness, grief and everything in between.
I disagree.
i have worked with horses all my life and to say that a horse cannot feel emotion seems ignorant beyond forgiveness. Horses desire human companionship just as we desire their presence in our lives, and I encourage you to rekindle that bond with your horse today.
Competition is great and so is the desire to be a better rider. But at some point, you have to go back to the foundation of your relationship with horses. It will rejuvenate you more than you realize and might even provide opportunities for breakthroughs that will eventually improve your performance. Who knows?
Posted by Laura Thompson
- A friend starts talking about the adoption procedure and you immediately think of adopting a mare and foal from the BLM.
- Your idea of childcare is sending your kids to their weekly riding lessons.
- When your friends discuss ways to keep their kids in line, you start talking about how your horse just won't stop cribbing.
- If a natural disaster is headed your way, your first priority is evacuating your horses from the barn to a safe location.
- When your kids misbehave, you accidentally shout your horse's name in anger.
- Most of your medical bills are from your veterinarian.
- Your horse's paddock and stall combined are larger than the square footage of your home.
- A play day or birthday party in your family involves horses instead of moonwalks.
- Your idea of validation is a big blue ribbon.
- Most of last year was spent on trying to ride the perfect circle.
- You spend more money each year on horse grooming supplies than beauty products.
- The last time you needed to buy new glasses, your concern was whether the eyewear was appropriate for riding.
- For you, diagonals are the way you post the trot rather than the organization of matrices.
- You can tie a horse faster than you can tie a necktie.
- Personal security means whether or not your saddle, bridle and monogrammed saddle pad are safe.
- You use the tax-free shopping days to pick up new equestrian equipment, but forget to buy your kids' school supplies.
- Your horse's stall is cleaner than your bedroom.
- To you, Black Friday means a new show halter.
- Colic and thrush are conditions that plague horses, not children, in your estimation.
- For you, philosophy means Parelli and Lyons rather than Aristotle and Descartes.
Posted by Laura Thompson
A Suite101 reader asks:
"I just started working at a horse barn and was wondering if you had tips for remembering the horses, when it comes to feeding and things like that, I'm so afraid I'll mix up their feed or something like that. Please Help, I'm Desperate."
Believe it or not, I had this same fear when I started working at my barn in Houston at the age of fourteen, and it was terrifying. There were more than 75 horses and I was responsible not only for feeding them, but also for bringing them in from the pasture.
My first tip is to tell your boss about your concern. It might not seem professional, but he or she will actually respect you more for being honest. No one can be expected to learn the names and appearances of all the horses in just a week or two of employment. However, many stable owners forget this and will overlook it if you don't bring it up.
The best way to learn the horses' names depends on how you feed. Do you mix grain in advance or do you throw grain in the paddocks or stalls? If you mix grain, I recommend writing all the horses' names down on a piece of paper or a white board, then recording what they eat next to their names.
Eventually it will become second nature, but the goal is to attach names to quantities of grain in your mind. You might also have to add supplements or medications to feed for certain horses, so the stable owner should understand your concern.
My other piece of advice is to focus on learning the horses' names for the next two weeks. Every time you walk a horse out to his or her paddock or toss grain in his or her stall, look at the horse carefully and attach his name to a physical characteristic.
For example: Socks is the chestnut with four white socks and a star; Genius is the bay gelding with a scar on his right shoulder. And so on.
The most important thing, however, is to write it all down until you have it memorized. If the stable owner has a problem with this, then you've probably found the wrong horse job.
Good luck!
Got a question? If you have a horse question you'd like Laura Thompson to answer, e-mail her at horses@suite101.com and she'll answer in an upcoming blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
A Suite101 reader asks:
"I've decided I want to buy a younger horse to train up, but I'm not sure where to start looking. Where do you recommend shopping for horses?"
This is a great question, but unfortunately one to which there is no right answer. I've known friends who have found great horses online, others who have purchased overseas, and still more who have answered classified ads. There are wonderful horses everywhere!
The question, really, is where do you feel comfortable shopping for a horse? If you wouldn't purchase a computer or a book online, for example, shopping for a horse online is probably not the best solution for you. Similarly, if you don't like to travel, I don't recommend looking for horses in a country other than your own.
My advice is always to start with the local classified ads. You can find them in your newspaper (under "Pets"), in industry newsletters and in magazines. Look for some of the qualities you desire in a horse and work from there.
The second best place to go shopping for a horse is in farms and stables around your own. The equestrian community is extremely incestuous, and if you ask any one horse owner, he or she most likely knows someone else with a horse for sale. It's the nature of the business.
You can also go shopping for horses at web sites like DreamHorse.com, where photographs and videos are often posted along with text descriptions. However, unless you are a horse dealer I do not recommend shopping for horses outside your general geographic vicinity. If you have to drive further than 200 miles, you're going too far.
If you do decide to go shopping for horses online, read my article on finding your dream horse on the Internet. It offers some practical tips and advice on how to make sure you get what you're looking for.
Good luck!
Got a question? If you have a horse question you'd like Laura Thompson to answer, e-mail her at horses@suite101.com and she'll answer in an upcoming blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
A kind Suite101 reader sent this question in yesterday:
"Laura, I love your articles! I always learn something new! My question, though, is about my horse Jasper. We're training for 3day eventing and I'm not sure how hard I should work him. I want to get in some dressage and jumping as well as X-country schooling every week but I don't want to burn him out. How often should I work on training versus hacking?"
This is a common issue for horse owners who are interested in competition. They want to prepare for horse shows by focusing on technique and endurance, but horses are no more capable of constant work than we are. Most of us, for example, enjoy relaxing on the weekends because we need a break from the weekly grind.
Horses need a break as well, but the question is how often?
In my experience, horses will tell you when they are burning out and sore. How often you should train depends on your horse's level of fitness and the type of training you are doing every day. For example, no horse owner should jump his horse every day. Twice a week is more than sufficient.
Dressage, although not necessarily as "active" a sport as jumping, also takes quite a bit of endurance and strength. Trying to ride dressage every day is like a human trying to do complex gymnastics every day. You get sore, tired and frustrated.
My advice is to come up with a schedule that works for both you and your horse. I usually recommend one day off from riding every day and at least one day of hacking (just riding). The other days can be devoted to hardcore competition preparation.
Other trainers might offer different advice, and some people never give their horses days off. This, to me, is tantamount to abuse, and will result in a very uncooperative horse. However, every horse owner has to make this decision for him or herself.
Additionally, you can throw in non-riding days that still provide exercise. For example, some trainers and horse owners will lunge their horses in a rig (or without) one day a week to work on form but reduce overload.
Good luck!
Got a question? If you have a horse question you'd like Laura Thompson to answer, e-mail her at horses@suite101.com and she'll answer in an upcoming blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
Lots of kids own or ride horses in the United States. When I was growing up, most of my friends were from the barn rather than from class. I also remember spending every moment I could at the barn, riding and hanging out, which sometimes threatened the quality of my schoolwork.
It's tough for parents to manage kids, horses and school. A Suite101 reader asks:
"My thirteen year old daughter had trouble in school last year because she spent too much time with her horse! I'm worried this year is going to be a redux and I don't know how to keep her priorities straight without threatening to restrict her riding time. I don't want to reward bad behavior but I also think her horses are good for her. Any tips?"
I think this is an issue that many parents of horsey kids experience -- including mine. While horses improve leadership skills, create positive relationships between kids and teach lifelong lessons, they can also be a drain on any child's time. Any moment spent at the barn is a moment not spent studying.
I'm going to publish several articles this week on horse/life balance, including articles for teenagers and parents of teenagers. However, I'll offer a few gems of wisdom here:
Encourage Studying at the Barn. Most stables have a place where kids can hole up for an hour or two with the books. If you don't want to limit "barn time," ask your daughter to take her backpack to the barn. There she can get homework over with before she gets on her horse.
Ask About Schoolwork. Left to their own devices, many teenagers will simply pretend their homework doesn't exist. It's an effective way to justify more time with horses, but it doesn't do much for the old G.P.A. One way to encourage more attention to schoolwork is to ask about it. Inquire about upcoming tests and projects to remind your daughter she has other responsibilities.
Set Ground Rules. If your daughter knows there will be no consequences for earning poor grades, she isn't going to buckle down. Much as it might pain you, set ground rules at the beginning of the school year with regard to grades and horses. If she earns below a certain letter grade, she can't go to the barn. Period.
Kids can actually prioritize their time quite well when given the proper motivation to balance school and horses. To keep kids involved with both school and horses, it's the parents' job to make their expectations known and enforce the consequences they outlined in the beginning.
Got a question? If you have a horse question you'd like Laura Thompson to answer, e-mail her at horses@suite101.com and she'll answer in an upcoming blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
A Suite101 reader recently asked:
"Hi Laura. I've heard a lot about adopting wild horses from the government. Is there any truth to this?"
Absolutely! The U.S. Bureau of Land Management (BLM) holds regular adoptions for wild horses and burros. Additionally, it is possible to privately adopt horses through rescue farms and other intermediaries. Most of these horses have been abused or neglected, while wild horses have had no human contact.
If you would like to know more about equine adoption, read "How to Adopt a Horse" or visit the BLM web site for wild horse adoptions.
Remember, though, that adopting a horse is serious business and requires a full-fledged commitment. You do have to pay for the horse you adopt ($125 or $250 for government adoptions) and you have to pay for its upkeep. Most equine adoption facilitators require you to sign a document agreeing not to sell or give the horse away.
Working with rescue horses and wild horses is no easy task. Both categories of equine require experienced riders with nearly infinite patience. I've worked with several rescue horses over the years, and although each one was a unique and satisfying experience, those horses challenged me every step of the way. It is vital to establish trust first and begin training second.
Good luck to those who are interested in adopting a horse this September 26 (or at any time!) and make sure to learn all you can about the process before you embark on it.
Got a question? If you have a horse question you'd like Laura Thompson to answer, e-mail her at horses@suite101.com and she'll answer in an upcoming blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
A Suite101 reader asks:
"I run a small boarding barn and I'm starting to realize that our feeding schedule is not very organized or efficient. We have 15 horses. What is the best way to feed horses? Should you mix grain before feeding or just wheel a bunch of bags down the aisle and drop in grain? What about hay? I'm so frustrated!"
This is a loaded question but I'm going to try and answer it as thoroughly as I can..
I've worked with dozens upon dozens of stables and barns, and each one feeds differently. I have noticed that feeding schedules vary depending on where you live -- we feed differently in Texas, for example, than barn owners do in Pennsylvania.
However, here are a few rules of thumb I've picked up over the years:
1. Mix Grain First
If you have more than 10 horses, mixing grain at the beginning of the day is the best way to save time. Assuming you feed your horses twice a day, you can mix both feedings in one shot and you won't have to worry about it the rest of the day. My advice is to get two small buckets (couple quarts each) and set them on a shelf next to each horse's name.
Mix all grain into the two buckets in the morning, then feed the first set of buckets. You should add supplements, medication and other additives to the feed right then so you won't have to worry about it again until the next morning.
2. Keep a Feed Board
A white board or chalk board is the best horse feeding tool you can possibly invest in. Hang it on the wall in the feed room, list all the horse's names on the left side and write down what they are fed next to their names. Include medications and supplements (which might change, so make sure to update your white board) and make sure to write legibly.
This type of set-up not only will remind you what each horse eats, but will also facilitate a helper's job. If you need someone else to take over feeding for the day because you're sick or out of town, you won't have to rush to scribble down instructions.
3. Stack the Feed Buckets
Rather than going into your horses' stalls for their feed buckets, take your own feed buckets to them. The smaller buckets mentioned in number one above are easily carried down the barn aisle. Just dump the contents into each horse's stall.
The important thing here is to either label the buckets or set them up in the order of the horse's in the barn. For example, put buckets for the horses on the left side of the barn on one shelf and the buckets for horses on the right side on another shelf. Then order them from one end of the barn to the other to avoid confusion.
4. Feed Hay Separately
Your horses can wait a few minutes for their daily rations of hay. Feed grain first, then go back with the hay. My advice is to pile a couple bales into a plastic wheelbarrow and head down the barn aisle, dropping a couple flakes into each horse's stall.
5. Keep Flies Away
Flies are probably the numero uno barn menace, and they will swarm mixed grain if you don't make an effort to keep them out. After mixing grain, my advice is to cover your little buckets with feed bags. They won't cost you any more money because you've already emptied bags to feed your horses.
Make sure all grain bins have a cover -- preferably one that can lock down on top of the grain -- to keep flies and other pests out. If you discover that rats or flies have been in your grain, you might have to throw it out.
I hope this helps, and good luck with your horse feeding situation!
Got a question? If you have a horse question you'd like Laura Thompson to answer, e-mail her at horses@suite101.com and she'll answer in an upcoming blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
The fall horse show season will be starting in the next couple of months, depending on your discipline. This is the time to gear up for competition, set goals for future horse shows and outline a game plan for the season.
Although the horse show season is not as clearly defined as with other sports, the fall brings with it a new beginning. How will you and your horse(s) fare this year? Where will you show? And what will you accomplish?
My favorite thing to do at the start of the fall horse show season is to write down a list of goals for the entire year. Some might be specific (e.g. win three first-place ribbons), while others are more abstract (e.g. conquering a specific movement or obstacle). It's a great way to monitor your progress with your horse(s) and evaluate decisions.
It doesn't matter if you're showing a green horse in his first horse show or riding a seasoned veteran toward a championship qualification. You might be very competitive with your eye on year-end awards or simply out for the fun. Whatever the case, you do have goals and desires that you can help yourself realize.
So what are your fall horse show goals and how do you plan to accomplish them?
Posted by Laura Thompson
Yesterday I received the following question from a Suite101 reader:
Laura, I was wondering if you think it's safe to let other people ride your horse? No one has been on my mare since I bought her three years ago but my horsey friends keep bugging me. I don't like telling them "no", but it seems like it could be a safety issue as well as a training problem. Hope you can help.
This is a very personal decision and one about which many people have different views. Some like the idea of watching someone else take their horses for a spin, while others feel that another rider might compromise their training program.
Letting someone else ride your horse can also become a liability issue. If he or she is hurt while working with or riding your horse,a lawsuit could result.
Here's my take: I won't let just anyone ride my horse, but if I respect the other person's training methods and if I have a signed liability waiver, I'm more than willing to share the love.
Like people, horses can become complacent with just one rider. However, I'm more interested in your point of view. do you let other people ride your horse?
Posted by Laura Thompson
We've all been in a place before where we've felt cooped up, uncomfortable or irritable. Who's to say a horse can't experience the same unease in a stall or paddock. A Suite101 reader wants to know what to do if her horse hates her stall.
I've only run into a couple of horses during my career who have shown strong aversions to a stall. In one case, a colony of ants had taken up residence under the shavings, and in the other, the horse had never been in a stall before and was used to more space.
Your horse might display negative behaviors in the stall:
- Pawing
- Weaving
- Cribbing
- Calling
- Pacing
None of these is particularly healthy, so it is important to understand why the horse doesn't like her stall and make changes accordingly.
First, make sure the horse has everything she needs in the stall, including water and hay. A plentiful supply of coastal hay is the best way to keep a horse occupied when in her stall, though a salt block might also make a useful addition.
Look for anything that could be agitating the horse, such as ants, an exposed nail or even a peculiar smell. Perhaps the stall was disinfected recently and the walls have retained some chemical residue. Barring that, it's all up to training.
The reader who contacted me was concerned that she would harm the horse by not putting her in the stall, particularly as we approach the summer months. This is a great observation, but the horse might do more damage to herself in the stall than she would outside.
That said, don't give up entirely. Start by putting the horse in her stall for just an hour or two at a time, perhaps while you are doing barn chores. If she starts to get agitated, visit her in the stall until she calms down.
Slowly increase the amount of time the horse is in the stall until she is able to stay inside all night without a fuss.
Of course, there are times when horses display violent or dangerous behavior when in a stall, and in this case, professional assistance might be necessary. If the horse is scared or anxious, she could easily harm a human without actually meaning to cause injury.
Posted by Laura Thompson
A Suite101 reader writes:
"We have an area on our property that has several orange and grapefruit trees. When we enclose a pasture is it OK to include these in the area? It will give the horse a lot more grazing area, but I'm not sure if they are dangerous to horses or if they would even like the leaves."
Great question! I recently wrote a blog about whether pine needles are safe for horses, so it seems lots of horse owners are curious what local vegetation will do to their animals' stomachs. I applaud anyone who researches these issues because they can save lives.
In the case of citrus trees, however, your horses should be perfectly safe. Most horses will leave fruit on trees alone, anyway, and fruits are not dangerous to horses if consumed in moderate amounts.
The only real problem I see with citrus trees and horses is the pesticides often used on these plants to keep insects away. Some pesticides are toxic to horses (and humans!) so make sure to read the ingredients on the can before giving your trees a good spray.
You can also talk to your veterinarian about equine-safe pesticides that you can use on citrus trees in paddocks and pastures. This is the easiest way to ensure your horses are safe.
On another note, some horses are more curious than others, and might get sufficiently interested to sample grapefruit or oranges from your citrus trees. If you find that your horses are grabbing the fruit on a regular basis, you can simply erect a fence around the trees without having to reduce your pasture space significantly.
Of course, this really only matters if you are concerned about losing fruit. As mentioned above, fruits are not dangerous for horses as long as they aren't consumed en masse.
Thank you for your question!
Have a horse question? Submit it to horses@suite101.com, and Laura will answer either in a blog post or in a personal e-mail.
Posted by Laura Thompson
If you conduct a Google search on the phrase "natural horsemanship", the search engine will return about 500,000 results. Suffice to say, this is a huge issue in the equestrian community.
I'd never heard of natural horsemanship until a few years ago, and when I finally researched the concepts behind it, my reaction was: "But this is common sense!" Natural horsemanship is not a marketing scheme or a program you can follow to perfect results. It is merely a philosophy that has existed for many generations.
The "horse training gurus" like Parelli, Roberts, Lyons and others often teach various aspects of natural horsemanship, but their ideas are not new. As for me, I don't have any use for Parelli's games or Roberts's demonstrations because they do not further my own goals. However, some aspects of my own training philosophy are derived from natural horsemanship.
Recently, I've received several messages from Suite101 readers about natural horsemanship in general and these training gurus in particular:
- "Should I trust Pat Parelli?"
- "Does John Lyons know what he's talking about?"
- "Are Monty Roberts's claims just parlor tricks?"
- "Should I follow a particular trainer?"
- "What is natural horsemanship?"
I'm going to write an article on the final question, but the others are up to the masses. What do you think? Should you trust one of these horse training gurus over another? Or are they all just frauds? And what does any of this have to do with natural horsemanship?
I'm interested in your opinions. Please leave them in the comments section below (respectfully, please).
Have a horse question? Send it to horses@suite101.com and Laura Thompson will answer it, either in a personal e-mail or in a blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
This weekend, I received an e-mail from a frustrated Suite101 reader who is concerned about her horse's new behavior. She purchased the horse for her 12-year-old daughter, and the horse has displayed aggressive behavior when she encounters other horses and when someone enters her stall with food or water.
I responded privately, but I thought that other Suite101 readers might be having the same troubles. Does your horse try to kick you? Bite you? Crowd you? Aggressive behavior on the ground is much more common than aggressive behavior in the saddle, and it can be dangerous.
First, it is important to get control of the situation. If you know that your horse is aggressive on the ground, it's time to ensure you safety. Whenever you enter an enclosed area where your horse is waiting, halter him immediately. If you have to fill his water bucket or feed bucket, halter him first and then take care of business.
This way, you have control of the horse's head. If he tries to swivel and kick or if he reaches out to bite, you can control the direction of his head and prevent a dangerous alteration.
I also recommend carrying a small crop or bat with you if your horse is aggressive on the ground. This is not so you can beat your horse, but rather so you can communicate that certain behaviors are unacceptable.
If your horse tries to swivel his haunches toward you to kick, give him a smack on his rump. If he lunges forward to bite, land that crop on his neck. This is more for the sound than anything else; it tells him instantly that he's made a mistake.
To protect others, make sure you post a warning on your horse's stall or paddock if he is aggressive on the ground. Say something to the effect of: THIS HORSE IS NOT SAFE. DO NOT TOUCH, PET OR FEED.
The reader who e-mailed me was concerned that if she hit her horse or smacked her that she would respond violently. Generally speaking, horses are flight animals. They are not predators, which means they are not likely to come back at you vindictively for reprimanding them. Just remember that you are dealing with an aggressive horse, so keep your eyes open at all times.
If you are worried about dealing with an aggressive horse, check out some of this further reading:
Training the Pushy Horse: How to Establish Boundaries with Horses - A pushy horse is more than an annoyance-he's a danger to people and other animals. To establish boundaries with horses, riders must make their intentions clear.
How to Deal with a Striking Horse - A striking horse is a danger to all other horses as well as the humans with whom he comes in contact. A horse that strikes should be corrected immediately.
Dealing with an Aggressive Horse - As with all animals, some horses are more aggressive than others. Horse owners, however, should not tolerate this behavior.
Posted by Laura Thompson
Summer is coming up, which means an increase in fungal infections in horses. It doesnt' matter where you live because moist soil and grass provide the perfect breeding ground for fungi, though hot, humid areas of the world are most vulnerable.
So how do you prevent fungal infections in horses?
- Don't turn horses out too early in the morning. Wait until some of the dew has dried off the ground.
- Bathe your horse occasionally in equine anti-fungal shampoo.
- Don't share tack and grooming implements with other horse owners.
- Treat open wounds immediately and cover with gauze.
- Keep your horse away from other horses who might be infected.
- Vacuum your horse's coat to remove dust and dirt to which fungi can adhere.
There is no way to completely eliminate the potential for fungal infections in horses, but you can reduce the possibility significantly by keeping your horse safe, clean and dry.
If, however, your horse does develop a fungal infection, my article on how to eliminate fungal infections will be of considerable use.
Have a question about horses? Send it to Horses@Suite101.com!
Posted by Laura Thompson
A Suite101 reader asks this question:
"My horse (a five-year-old QH gelding) will NOT pick up his left lead. I've seen him do it in the pasture and he'll usually do it on the longe line, but he won't pick up the left lead under saddle. Any advice?"
Horses are like people when it comes to directions. Just like you might favor your right hand, it is likely your gelding favors his right lead. When you ask him to pick up his left lead, it's like trying to write cursive with your left hand.
Obviously, the majority of horses are quite ambidextrous, but all horses are stronger in one direction than another. Sometimes this predilection is informed by comfort, such as a race horse who feels secure traveling only to the left because that is where his experience lies.
For others, it is simply a matter of strength, muscular development and practice.
You mentioned that your horse will pick up his left lead on the lunge line. This indicates that his problem is not pathological, so you can probably rule out injury. However, if you want to be on the safe side, you can contact your veterinarian for a lameness exam.
Barring some sort of pain, the issue is most likely one of repetition. Your horse doesn't realize that he can be comfortable on the left lead, so he chooses to counter-canter regardless of which direction you are traveling. On the lunge line, he is automatically working in a circle, and it is therefore more comfortable to pick up the left lead. Exploit that.
Rather than working him in a pasture or arena, start riding in the round pen. Warm him up first on the lunge line in both directions to ensure elasticity, then mount up and work him for fifteen minutes under saddle.
If your round pen is smaller than 60 meters or if the dirt/sand is too deep for safe riding, you'll have to improvise. Create your own round pen in the arena with caveletti or PVC, and start riding him on a circle. He should pick up the left lead for you when working on the bend.
You can also try loping/cantering over cavaletti in the arena. As you approach the pole, shift your weight into the outside stirrup, almost cocking your hip to the right. Use right leg to indicate he should pick up his left lead and make sure you are looking to the left as you cross the pole.
The one major mistake riders make when using a trot pole or cavaletti for picking up leads is jerking the horse in the direction desired. Don't use your reins as a crutch for poor leg presence. You can tighten your left rein slightly to capture his nose, but don't make an exaggerated movement with your rein at the risk of irritating or hurting the horse.
And finally, work your horse to the left at the walk, trot and canter. Failure to pick up the left lead is symptomatic of overall discomfort; he is likely stiffer to the left on all gaits. Watch for inversion of the neck and back when you change direction to the left; this indicates resistance to the direction itself.
Good luck!
Have a horse question? Send it to Horses@Suite101.com and Laura Thompson will provide an answer, either in a private e-mail or in a blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
What types of horse articles do you like to read? What areas of the horse industry interest you most?
I would love for Suite101 to be the best place on the Internet for horse lovers to learn about their favorite animal. To do that, though I need your help.
Either by e-mailing me at Horses@Suite101.com or by commenting on this blog post, tell me what you would like to learn about. Interested in training tips? Veterinary care? Riding advice? Information on specific equestrian programs and philosophies?
You can read some of the articles already available in the Horses section of Suite101 here, but I'm always interested in branching out to new areas of information. If I don't know the answer to your question or if I'm not familiar with the subject you are interested in, I'll find out from other experts in the industry.
So bring it on, horse lovers! Let me know what you would like to read about, and I'll get to writing!
Remember, you can always e-mail me at Horses @Suite101.com with questions about horses, or you can comment on this blog post (or on any articles and posts) with your suggestions.I'll look forward to your responses.
Posted by Laura Thompson
In my experience, a rewards-based training system is about as effective as a punishment-based training system. If you only expect your horse to perform when a carrot—proverbial or otherwise—is dangling in front of his nose, you won't get the results you want when it really counts.
Similarly, if you are punishing your horse rather than offering negative reinforcement for poor behavior, you'll just wind up with a scared, frustrated animal. Fear and greed are not the foundations upon which you want your horse training efforts to be based.
With that said, it is not a bad idea to feed your horse treats as long as the treats are not tied to a particular behavior. Don't use treats as a reward; just give your horse treats when you're feeling generous. It can create a positive relationship between horse and rider, and let's face it: treating your horse feels good.
It is also important to feed your horse healthy treats. For example, carrots are far better than sugar cubes when giving your horse a mid-day snack. You can also buy healthy horse treats at your local feed and tack store that are full of carbs, protein and essential nutrients.
I've discovered a lot of riders who put their culinary skills to good use in order to feed their horses treats. I can't boil water without making a mess, but if you enjoy working in the kitchen, you might want to research some horse treat recipes.
Have a horse question? Send it to Horses@Suite101.com and Laura Thompson will provide an answer, either in a private e-mail or in a blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
Last month, I received a question from a Suite101 reader about her horse:
My 5-year-old gelding will be standing still in his stall or in the arena while we are taking a break, and all of a sudden he'll start shaking his head up and down so his lips flap insanely. What does this mean? Is something bothering him?
Believe it or not, I've actually seen this behavior before, and you can rest assured that it isn't an indication of pain. If your horse was experiencing pain in his mouth, he might shake his head but he wouldn't do it in order to flap his lips.
However, it might mean that your horse is easily bored. Do you also have a problem with cribbing or weaving? Since he only does this when standing in his stall or in the area, this indicates that your horse is simply trying to amuse himself.
It could also be a nervous habit, like chewing your fingernails or tapping your fingers. Horses need to work off nervous energy as well, and your horse might suffer from anxiety. You can talk to your veterinarian if you think this might be a chronic problem.
The problem is that horses will often do this at inconvenient times, such as in the show ring. If you don't like the behavior, stop the horse as soon as he starts flapping and correct him with a sharp, "No!"
Have a horse question? Send it to Horses@Suite101.com and Laura Thompson will provide an answer, either in a private e-mail or in a blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
We humans are so concerned about the possibility of cancer and other health problems that the sudden appearance of a lump on our horse seems disastrous. I received an e-mail from a concerned reader whose horse had developed a quarter-sized lump on the inside of his hocks.
As always, it is best to seek the advice of a qualified veterinarian if you are worried about any aspect of your horse's health. Lumps, lesions, scrapes, scars, bruises and lacerations can be indicative of a larger problem, and only a veterinarian can adequately diagnose it.
That said, a soft lump on the inside of a horse's hock is most likely a bog spavin, which is a build-up of spinovial fluid. It probably won't be sensitive to the touch, but it could indicate trauma to or infection of the hock joint.
In many cases, a bog spavin is not an emergency and will go away on its own with hydrotherapy and rest. However, it can be drained by your veterinarian if he or she believes it is serious, and it might be necessary to take X-rays and other tests to determine if there is an underlying pathology.
If you find a hard lump on your horse or if the lump is located elsewhere, it could mean inflammation of a joint, swelling from blunt force trauma or any number of other conditions. Again, it is best to call the vet immediately.
Have a horse question? Send it to Horses@Suite101.com and Laura Thompson will provide an answer, either in a private e-mail or in a blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
I recently received a question from a concerned Suite101 reader about whether or not it is safe to feed horses pine needles. I answered her e-mail privately, but I thought the answer to this question might help other horse owners.
If you live in an area with lots of pine trees, it's safe to say your horse will encounter pine needles from time to time. And since horses are prone to grazing in their pastures or when walked by their owners, it is possible your horse will one day ingest a needle or two.
In some species of pine trees, the sap found in the pine needles is attractive to horses, which might be why your horse is munching down. I had a feeling about this particular issue, but I called my veterinarian to confirm.
It is not necessarily dangerous for a horse to eat pine needles, but it isn't necessarily healthy either. Horses have very sensitive digestive tracts, and any disruptions can cause problems, such as colic, bloody diarrhea and general distress. If your horse is eating pine needles, try clearing the area as often as possible.
And do not intentionally fed your horse pine needles. Even though there may be no negative consequences, it isn't a good idea.
Have a horse question? Send it to Horses@Suite101.com and Laura Thompson will provide an answer, either in a private e-mail or in a blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
In February, a doting father wrote to me about buying a horse for his seven-year-old father. He explained that he wanted to build a barn on his property and purchase a horse for her to ride at home. He wondered what exactly he should look for, given the conflicting advice found on the Internet.
When buying a horse for your daughter (or son), it is important to consider first his or her level of experience. Has your child taken riding lessons? Does he or she know how to care for a horse? How will you determine that the horse's needs have been met on a daily basis?
For a young child (tween and under), parental involvement is absolutely essential if you are keeping the horse on your own property. Feeding, watering, turning out, veterinary schedules, farrier visits and everything else involved in horse ownership is complex, and usually too much for a child to handle on his or her own.
Generally, I advise parents to board their child's horse at a local stable for at least a year. This might actually be more cost-effective than boarding at home, even if it isn't quite as convenient. During that year, your child can learn the basics of caring for a horse.
Other Things to Consider:
- Age. For a beginning rider, it is best to purchase a horse that is at least 9-10 years of age.
- Disposition. Spend time with a horse before you buy it for your son or daughter. Make sure the horse is quiet and gentle enough to support a young rider.
- Health. Take a look at the horse's veterinary records and make sure it is vetted before writing the check. Health problems can lead to serious monetary losses down the road.
- Breed. It really doesn't matter what breed of horse you buy for your son or daughter. Some experts say that certain breeds are better than others, but you will always find exceptions to the rule.
For a young child, you are looking for a baby-sitter (called a "packer"), a horse who will take care of your child even when he or she screws up. In addition to a calm disposition when being ridden, the horse should also be gentle on the ground, easily led, tied, shod, groomed and tacked up.
And although you are looking for an older horse, you don't want a geriatric case, either. Look for a horse with plenty of energy and sound legs, and don't forget to ask the veterinarian about respiratory and pulmonary problems. Loosing a horse is devastating for a child, so you don't want to buy a horse and have it pass away a few months later.
Have a horse question? Send it to Horses@Suite101.com and Laura Thompson will provide an answer, either in a private e-mail or in a blog post.
Posted by Laura Thompson
As you can probably tell from my recent lack of activity, I've taken a short hiatus—both from riding and from writing. This isn't because I was feeling burned out by either obligation, but because a family matter took precedence over everything else.
Now I'm back in the saddle again and excited about sharing my love of horses with all of Suite 101's readers. I can't tell you how good it feels to sit down at my computer and type just for the love of sharing information, or to visit my horses and actually have longer than five minutes to work and play.
What I've noticed, however, is that our muscles tend to atrophy when they aren't kept in use. Yesterday, after my first rigorous ride in almost two months, I felt like I would never be able to sit down normally again. Similarly, I find that writing doesn't come as naturally or as easily as it did before my brief hiatus.
Let this be a lesson to you: If possible, maintain your literal or figurative muscles for whatever you enjoy doing on a daily basis. Be it riding horses, writing articles or painting beautiful pictures, don't let other aspects of life get in the way.
Starting tomorrow, I will get to work on the myriad questions I've received from Suite101 readers over the last 60 days. I might be late, but I'm getting it done!
Have a question about horses? Send it to Horses@Suite101.com and Laura Thompson will provide an answer, either in a private e-mail or in a blog post.
In the meantime, if you need a pony fix, check out some of my latest articles:
- Reducing Back Pain on Horseback
- How to Deal with a Striking Horse
- Learning Diagonals on Horseback
- How to Tie a Horse
NOTE: If you write me to ask a horse question, please give me as many details as possible so I can be thorough. Include the age, breed and experience level of the horse if applicable, and describe any surrounding incidents that might help explain your problem. Thank you!