The Food of France

Posted by Terry Marsh Dec 19, 2006

The author makes the point that regionality and seasonality are key gastronomic topics that explore an incredible diversity of produce and culinary tradition. But the book is much more than that: in inviting you to discover the perfect Parisian steak tartare, served with a chilled Brouilly on a sunny autumn afternoon, Sarah Woodward also prompts you to study the waiter who serves them. He is as much a part of the dining experience as the steak and the wine.

Recipes there are galore, all influenced by that special regionality. Sarah has unified the vast départements of France into 15 manageable regions, promoting quintessential dishes and charming and intimate accounts of eating them. And those regions are not some geographical concept, but created and defined by what goes on in the fields, the markets and the kitchens.

There is no AOC for cooking, but what Sarah Woodward has defined is a 'correctness' about cooking, a term very much intended as a compliment. But it underscores the very essence of French cuisine – a meal can be well cooked, but unless the local standards and traditions have been observed, it is not 'correct'.

'The Food of France' by Sarah Woodward is published by Kyle Cathie Ltd, priced £25.