Nicholas Gill's Blog
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Luxury hotel chain Orient Express have announced that they have opened Las Casitas de Colca hotel, in the Colca Canyon near Arequipa, Peru. The lodge has 21 bungalows (150 squared meters each) with under floor heating, a small pool and a 650 squared-meter spa. A total investemnet between $4.5-5 million.
Colca Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world after Peru's nearby Cotahuasi Canyon, is slowly being improved and more than 140,000 are expected to visit in 2008. The canyon is one of the best places in South America to see the Andean Condor, is home to dozens of hiking routes and unspoiled Andean villages, and a Thermal Bath complex.
The company also runs the Hiram Bingham luxury train(Cusco to Aguas Calientes), the Hotel Monasterio(Cusco), and the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge (Aguas Caliente), and the Miraflores Park Hotel (Lima).
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The International Herald Tribune is reporting that more than 70,000 people have been infected with dengue fever since January in the Brazilian state of Rio and more than 80 have died. After two Portuguese tourists contracted the disease, foreign embassies including the United States have begin issuing warnings against travel to the popular resort city and its surroundings.
The disease, which is spread through bites of the Aedes aegypti mosquito, has no vaccine. Symptoms include "high fever, a rash, nausea, vomiting and severe headaches and joint and muscle pains." The disease lasts about one week and the only treatment are pain relievers, rest ,and fluids.
The Brazilian government has sent in 1,700 members of the armed forces to help anti-disease efforts around the state. Officials recommend that visitors wear trousers and long-sleeve shirts, and that they spray insect repellent on uncovered skin three times a day.
Rio de Janeiro is often the entry point for exploring Brazil and one of the most heavily touristed cities in South America.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The founder of JetBlue Airways, David Neeleman who was born in Brazil and holds dual citizenship, announced plans for a new Brazilian airline last week in Sao Paulo. The airline will begin small, with just a few jets, but will rapdily expand with 36 Brazilian made jets with a cost of $1.4 billion.
Considering that air travel in Brazil is 50 percent more expensive than in the United States, the idea is sure to be a welcome one. Like JetBlue, the Brazilian airline will have leather seats and live television in each seat back. The airline is expected to launce in early 2009 and expand by one plane per month.
Brazil actually has two other airlines, GOL and TAM, however, the new airline is expected to offer btter prices and serve new markets. Apart from flights to Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paolo, all Brazilian air space is wide open.
Jet Blue turned heads in the US by using new jets and offering better than expected service, while still managing to be a low-cost air carrier.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Aqua Expeditions' new M/V Aqua riverboat has begun plying the waters of the Amazon Basin in the Pacaya-Samira National Reserve near Iquitos, Peru.
This luxury floating ecolodge offers 3-7 night cruises in ne of the largest national parks in the entire Amazon Basin, Pacaya Samira, which is just up river from the port of Iquitos. Rarely has river travel in the amazon been so comfortable or posh. The 12 air-conditioned suites measure between 230 to 240 square feet and were designed by noted Peruvian architect Jordi Puig. A seven night itinerary starts at $4550 per person/double occupancy.
Itineraries make stops all along the rivers that are explored. Activities are similar to any other eco lodge such as monkey and wildlife watching, fishing in the rivers, spotting pink river dolphins, night excursions to search for caimans, and visit indigenous villags. Pre and post trips in the Amazon or elsewhere in Peru are also offered. quite a step up from my local river boat experience on the Rio Napo from Coca, Ecuador to Iquitos.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
City of God (Ciudad de Dios, 2003), directed by Katia Lund and Fernando Meirelles’s, brought viewers into Rio de Janeiro, Brazil’s chaotic, tragic slums. It was a world of drugs, crime, murder, betrayal, and hope. The film drew accolades from around the world and the movie was held as Brazil’s Pulp Fiction, among other things.
Now Paulo Morelli has released what can be considered a spiritual sequel, City of Men (Ciudad de Hombres, 2008), based on a successful Brazilian TV miniseries of the same name. The main characters, Luis Claudío (Ace) and Wallace, grew up together in a Rio favela, or shanty town. Ace, who is already a father, turns 18 and sets off to find his own father that he never knew.
The early reviews say that the film doesn’t live up to its predecessor, but still has the same beautiful shots of Rio and Brazil. Worth a look if you are interested in slum life in Rio.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Just when we thought the Caral-Supe ruins of Caral near Barranca on the coast of central Peru north of Lima were the oldest ruins in Peru and the Americas, something new is discovered.
The 5,500 year old set of ruins, 206 miles northwest of Lima in the Andean foothills, was not recently discovered, but new excavations revealed hidden layers buried in the earth. Previous carbon dating showed the site to be 3,000-3,500 years old.
The Sechin Bajo archaeological complex has been being excavated by a team of German and Peruvian archeologists since 1992. Similarly to Caral, Sechin Bajo holds a circular, sunken plaza, built of stones and adobe. The main plaza is belived to be a ceremonial space.
In an adjacent structure, built around 1800 B.C., archeologists uncovered a two meter high 3,600-year-old adobe frieze depicting the iconic image of a human sacrificer standing with open arms, holding a ritual knife in one hand and a human head in the other, an image also found in the Moche Lord of Sipan Tombs near Trujillo.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
On Februaray 9th after two years of sitting dormant, Ecuador's 5,029 meter (16,575 foot) Tungurahua volcano erupted and blanketed several nearby villages in Ash. thousands have had to be evacuated from their homes surroudning the volcano, in villages of Puela and Choglontus.
Tungurahua, which means Throat of Fire in Quechua , stands proudly above a collection of 10 villages with a total population of 20,000. Ecuador's volcano lined Central Cordillera is home to the highest mountains in the country, many of them volcanoes.
This stratovolcano has been active since 1999, but major eruptions have only occured on a few occasions. When erupting, tour guides in nearby Baños are ready to take you to viewpoints for the best photos of Tungurahua volcanic cone spewing lava.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Fears of terrorism canceled this years Paris to Dakar Ralley in France and North Africa, however, the event has now been moved to Chile and Argentina for 2009. The South American nations will host the 2009 Dakar Rally between January 3-18 with Buenos Aires as the start and endpoint, organisers said this past Monday.
This years event was cancelled for the first time since it began in 1979 due to security concerns after four French tourists were murdered in Mauritania on December 24. The 2009 rally will feature 6,000km of special stages over a 9,000km-long course, details of which are set to be unveiled soon in Buenos Aires.
Given the huge dunes, the Andes, forests, lakes, pampas, and altitude, the race is going to be quite a bit different. The terrain is far more varied and dramatic than North Africa. Currently similar rallys, such as the Atacama Rally and Las Pampas Rally, are held in the countries.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
National Geographic reports that ruins uncovered in Peru's southeastern jungle are believed to be that of the legendary lost Inca city of Patiti. The city, believed to have been built by the Inca warrior Inkarri while retreating from Spanish Conquistadors, has been described as "an archaeological fortress" by the local media.
The ruins are said to cover 430,000-square-feet in an area known as Lobo Tahuantinsuyo. Historical reports describe Patiti as a stone settlement adorned with gold statues and it has long been searched for by explorers from around the world. A missionary in the year 1600 reported seeing Patiti up close, calling it a "city of gold." The location was thought to have been somewhere east of the Andes Mountains in the rain forest of southeastern Peru, southwestern Brazil, or northern Bolivia.
This is not the first account of the finding of Patiti, however. Officials from Peru's INC are expected to make a full report of the site.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The South American Explorers, then the South American Explorers' Club, began with a single simple clubhouse in Lima, Peru in 1977. Then it expanded with another in Quito, Ecuador and in the last decade new clubhouses have opened in Cusco, Peru and Buenos Aires, Argentina. This year, the non-profit organization is celebrating their 30th anniversary.
More than a clubhouse, these are tremendous resources for travelers that should be on every continent. They are a home away from home, a library, book exchange, luggage storage, trip report safehouse, and house of scholarly and not so scholarly resources. There are weekly events and lectures on culture, activities, and history in every clubhouse. Pub quizes, online forums, movies, a kitchen with free tea and coffee. If you want to know how to hike to Vilcabamba, the last Incan city, you ask them and they'll tell you how and where to find the map if they don't have one. If you want to volunteer or take a language class, ask them where and how.
If you plan on spending an extensive amount of time in South America, a membership is highly recomended (plus comes with a subscription to their excellent magazine).
For more information visit their website.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The Central Bank of Venezuela is changing Venezuela's currency from the Bolivar to the Bolivar Fuerte begining January 1, 2008. In the redomination process, 1,000 Bolivars will become 1 Bolivar Fuerte. Simply, the zeros are eliminated.
Coins will be created in the following denominations: 1; 0.50; 0.25; 0.125; 0.10; 0.05; 0.01.
Banknotes will be printed in the following denominations: 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2.
There will be a period of transition of six months in which both, the old and the new currency will coexist. After this transition period, currency exchange will continue as long as necessary, so that people could change old currency for new currency at financial institutions.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Luxury hotels are being constructed in Peru like never before. Here's what is in store for 2008:
- Casa Andina is also rapidly expanding their Private Collection hotels, which are quite stunning, around Peru and new locations in Lima and Arequipa are set to open in January.
- In March, Inkaterra is also opening a hotel in a restored colonial mansion in Barranco (district of Lima south of Miraflores) with lots of Old World charm that in my opinion will be likely be the most stylish hotel ever built in Lima. Inkaterra will also open a Puno location in November and a Cusco location in December that you could easily add to the list.
- Orient Express is also set to open a lodge in Colca Canyon early next year.
- Midrange company EcoInn is opening hotels in Cusco, Lima, Colca Canyon, Puna, and the Sacred Valley
- Affiliates of Marriot and Hilton chains are set to open hotels in Cusco.
- Vague plans are underway to begin building hotels directly on Lima's Costa Verde (before only hotels were built on cliffs above the beach).
Outside of hotels, expect even more interest in the culinary scene with new food tours and restaurants, more diverse Inka Trail treks utilizing luxury lodges on other routes; the reconstruction of Pisco, Ica, and Chincha, and much, much more.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
We all know that this website is beyond compare, however, there are several others that will help you gain a significant understanding on travel in South America:
AndeanTravelWeb.com: Pretty basic, but the ATW is filled with info on hotels, tour operators, hikes, and other bits on travel in the Andes.
BrazilMax.com: Beautifully designed site from an expat writer with articles, hotel listings and bookings, music, and much more.
Equadorial - Feature Articles on traveling in Ecuador.
Living in Peru - Daily news in Peru translated into English, as well as articles, bulletin boards, and other listings.
Perublog.com - Articles, columns, and loads of information on Peru from a well known guidebook writer and photographer.
Planeta - Ron Mader's site on ecologically friendly tourism has loads of info on Latin America.
South American Explorer's - A bulletin board, online store, trip reports, country specific info, and other excellent resources are availiables to members of this virtual clubhouse.
Viajeros y Vagamundos - Blog of Peruvian journalist Jorge Riveros Cayo.
Venezuela Voyager - Info on Venezuela written by guidebook writer Dominic Hamilton.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
American Citizens traveling in bolivia will need to adhere to these new requirements:
Begining December 1st, no longer is just a passport sufficient. American citizens must obtain an entry visa.
Things you need to obtain your Bolivian Visa:
1. Visa application form (affidavit). The form can be requested from consulates or downloaded from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs’ website ( www.rree.gov.bo)
2. Valid passport
3. Hotel reservation and/or invitation letter
4. Photocopy of roundtrip ticket and/or travel itinerary
5. Economic solvency attested by credit card or equivalent document, valid for the duration of travel
6. Photocopy of international certificate of yellow fever vaccination
7. Pay a visa fee of $100
Once the application is received by the Consul, Consular Agent, or immigration officer, the requirements will be verified; in case of compliance, he/she will issue the visa for a period of 90 days and will affix the corresponding visa. In case the application is denied, the officer will return the documents to the applicant. Any expense incurred for the issuance of the visa will be paid by the applicant.
Pursuant to Bolivian constitutional principles, individuals born in Bolivia who have subsequently acquired U.S. citizenship will not be required to obtain a visa to enter Bolivia, provided that they present proof of their nationality of origin by means of appropriate documentation.
Any questions? Consult the Bolivian Embassy in Washington or your nearest Bolivian Consulate (see http://www.bolivia-usa.org/ for contact information).
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Lucho Hurtado is one of the most significant figures in Peruvian tourism today. He isn’t in Cusco and he isn’t even in Lima. He is in Huancayo in Peru’s Central Andes.
His tour company has single handedly revolutionized tourism in Central Peru and made a region with practically no tourist infrastructure become one of the most tourist friendly and fascinating places in the country.
Peru has dozens of major regions that all have fascinating sights, great hotels, and once in a lifetime tour opportunities, but most are centered around travels to Cusco and Machu Picchu, and to some extent the Amazon, Lake Titicaca, and Lima. The North Coast, Central Jungle, Northern Andes, and other locations see very few tourists, but slowly international visitors are beginning to look around the country for new locations after they come on their second or third trip to Peru.
Lucho and Incas del Peru have proven that with the right kind and focused effort, tourists will come. They have been instrumental in ethno tourism in Peru where guests can learn craft making from villagers in the Mantaro Valley, study Spanish and Quechua in homestays, and helping to get the world’s highest railway running again.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The new movie adaptation of Colombian Nobel Prize winner Gabriel Garcia Marquez's Love in the Time of Cholera was shot in Colombia, further confirming security issues are becoming much more secure. Originally filming was set to take place in Brazil, but the Colombian Vice-President assured producers that they could gurantee their safety and city police and marines were sent to secure every shoot. This follows my blog last week on reports of Colombia's flourishing tourist draw.
The R-rated, English language film, directed by Mike Newell, stars Benjamin Bratt, Giovanna Mezzogiorno, Javier Bardem, John Leguizamo, Laura Harring, Catalina Sandino Moreno, and Hector Elizondo, is set to release in North America on Novemebr 16. The story describes a 52-year love triangle in the late 19th/early 20th century in various parts of Colombia.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Few people realize the tourist potential of Colombia. They are too concerned with the bad taste in their mouth left by the 1980's and 90's. I spent a month there a few years ago and could have spent another six and not seen everything. There are beautiful colonial cities, ancient ruins, trekking, the best birdwatching on the planet, excellent musuems like the Gold Museum, a cathedral made of Salt, an extensive Amazon region, and posh large cities. Finally the world is catching on and taking notice.
Foreign tourist visits are up from a half-million four years ago to 1.2 million now. Kidnappings have dropped by half and never really had something to do with tourists anyway. The US state departments warning, which has flat out stated not to go to Colombia, now says that "although rural areas remain "extremely dangerous," violence has decreased "markedly" in urban areas, including Bogotá and Cartagena."
Major cruise ships are docking in Cartagena, Santa Marta, and San Andrés Island. During the 2006-07 season (September to May) saw 50 port calls, while 2008 expects more than 200 with Royal Caribbean who had left for the past five years to This season, cruise lines will make 200 stops. Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, which returned to Cartagena in April after a five-year hiatus, will make 43 calls in the next year among its three brands. Princess and Holland America lines also are stopping.
USA Today is reporting that Bogotá will add 7,000 three- to five-star hotel rooms in the next three years, anew luxury ecotourism venture in Tayrona National Park is drawing high end tourists, coffee tourism south of Bogota is booming.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Celebrations throughout Latin America mark the 40th Anniversary of the death of Argentine Revolutionary Ernesto 'Che' Guevara. the image of his beret and bearded face is one of the most reproduced images in the world and can be found on t-shirts, buttons, the sides of buses and posters throughout Latin America.
Fidel Castro, who was a close friend of Guevara, honored him in Cuba as an "exceptional combatant" and invited many of the Argentine guerrilla's relatives to attend. A similar ceremony was held in Vallegrande, Bolivia 280 miles southeast of La Paz, where the revolutionary's remains were secretly buried for nearly three decades before they were discovered and returned to Cuba.
Guevara preached the Marxist gospel to the poor and neglected and spawned guerilla movements in Cuba, El Salvador, Bolivia, and was an inspiration throughout the region. Guevara was captured and killed when hiding in Bolivia by a group supported by the CIA. He remains a controversial figures for his outspoken views, strong support of Communism, and dislike of the United States. He played a significant role in purge trials and executions of hundreds of police and army officials accused of torturing and killing opponents while Batista was in power, making him severly disliked by exhiled Cubans.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The Inca Citadel of Machu Picchu is seeing record breaking numbers of visitors to the site after it was named a New 7 Wonder. In 2007 alone more than 850,000 people are expected to visit Cusco and make the trip to Machu Picchu. Jean Paul Benavente, the Regional Director for Foreign Trade and Tourism, stated that the number is an astounding fifteen percent increase from the year before. By 2009 Cusco and Machu Picchu are expected to attract more than a million visitors each year.
Read more about Cusco:
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The fight over artifacts that American explorer Hiram Bingham found and brought back with him to Yale University in the US after "discovering" the lost Inca city of Machu Picchu (local farmers already knew of the site and lead Bingham there). This has been a very long fight in the international media for decades now that has had the Peruvian government outraged as the artifacts were seemingly taken without permission.
More than four thousand artifacts ranging from bones to ceramics to mummies are set to be returned to Peru, who has argued that Bingham has never had permission to take the artifacts. In an agreement between Yale and Peru, a new A Museum and Research Center is to be built in Cusco, Peru that will be run under the guidance of Yale. Yale and Peru will co-sponsor first a traveling expedition featuring Bingham's pieces. Dates and locations have yet to be announced.
Machu Picchu was named this July as one of the New 7 Wonders of the World and is considered one of, if not the top destnation for travelers on the South America continent.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The August earthquake in southern Peru caused extensive damage to the infrastructure of the region and many rural towns are still living in squalor. Much more help is needed. Here is a short list of places that can help:
Red Cross
In the US, you can call:
1-800-RED CROSS or 1-800-257-7575 in Spanish.
You can also donate via Internet:
Specify: Peru Earthquake
You can also purchase goods through the Peruvian grocery chain Wong online that will get to the people of the Ica region. Just enter www.ewong.com web page and register your email, you will immediately get a password in your email. Once you have this password, go ahead and shop, they even have facilitated a list of non-perishable goods. Wong will charge your credit card using Verified by Visa and will deliver the goods to the proper destination.
Blood donations can be made at these centers in Peru:
Ministry of Health (MINSA) Hospitals Dos de Mayo, Loayza etc
ESSALUD Hospitals Rebagliatti, Almenara, Sabogal, etc
FF.AA. (Air Force) and PNP (National Police)
Hospitals Militar, Marina, FAP and Policía
Hospital de la Solidaridad Plaza de Armas
Posted by Nicholas Gill
This July, guidebook publisher Lonely Planet began their Pick & Mix, a new travel guide product that enables travellers to select and purchase individual chapters from their wide range of titles, starting with their Latin American titles. There are more than 350 chapters available spanning 35 guides including destination guides, phrasebooks, and trekking guides. The chapters feature the exact same content as the guidebook, and can be downloaded to various devices.
The chapters range in price from $2 to $4 and you get a discount when purchasing multiple chapters. You can try Pick & Mix for free by downloading the Planning chapter from each book, which includes the Getting Started, Snapshots and Itineraries sections. All Pick & Mix chapters are available in the Buy by Chapter section of the Lonely Planet online shop at shop.lonelyplanet.com.
The beauty of this is that you can just print out the chapters that you need or simply look at them on your Ipod (via dropping the files in your notes folder) or PDA. You won't have to lug around the entire guidebook if it isn't necessary. This is particularly convenient with the trekking guides where every ounce of weight in your pack tends to be important. You can just print out the map and info on the trek your taking and leave room for essentials, such as food and warm clothes. Trekking in the Central Andes is particulalrly recommended by the way.
More chapters from other guides from other parts of the globe are expected to be released in the near future.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
On Wednesday August 14, an 8.0 magnitude earthquake, the largest to hit Peru in decades struck coastal Peru and sent tsunami fears racing around the Pacific Rim. The earthquake centered in the coastal desert south of Lima, near the town of Pisco. At the time of writing more than 500 have died in Pisco and nearby Ica as buidlings collapsed, although the death toll is expected to rise.
How Earthquake Damage will Affect Travel in Peru:
Obviously visiting Pisco or Chincha Alta are out until rebuilding occurs and the debris is cleared. The islas Ballestas, the nature reserve just off shore from Pisco probably is ok, however, resources such as boats are likely being used to help earthquake victims. The town of Ica has significant damage in the center, however, the oasis of Huacachina and the vineyards appear to be ok although there is little information come out of this area. I would suggest calling your hotel or travel agent before visiting. The coastal highway, the Pan-americana, has been damaged significantly. Driving south from Lima to this area may be impossible at this time. If going to Arequipa, Puno, or Cusco, it is best to go by plane rather than by bus at this point.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Many Latin American countries are embraciing Medical Tourism as more and more Westerners learn that they can travel to these countries, have their surgery, and save significant amounts of money. travelers can get the same qualified surgeon performing the exact same operation and same orthopedic treatment as anywhere in the United States but at half the price, including airfare and hotels. For instance, a coronary bypass surgery that costs $60,000 in Miami costs just $30,000 in Panama, while a breast implant that's $12,000 in the U.S. is done in Panama for $6,000. Prices tend to be even lower in South American nations.
Medical Tourism is increasing rapidly in Latin American countries, particularly Colombia, Panama, Costa Rica, Mexico, Argentina, and Chile. Andrés Oppenheimer, a Latin America correspondent for the Miami Herald, believes that medical tourism will be one of Latin America's biggest industries in the 21st century.
At present Costa Rica recieves 150,000 medical tourists every year, that's well below Thailand who recives more than 400,000, but the munber is growing. Many American doctors are from outside the US and more than 60% have studied outside the US, so there is a natural trust factor. Most of the patients are Americans who cannot afford insurance or Canadians who do not want to wait 8 months for a surgery to be performed.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Lima's 11th annual Latin American Film Festival runs until August 11th, so if you find yourself in Lima be sure to check ou the action. The event is organized by the Catholic University's Cultural Center and dozens of feature films and documentaries (in Spanish) will be shown.
Films in the competition hail from Argentina, Cuba, Mexico, Brazil, Peru, Chile, Colombia, Canada, and France. The expected highlights: Calle Santa Fe (Chile), Santiago (Brazil), Luz Silenciosa (Mexico), Una Sombra al Frente (Peru), and El Ano que Mis Padres se fueron de Vacaciones (Brazil).
Venues for the Latin American Film Festival:
Cineplanet Alcazar
Catolica's cultural center
Alianza Francesa
Centro de la Imagen
Centro Cultural Espana, Plaza Washington
Cine Metro, Plaza San Martin, Lima
San Isidro Municipal Audtorium
Centro Cultural Ricardo Palma
CAFAE
Centro Cultural La Noche
View the full program at the Cultural Center's website.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Both Peru's Machu Picchu and Brazil's Christ the Redeemer Statue were named to the new list of the seven world wonders in Lisbon, Portugal's Estadio da Luz on 7/7/07. The global vote was heavily promoted by both the Peruvian and Brazilian tourism divisions, which may explain why other sites were not on the final list. For instance, the city of Cusco set up 50 internet stands with high broadband connections for people to cast their vote while models walking around the Plaza de Armas encouraged them. Many andean people who had never used a computer before cast their vote.
The naming of the two sites to the list is sure to be a heavy draw to tourism in both countries. Parties occured in Cusco, Peru and Rio de Janeiro, Brazil to celebrate the announcement.
Left off the list was the other South american landmark, the statues of Easter Island. Other monuments on the list included: Rome's Colisseum, India's Taj Mahal, China's Great Wall, Mexico's Chichén Itzá, and Jordan's Petra.
It was said that over a hundred million votes were cast to name the New 7 Wonders. The contest was broadcast to over 170 countries and is estimated to have had a viewing audience of 1.6 million. A new global list is being created to help determine the new 7 Natural wonders of the world. Visit: www.natural7wonders.com for more information.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Actress Cameron Diaz is in Cusco, Peru to celebrate Peruvian culture for the MTV Canada television series "4 Real." Many people and tourists have been extremely pleased she has brough attention to their city and seemed to enjoy the sites.
Although there is always room for a goof. She caused quite a stir when she carried a bag with a Maoist Red Star symbol and Chinese writing that said "Serve the People," a quote from Chinese Communist leader Mao Zedong. Typically no one would care about this, except that Peru was and still is home to the Maoist guerillas Sendero Luminoso, or the Shining Path which raged a guerilla war from the Andes in the 80's and 90's brought about massacres, assassinations, and bombings. In the end nearly 70,000 were killed and the threat of Shining Path remains very real as isolated attacks still occur.
The actress has apologized profusely and said that carrying the bag was not her intent and that she never meant to cause any harm. She bought the bag as a tourist in China she said, and let's face it, had no idea what it meant. Some were offended although, I think everyone realized it was an honest mistake.
Whether this caused her to skip out on the Inti Raymi festival, which Microsoft founder Bill Gates went to, I cannot say.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Peru Rail has once again raised prices for train tickets to Machu Picchu from Cusco and the Sacred Valley. The return from Cusco to Aguas Calientes in backpacker class is now $73 (one way US$46) and the return from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes is now US$47 (one way US$34). The increase occured because of increase demand to one of the worlds great landmarks.
As a general note it would be wise to buy rail tickets months in advance, particulalrly if you are traveling during the busy season (April-September). Call Peru Rail (tel: 238-722), visit the main Wanchaq station in Av. Pachacutec in Cusco, or visit their website: www.perurail.com.
Also, if you haven't voted for Machu Picchu yet in the New 7 Wonders contest, do so now as voting ends on July 7, 2007. Go here to cast your free vote: www.new7wonders.com/index.php?id=315
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Inti Raymi, or the Festival of the Sun, takes place June 24 at the Sacsaywaman fort/ruins.
The all day event, which marks the Winter Solstice, is well scripted and includes the sacrifice of two llamas (staged). An actor will play the Inca ruler who will tell the authorities in Cusco’s main square to govern well and at dusk announces the end of the day’s ceremonies and a party starts.
You can buy tickets for reserved seats through any tourist agency in Cusco, although you are welcome to sit on the lawn with the locals for free. Hotel reservations should be made months in advance.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Peru's premier Pisco Party will be held at the Museo de la Nación (National Museum) from June 14th to June 17th and will feature music, tastings, and a beauty pageant. More than 40 distilleries form across the country are expected to exhibit their products.
Pisco is a clear, fermented, grape brandy is the national liquor of Peru and the main ingredient of its national cocktail, the Pisco Sour.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Princess Cruise Lines recently announced that one of their new cruise routes will travel a good part of the Amazon river from the point where the river empties into the Atlantic to the largest city on its banks, Manaus. The trip either begins or ends in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, lasting 2 full weeks with stops in the Caribbean and South America. Apart from Manaus, stops on the Amazon river will include Santarem, Boca de Valeria, Parintins, which all found within Brazil.
Princess Cruise lines also has one of the larger selectons of South America trips including the Pacific coast, Atlantic coast, and even Antarctic trips which leave roundtrip from Buenos Aires and also stop in the Falkland Islands.
For more information visit: www.princess.com
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Two South American highligths are likely to win. With more than 40 million votes in the contest thus far and only a few months remaining, both Peru's Incan citadel of Machu Picchu and Chile/Easter Island's statues, or moais, are among the top ten vote getters in the New Seven World Wonders contest, only 7 will make the final list. The prize is not just the list, however, millions in tourist revenue are expected to benefit the winning countries. The winners will be announced July 7 in Lisbon, Portugal.
If you still haven't voted, visit: www.new7wonders.com
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Spirit airlines began selling low fare flights between Lima, Peru and Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. The dialy flights are the cheapest I've ever seen. If you book before midnight tonight (May 4) you can find fares for as low as 8 cents!!! each way. I've checked and with taxes you can go for roundtrip of $80. Mon-Thur travel until mid-November is cheapest, although fares will likely sell out quickly. I booked a trip in November for under $245 roundtrip.
To book, visit: www.spiritair.com
Posted by Nicholas Gill
For anyone interested in very adventurous horseriding tours in Argentina. I mean things you don't read about in the guidebooks. These tours can last days or even weeks, accomdating just a few tourists at a time as you move across Argentina, cmaping and cook each night. Usually the tours originate in Salta. A personal friend of mine, the German Martina Schroeter, who ran tours in Germany for many years and speaks great English, is helping with the trips. the horses are in great condition and are treated as they should be, which is something that isn't always true in many South american locations.
Check out their website (www.horseridingwheeler.com.ar
) or call: 54 387 154652331 for more info.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
On the news here in Lima last night I saw a report on these street talk shows that are taking place on occasion in the port city of Callao, Peru near Lima. Apparently, wannabe talk show hosts are gathering guests, setting up chairs, and promoting these events taht take place in the middle of some of Lima's most dangerous streets. The shows are very Jerry Springer-esque and generally pit one woman against another after one finds the other cheating. then they start fighting and everyone goes crazy. It's all loosely scripted and sometimes even 'supposed' audience members, actually 'actors' in a very general sense of the word, get a cut of the donations for getting involved. The report said the host can make about 200 soles per show, or about $60, which isn't bad at all in this area.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Javier Wong is one of the most famous chefs in Lima, however, unless you have the exact address you won't know where to go. His restaurant, called Sankuay (but nicknamed and better known as Chez Wong) has no sign and the door is closed at all times. It's in an informal house setting in not the greatest part of Lima.
There are no menus here. wong takes one look at you and tells you what you what you will be having. It is based on what is fresh and generally consists of an entrada and a main plate. On my visit the entrada was a ceviche with octopus and lenguado (with lots of pepper which is unusual). The main plate was a saltado (stir fry) with fish that seemingly melted in your mouth.
Adress: Garcia Leon 114 (between block 3 and 4 of Av. Canada,) Santa Catalina, La Victoria, Tel: (011) (51-1) 470-6217
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Sometimes I'm just sick of local foods when traveling in South America. I mean I do like Andean food, but when you have it three times a day, sometimes you just want something that reminds you of home. A huge burrito like at Chipotle, Moe's or Qdoba is sometimes on my ind and I just so happened to find one in Cuenca. American Danny Root opened the place recently and it has been attracting quite a few locals and foreigners such as myself. It's a small place, themed after Pancho Villa and has a few Ecuadorian influences on the menu. I recomend it if you happen to visit Cuenca. The address is: Calle Larga y Hermano Miguel. It's just a few blocks south of the plaza.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Adventure Guide Peru, my long awaited guidebook on Peru has finally been released an is availiable at Barnes and Noble bookstores, through Amazon (www.amazon.com/Adventure-Guide-Peru-Guides/dp/1588435938), or through Hunter Publishings website (www.hunterpublishing.com/templates/bookdetail.cfm?bookid=1-58843-593-8).
The book is the culmination of nearly 2 years of research and includes photos, stories, and all background information you could possibly want on travel in Peru. It's geared toward adventure travelers, in other words it details how to have the best possible adventure in the country, no matter your budget. It describes dirt cheap and rough travel on Amazonian rivers to staying in luxurious hotels built on top of Inca palaces. Background information is very complete, unlike other guides that just list bus schedules to out of the way towns that no one visits. At 592 pages it is the largest guide on the country, well, that I know of. If anyone gets a copy please let me know what you think.
Also, I'll be living in Peru until after my wedding here in May, so if anyone needs any up to the moment advice just let me know.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
It was such an easy idea the Churrasco Palta, but I never thought of it before. In Chile combining Churrasco (steak) and Palta (advocado) in sandwich form is normal, I just never had it before this past month. Now I can't stop eating it, particulalrly when I can put on a wee bit of Aji chileno (Chilean hot sauce). They have this whole 50's diner culture in Chile where hamburgers, hot dogs (called completos with mayo, advocado, and other condiments), and all sorts of sandwich varieties can be found and are generally the cheapest places you can eat.
By the way, my first favorite sandwich is the Buffalo Chicken (with Blue Cheese, not ranch), which I can't even seeing being replaced. Sadly, when I'm in Lima the only place I can find it is at Hooters at the Larcomar shopping center.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Hey everyone,
I'm updating the new Insight Guide: Ecuador and writing a new book for Thomas Cook, entitled Traveller's Chile, so I'm off in those two countries for the next little while and will then be back in Peru until May or June. I already have lots of new article ideas, hotels and restaurants to recomend, and a number of other exciting things going on in the continent to share with you. Expecting new details in the coming days.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Begining this March, American citizens traveling to Bolivia will require a visa. Bolivian President Evo Morales said the decision was an issue of reciprocity because the United States requires Bolivian tourists to apply for a visa. Many believe that the act will cause the already impoverished country to lose millions in tourist revenue, but Morales is defiant.
The visas would be issued by Bolivia's 13 consulates in the United States, and Bolivia is taking suggestions from the U.S. Embassy in La Paz so the new requirement can be implemented efficiently, No word on any cost of the visa.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Machu Picchu has done it. Any intelligent person knew it could and should anyway, but finally the rest of the world has stepped up and followed. The ancient Inca ruin has made the list to be in the running for the next Seven Wonders of the World.
The global vote, which began in 1999, has accumulated 20 million hits. The list has been narrowed to 21 locations from an original 200. The public votes only counted during the inital phase of voting, however. A penl of architecural experts has narrowed the list. The final decision on July 7, 2007, in Lisbon, Portugal.
Machu Picchu is thought to be one of the favorites. Other South America nominations include Brazil's Christ the Redeemer statue and Easter Island.
You can vote online at www.new7wonders.com/index.php
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Air Madrid has ceased operations in Latin America. The Spanish Ministry for Development and Economy threatened to revoke its license after the airline not complying with prior plans to avoid long delays on its Latin American flights which at times were as much as 24 hours and poilce were needed to calm protests.
The low cost carrier has flights going to Ecuador, Colombia, Argentina, Chile, Panama, Costa Rica, Brazil, Mexico and Peru. There is talk of the airline getting the OK fairly soon if they can get their act together quickly, but for the time being all flights are suspended.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Roger Waters of Pink Floyd fame is bringing his Dark Side of the Moon tour to South America. He scheduled to appear in Lima on March 12th, in what could be the biggest concert event in Peru in decades. He will also appear in Bogota on March 9, Santiago March 14, and Buenos Aires 17.
Waters is set to perform songs from a number of his solo albums, as well as Pink Floyd hits. However, most will go for the 1 hour and 15 minute complete set of the Dark Side of the Moon album. Tickets are on sale this December.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Everyone is talking about how Mel Gibson's Apocalypto used the Mayan language in the film, but it isn't the first time a director has done so. I just watched the fim End of the Spear (2005) the other day. It's about a remote and violent tribe (the Waodani) in the Ecuadorian Amazon and their storied interactions with a group of missionaries over a period of decades.
It's an Indie film, based on a true story, and uses native actors in many cases as well. The Wao Tededo language is used throughout the movie, sprinkled with some English and Spanish. It's a language that barely lives on and is spoken by very few people much like many of the Amazonian dialects. Most of the languages are not written and therefore have faded away into oblivion. Just a few remain in very isolated parts of the jungle.
It's not a bad movie at all and although the messages of Christianity are a bit much at times, it is no where near some of the books of the incidents are. There is some beautiful scenery and you get a good glimpse into tribal life.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Brazil is the world's largest coffee growing nation and Seattle based coffee chain Starbucks is hoping to reenact the success it had in Mexico, opening more than 100 stores in a few short years. They have just opened their second store in Sao Paolo, and many more are in the works.
The coffee chain already has locations throughout South america from Peru to Chile. Coffee consumption is much higher in Brazil however, and the country already has many small, independent coffee shops where Brazilians drink espresso at all hours of the day. The country is home to the continent's largest population and economy and a key expansion for the chain.
Brazilian touches will be added to the menu, including Brazilian cheese bread and muffins made of arugula, mozzarela, and tomatos.
Brazil is the 38th country in the Starbucks limeup. Colombia, Argentina, and locations in Central America are being considered next.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Ok, Brazil can be dangerous we get it. But what is this about? I'm curious what Brazil's tourist board thinks of this. Ok, here's the plot: Six american college students backpack around Brazil and eventually get held hostage by a angry rebel group. figures.
It's like Hostel, but in the Amazon. I'll probably go see it just because I'm curious, but I don't expect much.
The movie comes out December 1st. You can visit the myspace page of the movie to see the trailer: www.myspace.com/turistasmovie
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Everyone, you can thank reader Miguel for providing this link to a satelitel map of the Three borders region of Argentina, Paraguay, and Brazil which has detailed POV's for everything from hotels, restaurants, airports, bridges, even Iguacu Falls.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
My long awaited guidebook, Adventure Guide Peru (Hunter Publishing) should be released this January. You can buy signed copies at my website for $30 when it is released, or pre-order the book now through Amazon: www.amazon.com/Adventure-Guide-Peru-Guides/dp/1588435938
Getting off the subject of South american travel and moving to Europe, I have a story featured in the book Spain from a Backpack entitled "Starry, Starry Night."
For purchase you can contact me through my website where I will have signed copies availiable for $25 each, or go to the publisher's site: www.europebackpack.com.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Here it is:
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Here's a post from CNN that once again highlights Peru's blossoming culinary scene:
www.cnn.com/2006/TRAVEL/DESTINATIONS/10/17/peru.fusion.ap/index.html
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Reserachers form the bird watching /conservation group ProAves found the new bright yellow and red-crowned Yariguies brush-finch in a remote eastern region of Colombia's eastern Andean Cloud Forest.
The find has spurred the Colombian government to set aside 500 acres to create a national park in the unspoiled part if the country. Many more species of flora and fauna are expected in this region, although thick jungle and steep mountains prevent most from making the long hike.
Only 2 or 3 bird species are found a year in the world. Colombia has the world's most diverse bird population.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Mummies from the Chachapoyan culture, also known as the cloud people, were found in an underground burial vault this week near Chachapoyas in Peru.
Read this article in The Independent for more info:
http://news.independent.co.uk/world/americas/article1816823.ece
Posted by Nicholas Gill
This is a re-posting of the SAE Buenos Aires Clubhouse newsletter:
Volunteers are needed for a food collection project in Buenos Aires City and Province this Saturday!! You can choose one (or more!) of these times: 9:30-12:30 12:30-15:30 15:30-18:30 18:00-21:00 And one of these places (which are all Carrefours): Mataderos. Av. Gral Paz 12950 Warnes. Av. Warnes 2707 Adroguè. Av. H. Yrigoyen 13500 Ituzaingò. Av. Intendente Coronel Ratti 1860 Moreno. Colectora Gaona y Puente Graham Bell Moron Av. Vergara 1900. To get in touch with Banco de Alimento is very easy, just call 4724 2334 and ask for Estela Santucci or e-mail her esantucci@bancodealimentos.org.ar
She can speak English and she will help you to find out where you can go and volunteer for a day!
P.S. To know more about the organization visit the website:
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The great Pumpkin is gone. No more Halloween in Venezuela according to it's president Hugo Chavez. Read this BBC piece for more info: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/americas/4391166.stm
Posted by Nicholas Gill
A few weeks ago I sent a nice letter to the Travel organizations of every South American country requesting information about their country. I wanted to announce that the very first has responded which conveniently the country I have been writing about the past few weeks: Venezuela. They sent along a bi-lingual guide, DVD, and some maps and promotional material for their National Parks. This was exactly what I wanted and I highly appreciate it. If you work for a government travel organization, travel agency, or publisher of promotional material contact me. Any books, magazines, music CD's, etc will be reviewed.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Forty dogs were found buried in blankets with food next to their human masters in a tomb from the Chirbaya civilization.
For more information, read this BBC story:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/em/fr/-/2/hi/americas/5374748.stm
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Intratours (www.intratours.com) is one of the best online travel agencies to find flights to Latin America, one ways included.
They have a convenient search engine as well. So, almost the entire purchase can be finished online. Almost. One flaw is that you need to fax information for the final purchase, but that's very minor if it saves you a ton of money.
I bought a one way from Columbus, Ohio to Mexico City, not a very commo route and found a ticket for $110. Very impressive. I have seen great deals on trips to Peru and Brazil as well.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Brazil's government is now claiming that the destruction of the Amazon rainforest is declining. Yea, probably because they ahve already cut half of it down. There were 6,500 square miles lost last year due to farmers clearing the forests for soybean farms. This number decreased by 11% from the year before. It is estimated that 1.6 million square miles of Brazil's rainforest area has already been destroyed. That's one third of the largest rainforest on earth.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Peru's northern coastal city, famous for Moche ruins such as Chan Chan, Huanchaco beach, Pasofino horses, and the marinera dance celebrates its Festival de Primavera, or Spring Festival very soon. The festival runs from October 7-16 and there are parades, dances, contests, pageants, and a celebration of all things Trujilliano. For more information visit: www.festivaldeprimavera.org.pe
Posted by Nicholas Gill
LA 73: Avenue El Sol Oueste 175, Barranco, 51-1-247-0780
A small trendy location in the heart of Barranco is another hidden gem in Lima's dining scene. Late nights it's all bar, but the rest of the time it is a quaint café with an outdoor patio serving pastas, sandwiches, and appetizers with creative flair that has rarely been seen in Lima. Nothing is too over the top. It remains simple but opts for fresh ingredients and only gets adventurous in a few places on the menu.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Said to be worth about $2 million and it's beauty and rareness is said to be comparable to the Mona Lisa, a gold Mochica headress from about 700 AD was recovered by authorities in London last week.
It was recovered in a cabinet of a London Law firm. A ceremony at Scotland Yard on August 29 will hand the piece over to the Peruvian authorities.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Ecuador's Tungurahua volcano erupted last week cause mild destruction and evacuating many people and even more livestock from the area.
Five thousand people were evacuated from nearby villages. One was killed and many others injured. Many houses in the area were destroyed as well.
Tungurahua is about 80 miles south of Quito.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
A while back I wrote an article on sea travel from Cartegena to Panama. There's one thing that I had that made that journey bearable: Stugeron. This sea-sickness prevention pill allowed me to be the only person out of 5 on the voyage that wasn't captain or crew that was not sick. I could still eat my lunch and was even able to drink the occasional beer while everyone else was green in the face. The pill is not available in the US, but is in Panama or Colombia.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Astrid y Gaston - (Cantuarias 175,444-1496, www.astridygaston.com) This Miraflores restaurant has long been the gem of Peru's dining scene and now has a total of five restaurants spread around the continent. Ingredients are fresh and gathered from across the country. Acurio, although I imagine is never there, styles up classic Peruvian dishes to modern standards and international tastes. Flashier restaurants with higher prices and international chefs have since appeared on the scene, but for contemporary Peruvian food this place is still an excellent choice.
La Cala - (Costa Verde) This restaurant/bar aims at attracting a high class crowd that likes to see and be seen. As soon as you walk in the door you are not asked for your reservation one time, but three times to the point it is insulting. The tables are so close to one another that the waiters have to run into the backs of every person. The food is reasonably priced, adventurous, but otherwide bland. Although I don't like this restaurant very much at all, I do applaud it for it's location on the Costa Verde....meaning right off the beach in Lima. The area has long been ignored for restaurants and all other activites but more and more construction is going that could soon make the Costa Verde sparkle as it should. Now if someone could just clean the water up.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
My fiancé and I were walking around Cusco and noticed a particularly high number of homeless people around. We researched a bit if there were any facilities for the homeless in the area but could not find any. We know there are places for children, but not for adults. We bought a bag of humitas from the woman in front of Gato's market (excellent!!!) and passed them out to some of the homeless, but there were still many more scattered around the city. With so many tourists coming here something could easily be done either a 1 sole tax at the airport or in restaurants or something like that. If anyone knows of any organizations to recommend in Cusco please let us know. Or if anyone wants to help start an organization in Cusco please let us know as well.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Traveling abroad and using your cell phone always brings on many questions. With Nextel(now Nextel Sprint) phones in South America it is actually quite simple. You can actually use your 2-way/chirp/whatever you call it in many places in South America and it works just as it would at home. Coverage is limited to Peru (the entire coast), Chile, Brazil, and Argentina. The charge is just 20 cents a minute (that's average; price can vary depending on your plan) on your 2-way, which means, only as you are holding the button is time used. So, your bill will never increase that much as long as you are not using your phone all day long.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Places like Scena are exactly why Lima is one of the top dining and nightlife destinations in the America's. It's a trendy yet elegant place in Miraflores (Paula Camino 280, 445-9688) that combines a small, always changing show such a cabaret singers or acrobatics (done in the center of the restaurant on ropes and swings) with food and drinks. The menu is quite diverse ranging from classic Peruvian dishes such as Lomo Saltado to international ones such as Sashimi and Risotto de Conchas Negras. The cocktail menu is comprehensive, as is the wine list, so many stay for several after dinner drinks to soak in the atmosphere. The best part of all is the price. For 4 people that had a bottle of wine, 2 cocktails each, 2 appetizers, and 4 entrees the price was under $100. Try New York and LA for the exact same fare and you would be looking at least four times that. Go to www.scena.com.pe for more info.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Lima is my personal seafood paradise with so many different restaurants paired with an abundance of fresh seafood. Here are two places I have tried this week that I've never been to before.
Segundo Muelle - This is a small chain with several locations around Lima. I went to the one on the malecon in Miraflores (Malecón Cisneros 156, www.segundomuelle.com). All are fairly well known, clean, not too expensive, and set in attractive yet simple decor. The food was so-so I thought. We had the Pique tres cebiches, which we had to send back because one of the ceiches was just too overdone. The tacu-tacu de mariscos, one of my favorite dishes, was nothing special as well. It wasn't bad, but didn't stand out.
Las Terrazas del Morocho - This place in Chorrillos (Malecón Grau 119) is from the son of the owner of the legendary cevicheria Sonia nearby. This just opened not long ago just around the corner from where I used to live. There isn't even a sign and it is very likely that I am the first gringo to ever eat there. The decor is rustic like Sonia and the view looks out onto the Pacific, a big plus. The food is outstanding. We sampled the ceviche con arroz de mariscos, jalea, and tiradito. Everything was superb and the price was absolute peanuts. If the place was open when I lived thhere, I would no doubt have gone several times a week.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The South american Explorer's Quito clubhouse holds a Pub Quiz at the Reina Victoria Pub in Quito's new town on the second Monday of every month. The event is huge with expats and travelers alike. I've never been to the quiz, but I've been to the pub and it will really feel like a home away from home for those of you who spend home much of your life at home in the pub. It is English and American owned and located at Reina Victoria 530 y Roca. Happy hour is from 5-7pm.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
So today I'm flying to Lima to spend time with my fiancé and her family. We are returning to the US in August, but since US immigration decided to add an additional form to the K-1 fiance visa while ours was being processed, she will only be able to come on her regular tourist visa and will have to return to Peru before our first wedding (one is in the US in late September, one in Peru in late January) and then back once she has her fiancé visa which is very likley to not be in time. Confused? Me too. From what our attorney tells me 10,000 other people whose forms were sent in at the same time are in the same mess. Rather then just processing them all because US immigration was late with the form, they recalled them all, jeopardizing everyone's wedding plans. We really have to cross our fingers on this one to make sure immigration does everything within reasonable time. Regardless, it is going to be close.
Anyway, I'll hopefully have some more frequent blogs on my travels in Peru in the next month or so and if I find anything new I will let everyone know.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Not to long ago I was lucky enough to se a screening of State of Fear at the Wexner Center at the Ohio State University in Columbus. The movie gives an in depth look at the years of terrorism in Peru. There is plenty of live footage, interviews, and a man angle look at how the everything happened and more importantly why it did. The reports and findings of the truth commision set to help understand the two decades of terror are all disclosed and simplified. The 95 minute film directed by Pamela Yates really shows how far the country has come.
There's also a hilarious bloppers real of media executives taking bribes from government officials that is worth the price alone. You may be able to find a screening somewhere or you can purchase the DVD from Skylight pictures (www.skylightpictures.com/film_pass_tfear.html).
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Mayor Pedro Sanchez (no, not that Pedro Sanchez) of the northern Colombian town of Aracataca, where Nobel prize winning author grew up and based the town of Macondo on in his book One Hundred Years of Solitude, proposed changing the name to Macondo. Although 90% of the voters were in favor of the change, the turnout was too low for approval. I don't think this will be the last we hear of this issue however. I wouldn't be surprised if a new vote is called in the future. The tourism draw of the small town is clearly the major issue here.
For more information on Aracataca, see the article I wrote on the town just a few weeks ago.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Just announced, my own guidebook on Peru, the Peru Adventure Guide (Hunter Publishing) will be released on September 30, ironically the same date as my marriage (although we are having two weddings...don't ask) to a Peruvian girl. As with other books in the Adventure Guide series, the book will focus on adventure activities (and in Peru there are countless). I will be in South America for several months during the rest of the year, so be sure to expect many highly interesting, entertaining, and on the spot blogs and articles.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The term gringo originated in Mexico when US military in green army jackets crossed the border. Local people didn't appreciate the gesture and kept saying "Green, go," later simplified.
Technically, it is used in Mexico to refer to those over the Rio Grande. For the rest of Latin America, it simply means someone of North American or European descent. It is not a derogatory term, although many interpret it to be. If someone calls you a gringo(a), don't take offence. None is meant by it. Just play along.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
In what became a three way tug of war between Garcia, his opponent Ollanta Humala, and Venezualan President Hugo Chavez, the Peruvian election has finally finished. Garcia, whose campaign from 1985-1990 wa plagued with high inflation, corruption, and security threats from Maoist rebels such as the Shining Path oddly enough soundly defeated Humala. Garcia has vowed to not make the same mistakes twice. Anti-American Humala, a former Army commander who once headed a failed military coup on the Fujimori government, briefly aligned himself with Chavez and Bolivian President Evo Morales, a tactic which many Peruvians saw as a threat to their democracy. In the end many saw the election as a choice between Garcia and Chavez.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
For those that are paying attention to the current election season going in in South America, they would have noticed that Colombia's president Alvaro Uribe was reelected in a landslide victory about a week ago. Uribe is credited with reopening many roads and parts of the country that were previously controlled by militant groups. The groups have eitrher disbanded or have been pushed to the very fringes of the Colombian mountains and jungles, a major step for this country that has been plagued by years and years of chaos. Those who have visted recently know that the country is as safe as any other on the continent and that this latest election only spells out increased security and mobility surrounding foreign tourists.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Generally, when you exchange money or withdrawl from an ATM you often stuck with only large bills. This becomes a problem in many South american countries where most shops don't have change. I remember going to qa market once and trying to buy an item that cost about half od a dollar and paid with a bill the size of a dollar and they didn't have changed and refused me! It is not always that extreme, but it does happen; particularly in small out of the way towns. What you can do is just use your big bills as a much as you can and always in the places that you know will have change such as supermarkets, bus stations, or upscale restaurants. Try and save the small bills for when you really need them. It will save a great deal of frustration in the long run.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Not long ago I mentioned that Huaca Cao Viejo was opening for visitors. Now they hve anounced the discovery of the tomb of a tattoed female that is unlike anything they have ever seen. This woman warrior was bured usinng elements of both male and female Moche burials, something that has never been found. There were many precious stones near her and elaborate textiles wrapped around her. The Lord of Sian, considered one of the greatest archeological finds of the past century, was found not far from here. So, this could raly be big. The June issue of National Geographic wil cover the find, so be sure to check it out.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Unless you are staying at a 4 or 5 star hotel, rarely in South America will you have hot water in your shower. Often it is advertised as hot, but it turns out to be unsatisfyingly warm. Often the case is the electric shower. A gadget new and frightnening to many. They are actually one of the surest ways to gurantee hot water in places where it seems to be non-existent although bitterly cold. The trick to them is this: turn on as little water as possible. It may only be just a small stream, but it will be hot and you can keep adjusting the level of water to whatever amount you like. Just know that the more water that comes out, the more area the heat has to cover. Careful though, some of the wiring is oftena bit loose. Prime ground for a major accident, so best touch it as little as possible. Good luck!
Posted by Nicholas Gill
El Brujo, the Trujillo (Peru) area archeological site is now set to fully open to tourists this May. Located just 40 kilometers from Trujillo, the site can be found in the district of Magdalena de Cao. The section called Cao Viejo, once opened, will make this Huaca (or tomb) near complete. I have yet to visit this particular site myself, but if it is anything like the other sites in the area I would surely not want to miss out. If you are in Trujillo and planning on exploring the archeological sites anyway, visiting Cao Viejo now would get you there before anyone else.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Peru air travel can be frustrating as flights are often delayed, canceled, or overbooked on some of the countries regional airlines. A new airline has been established that will hopefully end some of these issues. Wayra has just a few jets and operates just out of a handful of cities, but they look quite optimistic. They have a rapid expansion plan that intends to hit most major tourist cities in Peru. Visit their site (www.wayra.com.pe) for more information and updates.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The Platypus
Since this week's article was on the subject of Bogota, I have to mention the Platypus hostel in the city's Candelaria district. This is I think my favorite hostel in the world. It isn't so much that the hostel itself is luxurious or well kept, I have seen many better, but the atmosphere is like none other. An abundance of services are offered by owner German and the place attracts all sorts of international travelers, writers, photographers, artists, hip locals, volunteers, and just about anyone else. It is definitely low end in quality of lodging with most of the beds being dorm style. However, they do have apartment like accommodations nearby that are much nicer, still reasonably priced, and you can still use the facilities of the main lodge. There is no sign for the place so many don't notice it. Just look for the platypus on the door. Be sure to check out their site: http://platypusbogota.com.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
For those of you who have traveled in Ecuador and Peru, there is a good chance you visited one of the clubhouses of the South American Explorer's. the non-profit organization is the one stop place for all travel information on South America (well, besides here!!!). They have trip reports, book exchanges, internet access, libraries, expert advice, lectures, and many other services that can really help you make your trip that much more dynamic. Many of you will be happy to know that they now have another clubhouse in Buenos
Aires that just opened for operations this past March. It is still in the early stages and there is alot of work yet to be done, but if you are a traveler in Buenos Aires there isn't a better place you could ask for. Visit the South American Explorer's Website for more information: www.saexplorers.org.
