Nicholas Gill's Blog
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Air Madrid has ceased operations in Latin America. The Spanish Ministry for Development and Economy threatened to revoke its license after the airline not complying with prior plans to avoid long delays on its Latin American flights which at times were as much as 24 hours and poilce were needed to calm protests.
The low cost carrier has flights going to Ecuador, Colombia, Argentina, Chile, Panama, Costa Rica, Brazil, Mexico and Peru. There is talk of the airline getting the OK fairly soon if they can get their act together quickly, but for the time being all flights are suspended.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Roger Waters of Pink Floyd fame is bringing his Dark Side of the Moon tour to South America. He scheduled to appear in Lima on March 12th, in what could be the biggest concert event in Peru in decades. He will also appear in Bogota on March 9, Santiago March 14, and Buenos Aires 17.
Waters is set to perform songs from a number of his solo albums, as well as Pink Floyd hits. However, most will go for the 1 hour and 15 minute complete set of the Dark Side of the Moon album. Tickets are on sale this December.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Everyone is talking about how Mel Gibson's Apocalypto used the Mayan language in the film, but it isn't the first time a director has done so. I just watched the fim End of the Spear (2005) the other day. It's about a remote and violent tribe (the Waodani) in the Ecuadorian Amazon and their storied interactions with a group of missionaries over a period of decades.
It's an Indie film, based on a true story, and uses native actors in many cases as well. The Wao Tededo language is used throughout the movie, sprinkled with some English and Spanish. It's a language that barely lives on and is spoken by very few people much like many of the Amazonian dialects. Most of the languages are not written and therefore have faded away into oblivion. Just a few remain in very isolated parts of the jungle.
It's not a bad movie at all and although the messages of Christianity are a bit much at times, it is no where near some of the books of the incidents are. There is some beautiful scenery and you get a good glimpse into tribal life.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Brazil is the world's largest coffee growing nation and Seattle based coffee chain Starbucks is hoping to reenact the success it had in Mexico, opening more than 100 stores in a few short years. They have just opened their second store in Sao Paolo, and many more are in the works.
The coffee chain already has locations throughout South america from Peru to Chile. Coffee consumption is much higher in Brazil however, and the country already has many small, independent coffee shops where Brazilians drink espresso at all hours of the day. The country is home to the continent's largest population and economy and a key expansion for the chain.
Brazilian touches will be added to the menu, including Brazilian cheese bread and muffins made of arugula, mozzarela, and tomatos.
Brazil is the 38th country in the Starbucks limeup. Colombia, Argentina, and locations in Central America are being considered next.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Ok, Brazil can be dangerous we get it. But what is this about? I'm curious what Brazil's tourist board thinks of this. Ok, here's the plot: Six american college students backpack around Brazil and eventually get held hostage by a angry rebel group. figures.
It's like Hostel, but in the Amazon. I'll probably go see it just because I'm curious, but I don't expect much.
The movie comes out December 1st. You can visit the myspace page of the movie to see the trailer: www.myspace.com/turistasmovie
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Everyone, you can thank reader Miguel for providing this link to a satelitel map of the Three borders region of Argentina, Paraguay, and Brazil which has detailed POV's for everything from hotels, restaurants, airports, bridges, even Iguacu Falls.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
My long awaited guidebook, Adventure Guide Peru (Hunter Publishing) should be released this January. You can buy signed copies at my website for $30 when it is released, or pre-order the book now through Amazon: www.amazon.com/Adventure-Guide-Peru-Guides/dp/1588435938
Getting off the subject of South american travel and moving to Europe, I have a story featured in the book Spain from a Backpack entitled "Starry, Starry Night."
For purchase you can contact me through my website where I will have signed copies availiable for $25 each, or go to the publisher's site: www.europebackpack.com.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Here it is:
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Here's a post from CNN that once again highlights Peru's blossoming culinary scene:
www.cnn.com/2006/TRAVEL/DESTINATIONS/10/17/peru.fusion.ap/index.html
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Reserachers form the bird watching /conservation group ProAves found the new bright yellow and red-crowned Yariguies brush-finch in a remote eastern region of Colombia's eastern Andean Cloud Forest.
The find has spurred the Colombian government to set aside 500 acres to create a national park in the unspoiled part if the country. Many more species of flora and fauna are expected in this region, although thick jungle and steep mountains prevent most from making the long hike.
Only 2 or 3 bird species are found a year in the world. Colombia has the world's most diverse bird population.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Mummies from the Chachapoyan culture, also known as the cloud people, were found in an underground burial vault this week near Chachapoyas in Peru.
Read this article in The Independent for more info:
http://news.independent.co.uk/world/americas/article1816823.ece
Posted by Nicholas Gill
This is a re-posting of the SAE Buenos Aires Clubhouse newsletter:
Volunteers are needed for a food collection project in Buenos Aires City and Province this Saturday!! You can choose one (or more!) of these times: 9:30-12:30 12:30-15:30 15:30-18:30 18:00-21:00 And one of these places (which are all Carrefours): Mataderos. Av. Gral Paz 12950 Warnes. Av. Warnes 2707 Adroguè. Av. H. Yrigoyen 13500 Ituzaingò. Av. Intendente Coronel Ratti 1860 Moreno. Colectora Gaona y Puente Graham Bell Moron Av. Vergara 1900. To get in touch with Banco de Alimento is very easy, just call 4724 2334 and ask for Estela Santucci or e-mail her esantucci@bancodealimentos.org.ar
She can speak English and she will help you to find out where you can go and volunteer for a day!
P.S. To know more about the organization visit the website:
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The great Pumpkin is gone. No more Halloween in Venezuela according to it's president Hugo Chavez. Read this BBC piece for more info: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/americas/4391166.stm
Posted by Nicholas Gill
A few weeks ago I sent a nice letter to the Travel organizations of every South American country requesting information about their country. I wanted to announce that the very first has responded which conveniently the country I have been writing about the past few weeks: Venezuela. They sent along a bi-lingual guide, DVD, and some maps and promotional material for their National Parks. This was exactly what I wanted and I highly appreciate it. If you work for a government travel organization, travel agency, or publisher of promotional material contact me. Any books, magazines, music CD's, etc will be reviewed.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Forty dogs were found buried in blankets with food next to their human masters in a tomb from the Chirbaya civilization.
For more information, read this BBC story:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/em/fr/-/2/hi/americas/5374748.stm
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Intratours (www.intratours.com) is one of the best online travel agencies to find flights to Latin America, one ways included.
They have a convenient search engine as well. So, almost the entire purchase can be finished online. Almost. One flaw is that you need to fax information for the final purchase, but that's very minor if it saves you a ton of money.
I bought a one way from Columbus, Ohio to Mexico City, not a very commo route and found a ticket for $110. Very impressive. I have seen great deals on trips to Peru and Brazil as well.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Brazil's government is now claiming that the destruction of the Amazon rainforest is declining. Yea, probably because they ahve already cut half of it down. There were 6,500 square miles lost last year due to farmers clearing the forests for soybean farms. This number decreased by 11% from the year before. It is estimated that 1.6 million square miles of Brazil's rainforest area has already been destroyed. That's one third of the largest rainforest on earth.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Peru's northern coastal city, famous for Moche ruins such as Chan Chan, Huanchaco beach, Pasofino horses, and the marinera dance celebrates its Festival de Primavera, or Spring Festival very soon. The festival runs from October 7-16 and there are parades, dances, contests, pageants, and a celebration of all things Trujilliano. For more information visit: www.festivaldeprimavera.org.pe
Posted by Nicholas Gill
LA 73: Avenue El Sol Oueste 175, Barranco, 51-1-247-0780
A small trendy location in the heart of Barranco is another hidden gem in Lima's dining scene. Late nights it's all bar, but the rest of the time it is a quaint café with an outdoor patio serving pastas, sandwiches, and appetizers with creative flair that has rarely been seen in Lima. Nothing is too over the top. It remains simple but opts for fresh ingredients and only gets adventurous in a few places on the menu.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Said to be worth about $2 million and it's beauty and rareness is said to be comparable to the Mona Lisa, a gold Mochica headress from about 700 AD was recovered by authorities in London last week.
It was recovered in a cabinet of a London Law firm. A ceremony at Scotland Yard on August 29 will hand the piece over to the Peruvian authorities.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Ecuador's Tungurahua volcano erupted last week cause mild destruction and evacuating many people and even more livestock from the area.
Five thousand people were evacuated from nearby villages. One was killed and many others injured. Many houses in the area were destroyed as well.
Tungurahua is about 80 miles south of Quito.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
A while back I wrote an article on sea travel from Cartegena to Panama. There's one thing that I had that made that journey bearable: Stugeron. This sea-sickness prevention pill allowed me to be the only person out of 5 on the voyage that wasn't captain or crew that was not sick. I could still eat my lunch and was even able to drink the occasional beer while everyone else was green in the face. The pill is not available in the US, but is in Panama or Colombia.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Astrid y Gaston - (Cantuarias 175,444-1496, www.astridygaston.com) This Miraflores restaurant has long been the gem of Peru's dining scene and now has a total of five restaurants spread around the continent. Ingredients are fresh and gathered from across the country. Acurio, although I imagine is never there, styles up classic Peruvian dishes to modern standards and international tastes. Flashier restaurants with higher prices and international chefs have since appeared on the scene, but for contemporary Peruvian food this place is still an excellent choice.
La Cala - (Costa Verde) This restaurant/bar aims at attracting a high class crowd that likes to see and be seen. As soon as you walk in the door you are not asked for your reservation one time, but three times to the point it is insulting. The tables are so close to one another that the waiters have to run into the backs of every person. The food is reasonably priced, adventurous, but otherwide bland. Although I don't like this restaurant very much at all, I do applaud it for it's location on the Costa Verde....meaning right off the beach in Lima. The area has long been ignored for restaurants and all other activites but more and more construction is going that could soon make the Costa Verde sparkle as it should. Now if someone could just clean the water up.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
My fiancé and I were walking around Cusco and noticed a particularly high number of homeless people around. We researched a bit if there were any facilities for the homeless in the area but could not find any. We know there are places for children, but not for adults. We bought a bag of humitas from the woman in front of Gato's market (excellent!!!) and passed them out to some of the homeless, but there were still many more scattered around the city. With so many tourists coming here something could easily be done either a 1 sole tax at the airport or in restaurants or something like that. If anyone knows of any organizations to recommend in Cusco please let us know. Or if anyone wants to help start an organization in Cusco please let us know as well.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Traveling abroad and using your cell phone always brings on many questions. With Nextel(now Nextel Sprint) phones in South America it is actually quite simple. You can actually use your 2-way/chirp/whatever you call it in many places in South America and it works just as it would at home. Coverage is limited to Peru (the entire coast), Chile, Brazil, and Argentina. The charge is just 20 cents a minute (that's average; price can vary depending on your plan) on your 2-way, which means, only as you are holding the button is time used. So, your bill will never increase that much as long as you are not using your phone all day long.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Places like Scena are exactly why Lima is one of the top dining and nightlife destinations in the America's. It's a trendy yet elegant place in Miraflores (Paula Camino 280, 445-9688) that combines a small, always changing show such a cabaret singers or acrobatics (done in the center of the restaurant on ropes and swings) with food and drinks. The menu is quite diverse ranging from classic Peruvian dishes such as Lomo Saltado to international ones such as Sashimi and Risotto de Conchas Negras. The cocktail menu is comprehensive, as is the wine list, so many stay for several after dinner drinks to soak in the atmosphere. The best part of all is the price. For 4 people that had a bottle of wine, 2 cocktails each, 2 appetizers, and 4 entrees the price was under $100. Try New York and LA for the exact same fare and you would be looking at least four times that. Go to www.scena.com.pe for more info.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Lima is my personal seafood paradise with so many different restaurants paired with an abundance of fresh seafood. Here are two places I have tried this week that I've never been to before.
Segundo Muelle - This is a small chain with several locations around Lima. I went to the one on the malecon in Miraflores (Malecón Cisneros 156, www.segundomuelle.com). All are fairly well known, clean, not too expensive, and set in attractive yet simple decor. The food was so-so I thought. We had the Pique tres cebiches, which we had to send back because one of the ceiches was just too overdone. The tacu-tacu de mariscos, one of my favorite dishes, was nothing special as well. It wasn't bad, but didn't stand out.
Las Terrazas del Morocho - This place in Chorrillos (Malecón Grau 119) is from the son of the owner of the legendary cevicheria Sonia nearby. This just opened not long ago just around the corner from where I used to live. There isn't even a sign and it is very likely that I am the first gringo to ever eat there. The decor is rustic like Sonia and the view looks out onto the Pacific, a big plus. The food is outstanding. We sampled the ceviche con arroz de mariscos, jalea, and tiradito. Everything was superb and the price was absolute peanuts. If the place was open when I lived thhere, I would no doubt have gone several times a week.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The South american Explorer's Quito clubhouse holds a Pub Quiz at the Reina Victoria Pub in Quito's new town on the second Monday of every month. The event is huge with expats and travelers alike. I've never been to the quiz, but I've been to the pub and it will really feel like a home away from home for those of you who spend home much of your life at home in the pub. It is English and American owned and located at Reina Victoria 530 y Roca. Happy hour is from 5-7pm.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
So today I'm flying to Lima to spend time with my fiancé and her family. We are returning to the US in August, but since US immigration decided to add an additional form to the K-1 fiance visa while ours was being processed, she will only be able to come on her regular tourist visa and will have to return to Peru before our first wedding (one is in the US in late September, one in Peru in late January) and then back once she has her fiancé visa which is very likley to not be in time. Confused? Me too. From what our attorney tells me 10,000 other people whose forms were sent in at the same time are in the same mess. Rather then just processing them all because US immigration was late with the form, they recalled them all, jeopardizing everyone's wedding plans. We really have to cross our fingers on this one to make sure immigration does everything within reasonable time. Regardless, it is going to be close.
Anyway, I'll hopefully have some more frequent blogs on my travels in Peru in the next month or so and if I find anything new I will let everyone know.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Not to long ago I was lucky enough to se a screening of State of Fear at the Wexner Center at the Ohio State University in Columbus. The movie gives an in depth look at the years of terrorism in Peru. There is plenty of live footage, interviews, and a man angle look at how the everything happened and more importantly why it did. The reports and findings of the truth commision set to help understand the two decades of terror are all disclosed and simplified. The 95 minute film directed by Pamela Yates really shows how far the country has come.
There's also a hilarious bloppers real of media executives taking bribes from government officials that is worth the price alone. You may be able to find a screening somewhere or you can purchase the DVD from Skylight pictures (www.skylightpictures.com/film_pass_tfear.html).
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Mayor Pedro Sanchez (no, not that Pedro Sanchez) of the northern Colombian town of Aracataca, where Nobel prize winning author grew up and based the town of Macondo on in his book One Hundred Years of Solitude, proposed changing the name to Macondo. Although 90% of the voters were in favor of the change, the turnout was too low for approval. I don't think this will be the last we hear of this issue however. I wouldn't be surprised if a new vote is called in the future. The tourism draw of the small town is clearly the major issue here.
For more information on Aracataca, see the article I wrote on the town just a few weeks ago.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Just announced, my own guidebook on Peru, the Peru Adventure Guide (Hunter Publishing) will be released on September 30, ironically the same date as my marriage (although we are having two weddings...don't ask) to a Peruvian girl. As with other books in the Adventure Guide series, the book will focus on adventure activities (and in Peru there are countless). I will be in South America for several months during the rest of the year, so be sure to expect many highly interesting, entertaining, and on the spot blogs and articles.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The term gringo originated in Mexico when US military in green army jackets crossed the border. Local people didn't appreciate the gesture and kept saying "Green, go," later simplified.
Technically, it is used in Mexico to refer to those over the Rio Grande. For the rest of Latin America, it simply means someone of North American or European descent. It is not a derogatory term, although many interpret it to be. If someone calls you a gringo(a), don't take offence. None is meant by it. Just play along.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
In what became a three way tug of war between Garcia, his opponent Ollanta Humala, and Venezualan President Hugo Chavez, the Peruvian election has finally finished. Garcia, whose campaign from 1985-1990 wa plagued with high inflation, corruption, and security threats from Maoist rebels such as the Shining Path oddly enough soundly defeated Humala. Garcia has vowed to not make the same mistakes twice. Anti-American Humala, a former Army commander who once headed a failed military coup on the Fujimori government, briefly aligned himself with Chavez and Bolivian President Evo Morales, a tactic which many Peruvians saw as a threat to their democracy. In the end many saw the election as a choice between Garcia and Chavez.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
For those that are paying attention to the current election season going in in South America, they would have noticed that Colombia's president Alvaro Uribe was reelected in a landslide victory about a week ago. Uribe is credited with reopening many roads and parts of the country that were previously controlled by militant groups. The groups have eitrher disbanded or have been pushed to the very fringes of the Colombian mountains and jungles, a major step for this country that has been plagued by years and years of chaos. Those who have visted recently know that the country is as safe as any other on the continent and that this latest election only spells out increased security and mobility surrounding foreign tourists.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Generally, when you exchange money or withdrawl from an ATM you often stuck with only large bills. This becomes a problem in many South american countries where most shops don't have change. I remember going to qa market once and trying to buy an item that cost about half od a dollar and paid with a bill the size of a dollar and they didn't have changed and refused me! It is not always that extreme, but it does happen; particularly in small out of the way towns. What you can do is just use your big bills as a much as you can and always in the places that you know will have change such as supermarkets, bus stations, or upscale restaurants. Try and save the small bills for when you really need them. It will save a great deal of frustration in the long run.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Not long ago I mentioned that Huaca Cao Viejo was opening for visitors. Now they hve anounced the discovery of the tomb of a tattoed female that is unlike anything they have ever seen. This woman warrior was bured usinng elements of both male and female Moche burials, something that has never been found. There were many precious stones near her and elaborate textiles wrapped around her. The Lord of Sian, considered one of the greatest archeological finds of the past century, was found not far from here. So, this could raly be big. The June issue of National Geographic wil cover the find, so be sure to check it out.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Unless you are staying at a 4 or 5 star hotel, rarely in South America will you have hot water in your shower. Often it is advertised as hot, but it turns out to be unsatisfyingly warm. Often the case is the electric shower. A gadget new and frightnening to many. They are actually one of the surest ways to gurantee hot water in places where it seems to be non-existent although bitterly cold. The trick to them is this: turn on as little water as possible. It may only be just a small stream, but it will be hot and you can keep adjusting the level of water to whatever amount you like. Just know that the more water that comes out, the more area the heat has to cover. Careful though, some of the wiring is oftena bit loose. Prime ground for a major accident, so best touch it as little as possible. Good luck!
Posted by Nicholas Gill
El Brujo, the Trujillo (Peru) area archeological site is now set to fully open to tourists this May. Located just 40 kilometers from Trujillo, the site can be found in the district of Magdalena de Cao. The section called Cao Viejo, once opened, will make this Huaca (or tomb) near complete. I have yet to visit this particular site myself, but if it is anything like the other sites in the area I would surely not want to miss out. If you are in Trujillo and planning on exploring the archeological sites anyway, visiting Cao Viejo now would get you there before anyone else.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
Peru air travel can be frustrating as flights are often delayed, canceled, or overbooked on some of the countries regional airlines. A new airline has been established that will hopefully end some of these issues. Wayra has just a few jets and operates just out of a handful of cities, but they look quite optimistic. They have a rapid expansion plan that intends to hit most major tourist cities in Peru. Visit their site (www.wayra.com.pe) for more information and updates.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
The Platypus
Since this week's article was on the subject of Bogota, I have to mention the Platypus hostel in the city's Candelaria district. This is I think my favorite hostel in the world. It isn't so much that the hostel itself is luxurious or well kept, I have seen many better, but the atmosphere is like none other. An abundance of services are offered by owner German and the place attracts all sorts of international travelers, writers, photographers, artists, hip locals, volunteers, and just about anyone else. It is definitely low end in quality of lodging with most of the beds being dorm style. However, they do have apartment like accommodations nearby that are much nicer, still reasonably priced, and you can still use the facilities of the main lodge. There is no sign for the place so many don't notice it. Just look for the platypus on the door. Be sure to check out their site: http://platypusbogota.com.
Posted by Nicholas Gill
For those of you who have traveled in Ecuador and Peru, there is a good chance you visited one of the clubhouses of the South American Explorer's. the non-profit organization is the one stop place for all travel information on South America (well, besides here!!!). They have trip reports, book exchanges, internet access, libraries, expert advice, lectures, and many other services that can really help you make your trip that much more dynamic. Many of you will be happy to know that they now have another clubhouse in Buenos
Aires that just opened for operations this past March. It is still in the early stages and there is alot of work yet to be done, but if you are a traveler in Buenos Aires there isn't a better place you could ask for. Visit the South American Explorer's Website for more information: www.saexplorers.org.