A Gourmet Holiday in Rural France Travelling by Barge Through the Heart of Burgundy

Posted by Mari Nicholson Sep 17, 2009

It’s been a long time since my last boat trip and once again I have to ask myself why I don’t spend more time afloat and in France. Passing through rural landscapes dotted with the famous white Charolais cattle of the region, majestic willow trees dipping their branches as though in homage as we passed, and sighting ancient chateaus and castles all from the decks of our barge, would have been a delight at any time. This was August, and the weather was superb.

What is Life Like Aboard a Barge in France

GoBarging.com is the luxury barging company for cruising the waterways of Europe, France, Ireland, Scotland, and Italy. Their barges are equipped to take between nine and thirteen people in well appointed cabins, complete with shower rooms (some even with bath), spacious lounges and plenty of seating on deck. It is even possible to hire the boat exclusively if family or friends want to have the barge just for themselves. GoBarging.com will accommodate any reasonable idea. The chef prepares superb food which is accompanied by specially chosen regional wines and cheeses which makes for a true gourmet experience.

How to Get There

I took the Eurostar to Paris where I spent the first night, choosing this time to stay in the Hôtel Ampèrre which is in a residential district within a 20 minute walk of the Arc de Triomphe and with a fine view of the Eiffel Tower from my room. I love Montmartre and the Left Bank area but it was a delightful change to walk in quiet streets and check out bistros and restaurants in this sophisticated area. I enjoyed the stay so much I stayed there for another couple of nights when I returned from La Belle Epoque.

Taxis from both major stations are around €10 (unless you arrive during rush hour when, like any major city, hold-ups are the norm).

When to Go to Paris

Paris always charms, but August is the perfect month for the city as the Parisians desert it in droves, leaving the streets and the shops empty – except for tourists. I loved the atmosphere and the quietness of the streets.

But it is the green countryside and the quiet canals that will live in my memory. Paris will always delight but for now it is the abundant charms of rural France that have captured my imagination. My photographs of the ancient towns of Auxerre, Chablis, Noyers-sur-Terrin and Clamency hardly do them justice, but they do serve to remind me of an exquisite few days on the barge La Belle Epoque on the Canal Nivernais in France