Argentina's Highlights of Patagonia and Whale Watching at Peninsula Valdes

Posted by Karin-Marijke Vis Jul 16, 2009

I think most travellers will agree on one thing: Argentina's main treasure is its nature [maybe only contested by the true meat-lovers who indulge daily in great quantities of Argentinian beef]. For us Dutch, with a population density of 450 inhabitants per square kilometre, the vastness of Argentina is overwhelming. Argentina is 68 times the size of our tiny country, the Nederlands, but has only twice the number of inhabitants.

Argentina's Treasure: Patagonia

Argentina is a perfect country to explore by private vehicle, and with our Land Cruiser as our home on four wheels we set out to discover the far and remote corners of Argentina's fascinating landscape. The country is a heaven for bush camping: Argentinians themselves are campers, so campsites [paid as well as free, the latter called "camping libre"] are abundant and bush camping is quite common as well. Even parking our car in the street of a city and spending the night in our Land Cruiser is not something that surprises Argentinians.

The whole southern half of Argentina comprises Patagonia, a vastness of nothing but flat or undulating landscape where nothing grows but some shrubs and a lonely tree. At least at the western end the Andes looms at the horizon. You have to love wind and dust when planning a visit to Patagonia – you're bound to get a share of both. What astounded us most in Patagonia, the memories of which I cherish most, are the sightings of wildlife in this region which is hardly habited by men.

Wildlife in Patagonia

Hundreds of kilometres of paved or unpaved roads need to be covered to reach a next destination. In some areas, road maps are simply superfluous: there is only one road to choose from and for kilometres on end there is no turn-off in sight. Some travellers fall for the Patagonian skies: endless blue set off by soft, white streaks. I prefer to look at the landscape: the shrubs and few trees apparently are sufficient to feed a large number of '"nandus" [kind of ostrich], guanacos [type of lama], armadillos and foxes.

Not wild but present in large numbers are sheep, which we consider a danger because they cross the road in an unpredictable manner, in contrast to the guanacos, that will run away from the road or cross as quickly as possible in one straight line. Nandus are likely to keep up with the car, or probably stay ahead of it until they finally run out of breath and bear off to the side. Armadillos demand that you come to a standstill, step out of the car and photograph them. Their pointed noses, tiny ears and ribbed, leathery shells simply ask for a moment of admiration for these wonderful creatures.

The one place that has gained a very special place in our heart is Peninsula Valdes: the yearly retreat for whales to mate and give birth. Our GPS leads us to a hidden camping spot. While we camp right along the shore we spend our days waiting for high tide because that is the time the whales come closest to the shore, almost within touching distance. It's incomprehensible that there are still countries out there hunting these magnificent creatures, of which there are so few left and which need so much time to reproduce. The sight of a young albino whale was probably most surprising of all.

The Threat to Patagonia's Treasure

Ourselves originating from a lovely, but overly crowded Holland, we stand in awe of a country that is still so rich in nature and wildlife. And as these things go, human beings in general often seem to appreciate more what they don't have and forget, or neglect, the precious things that surround them. "Our country is beautiful", the Argentinians say full of pride, but it hurts to see how they litter

Patagonia, as well as the rest of their country, with garbage and pollute their waters with contaminated materials. There is no decent garbage system in Argentina; plastic flies for kilometres on end over the vast plains of Patagonia and any form of recycling of, for example oil [as in oil change in the engine of a car] or batteries is unheard of. It's all left to waste in this beautiful countryside.

Those same, wonderful, lovely and friendly Argentinians, among whom we have made many friends, have a long way to go when it comes to environmental consciousness. We can only hope the turning point comes soon.