Grandma's Food Gives Inspiration

The Leather District Gourmet, Kim Kennedy, Boston

Posted by
Jacqueline Church
Aug 6, 2008

Whether it's fresh heirloom vegetables from his own Salts Farm, or the memory of baking beside his Grandmother, or going to the market with her and grabbing piping hot bread from the Italian bakers; Chef Gabriel Bremer draws inspiration from many sources. He's one of an increasingly well-known cadre of chefs to come out of Cleveland. Michael Symon, Michael Ruhlman, Regan Reik, Dominic Cerino.

Bremer's a big fan of new techniques pioneered by Ferrán Adrià, and now known as "molecular gastronomy" though Chef Adrià himself does not use that term. So how did this Food & Wine annointed "Best Chef" go from Cleveland's West Side Market, to cooking for the award winning Fore Street restaurant in Portland ME, to running the beautiful boîte of restaurant in Cambridge MA called Salts?

Like many in the business, working in a restaurant was first a way to earn money for school. Soon he realized the restaurant, not the Conservatory, was where his heart was. Full scholarship or not!

Some might raise an eyebrow at foam on the plate, but Bremer brings familiar flavors to his contemporary comfort food. He artfully uses new techniques to bring just enough surprise to the table that diners are able to find new pleasure in known dishes. Exactly as Adrià would do, without missing a beat.

Read my Q & A with Chef Bremer for a fascinating take on new food, musical inspiration and what tastes like it came out of your grandmother's kitchen, foam and all.