Jacqueline Church's Blog

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Today's post is brought to you by the letter C. That's C as in Coffee and Culinary travel. Our horizons expand through the experience of travel. Good educators can bring that same broadening experience to you, via the classroom.

Whether you're saving dollars or minimizing your carbon footprint, if a trip to Italy isn't in your plans and you're near the Big Apple, why not take a two-day break and learn something new at the I.C.C. The quality of the offerings here are fantastic. I'm a fairly highy caffeinated gal and I've done my fair share of reading and self-study. What a revelation this course was! It wasn't just the caffeine that made my eyes pop and my jaw drop.

Though this class was taught by experts from Illy's Universita del Caffe in Trieste, this wasn't just a promo for the company. This was a thoroughly entertaining and educational course about coffee from its historical significance, through trade and scientific developments, through current events like fair trade and sustainable farming trends.

The diversity of the class in terms of experience with coffee, with food, with science was great. Less well executed curriculum would have failed where this one succeeded.

Bad Writer, Good Dog

A food writer, this food writer approaches product reviews with the best of intentions. I accept products to review only when I think I can do them a fair turn and fit in the review in a timely and traffic-building way. Sometimes, life intervenes.

Good Dog Coffee came to my attention when I was researching Shade Grown Coffee. They are a micro-roaster and roast your coffee to order. They sell Organic, Fair Trade, Shade Grown coffees from smal coops that help establish living wages and good working conditions.

They even label your coffee with a personal label. Imagine my surprise when my bags of coffee arrived with my own grinning mug on the label! And my own mug was grinning when I sipped these darkly roasted, guilt-free brews. You can find Good Dog Coffee here and they're on Facebook, too.

• Coffee with a Conscience, Shade Grown Coffee

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Quel Dommage - what a shame.

To read more about this Saveur this month has a great article here.

Many local cheese shops are hosting special tastings or meals even, featuring the cheese which may soon be only a memory.

If you'd like to learn more about other cheeses, I highly recommend the new magazine Culture: the Word on Cheese. The second edition has just been released and it's every bit as informative, fun, well-written and beautifully photographed as the first. On the topic of blues, the first edition has a great primer on blue cheeses, explaining the inoculation process, the varieties, their unique qualities and serving tips.

Here's a preview online: Culture, a sneakpeek.

You may notice an article on tea and cheese by none other than our Tea Sommelier, Cynthia Gold.

Another fun feature of Culture is the monthly centerfold - just like the centerfold of a men's magazine, we see a gorgeous two page spread photo, we learn of the likes and dislikes of the featured cheese, etc. Quite humorous and informative.

If you're buying cheese you'll want to protect it by properly wrapping it in cheese paper.

Should you find yourself with bits leftover of this or that, why not make a cheese spread?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

What I didn't know is how he has grown as a chef and manager into a real innovator, while keeping his newly honored character.

Read my Momofuku: Happy Temple of Pork article here then go to my blog and read about my interview with him. See: Keep your Oscar: I'll take my Character: David Chang.

See also: A little peach and a lot of character. David Chang gets (yet another) award.

Coming as I do from a managment consulting background, I can tell you a lot of what he's doing or trying to do, is spot on. Fostering retention and commitment and even gaining a recruiting advantage are all things that are enhanced by the kinds of efforts Chang describes.

It was a great fun chat, even if there was a PR person lurking behind the mute button!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Our "cheesy friend" Jody sent us a box of cheeses from Dean and Deluca the other day. Trying the first few bites of the Coach Farm Triple Cream goat cheese absolutely gave me chills, it was that good. Thanks Jody!

Immediately, I had to tell you about it here, but what else could I write about it? Then it occured to me that I hadn't yet profiled an exciting new food magazine called Culture. Please read about it in this post, If You Think Cheese is Sexy, and find it soon at your cheesemonger or bookstore.

Researching the Coach Farm cheese I discovered that the farm carries the name of Coach Leather because that is who started the farm, the former owners of Coach Leather. I also learned they've won numerous awards for their cheeses. Having tried just one exquisite cheese of theirs I can not say I'm surprised.

But it doesn't stop there...guess who is married to the Coach Farm's owners' daughter? The son of this man, Armandino Batali. That's right, Mario Batali is married to the Cahn's daughter. Imagine those picnics?

Oh mama. Well if that doesn't do it for you, maybe the centerfold will, see CultureCheeseMag.com. If Winnimere only liked long walks on the beach...

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Read about Sandrine's to see what Alsatians are doing, with choucroute and sausage and more. The smallest region in France has the largest concentration of culinary stars. Something good is going on there.

The other sausage post this week was about our friends at Cochon and what they're doing with their Cajun versions of sausage and charcuterie.

For centuries folks learned to utilize and preserve every bit of meat they grew. After all, the pig took resources to grow and nurture and you had to really get every bit of value out of it when it was slaughtered.

Some artisans and chefs doing great things with salumi, charcuterie, hot dogs, and choucroute include:

• Donald Link and Stephen Stryljewski of Cochon Butcher
• Chris Cosentino of Boccalone and Incanto
• Armandino Batali of Salumi
• Raymond Ost at Sandrine's

Michael Ruhlman's newest tome, Charcuterie is said to be fantastic and based on his other books I have read, I would recommend it without having seen it myself first.

Spanish are known for some pretty perfect pig products, too. It's rumored that there's a Navarra promotion going on right now in Boston and NYC - it's just kinda hard to find out what that means. Ooops.

Here's a brief bit on them.

If you're in Boston:

• Salumeria Italiana in the North End
• Las Ventas in the South End
• Savenors

All those purveyors can provide you with wonderful charcuterie.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Little late but wanted to share the news: Raghavan Iyer's book 660 Curries, which I told you about here, in Cooking with Ghee & Gratitude was one of the top picks for 2008 by NPR.

I can't tell you how delicious your house will smell and how much you will enjoy the food - you just have to see for yourself.

Cheers!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

This post on Aromatized wines and specifically, VYA Vermouth, is all about this long-neglected category of wines.

Martinis: what they are and ain't

I have always found one of the most enjoyable meals to be a simple martini followed by a rare to med-rare, dry-aged Delmonico. No less than my beloved Julia Child once attributed her longevity to red meat and gin. Need I say more? Okay, if you insist...

My uber-sophisticate friend Catherine and I established a tradition of celebrating new professional achievements with a steak dinner, leaving aside the places that ignore women or only treat them as decorative objects. Instead, we christened a few as favorites among the elegant, clubby steak houses in Boston. Grill 23 and Smith and Wollensky reign supreme. We know we are always going to be well (if sometimes over-) served. Likewise, we know we will always get both a perfect martini and a fabulous steak. And we will be no less respected than those two suits at the other end of the bar.

Again, a Manhattan is an acceptable substitution and Catherine's late father and my husband both master mixologists, helped us expand our horizons in this regard. Jim Cecil's trick was to add a splash of the cherry juice, Caleb refuses to give up his secret, but his are not to be trifled with either.

Martinis - the proper pre-dinner cocktail

Only a few make the list: a Martini, a Manhattan, a good Sherry or perhaps a glass of good Champagne.

A Martini should not be full of fruit, nor should it be chocolate. The current fad demanding all drinks in a Martini glass be called "Martinis" is simply a reflection of a relative lack of sophistication. So many young professionals striving to look cool at the networking social held at some swanky downtown venue.

The Kool-Aid generation came of drinking age coinciding with a huge over-production of Zinfandel. Serendipity and smart marketing took the surplus and created a new wine entirely aimed at the youthful drinkers whose palates ran toward the innocuous and vapid. A stroke of marketing genius gave these customers just what they wanted: White Zin.

It was that same palate that for years held captive our beloved Martinis. Now, thank heavens, true Martinis are back.

L'chaim!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Do you cook from a recipe or not? For me, most often I consult it for rough proportions or to remind myself of the basic framework. Then I do my own thing. If it's something intimidating or something I've never made before, or both, I probably will have a recipe in front of me.

It's an interesting set of video clips with the legendary Nach Waxman. Chow.com has their wonderful "Obsessisves" video interviews with guys like Chef Chris Cosentino talking about offal. Nach Waxman is talking about our collective neurotic reliance on cookbooks and recipes. He has an interesting theory, it's worth a watch.

There's also a great site with videos, recipes and lots if not everything you might want to know about who is cooking authentic Italian cooking anywhere in the world hosted by the Virtual Group of Italian Chefs. They are on a crusade to save us, ladies and germs, from that scourge of the universe: bad Italian food! Yes! May the force be with them, I say.

If you want to look at this juxtaposed against my bastardization of Italian Wedding Soup, it might be good food for thought. Or not. But it'll be good food for your plate. Promise.

Oh, by the way, according to our other quirky encyclopedic chef friend and writer Chef James Ehler of Foodreference.com it's also National Pastrami Sandwich Day.

Take your pick. Enjoy!

By the way, All'onda in the title? That refers to the term literally translated as "the wave". It is the motion, in the bowl or plate that properly prepared risotto should make. Too often our risotto is too stiff and starchy or too soft and soupy.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

This article In Marrakesh, notes the interest in Morrocco and the culinary travel trend. Africa is one continent I have yet to visit. This is a place that holds such fascination ever since I was a young girl and had to look up what a "striped djelleba" was...

Take the train from Casablanca going south

Striped djellebas we can wear at home Well, let me hear you now

Then recently I saw the movie Casablanca again. I'd forgotten how funny, sharp, cutting the dialog is in much of the movie. And speaking of cutting words, Dick Cavett has a column now in the NYT whose recent installment is about the art of the insult. I'm starting a new semi-regular feature called "Bit o'Bile" over on my blog. C'mon over and see what it's about. There's a Bogey, Casablanca connection, of course.

In the meantime, enjoy some cous cous - it's great with Meyer Lemon Chicken.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

In the last several years I have fallen head over heels for Global knives. I don't know how the dalliance started, I was a loyal Henckels girl. But you know that new sexy kid arrived, the staid old German model just seemed a little less racy.

It was one, then another, then a wedding registry and a magnetic knife strip...

That knife block with the Henckels sat on my counter top. Anchoring the cutting boards and keeping them from pushing the toaster into the sink. But not much more.

Then it happened. One day, for whatever reason, my hand reached for the knife block. For my sturdy, heavy Henckels Chef Knife. I picked up that knife and the weight of it was heavenly in my hand. Suddenly the Global seemed less substantial.

Was I being unfaithful to my Globals? I felt the Henckel's Chef knife had forgiven me. He was simply standing by, patiently waiting until I came to my senses and the dalliance was over.

Since 1731 Henckels have been making knives. That's long enough to get something right, don't you think?

Still the Global looks good and fits my hand sooo nicely.

Reconciliation:

We have all kissed and made up. The make up cooking is always the best, isn't it?

We are going forward together as one happy family. The Globals on their magnetic strip (see the photo) and the Henckels in their block. I will not deny either, and they both give me pleasure.

Is it any wonder why we are so happy in the kitchen?

For more on Buying Kitchen Cutlery and the great new book Knives Cooks Love, read here.

Also see Knife Skills Illustrated for a beautiful guide to the skills home cooks need to hone.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Food and Wine, Saveur, Gourmet, chefs resources all over the place and periodicals for home cooks and foodies are busy on their summer ideas right about now. But a few months ago when they were working on tabulating food trends for 2008 and predicitons for 2009, what was on the collective culinary mind?

One clear trend is to go local, sustainable, organic when it doesn't break the bank. If you want to get big satisfaction for pennies, wow your family, make friends with your neighbors, I have two words for you:

Start Baking!

There is simply no better way to make love with food. Okay, maybe there are some but this is not our topic today. Baking bread is a universally appealing smell. And my delight at rediscovering the joy of baking is only heightened by the fact that it is so inexpensive! What else can you do for pennies that creates this much joy?

One of my most popular articles is the Perfect Pie Crusts recipe. Here's a shocker: I found a better recipe.

I also have two fabulous sources to share. One is Cindy Mushet's Art and Soul of Baking and the King Arthur Flour company's Baker's Banter Blog.

I promise you if you try just one or two recipes from the KAF blog or one or two peeks into Mushet's book, you'll discover or re-discover the world of baking and the joys of perfect pies and hot bread from the oven.

Plus, you'll be saving money and setting a trend.

See my Adventures in Sourdough slideshow here.

Right now there are two loaves of a rustic loaf (slightly sourdough, not fully) with thyme and carmelized onion baking in the oven and filling the loft with the most divine smell.

Christmas morning we had sourdough popovers. New year's day a quiche. Pear and caramel tartlettes with the leftover piecrust were dessert the next night.

This recipe makes a wonderful and fool proof pie crust: Thanks to KAF!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Some people break wishbones for luck...

wishbones - 3 chickens, a capon, a Naragansett turkey

wishes split pretty evenly!

Others make resolutions.

• I will lose weight!
• I will eat better!
• I will drink less!

Blah, blah, blah.

Okay the goals are laudable, but they're the same ones we made last year, right?

Three bits of advice:

1. Making SMART Goals.
2. Here are some food traditions and some tips for making achievable goals that won't cramp your style.
3. Consider also, Firsts, Lasts and Never Haves and Why Nots...

Posted by Jacqueline Church

After researching some of Boston's newest afternoon teas for another project, I had to revisit my earlier article, Welcome to the World of High Tea. "Had to" is not exactly correct, "got to" might be a better way to put it.

What a wonderful discovery - Boston's afternoon tea offerings have blossomed like a jasmine pearl in the bottom of your teacup!

Did you know?

1. Boston has nearly a dozen afternoon tea offerings
2. Many include tea service for guests under 12 with things like PBJ sandwiches
3. Several offer substantial cocktail teas as well as traditional sherries and champagnes
4. Boston has one of the first "tea sommeliers" in the world. Cynthia Gold at the venerable Park Plaza Hotel.
5. The new Mandarin Oriental luxury hotel includes local foods like cod or lobster
6. The new L'Espalier offers caviar and cheese courses

It just goes on and on. See The Lowdown on High Tea for more info.

Another Cuppa

Coffee's all grown up now too. Never mind Dunkin' Donuts' coffee which still is heaven in a cup to masses of Bostonians. The coffees I'm talking about are single estates, micro-roasted, fair traded and shade-grown. In Coffee with a Conscience I cover the latest ground (ahem, get it?)

There's even someone making biofuel out of coffee grounds. Talk about something to get you going!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Culinary travel continues to top lists of Travel trends. See this article in Travel Biz Monitor.

Don't forget some of these culinary travel trends we visited before:

Cooking with Cesarine - the quintessential home cooking tour, Italian women keeping the traditions alive by entertaining culinary travelers in their own homes.

Cooking schools - like NECI in Vermont and Ballymaloe in Ireland, cooking schools offer a more hands-on experience for those home cooks looking to expand or deepen their own culinary skills and repertoire. Often you can find programs that focus on a particular genre such as pastry or pasta or as in the case of Ballymaloe, it's all about farm to table with their own organic garden right on premises.

Check this category, Global Gourmet Passport , of articles if you're thinking about trips in the new year.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

My old roommate used to call it motivation in a cup. Coffee is our morning wakie-wakie, or our afternoon pick-me-up. Biofuel we now know can have many ramifcations on the environment when corn is produced to feed engines rather than feeding people, it gets messy fast.

The American Chemical Society's (ACS) Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, a bi-weekly publication recently announced that scientists collected spent coffee grounds from a multinational coffeehouse chain and separated the oil. They then used an inexpensive process to convert 100 percent of the oil into biodiesel.

The resulting biodiesel not only smelled like java - an added benefit if you ask me - but it also ran clean. The java based bio fuel ran more stable than traditional biodiesel due to coffee's high antioxidant content, the researchers say. Solids left over from the conversion can be converted to ethanol or used as compost, the report notes.

With a growing market for sustainable biofuel this could be a great business. Any investors out there?

And I came to this researching shade-grown coffee for my Coffee with a Conscience article. It's an idea whose time has come. We cannot ignore the loss of natural habitat from our agricultural practices. Some of the worst ones we export to fuel our coffee jones. It's ironic that the number one import to the US is petroleum and the #2 is coffee, which may someday replace at least some of the petroleum dependency.

This makes crazy good sense to me or maybe I just need a cup of Joe....

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Looking back at 2008, it was a disastrous year in food safety. Tainted and poisoned food, e. coli contaminated produce, melamine and other toxins pouring into our grocery stores thanks to our lax governmental inspection policies; doesn’t it seem even more important to have a better pick for Ag Secretary than the guy who’s in Monsanto’s hip pocket, the champion of big beef cloning companies and pharmaceutical companies?

Someone needs to talk some sense into the President-elect - enough with this reaching across the aisle business. That Vilsack-line is not one we want you to cross. He’s no advocate of the policies your supporters care about.

• The top 10 trends: locally grown produce, bite-size desserts, organics, healthy kids' meals, new/fabricated meat cuts, kids' vegetable/fruit side dishes, superfruits (including acai and mangosteen), small plates/tapas/mezze/dim sum, artisanal liquor, sustainable seafood.

Local, organic, sustainable seafood - with all the food safety issues this year, the poisonings, deaths and recalls of unsafe foods sitting on our grocers’ shelves is it any wonder that people are going to prefer local, organic and sustainably grown food? I always say “if your farmer doesn’t have a face, be afraid.” In other words, know your producers. Build those local relationships. If his kids are drinking the same groundwater he’s going to less likely to poison it, we can assume.

Even though Epicurious bloggers declared sustainable over, pitting it in a false dichotomy against value (!) we know that not only do you get better value (nutrition) from local, organic, sustainably grown food, we reap less public health costs and personal health crises when we are not polluting the land and our bodies with chemicals to make bionic food (bigger, faster, more productive).

Organic wines and micro-distilled liquors, culinary cocktails, organic coffees...I see these as connected to the same issues. Food integrity as well as food safety. Direct or Fair Trade is another issue that comes up, especially with things like coffee which is a huge import for the US.

• The top alcohol trends: micro-distilled liquor, culinary cocktails and organic wine. Top non-alcoholic beverage trends: specialty iced tea, organic coffee and flavored/enhanced water.

So read about the 2008 Best Food Finds here and see what else I predict will be hot for 2009.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I have decided this year - more than ever - it's not about stuff. Never should be the purpose of holidays, but let's really take this to heart today.

Here are some ideas for how:

1. Focus on what's important

2. Make any gifts useful, practical gifts

3. Consumables are always appreciated

4. Books for cooks - you can't go wrong...

Now, to get you started:

Here's a whole shelf full of books I've reviewed here, books I've reviewed elsewhere, books I've been given, lent or picked up along the way...at least the ones that I recommend, among them:

• Fish Without a Doubt - Chef Rick Moonen's fantastic fish bible. Gourmet Magazine's #1 pick.
• 660 Curries - like a gateway to India, or maybe a gateway drug! I've gotten hooked. Even toasting and grinding my own garam masala now!
• Gumbo Tales - Sara Roahen's moving tale of a city that charmed her, and me.

In honor of the repeal of Prohibition, I'd say it's high time for a cocktail. C'mon it's 5 o'clock somewhere...

Why not make a Sazerac? Sit down with my tips and make youreself a nice old list for Santa.

Meanwhile, I'm hard at work on more practical and fun gift ideas...

Spice it up with a little "porn for women" perhaps? Must see it to believe it....relax, it's not X rated, I promise...actually could be a fun gift...more on the way!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Who can blame me? With a cup of Vialone Nano left and most of one carton of broth, some shallots and a new bunch of broccoli, it was clear what dinner was going to be.

Did you know the story behind Risotto Milanese? In the 16C it seems, a young glass worker was teased for using saffron to color his stained glass that was going into the local cathedral. To get back at those taunting him, he threw saffron in their risotto. Unfortunately for him, and fortunately for us, the results were delicious.

It occured to me that many people never try risotto at home laboring under the mistaken notion that it's very hard, full of cream or very time-consuming. Actually none of this is true. While risotto is creamy, there is no cream in it. It couldn't be easier to make and it only takes 15-18 minutes to make.

So tuck in and raise a glass to that 16c glass maker. Grazie!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

When I wrote We Gain. We Lose. We Question Why. I wasn’t thinking about rice. I was reflecting on the denial of the right to marry for gay citizens in California. Thinking about how it must feel to be overjoyed at the election of President-elect Obama, simultaneously feeling shock about the civil rights setback.

Writing about Koda Farms True Varietal heirloom rice, it occurred to me (and how could it not) that their family history is both unique and emblematic of other families. Especially Japanese families in this country, my own included.

In my post-election essay I asked what my fellow Japanese citizens in the great state of California had done to ensure that no citizens were denied civil rights as they once were. Keisaburo Koda the patriarch of the Koda clan, like so many Japanese citizens continued to believe in his adopted country as a country of liberty. He stayed loyal to it even after being betrayed by it. He was instrumental in the founding of one of the first civil rights organizations in the country, the Japanese American Citizens League. He did all this after having his successful farm stripped of him, dismantled and sold, per Executive Order 9066. He ensured banking and insurance was available to other Japanese Americans. He became a citizen in 1954.

And Koda's story and the story of the family farm tells us that we are a resilient nation of immigrants. Hard-working and willing to stay and fight for the rights that are theirs, to contribute to the welfare of others and to succeed on their own merit. Hopefully this history tells us that civil rights, rights of full citizenship are inevitable for our gay brothers, sisters, aunts, uncles, children and parents.

In a simple bowl of rice so much history, pain, comfort and joy.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Chocolate - hot chocolate at LA Burdick is legendary for a reason. It's that good. Then there's the new upstart Taza which is fair trade, hand roasted etc. try the Mexican for your mole pleasure.

Cannele are unique French pastry that are made in special molds and coated with edible beeswax. Amazing nutty flavor.

Richart is the maker of our wedding favors and also the producer of some of the finest chocolates. Artisanal little hand painted cubes in architectural boxes. Flavors that include roasted, balsamic, fruity, and floral. They even do a made to order burlwood chocolate vault. It was on my luxe gift list last year.

Ooh, gift lists. Better get cracking!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Teach a Man to Fish - 2008 Highlights

In this our second year, TAMTF has gathered:

• 37 Recipes (including an oyster stuffing just in time for Thanksgiving, and a half-dozen more recipes in the resource list); plus: a five step plan for local action;

• From 10 countries (US, Singapore, France, Philippines, Germany, China, India, Australia, UK, Thailand) and 10 States (Alaska, Massachusetts, Louisiana, Alabama, New York, California, Minnesota, Missouri, Colorado, Washington D.C).

• 9 professional Chefs coast-to-coast joined award-winning food writers like the Food Gal, blog and book publishers like Chocolate and Zucchini, a sushi concierge, producers like Lauren Farms Prawns and Wild Pacific Albacore.

• Home cooks, like you and me, participated too. Many of you shared new resources or asked for specific help. I've added a separate resource list including global guides, two really good short videos and more recipes in an expanded resource list, here.

• This year, I award the first annual Flying Fish Award to one participant who went above and beyond (get it?) Scroll down to find out who won, is it you?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Amuse Cochon

Five Chefs, Five Pigs, Five Winemankers

You love heritage pigs, you love wine, you love great chefs and food artisans. You are near or can get to Napa Valley. Have I got the overnight getaway for you!

This event is called Amuse Cochon a play on the phrase Amuse Bouche, but heck I’ll take a pig (cochon) for an amuse bouche (French, literally translated to "mouth amuser"). Unable to attend or fulfill a role as a guest judge, I send along my best wishes for a rockin’ good pig party. I know it will be fun with Allan Benton, Peter Pahk, Chris Cosentino. What a fantastic line up!

Now a little closer to home, Boston is slowly developing its own porcine head to tail culture. If you care about (check all that apply):

• good food,
• slow food,
• low carbon footprint food,
• artisan food products

Then you owe it to yourself to check out these fine chefs and what they’re doing. Coast to coast pig. Who’s a happy girl?

Taking a break from my sustainable seafood wrap up editing, I thought this is a good time to post on pigs. I recently had the opportunity to watch a suckling pig butchering demonstration by one of Boston’s finest butchers: Ron Savenor.

Not only did this class benefit me but it made a donation to the Boston Public Market group’s efforts to secure a permanent public market. Caleb made a substantial donation to the efforts in the silent auction in order to procure this prize for me at their fundraiser during Morton’s Seaport opening party.

Here’s that slideshow.

Here’s a link to my post on the Hello Greenway event and the subsequent efforts to find out just what the heck is going on with the securing of the public market which was supposed to be agreed to as part of the greenway negotiations. Doncha love Boston politics? We got Wilkerson padding her bra in that disgusting violation of public trust and resources directed at her sting operation but something that would serve ALL the citizens of Boston, draw tourists to our city, support local farmers...it’s still “being studied.”

Posted by Jacqueline Church

You may have heard about the 1,500 miles a tomato travels to your plate. This article, my notes and research for it, have traveled more than most tomatoes. Heck this article has traveled even more than most people in the past two months. Oy. Hopefully, the news it brings you will help us cut our collective emissions enabling some sort of atmospheric and karmic offsets.

Creating a Brontosaurus-sized carbon footprint, I recently flew to San Francisco to attend the Slow Food Nation's inaugural Come to the Table event. At Slow Food, I met local farmers, listened to experts in food policy. Spoke with activists and artisans passionately described their food values, choices about what to farm or produce and how.

One of the ironies of my trip struck me when I was discussing the Low Carbon Diet with Katherine Kwon of Bon Appétit Management Company (BAMCo). Bon Appétit Management Company (or BAMCO) runs restaurants, cafes and catering in over 400 spots in 28 states. BAMCO has been at the forefront of sustainability issues for years. Recognizing that how food is produced, farmed, packaged, and shipped all add up.

Bamco’s been recognized for its leadership on many campuses and its other venues. Numerous awards have been marked their success at improving food service practices, educating students and other consumers about the impact of our food choices. Read their blog here.

I met Katherine, Communications Project Manager, in Monterey at the Sustainability Institute. It was there that I first learned of the Low Carbon Diet (LCD) program and tools. The Low Carbon Diet helps us leverage our buying power, guiding our food choices toward items that are healthy for the planet, as well as for bodies.

It's interactive fun and good for us. Check out why here: Moove over South Beach Diet.

Thanks Katherine, Helene and BAMCo!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Okay, so convenience is there. No one has to touch garlic or wash sand out of parsley if they don't care to, but isn't that what cooking is about? I made swordfish using Rick Moonen's Fish Without a Doubt recipe (p. 166) and it calls for garlic, red pepper flakes, thyme.

I could not have brought myself to squeeze garlic from a tube rather than mash it in the mortar and pestle. I took fresh garlic, mashed it anchovies, and thyme forming a nice paste. To this, red pepper flakes and oil were added, and the swordfish was marinated in the paste. Strong, fresh flavors.

No preservatives, no sugars, no starches, no emulsifiers. I was making the emulsion with the mortar and pestle. The anchovy provided umami, salt. The herbs added great flavor, and the swordfish was delicious.

Here's a technique for drying fresh herbs from Michael Vyskocil.

Here's another method for keeping herbs: make a compound butter, roll it in waxed paper and place in the freezer.

Newer ovens on the higher end (such as Bosch) have extremely low settings such for dehydrating herbs and proofing bread. Last year's end-of -summer garden herbs, dehydrated that way were spectacular!

Read about Gourmet Garden herbs here in my product review. Does convenience rule over all else?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Ouch -- my tongue looks awful and feels worse. I just got so caught up in the excitement of sharing a good meal with new friend David, old friend Joe, some XLB (soup dumplings), when aiyaaa....chomp. Now my tongue resembles ground beef.

My penance was to write all night about really good food (with no ability to eat). Drinking cold iced tea. Hot liquid just opens up the wound. Trust me.

So - remember what your Mom told you and please, don't talk with your mouth full. No matter how hungry or excited you are, how animated the conversation gets.

Read here about this wonderful Miso Marinated Sablefish. And I also thought I should share my sustainable seafood finds and faux pas here: Tautog, Wolf Fish, Sablefish.

It's getting close to back-to-school time. My 'most wonderful time of the year' and I'll be going back to school myself. Newman Farm University, where Berkshire pork is raised. They are Certified Humane and I'm eager to learn more about the abattoir (slaughter) practices, too. It will be tough but good to get an honest view of how a cute little pig gets turned into that delicious bacon, ham or salumi. See The Snail Issue 6 Summer 2008 for Marissa Guggiana's excellent article on The Art of Killing.

Remember Berkshire? Kurobuta is its other name. Or how about Salumi in Seattle? They use Newman Farms' pork. Yes, I will be rounding out my porcine education this month. Stay tuned for more good swine. The schedule looks like it includes plenty of eating too, so I'll be rounding out more than just my knowledge.

Let's just hope I can remember to not speak with my mouth full!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

The Familiar and the Unexepected

Jose Andres is a fantastic chef and ambassador. With the black eye Spanish Olympians are giving the country, someone there should get out in front of the media and do some positive PR for the country with their culinary leaders. One of the things you see watching Chef Andres in a clip from ABC news. He speaks to how our knowledge of the world expands but our experience of it flattens out. We become unable to experience things the way a child does. Our capacity for joy is not gone, it's just dulled.

Andres is el jefe when it comes to enthusiasm. This comes through in his PBS show. He is focused on reintroducing us to the child-like wonder in the world through food. It's what Chef Gabriel Bremer also does here in Cambridge at Salts, using new techniques to re-introduce us to famliar foods.

My introduction to Ferrán Adrià was quite moving for me. I wrote about it here, catching the attention of Epicurious.com editor, Tanya Steel.

Unexpected

Paella is one of the dishes most commonly identified with Spain. One of the best parts of the dish is "socorat" the crusty rice on the bottom of the paella pan. People covet it. To my surprise, a recent paella in Boston had no socorat! Guests had complained of "burnt" paella so the kitchen stopped serving it done properly. The lesson: ask. Next time I'll give the kitchen the joy of cooking an authentic paella and I'll enjoy my crunchy bits.

To read about my experience at a Spanish newcomer here, Estragon is Serious about Cachondeo.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

First our Noodles

Rin: like angel hair. Seiro, smooth but heavier. Inaka, roughest, deliberately chewiest. This according to Frank Bruni reviewing Matsugen - the new soba shop in TriBeCa. "Shop" may be the wrong word, it sounds like more of a temple of worship.

This spot is the lovechild of Jean-Georges Vongeritchen and Taka, Yoshi and Masa Matsushita. The Matsushita brothers run the kitchen. It was a conscious delegation of responsibilities Jean-Georges wanting to ensure a purely, Japanese soba experience, not simply a Japanese aesthetic experience.

Natto in the dish? That's the real deal. This is one aspect of Bruni's review that strikes me as authentically Japanese: an unbending honoring of tradition. No California rolls. No dumbing down for the American customers. Matsugen: 241 Church Street (Leonard Street), TriBeCa; (212) 925-0202.

Ribs for Republicans or Dems

While PETA urges the Republicans to honor their elephant mascot's vegetarian ways and serve ribs of celery versus ribs of beef at their convention (as if!)...Virgil's Real Barbecue(152 West 44th) celebrates Woodstock's 39th anniversary with "Ribstock". Did I miss something? Were a lot of hippies BBQ lovers? I'd have guessed they were the celery rib types, if they ate at all...Go figure.

Real ribs...Bison Ribs

My first Bison ribs from Wild Idea Buffalo were fantastic. Further evidence that this heritage meat, humanely raised and slaughtered, grass-fed is a terrific alternative to beef. Try some bison y'all. Write me for a killer recipe for BBQ sauce and techinque! (Secret: father-in-law's sundried tomatoes replace ketchup as the base.)

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I've been really lucky to connect with some great blogs lately. Burnt Lumpia brings us Chicken Inasal which uses both Annatto oil and Lemongrass.

101 Cookbooks ran this Grilled Lemon-Achiote Tofu recipe, just when I was researching a reader's question about Chadon Beni.

So it got me thinking, how many herbs, spices do we share with a diverse array of cultures? For example, culantro which is the chief ingredient in the Chadon Beni sauce I was locating for my reader, is also used in Puerto Rican Sofrito, as well as Vietnamese and Cambodian foods.

Annatto seeds, which color Filipino Chicken Inasal, also lends color to Red Leicester cheese and Spanish yellow rice.

Allspice is used in Jamaican jerk seasonings, is a key ingredient in chili and in my poaching and soup recipes.

Some of the most beloved cuisines and food cultures are those that combine influences from so many traditions. Like Floribbean cuisine, New Orleans cuisine and Jamaican all share that in common. Coming together around the table, does it get any better than that?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Even as recently as last week I told you about new frozen treats discovered at the cross-roads of science and gourmet food. One of my favorite scientists, Harold McGee the Curious Cook, often reveals the science behind our experience in the kitchen. He does so in a way that even a girl who skipped science after the 9th grade, for ever more, can understand it. Harold says cold is the new hot.

Now we know that many people claim to taste differences in bottled waters. There's even a newsletter and blog about fine waters and their different flavor profiles and sources. I guess there can be terroir in wines, merroir in oysters, why not terroir in mineral water? Okay, even the Four Seasons hotel in Sydney is promoting a water bar.

Now, it's ice. That's right, ice.

Can you imagine your invited guests coming over for cocktails and bringing their own ice because they don't like yours? Apparently, this is the new frontier: Ice. We're not talking (just) about ensuring your ice has no "off flavors" picked up from the foods in the fridge or freezer. People actually are talking about boiling water to make ice without bubbles. And others are unhappy with crescent shaped ice, blaming it for shifting in the glass when they sip their beverage.

Read this article, I like my ice just so and see why your guests may be showing up with their own ice. Mine is reverse-osmosis filtered so don't bring me ice from a lesser source please!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Whether it's fresh heirloom vegetables from his own Salts Farm, or the memory of baking beside his Grandmother, or going to the market with her and grabbing piping hot bread from the Italian bakers; Chef Gabriel Bremer draws inspiration from many sources. He's one of an increasingly well-known cadre of chefs to come out of Cleveland. Michael Symon, Michael Ruhlman, Regan Reik, Dominic Cerino.

Bremer's a big fan of new techniques pioneered by Ferrán Adrià, and now known as "molecular gastronomy" though Chef Adrià himself does not use that term. So how did this Food & Wine annointed "Best Chef" go from Cleveland's West Side Market, to cooking for the award winning Fore Street restaurant in Portland ME, to running the beautiful boîte of restaurant in Cambridge MA called Salts?

Like many in the business, working in a restaurant was first a way to earn money for school. Soon he realized the restaurant, not the Conservatory, was where his heart was. Full scholarship or not!

Some might raise an eyebrow at foam on the plate, but Bremer brings familiar flavors to his contemporary comfort food. He artfully uses new techniques to bring just enough surprise to the table that diners are able to find new pleasure in known dishes. Exactly as Adrià would do, without missing a beat.

Read my Q & A with Chef Bremer for a fascinating take on new food, musical inspiration and what tastes like it came out of your grandmother's kitchen, foam and all.

• Cold is the New Hot; McGee on Chilling and Bremer on Molecular Gastronomy
• Child of Cleveland's West Side Market, Chef Gabriel Bremer

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I met Chef Rick Moonen in Monterey. He's going to join Teach a Man to Fish this year and I can't wait! Chef Moonen's book, Fish Without a Doubt, embodies the same energy as he does: straight shooting, smart, fun, informed.

You have the sense from Chef Moonen, and from his book, that this is a trusted friend you can come as you are, ask any question, and have a great time cooking a terrific meal. Allaying cooks' fears about fish in a natural way, he doesn't avoid any tough issues, just lays out the facts and moves forward. Fish whose stocks are depleted simply don't appear in the book. He also tells us which fish that are included, should be eaten judiciously. An early leader in sustainability - long before it was fashionable - Chef Moonen is an inspiration.

Recipes, photos, resources, and tips are all here to make your intro to fish smooth and stress-free. If you need a little help convincing the family to try a new dish, Catfish Sloppy Joes is a sure bet.

Clams and Chorizo (p. 283) is a great example of his style. Six ingredients, six steps, 20 minutes and you've got dinner for two or appetizers for four.

See his website for more information. Join in the fray by telling me about your cookbook favorites and pet peeves, here: Cookbooks read, reviewed, reviled, recommended.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

The International Culinary Center introduces a new Recreational Division that will offer fun, hands-on courses for people of all ages and culinary skills at a fraction of the time and cost of a professional culinary school.

For the first time, world class chef instructors will be offering classes for the public. You'll be taught in the same hands-on, immersion technique that they use to teach students enrollled at The French Culinary Institute.

The introductory Recreational Division courses range from The Perfect Baguette to The Ultimate Thanksgiving Dinner to a special Cooking 101 series taught by chef, radio host and author, Michael Colameco. The courses-which cost between $150 and $395-- are single-session, classes that run three or four hours.

For more information about course descriptions or enrollment, please visit see their website here.

Hungry for More?

Don't forget the up-coming, inaugural New York Culinary Experience, where you'll have even more in-depth, hands-on training from top chefs for a whole weekend of master classes. Read about it here.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Cobalt Blue and Fabulous

Imagine a very, very chic woman, dressed to the nines, jet black and cobalt blue hair. Like a cross between Coco Chanel and Chryssie Hynde - high heels, tailored pants, crisp white blouse. Oh my god. I wanted to follow her and just be in her presence. She’s more chic, turned more heads on her morning bagel run than I do on my very best date night. At half her age. Her stories, you can only imagine. I’m sure there are some amazing tales in that life.

And stories are plentiful when you go to a Jewish Deli or Appetizing store. Even when you take an intro class on the world of lox. There are many reasons to go but just as many to visit their website. See Russ & Daughters. Buy, listen, watch, eat.

The only thing you'll be hungry for is more stories.

Took my niece and her boyfriend Paul with us to the Astor Center for a class with another recovering attorney, Mark Russ Federman (third generation). Little did I know when we invited Paul to take a break from studying for the bar, that we'd hear jokes about "the rule of perpetuities" in our lox tasting. Oy! Sorry Paul! Good Luck!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Greenwashing is now in the OED Oxford English Dictionary. It describes the whitewashing of regular old PR and marketing with the theme du jour "going green". I've brought you news of the popularity of culinary travel and invited you to explore the paradox of being an "environmentally conscience traveler". Seems this paradox is still making headlines.

Here's the latest news from Canada. Traveling to eat locally.Think about that for a minute.

Eco - foodie- tours that teach you about the food cycle are climbing in popularity. Up close and personal with your food. Care to examine a big steamy pile of droppings on a hiking trail to see what the local big game are eating? Then later at dinner, see if you can discern their diet by the flavor of the meat?

This may be extreme, but there are a couple of interesting facts tied to that experience...here's an interesting fact:

• Post 9/11 tourists rank "local cuisine" the biggest factor in choosing a travel destination. More than parks, mountains, casinos.
• 17% of travelers last year indicated they were taking part in culinary or wine-related activities and 60% planned to in the near future.

On Burgers, Sliders and "Hamburglers"

I wonder if the OED includes the McD's term "hamburgler" in its recent lexicon updates. Seems the recent editors and writers cannot resist it. See the New York Mag here and the Improper Bostonian, too.

If the Los Angeles Times is correct, and Americans are eating less fish*, maybe we're in for more burgled beef words. Wonder what the greenwashing will be on the carbon footprint of beef?

Coming up: The Low Carbon Diet.

* this year's consumption is on the decline as against last year. Still, with our love of meat, we're just third in fish consumption behind China and Japan.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Tonight it was purslane. It's more likely to be referred to as a weed, by many. This little green succulent superfood is going to be the next big thing. Tell everyone you heard it here first.

Why the bold prediction?

1. It's delicious.
2. It's truly a nutritional superfood.
3. It's a pesky weed to many a gardener, so you only have to find someone who's getting rid of their weeds and a perfectly symbiotic relationship is established.
4. Farmers also need to get rid of it. Many are actually finding they can grow it as a cash crop.
5. As a succulent, this little dynamo is perfect for the water starved areas of the world.

So find a market that sells it, or ask your grocer to carry it. Better yet, find a gardener (an organic one please!) and offer to take some off their hands.

Put purslane on your next sandwich. Toss it into potato salad. Steam it as you would spinach.

Just promise you'll try it. You won't be disappointed. Hey, if Thomas Keller is serving it in his restaurants, what does that tell you?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Of tools, tales and cucurbits.

I've written about gadgets, tools, trucs tips.

One tool I have not had all these years is an inexpensive one that gives great pleasure with very little effort. It can help wake you up, or keep a good night going. Guessed it yet?

Bialetti Espresso maker. I never knew how easy it is to make a great cup of espresso. OMG life as we know it has changed.

Well after an espresso, anything seems possible.

How about a new cocktail? How about some Tzatziki? Lettuce wraps? Watermelon salad?

Yes, yes, yes, and yes.

Take a look around and you'll find not one but three cucurbit related recipes lurking here.

Cool as a cucumber, and rarin' to go!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Not only did I get to tour a salmon cannery, talk to fishermen, conservationists and see a glacier calving, I was a guest judge in the Taste of Cordova. I dined on dishes offered by local cooks and chefs and we spent as many of our meals as we could sampling local fare. From sourdough to reindeer sausage. And then there was the salmon. And the moose.

Home with a belly, head, and heart full. Good people, hard-working characters, fun-loving hosts to us city kids, they were patient as could be with our endless (many of mine foolish) questions. Where else would I be able to discuss how one shoots a 900 lb moose, butchers it, gets it into the boat and home to the freezer. With a woman, popping popcorn under a sign that says "honor system: 50 cents."

After seeing her sign in the window of her shop, "Sue's Knives", "I got my moose!" I had to ask her about it. When would I ever get such a chance? So, what kind of gun do you use to shoot a moose? "A pretty big one," laughed Sue.

Then she showed me her pictures. Unbelieveable, amazing. I have dined on moose sliders now, and have terrific homemade moose sausage in my fridge. A gift from the brother of our host.

And salmon? Wait until you hear about the salmon.

For now, read about how burgers are enjoying glory everywhere and peruse that gorgeous salmon menu.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

The Back Forty Boils Crab

Let others debate the “sustainable versus local” issues. Anyone graduating past Philosophy 101 knows that “versus” is a nice construct for debate, but a lousy rule for real life. To quote Violet, in the Pulitzer winning August: Osage County, “The world is round, get over it.” To quote me, go see August. Now.

Back to The Back Forty.

Chef Peter Hoffman once redefining casual dining at Savoy takes the concept in a new direction here. He takes it to the farm. And he takes the farm to Alphabet City. Right in the Lower East Side Manhattanites can dine on farm-to-table meals and shop a small farm market in-house.

He’s also bringing seasonality to the menu. From summer beef and corn to Maryland Crab Boil, diners can discuss with author Betty Fussell the issues of corn and beef. To a Maryland girl, nothing says summer like a pot of steamed crabs, a bottle of beer (okay, several) and a table covered in newspaper.

Marisa, Paul and everyone else in NYC this summer, get over there now. The beloved blue crabs have been diminishing for a while now and the news is grim for their future. Get ‘em while you can, even if it’s in a Manhattan restaurant.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

First it was square watermelon, now aphrodisiac watermelon. I guess there's nothing left for the remarkable melon to do.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

What's for dinner? Something quick, lean and tasty? How about buffalo?

In this week's post I share my intro to this native species that was nearly extinct. Why eat it then? Because by supporting the farmers who raise this buffalo, we are creating a market for its continued stewardship.

The folks at Wild Idea Buffalo keep grass-fed, free-roaming, hormone-free buffalo. They even harvest it sustainably. Read more about it here.

To learn about the Sustainable Harvest Alliance, see the website, here.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I'm off to Alaska next week, judging the Taste of Cordova and touring the Copper River area, Prince William Sound and learning about the wild salmon fisheries. Copper River Wild is the annual festival and I can't wait to bring back what I'll learn while there.

Until then, here is a terrific new twist on this favorite technique. Shiitake Salmon en Papillote* created by Chef Jim Nuetzi of The Capital Grille incorporates interesting Asian flavors for a killer dish. Shiitake mushrooms, fresh ginger and star anise all come into play.

With all the debate, we can still make delicious and healthy, responsible choices. More soon on how.

For the recipe, email me here and I'll send it along!

* see my blog for the recipe. For more ideas, see this article.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

When I saw these popsicles in NYMag.I thought hey, they stole my idea...! Remember the Granita? It just goes to show you that when an idea has arrived, it has arrived.

Here's another idea; A culinary calendar. There are some fantastic classes and events, some of them once in a lifetime opportunities...really not to be missed if possible. How about cooking classes with master chefs, top restauranteurs and sommeliers?

The first Slow Food Nation event in San Francisco? Got it.

Or, if a wedding is on your calendar (and your friends are really special AND you're really rich) why not stock their newlywed pantry? This is Dean and Deluca (whose catalog is fondly referred to as food porn in many households...) going over the top, once again. Follow the link to fully stocked luxurious pantry. Everything here for the lucky couple setting up house. Artisanal oils and vinegars, Italian sauces and pastas, herbs, arborio rice, finishing salts, pure maple syrup and pancake mix...it even includes a canvas and leather tote for that time in the distant future when a shopping trip will be needed.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

This website for specialty foods by mail order also has an eco-friendly line of palm dinnerware. Besides the salmon recipe contest (ends June 20) there's a mushroom recipe contest that has closed, but TONS of recipes are posted on their blog.

Check out the recipes and let me know if you find a good one, besides mine of course...

Posted by Jacqueline Church

This Top Ten list from Reuters caught my eye. But maybe that's because I don't have much of a view right now. Top Ten Restaurants with a view, includes two in Dubai and one in Beirut, one in Tel Aviv, one in Turkey. Looking at the recent world events, I'm thinking that adds up to about 50% of the list being located in countries that carry US State Dept Traveler's Advisories.

Besides, my rule-of-thumb, based on my highly scientfic two-week sprint across the US with a soon-to-be-ex boyfriend in a VW in the early 80's. Actually, I gained more than one life lesson from that trip, And at least one food rule. The food related lesson has to do with the restaurants that advertise their view. Avoid them. 9 times out of 10 they're hawking the view because the food stinks.

What the US State Dept doesn't tell you in those Traveler's Advisories is that 11 days in a Jetta with a soon-to-be-ex boyfriend is much more hazardous to your health and his than a trip to the Middle East. But, if you happen to be visiting Dubai or Beirut anytime soon, please let me know how you found the view and the food of the restaurants recommended by Reuters. Maybe the rule needs amending.

The other life lesson involved the hubris of two young New Yorkers learning what it means when Colorado State Troopers tell you NOT to attempt a mountain passage in a certain amount of snow without chains or an emergency requiring passage AND chains.

The corrollary is that if the diner waitress tells you her dog threw up from looking out the car window down the cliffs on that pass, it probably IS pretty steep....

Posted by Jacqueline Church

After my travels recently, I'm ready for the armchair style. Comfort of my own home, my own kitchen, my own bathroom, my own bed. Yes, I know, I am the one mooning on and on about waking up in a new place and the thrill of the unknown sights, smells and sounds that await me. It's still true. I'm just spent. From Vancouver. to Seattle, to Monterey to New Orleans to Nantucket - jeez - this is sounding rather ridiculous to whine about....did I mention the last six days were with parents? Did I mention we live in a loft...okay, enough said.

If you're researching your next trip, or just in a dreaming about traveling mood, I highly recommend Everett Potter's newsletter and this edition has a delightful interview with the author of the hot new book "The Saucier's Apprentice" Bob Spitz.

If you really want to do the culinary travel thing, which I wrote about here, then why not read Everett's interview and pick up Bob's book for the plane ride. At least then you'll arrive armed with some knowledge of the non-culinary type that can help you sail through the cooking school experience.

Bon voyage!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

While watching Alton Brown dive in the Kelp tank at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, I was reminded of Kombu. Kombu is a type of kelp the best of which comes from Hokkaido. It's use in making dashi or soup stock is becoming more widely known. It adds natural umami to dashi (or stock) and can be used to enhance the flavor of shrimp stock and more.

While listening to John Ash of Fetzer Vineyards in Hopland CA demonstrate how easy a delicious spring pea soup is to make, I was reminded of my stock tips. Not investment type but cooking type. Trust me, you don't want to be taking financial advice from me!

I always try to save shrimp shells for stock and to save stock in cubes in the freezer. Today's article offers trucs or tips and tricks from ways to freeze stock to two excellent techniquues for adding flavor depth with umami-rich ingredients.

Alton Brown often says "no unitaskers" and I agree. I share some of my favorite multi-use kitchen tips here. I wonder if he was harvesting a little umami-rich kelp while he was diving and doing his Darth Vader impression while teaching the aquarium guests around the tank about the importance of making sustainable seafood choices.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Some great new resources for going green, going blue and getting healthy.

You know I've just returned from Cooking for Solutions and I'm bursting with info to share. Here's a couple of quick hits:

Did you know that Weather.com has a new website with terrific science-based and myth-busting info on going green and learning about sustainable choices? Check out Forecast Earth.

Here's a great nutrition site - Kate Geazgan's ITNutrition.com Stay tuned for my upcoming interview with Kate and get ready for her book coming out in January.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Don't know what it says that I actually get and agree with the ex-hippies now leading major corporate entities applying some of my favorite corporate consulting principles to the issues of sustainable food...

I try to remind people to forget about New Year's Resolutions. Waste of time. Goals as vague as "eat better" have zero chance of being met. SMART goals are the way to go:

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Hotel Casa Munras - renovated old Mission style property with award winning tapas style restaurant, Esteban. Last night's late check-in nosh: local baby squid, chorizo, potatoes, cherry tomatoes and arugula and three perfect oysters, one glass of albarinho.

Walk through the town today to wharf. Forgot how loud seals can be!

In maritime visitors center near hundreds of years old lighthouse with working mechanism old guy in sun shades telling less older guy about the "kid" who used to live across the street. Kid's job was tying down the lashes on the dirigible. One day, a huge gust caught the dirigible and all the guys got thrust off into the wind. He was the last one hanging on. Fell 800' to his death. Phew. Happy story, Pops, thanks.

Today's infused water: orange and lemon slices, star anise, cinnamon stick and mint. Yummy.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Don't forget to check my Technorati Profile newly linked here...doh! You can see what else I'm tracking and writing about there.

On my way to Cooking for Solutions. Looking forward to what I'll be learning, rubbing elbows with chefs, stars, SlowFood mavens, conservations scientists, and more. Stay tuned ...

Posted by Jacqueline Church

It happens like that sometimes. You find yourself in the midst of coincidence after coincidence. Soon you're feeling almost as if you're in a house of mirrors.

So it was with my recent trip to Seattle. Coming on the heels of a family wedding in Vancouver (congratulations Sharon and Dave!), my husband wanted to re-discover Seattle for the first time, together. Prior to leaving, we had just gorged ourselves on fine stone crab.

Then, in Seattle, we saw terrific specimens everywhere. From Alaskan King Crab (careful) to Dungeness, to beautiful oysters. Pike's Place Market is a riot of fresh seafood and we couldn't resist going there every day. One morning when hunger was starting to fray our nerves, we stopped at Pure Foods and asked the friendly fishmonger, where he would go for lunch if he were not working. He thought about and told us to go to the restaurant 94 Stewart Street. He said "She's in here every morning and she's one of our toughest customers. You'll definitely get a good meal there." How right he was. Right across from the original Sur la Table, where I scored the perfect tongs, is 94 Stewart. Just take a look at their cheese menu alone. Of course we had crab there, too.

Then the May Saveur Magazine features guess what: crab. See various types of North American Crabs here.

On my way to Monterey for the Cooking for Solutions Event and it's seafood, seafood everywhere. Can't wait to share everything I'll be learning there.Top conservation scientists, award winning chefs, authors and foodies. And me. Wow. It's an amazing opportunity.

Tomorrow, before I leave, I think I'll have a big, fat steak.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Finding Japanese food in Chinatown

Adventures, disappointments (aiyaa!), and sometimes - bliss.

In our Chinatown most of the restaurants, even the Japanese ones, are owned and run by Chinese. There are relatively few Japanese in Boston, so if you're looking for real Japanese food, it can be a challenge.

Discover our gem of a Chinatown.

And speaking of real Japanese food, how many types of Japanese food can you name besides sushi? Have you dipped your chopsticks into Shabu Shabu yet? Boston is blessed with two Shabu Shabu restaurants: Shabu Zen and Kaze. Both are terrific. Both are run by Chinese.

So what, you may ask? Well for one thing, I miss the traditional Japanese greeting "Irashaimase!" Joyfully greeting diners entering Japanese restaurants is traditional. It's a warm welcome that is delightful. Other things I miss: oshiburi - hot towels to clean your hands before the meal. Good, hot tea. There are a million little things that can get lost in translation.

But let's focus on what works: the food! There is nothing more pleasurable than sharing a wonderful meal with good friends. Make the food superlative, add liberal amounts of sake/and or beer and you can begin to see what I'm getting at. Years ago I toasted my Mother not with the usual "Kampai!" but with my new Über-cool "Cin Cin!" picked up from South American friends.

Mom blanched. Who knew cin cin is Japanese slang for penis? Imagine how much fun my brother had when I took him to a favorite watering hole and he toasted me, with "Penis!" In front of my regular bartender, to whom I'd just introduced him as my brother.

Okay, so you've got the proper toast down. Now pick up the chopsticks or your little strainer basket and away we go...

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Truc: I never could find the word or an explanation for it in the cookbook in which I discovered it. Seem an odd editorial oversight to me, using a culinary term unknown to most and not defining it first. I checked with Merriam-Webster, Foodreference.com, a few other tried and true sources, and then gave up.

In the recipes, the word "truc" preceded helpful notes on technique or timing. Nothing so dazzling that the origin of the mysterious term held my attention for too long.

Then, I came upon an article on cooking schools and culinary vacations. We know culinary travel is here to stay. The article that caught my eye: A Cook's Tour in Provence.

Linda Danneberg describes a six day tour of the French countryside, dicing and braising along the way. "Carole is a good-humored and accessible teacher, her recipe instructions punctuated with a wealth of helpful chef's trucs (technical tricks and tips.) We are juicing lemons..." Then she goes on to share the instructor's truc for juicing a lemon: slice at about 3/4 inch down, slice the flesh of the lemon into a tic-tac-toe grid, squeeze, juice, no seeds.

Mystery solved: truc is a fancy-pants cheffie word for a trick or tip.

Though I have noted the worrisome trend of cookbooks being "dumbed down" in 75th Anniversary of Joy of Cooking, it still seems we could hope for a balance. Enough guidance to understand the terms used, without having to explain that greasing a pan means only the inside.

To learn about a unique cooking school in Ireland and a terrific book about a family adventure in food self-sufficiency read Culinary Travel Meets Slow Food. Both provide a host of trucs for traveling or homebound cooks.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

You think sustainable food choices and environmental stewardship have nothing to do with baseball? Nothing to do with food?

If you serve over:

• 20,600 hot dogs
• 5,800 bags o' peanuts
• 4,800 sausage and pepper subs
• 3,500 slices

and other things like crab rolls, lobster rolls, fruit cups...on opening day alone...

...wouldn't it make a difference if your paper products were made of recycled material? What about the sustainability of the seafood? How local is the fruit? The potatoes used for 3,000 pounds of fries?

How far do things have to be trucked to Fenway Park? What's the environmental impact now?

Read about how the Sox are going green, and how sourcing and other practices make ARAMARK a leader, here.

The Red Sox owners are making fans, community members and partners proud. Tip o' the cap to you, Sox!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Okay - first things first: you know I loved, loved, loved the food at Momofuku. But the Big Brother complacency "surveillance is okay if it's only because our insurance company asks us to do it" bothers me. I cannot see anything good coming out of rolling over for insurance companies. Ever. And then there's the civil liberties erosion...you can read about the issue and the restaurant's response here. But let me get back to David Chang's food. It's pretty remarkable that any critic on one visit would issue a four star rating but this is exactly what Adam Platt of New York Magazine did. Whether it's Momofuku or Momofuku-ko...I say, go, go, go...just know someone's watching.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Umami is the so-called "Fifth Taste" - discovered by a Japanese scientist some decades ago. Many chefs and home cooks alike know it, we've just never been vindicated until recently. Interesting how knowledge accumulates in culture...

Anyway, the cool thing is that you can enhance the flavor of nearly everything you cook with a natural umami-rich salt. I wrote about it here and shared links to the favored cookbook by David and Anna Kasabian, The Fifth Taste.

The Kasabian's recommend keeping these Umami-rich ingredients in your pantry, along with Eric's Umami Salt:

• Soy sauce,
• worcestershire sauce,
• Asian fish sauce,
• canned tomatoes or tomato paste in a tube,
• parmigiano-reggiano, dried shiitake mushrooms.

I'd add Marmite to the list. Swirl a bit into a soup for an instant additional depth of flavor.

Eric Gower is a blogger, chef and writer to know. His Breakaway Cook blog has new posts regularly that include familiar dishes with new twists that add flavor in healthful ways.

Try this Umami Salt as a way to add savory depth to your dinner. Similar to other finishing salts, this one adds a lot of oomph to your food.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Momofuku-Ko or child of Momofuku, as we might translate it....lovingly and rapturously described here by the Wandering Eater. This is the latest love child of David Chang, head chef at the happy temple of pork.

If my review singing its praises, or your perusal of Eater's dinner, don't have you drooling, then I can't help you. Just listen to the descriptions of the tastes, textures and the ingredients combining thrills with comfort. You can't beat it with a stick, or a rice paddle...leaves me wanting Mo-Mo-Mo...

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I couldn't help but point out that porn star turned author, Nina Hartley Sex Guide Author named Incanto as one of her favorite restaurants.

I bring you this interesting little bit because I think it's good for her and good for Chris Cosentino. Also because, honestly, the Head to Tail eating trend is right in the cross-hairs of the ethical eating and fine dining dialog today.

Chef Cosentino makes a very compelling case for offal as an ethical choice if not obligation and he shares my disdain for the pseudo-ethics of PETA activists.

What about the strip club that caters to vegans, you ask? Hm...using naked women to sell veganism? Using tofu to sell sex? Vaginas and Vegans - let's just call it like we see it, hm? Even the New York Times is picking up this story.

Well, let's just say I'm not going there any time soon. But I WILL get to Incanto next time I'm in the Bay Area and you should too.

Find out why here.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

A new look at PGTips.

I've written about the afternoon ritual of High Tea. PG Tips is a British favorite tea and tourists all over the world (even on the beach!). I've never been inclined to seek it out.

One Monkey changed my mind. The company is seeking sustainability certification from the Rainforest Alliance.

There's a cute little monkey in a heroic movie clip here. It's good news, put the kettle on and read about high tea, and what PG Tips is doing to make sustainability a reality.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Sara Roahen approaches the world through food and drink, learning about a place and its people over a shared meal. In my experience, this is one of the truest ways to connect with people and learn about a place. I'm always very grateful when I'm able to share a meal with a new friend or a total stranger, as other people call them.

Roahen's book, Gumbo Tales, is an excellent way to familiarize yourself with a city that is perhaps more important than any other to understanding the US, our people, and our culture. Jazz was born in New Orleans and the food rocked before "bam!" was invented. Emeril is just one of the many chefs who have donated generously and worked tirelessly to keep their beloved, if adopted, city's food on the map. There are culinary and hospitality training programs, an edible school yard and even a library branch in development to celebrate New Orleans food and food culture.

To learn more about Southern Food check out the Southern Foodways Alliance and it's wonderful oral history project, as well as the rebuilding of a New Orleans icon, Willie Mae's Scotch House.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I was tickled to note the observations of the New York Times critic were so similar to mine. From the music selection to the strength of the husband and wife team, he a chef, she a sake sommelier.

Bruni used a set of criteria that included overall enjoyment, the experience, and of course, the food. Today's unveiling of Bruni's top two picks reminded me to revise my image of vegetarian. It's hard to do. Ubuntu, the restaurant coming in second to O Ya is about as glamourous as you could imagine and is vegetarian. Of course, the chef is not and neither is he averse to ingredients like butter and cream.

As nutritionists will tell you, it's not about deprivation, but moderation. Choosing when and where in your diet you will have the tasty things that are really good for you and the ones that are just tasty.

Take a look at the write up here where Bruni does his New Yorker's view of the world thing and explains his adventure. The standard by which all other places are compared, of course. Perhaps only Tokyo can argue the point (they have more stars). At least if you're counting Michelin stars. But that's a story for another day. It seems clear that fine food is not solely the provence of New York City, which must now acknowledge that Paris and Tokyo both are on the same map.

To learn more about O Ya and omakase meals check my earlier posts. Here, And, learn about Omakase,here. Interesting to note that Tim Cushman trained under top Japanese chefs.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Just in case anyone missed it, I wanted to humbly point out two hot spots getting much deserved recognition. If you haven't yet sent it to your foodie friends, send it now, show them you're in the know.

Remember O ya and Cochon? O ya is our Boston new comer serves incredible sushi is in the running for the number one or two spot on Frank Bruni's current series on the top ten restaurants outside of NYC that serious foodies must try.

I've been so lucky to have eaten so well recently, I'm practically still in a food coma. Head is full of ideas, desk is stacked with notes, clippings, books, more notes. I promise to start getting this out of my head, off my desk and to you.

Til then, you can peruse a quick slide show I posted on my other blog here. And if you get a chance to see Bourdain's show on New Orleans, it's worth a viewing. Very interesting to see this episode before my last trip to Nola, then after. I'm glad he got some points just right. Other points, I'm defensive about the chosen portrayal of the city. Who knows how choices got made, by whom and what was left on the cutting room floor.

Know this: the city is ready to show you a great meal or several great meals, each day for as long as you visit. There's still a lot left to do to help the city rebuild, but there are also lots of good people doing work that doesn't make the news. I'll do my best to bring you some of these stories here and on my own blog. For now, here's an article in a travel website that might whet your appetite.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Vegetarian Cajun - didn't think there was such a thing.

If I still have any readers left who are vegetarian or just not so enamored of pork as I, I want to (ahem) throw you a bone. On good recommendation from new friends (well, old friend and new wife) and adopted New Orleanians, Stacey & Dan. They introduced me to a local place called Coop's and shared their insights and reflections on their beloved city.

I purchased this book at New Orleans “Kitchen Witch” bookstore in the French Quarter. It's a fun, funky book store as you might guess by the name of it. They carry a large variety of Cajun/Creole and hard to find books.

I have a ham hock from Allan Benton, a piece of andouille, and a pot of red beans simmering on the stove, so I won't tell you I'm cooking from Simon's book just yet. But, for anyone looking for authentic Cajun flavors and dishes that are meat-free this comes recommended from people I trust.

Good Time Eatin' in Cajun Country – Cajun Vegetarian Cooking by Donna Simon

And now, back to our regularly scheduled program of pork.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Sure there's the two James Beard Foundation awards: Best New Restaurant in 2007 & Best Chef South. Frank Bruni's “Coast to Coast: Restaurants that Count” (one of ten) 2008. If you count Chef Link's Herbsaint there's also Gourmet Magazine's 2006 “America's Top 50 Restaurants” and numerous honors like “top ten” by Times-Picayune, New Orleans Magazine's Best Chef, and so on.

But, how many of their peers can also claim the honor of winning the freshly minted Golden Clog? This year at the South Beach Wine & Food Festival (note the ordering of the nouns, please) two well-known, provocative and generally well-lubricated characters, Michael Ruhlman (author, journalist) and Anthony Bourdain (author, host of No Reservations) presented the First Annual Golden Clog Awards in various categories including:

• The Fergus – For Greatest achievement in pork, and/or guts;
• The Alton – For being on Food Network and yet, somehow managing to Not Suck;

Cochon's Golden Clog honor was presented for achievement in the category “The Crazy Bastard Special Achievement Award - For the chef/operator who did the most insanely wonderful or heroic ****ing thing in recent Memory.”

Cochon's people are the kind that started early on the work of cleaning up and serving NoLA, those on the receiving and the providing sides of the table. The community that develops and deepens over a shared meal is improved, in some measure, if that meal is a pig roast.

They fed me a divine meal on my first trip back since Katrina; introduced me to a great Bourbon, a new heritage breed hog (Mulefoot), and did it all with style and grace.

Who can blame me for blowing kisses to the open kitchen on my way out?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

StarChefs.com is celebrating their South Florida Rising Star Chef Award winners at a not-to-be-missed walk-around tasting gala featuring the Rising Star Chefs' signature dishes, wine pairings, fine Champagne, exciting cocktails, and live music. Monday, March 3, 2008.

VIP Reception 6pm - 7pm

Gala 7pm - 9:30pm

Trump International Club House West Palm Beach

3505 Summit Boulevard , West Palm Beach, FL

Tickets: $150 per person; $200 VIP admission includes a private pre-event reception with vintage Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'Or Champagne, plus early entrance to the gala. Reserve today at

www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2008/south_florida/index.shtml

One of my favorites, Chef Michael Bloise is being honored - get your fabulous self over there and say hi for me!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Real scoop on pasta all'amatriciana at Delicious Italy. At least according to one source...

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Make yourself or your sweetie a quick saute. Lobel's, a terrific family butcher shop and online purveyor has a very good, straightforward tutorial on how to Saute.

Saute - literally to Jump in the pan - is a classic technique that is well worth mastering. Most home cooks may know it already but understanding the basic steps can help any of us improve our techniques.

If you are not inclined or inspired to saute something - how about this VD idea?

ZipCar sent an email asking for our best Valentine's Day ideas: here is mine:

Thanksgiving does have a special meal and rates as my favorite day. Your email inspired me. How about this:

Zip over to a video store pick up The Princess Bride and enjoy over a big bowl of Spaghetti and Meatballs - homage to Vizzini (Wallace Shawn) "Never go in against a Sicilian when death is on the line!"

I think I'll execute this VD plan with my "TRWOO Love", and husband of 3+ years, Caleb.

Cheers!

PS drop a line for my killer meatball tips. They're so good they made my friend channel his Sicilian grandma and swoon in her native tongue!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Uh oh. It seems some Italian food authorities have decided to settle the debate about what the definitive version of Pasta all'Amatriciana is. Lots of luck. If you have a chance to watch Jamie Oliver, the Naked Chef, in his travels through Italy, you know that each village has its own passel of Nonna's each proclaiming her version of fill-in-the-blank is the correct version of the dish.

Why would this dish be any different?

My husband and I said a fitting farewell to the year of the pig with two porcine prizes: Jamon Iberico and Guanciale. More about Jamon later, but for now, we're in Italy. Central Italy. I began to look around. First, I found I was misspelling guanciale adding an “i' where it didn't belong (Guaniciale) and my husband made it sound like the WWII Solomon Islands war zone (Guadalcanal.)

Right. Okay, get the spelling right and the research goes much more smoothly. Still, I was relieved to discover that I am not alone in the debate about authentic Amatriciana sauce. Remember that Italy was formed of independent states and principalities that were occupied or traversed by so many cultures and armies. Even today, one would not hear an Italian say he is “Italian” as often as you would hear him say he was “Tuscan” or “Calabresi” or “Venetian”.

The food of Italy represents both the influences of other cultures as well as the diversity of the land. Both these vary region by region. So it is with a dish like Amatriciana. Some claim it origniates in Rome, others say it is Umbrian in origin. Some say garlic and onions, others say no garlic. What they all start with is guanciale.

Here's my take.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

The frog speaks truth. Remember when food was fun? I try hard to make the right choices for my health, for the planet's health. It seems that bad news hits us daily. This week I bring you more - sorry! In Mercury and Maguro I cover the news of the New York Times undercover investigation of sushi spots in Manhattan. Turns out, it's been well-documented across the country. Our sushi may be less healthy for us than we thought. And canned tuna didn't fare too well, either.

Today, the Times attempts to salve the wound created by their earlier report, in Taking Worry Off the Plate.

"Also among the sea creatures with the lowest known levels of mercury are shrimp, oysters, clams, sardines, anchovies and herring, as well as the somewhat less exciting hake, tilapia, crayfish and whiting."

First off, the article really didn't take a lot of worry off my plate. More doom and gloom. Second, I take exception to the characterization of hake as less exciting. I had some wonderful hake this evening. Depending on which article you read this week, it's either safe or not. But it was delicious.

Quick Hake Dinner - Hold the Mercury

Season some flour and coat the fillet. Add butter and olive oil to a hot pan, then add the fish. Let brown before turning. Remove to a plate. Add a bit more butter and/or oil, to deglaze, a bit of the seasoned flour, some fresh chopped parsely, lemon juice and rind, wine. Lower heat. When the sauce begins to reduce, remove from heat swirl in cold butter to emulsify. Pour over hake. ENJOY!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Kindai, an aquacultural tuna being raised by a Japanese University, may provide some hope. But, aquaculture has its own problems and the demand will surely outstrip supply of this new, pricey product. Megu, in NYC, is one sushi bar that uses Kindai.

Kindai tuna, developed at Kinki University in Japan is shipped with an “authenticity declaration” covering its life history, from its 20 days of gestation to its diet in an open-water facility to the material on netting surrounding it. It is said to contain far lower levels of mercury.

Remember the "zero toxin" tilapia? I think we've got to wait and see about some of these efforts.

Wegmans supermarkets and Legal Sea Foods (both East Coast, US) reject fish that exceeds the FDA limits.

Don't forget that the Seafood Watch guide is now downloadable to your phone or PDA.

More recipes and resources are collected here.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Though some of us begin to suffer "green fatigue" one can still make a reasonable effort to eat well and eat locally, sustainably, organically...you know the drill.

Here's a new tool I discovered to help you find local produce by area and season. I plugged in Massachusetts and Late January

Leeks and Kale are two items that came up. I found some Mache at my Trader Joe's and made some wonderful soup that could be made with either of these in place of Mache. The amount of information coming across the telly, the monitor or the radio daily about the best ways to eat is staggering to me. I've rarely been a "bright line" kind of thinker, eater anyway.

So, the mache was not probably grown locally. The potatoes were. And the distribution methods many small, local farms may use can actually mean that eating locally raised foods may have a larger environmental impact than a smaller one. Oy vey.

I did enjoy my NZ Sauvignon Blanc (Thanks Joe!) with my Nantucket Bay scallops and my soup this morning was the last I'd made with the locally grown Thanksgiving turkey, thawed out and spruced up with fresh veg.

Leeks and Kale, as well as potatoes are all according to my new tool, able to be had from Rhode Island growers. Not too bad an impact and pretty tasty, too.

Check how easy a warming winter soup Vichyssoise is to make. And if it pleases you, seek out locally grown ingredients and enjoy!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

They're up to again. Trying to eat right, eat sustainable, just eat what you ordered remains a challenge in Florida. So much so that the attorney general is going after distributors, including big guys like Sysco. This article, "Something Fishy" appeared on MSNBC today.

Last year I brought you this story on restaurants in Florida serving Tilapia but charging for Grouper. See "Tale of Two Fish."

What can you do as a consumer?

1. Know your fishmonger.

2. Ask your restaurant server, manager, chef, owner.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Some Mexican chocolate from local boys at Taza found its way into my cabinet. There were also the bumper crop of dried chiles from my annual California visits. Clearly, Mole was in order. The time to make it just didn't seem to happen.

Then, I saw this article in the Times about Puebla and the Mole festivals...and then, ran into a friend who is chef owner of a Mexican restaurant specializing in regional cuisines. Remember when we thought Italian food was all spaghetti and meatballs? We are just beginning to understand Veracruz differs from Oaxaca.

So the Mole adventure has been dancing around the edges of my culinary curiosity, when I began making spice blends for holiday gifts. Out came the chiles, out came the blender, what the heck since everything in the kitchen was getting used anyway...

Mole Coloradito - Can't wait to make more - this time with Turkey!

Here's another good Mole resource: La Pagina de la Salsa mole.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Ratatouille is a fabulous movie that captures the power of food to transport. It's also a dish from the South of France which exemplifies the braising technique.

One of the chief characters in the movie is the critic Anton Ego. He notes that critics make their living by thrashing restauranteurs and chefs. In a delightful life-imitating-art drama unfolding in Minneapolis, critic Andrew Zimmern who can't be bothered to get up from his desk to review 16 new restaurants is taken to task by a chef and restaurant owner.

It's a rare glimpse into the world of restaurant reviews and an example of thee "man bites dog" headline we salivate for. Click here for my full opinion on the saga.

To read about braising and how it works, see this week's column: The Beauty of Braising.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Japanese food making news again. Umami was discovered by a Japanese scientist in the '20s but science thought the book was closed. Four tastes we could sense were defined as sweet, sour, salty, bitter. Umami the fifth taste is now widely accepted to be correctly, a fifth taste. Call it savory. Call it good.

I was reminded of it at my O-makase sushi dinner in Boston's Leather District last night. An artful chef will draw out every umami-flavor he or she can.

The book, Proust was a Neuroscientist is the talk of NPR and foodies, and is fascinating for anyone who loved science and loves understanding how disciplines accept new discoveries. With Proust's iconic Madeline on the cover and discussion of Escoffier's discovery of umami-building techniques, it's really a great read. He does make one shocking error referring to "fond" as "frond", which for a book so promoted as a thinking foodie's book, this is rather jarring.

Anyway, I thought it was time to let you in on the advanced sushi world. Enjoy.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

But I've been wrong before. I was the one that said CDs would never take off because people wanted the tactile experience of a record album and the warm sound that you get from them.

Now it appears that a NYC restaurant is trying to emulate the Dark Dining experience but with blindfolds and performance art. I got excited but the more I read, the less authentic it seemed.

This is the post about it - you really only have to read the comments to see it's the best and worst of what the big apple has to offer.

Ick.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

This article in Fortune Magazine tells about recognition this rock star chef continues to garner. One of the challenges now that people are gaining knowledge of the impact of their food choices. The interesting dilemmas keep asking us to think about the trade off between organic or local for example. Farmed versus wild caught.

It was Chef Seaver who first showed me how to bake fish in salt. Do try this at home, it's a fantastic way to prepare good, fresh, fish.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

First - talking about cookbooks or cooking the books you must check this out. How about a book you must actually cook to read? Thanks to Joseph Hayes for the tip off - this is wild.

This week I wrote about a couple of exciting gift ideas but I think the chocolate-orange cookies I made tonight might be behind my enthusiastic generation of more and more and more ideas. I can't sleep. You benefit. I'm good with that. Someone should.

I might make those cookies for gifts. This year I've decided I'm making homemade gifts. Don't laugh. I know when I hear "homemade gifts" I automatically flashback to a lumpy ashtray I pinched from some clay and painted when I was like 8. It sat on my Dad's desk at work for ages. Who knows, maybe he still has the thing...

I'm talking about something a bit more upscale this year, so those of you on my list who are reading this, don't worry!

So let me tell you about a few more great books to put on your list:

• Raising the Salad Bar -Catherine Walthers, Lake Isle Press - Beautifully photographed and terrifically useful advice and instructions. Beautiful salads for all courses and seasons.
• Murray's Cheese Handbook - For any lover of cheese, this is a must have, easy to use reference book. It's slim and fun.
• Red, White, and Drunk all Over - Natalie MacLean's book mentioned in an earlier column is a well reviewed fun reference for wine lovers.
• Romancing the Vine - Alan Tardi - a lusty real life story of Alan's departure from Manhattan and the restaurant life to Tuscany.

Okay, that's a start. Now get going. It's almost December you know!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Truffles

My friends at Delicious Italy report the official truffle season is about to begin with the Annual International Truffle auction on December 1 in Florence, Italy.

Rumours abound that a huge specimen was dug up near Pisa.

Mmm mmm mmm.

Don't forget the other kind of truffles - chocolate ones. And my easy, easy recipe for them.

Roasting update:

The wand works. If you prefer stuffing to dressing (that is to say stuffing inside your chicken or turkey) this is well worth the small investment.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

How to Carve a Turkey

Finally, a good demo of a butcher's technique. Worth a couple minutes of your time if you haven't mastered this yet. Don't forget about good gravy.

My pie dough is in the fridge resting. The cranberry sauce is done. Green beans are blanched. Vegetables are chopped for dressing/stuffing. Compound butter is done.

One more deadline tonight then it's finally time to relax!

Have a great Thanksgiving everyone. See you on the flipside...

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Angels' Spice

The answer to the question "what is the best new ingredient you've found?" FENNEL POLLEN.

Be warned, it is expensive. But, just as saffron is expensive due to the labor involved - all those stamens plucked from the flowers. So too is harvesting of fennel pollen. I had images of workers with teensy-tiny brushes stroking the legs of bees. Luckily, it's not that difficult, but it is still quite a lot of work for this lovely spice.

Roast pork, roast chicken, roast turkey, fish, compound butters...I'm hooked. Note to self: find cheaper habits. I roasted a chicken with herbes de Provence and fennel pollen. Rack of pork with bread crumb fennel pollen crust.

One of those clever editors over at Saveur, I think it was, said it best: "If angels sprinkled one spice from their wings, it would be fennel pollen."

Stuffing

The answer to the question "what is the difference between stuffing and dressing?" is that stuffing is cooked inside the turkey and dressing is baked in a separate dish.

I like to ensure there's plenty for late-night snacking and next day leftovers, so I usually make a large baking dish of dressing. Since I discovered the roasting wand, this year I'm doing both. Isn't life grand when you get everything you want? Moist stuffing basted with the roasting juices and baked dressing with crispy edges.

Try apple chunks and Italian sausage. Jarred chestnuts eliminate the need for peeling. Herb and mushroom is a nice umami-rich combo. Sage, cornbread...mmm. And don't forget GOOD GRAVY - You can do it! I show you how here.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

First off, if you're thinking heritage turkey, read this post.

Second, if you haven't brined before, I recommend brining a chicken before you test your skills on the Thanksgiving guests.

Third, consider whether you really need to add the step. Not only is it one more item to add to your "to do" list, but you'll have one more day of negotiating around the bird, in its brine, in the refrigerator.

I've tried it once, and failed. Yes, it happens. Blame it on unclear instructions and a harried cook. Add those two together and it equals disaster. Kosher birds are already salted so you definitely don't want to brine if you've chosen Kosher.

Suppose you do wish to brine - here are some key steps and ingredients:

• Balance of salinity to water is key. 1 C salt per gallon of water is the ratio. Test salinity with an egg. It should float.
• Begin with 1 C Kosher salt, 1 C brown sugar.
• Add spices to taste - bay leaves, black peppercorns, candied ginger, juniper berries, fennel, clove, allspice.
• Cider, bourbon, gin, vermouth - some for the cook, some for the bird...
• Do not brine too long, the texture of the meat will change.
• Brine must be brought to a boil, then thoroughly cooled. Dilute with a gallon of cold water.
• Turkey must be completely submerged in brine for 1-2 hours. Up to 4 for a very large turkey.
• Rinse and pat dry before roasting, do not salt the pan gravy.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

First two items on the top of the "No way" holiday gift list.

Someone once said "Reality is a hallucination brought on by lack of alcohol." Must have been desperate times in halls of Waring's product development department. I swear, I am NOT making this up:

Pro Electric Martini Shaker.

Serious. It looks like a slim coffee maker and comes with two buttons for, you guessed it, shaken or stirred. The 20 oz stainless steel shaker has a 1 oz cap for measuring. Price: $190.00 It can be had on sale for half that. Better yet: spend $40 on a premium gin and come over to my house. I'll show you how to use one of my shakers and we'll have nibbles and drinks on the counter space not taken up by that ridiculous object.

My gravy is good, but...

Anything from the NYTimes Magazine slideshow "The Get".

I'm sure you're wondering what to put on the perfect $15,300 table? A $9,000 gravy boat, of course. My gravy is really good, but I'd still have th think twice before spending $275 or even $85 for any one of the three pictured.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

They're he-e-e-e-e-e-r-re - those "where the heck's my Xanex" moments: THE HOLIDAYS.

Banish your "I'm not Martha Stewart" anxiety with my good, solid recipes, tips and plans. First: our reminders for keeping peace in the family here.

Then, review the index of articles on holiday meals, gift ideas, Thanksgiving recipes including the best sweet potatoes ever, spice rub for your turkey, chocolate truffles, gravy and more. Here's an index to holiday help.

This week I am thrilled to bring you noted wine expert and award winning author Natalie MacLean's top five tips for pairing Thanksgiving food and wine. Her website is stuffed like a turkey with great advice on wine and includes a food and wine pairing tool.

Fall is many things, the snap in the air, the lengthening of the shadows and the love of friends and family - I relish them like a big old sweater. Bake a pie, a simple apple cake, or a Galette. Roast a beautiful squash, toast and spice the seeds. Pomegranates are in season now, enjoy this magnificently healthy, sensuously delicious treat while they last.

We've just begun planning our holidays around here. After my father-in-law's battle with cancer and two other friends' illnesses, I've re-newed my commitment to sharing the true spirit of the holidays. I am hosting my beloved "Procrastinators', Refugees', and Orphans' Thanksgiving". I think I'll buy a local turkey this year.

I'm adopting a "Just Say No" attitude to all the retail pressures. The drumbeat of "buy, buy, buy." Thinking homemade truffles, homemade spice rubs in beautiful little jars, you know gifts of the kitchen are gifts of the heart. I just really like the thought of useful gifts. As Martha says: "It's a Good Thing."

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Sustainable seafood means deprivation right? We can't have our Dover Sole or our Chilean Seabass (Patagonian Toothfish, in reality) so we want to pout and stomp our feet. Wah wah wah. Okay, maybe you didn't, but I did.

Then I discovered swordfish. Wow. Who knew it could be moist and delicious? Not I.

With the help of a good fishmonger, a smart husband and some terrific herbs - I've created a glammed up Salade Niçoise with my new Swordfish Provençal taking the place of the more familiar tuna.

Herbes de Provençe make a huge impact. Some artisanal olive oil, good Nicoise olives, heirloom tomatoes and we are in business.

Tips:

1. Get seafood smarts delivered to your phone or in a pocket card.
2. Use soft bread slice to remove coffee scent from your grinder and you can grind your own Herbes de Provençe blend.
3. Use the HdP blend to roast game, make braised shortribs or delicious swordfish.
4. If you are not in the mood for a Salade Composee, serve your swordfish over cous cous or le petit epautre (farro) or spelt.

Homemade spice blends like these are terrific hostess gifts or holiday gifts. Make your own and put into a beautiful container or buy some and wrap with a new kitchen utensil. Penzey's is one of the best known spice purveyors. Check their site for locations and on-line sales.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

This video of Top Chef's knife skills is pretty cool.

Important tips -

Curl your fingertips under to avoid slicing them along with your vegetables (cucumber)

Steady round objects before slicing (the squash)

Slowly works as well as quickly. (watch him start the meat slicing)

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Many of you are aware it's National Seafood Month and for those in my world, it's National Sustainable Seafood Month.

Check out Cooking for Solutions. This is the annual chef-driven event at the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Program. Their website has lots of information including ways to involve kids in thinking about these issues. There's even a quick quiz for adults. I didn't get a perfect score which I share to tell you this is an opportunity to learn together how choices we make every day can add up to make a difference. For the record, I was not a floundering flounder, either.

Darina Allen a Slow Food guru and leader in sustainable foods movement, and Alton Brown, whom many of you know from Feasting on Asphalt and Good Eats FN shows, are both on tap for this coming event in May 2008.

• It's not too late to enter your recipe in the "Teach a Man to Fish" event. Share your work with the world and show off!
• If you're looking for inspiration, check out Langoustines and Cockles.
• Court bouillon is a poaching liquid used primarily to poach seafood and fish. Water is just simmered with onion, carrot, celery (mirepoix) bay leaf, wine, peppercorns, lemon. The Langoustines added depth of flavor and I added some red pepper flake, some green peppercorns. I strained the stock through cheescloth then froze it for my next chowder or risotto.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Fall is great for Red Sox fans, Patriots Fans possibly even Celtic fans this year...but it's also fabulous for apples. Tarte Tatin? Baked apples? Apple crisp? The trouble is that they're so tasty, it's hard to keep them around long enough to bake them.

The English used to say "apple before bed, doctor begs his bread" sound familiar? An apple a day...well it turns out to be true. With no fat, no cholesterol and only 80 calories per apple they deliver vitamins A, C and great fiber. The satisfaction of biting into a crisp, slightly tart fall apple is nearly impossible to beat.

Don't forget your melon baller is an easy way to remove the core. I'm posting pics of some old and new varieties to see if there are any apple afficianados out there....

bright copper kettles and warm woolen mittens...you can have 'em. I'll take an Opalescent heirloom apple.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

If you're not ready to plan just yet, get out and enjoy the Autumn air. A great day for a walk. A great day for chocolate. How about both? A chocolate walking tour. Holidays are almost upon us...there's actually Christmas stuff in stores before Halloween!

I thought I'd have a nibble of chocolate with my tea and put a little bug in your ear...start practicing some of your holiday entertaining recipes now.

Last night I made a turkey breast roast and mashed potatoes. Remember my Thanksgiving tips? Boiled Yukon Golds in chicken broth. Do you suffer from F.O.G. (Fear of Gravy?) Pies your weakness? Remember holiday tips are here, and questions are always welcome.

Perfect Pie Crust

Gourmet Chocolate Truffles

And don't forget my tips for keeping holiday peace.

And here's my Ten Point Plan for Procrastinators and my Thanksgiving Cheats.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

We got our start together in this bi-valve obsession in Paris. Wandering through the 8th arrondisement we happened upon one of the oldest oyster bars in Paris. A perfect opportunity to introduce my girl, Jesse, to the joys of oysters. There are few things that evoke such joy as a perfect oyster to an oyster-lover. It's ancient, primal, and in my humble opinion, something to surrender to.

Now we get together for lunch and often oysters are on the menu. The other day we decided to walk down to James Hook and grab a couple dozen and learn how to shuck them ourselves. So, 2 dozen oysters, 2 dozen clams and most of a bottle of wine later, we were happy and exhausted. Thanks Michael!

Clams, we discovered, are really, really strong and stubborn. Jasper White, our local seafood legend, says if you let them rest an hour, they relax. I'll try that next time.

If you're in the Boston area - head down to The Wellfleet Oyster Fest. If you're not, look for a good fishmonger or oyster bar and enjoy a bracing taste of life.

More good news: not only are they good for you, they're a sustainable seafood choice, too.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

To highlight issues of sustainability - I decided to host a Blog Event. Since October is National Seafood Month, I thought, I'm going to make it National Sustainable Seafood Month. In order to keep posted, swim over to my other blog and read about what this means.

Send a recipe. Maybe using one of our techniques we covered here, like Cooking en Papillote with a Sustainable Seafood Choice in place of the usual?

Keep checking here as we'll have chefs providing their entries here. I'll keep info flowing and recipes coming. Submit yours too!

It's also national kitchen and bath month. I'll be sharing some tips for anyone thinking of buying a new dishwasher, refrigerator, microwave or range. What features are useless? Which are essential for a cook?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Don't forget as you begin your fall travel plans (or spring and summer if you're down under) to incorporate tips and ideas from my Global Gourmet section. Culinary vacations have many themes and faces and newer options are popping up every day. Check out my latest find: Dining with the Dutch.

More info to follow...

If you're traveling to the Twin Cities (ie Minneapolis and St. Paul) you'll have to review my whirlwind weekend eating tour. Thanks to my niece and her boyfriend, we wined and dined in style. Nothing like lumbering and groaning on your way back to the airport.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Food conveys memories, good and bad. It sears them into the most interior places we have. Incites passion, heated debate. Is proxy for our values, represents real or imagined character flaws and admirable traits. Read about how Australia is literally dying of thirst - while the Prime Minister is hand-wringing. At the same time, the restaurant and chef community in Australia are developing and protecting a thriving community with a focus on sustainable resources.

Then there's dessert.

September 11 is a good time to remember. One thing is the fragility of life. How we live it , daily, is perhaps worthy of deeper appreciation than we often give it.

Sometimes, food reminds of us our connection to others, our past, our history. Sometimes it is that bridge to a new place, literal or figurative.

The trite advice to "eat dessert first" seems perhaps more poignant today. Anyway, it was dessert that began my journey to Australia...

Pavlova is the dessert many Australians and New Zealanders adore. Sarah Kagan on Epi-Log August 29 The Perfect Summer Dessert.

Here is the basic structure of a Pavlova:

A meringue-like base, slathered with whipped cream, topped with fruit.

The fun/challenge is the marshmallow-center-meringue-edged base. Should it crack? Should it be soft when done? Can you make it on a humid day? What if it turns orange? Drama aplenty.

Created for a famous ballerina, the lightness is said to be an homage to the lightness of her dance. (If the sweetness is also a reflection of her, she'd be either completely vapid or completely evil. Girls, you know what I mean.)

Anyway, further dispatch from Australia shortly. For now, get your eggs and mixer ready...

Posted by Jacqueline Church

The pot that started it all

About two weeks ago, I came home from some errands sweaty and exhausted and my husband stood next to a box on the counter looking like kid at Christmas. “It’s here!”

“What’s here?” I asked, unable to recall anything I’d ordered. “It’s a surprise! For you!” I could tell by his excitement, this required a quick cooling shower and a gathering of my senses.

Adequately spiffed up for the momentous surprise, I tackled the large, heavy box. Somewhere my sweetie found this gorgeous Staub Bouillabaise pot on an insane close-out deal. He knew I'd love it and be even more thrilled at the deal he got.

It sits proudly on my stove and I’ve done two gumbos, two chowders and a scampi. It’s a perfect blend of form and function, beautiful design and perfect features any cook appreciates. Cast iron heats quickly and evenly and retains heat very well. Enamel coating makes cleanup a breeze and the graded blue enamel and fish knob make it elegant enough to serve in.

One of the innovations that cause chefs such as Thomas Keller and authorities such as Gourmet Magazine, The New York Times, Food Arts to gush is the Staub’s spiked lids. Little nubs cause steam to condense and redistribute into the pot ensuring beautifully moist food.

This wonderful gift got me thinking about Julia Child and bouillabaisse and how the right tools makes cooking so much more enjoyable. If you haven’t yet read “My Life in France,” and you're a fan of biographies, or of Julia do get a copy. In it, Julia recalls learning to prepare bouillabaisse as a new resident in Marseilles. Reading about the advice she got from the fishwives on the docks of Marseilles (many offering directly opposing views on how le vraie bouillabaisse was to be prepared) makes you want to hustle down to the fish monger and get to it.

Speaking of fishmongers, we discovered for ourselves a great place Boston Magazine noted for fish. New Deal Fish Market in Cambridge is terrific, full of great seafood and helpful advice. It’s been a family business since 1928. When we walked in, Carl (son in the father-son team) was helping a woman asking about what fish to avoid during pregnancy. Both father and son make you feel welcome and at ease, like you could ask them anything from how to prepare fluke or what size clam is best for the chowder.

• So read Essential Cook's Tools to see my beautiful Staub bouillabaisse pot (see the little fish on top?) and learn about other tools gourmet home cooks must have.

• I think about all the silly gadgets retailers invent each season. Chief among them are these tools you don't need. The common denominator in terms of function is to separate you from your money. 'Nuff said!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Rats in the kitchen. Tomatoes in Carmel. Keller in Greenville. Stay with me, this will all make sense....

First, I urge all readers to see Pixar's "Ratatouille". It's beautiful and fun and poignant. Even more so when you read this thoughtful piece in the Terre Haute Trib-Star by Stephanie Salter, and consider the points she makes. Girls grow up listening to boys in bands, boys are the leads in stories we read, movies we see, even when they're rats!

A tomato grows in Carmel...

One of the most wonderful things about California is its growing climate. Not only can locavores eat well 365 days a year ,but they can grow wonderful things year-round, too. Whereas we East coasters only get great tomatoes a few weeks of the year, West coasters have them year-round. If you love heirloom tomatoes as I do and you have any way to get to Carmel Valley CA on September 16, get there. The annual Tomato Fest is not to be missed. If 350 tomato varieties from around the world were not enough to entice you, they also have 60 of America's top chefs, and tastings of over 100 premium wines.

California's climate is directly connected to its fabulous restaurants, such as La Toque in Napa Valley and the more famous French Laundry. Many know Thomas Keller as the French Laundry, Bouchon, Per Se chef and restauranteur and by now many know his consulting role in Ratatouille, as well as Spanglish.

From Napa to Greenville...

Keller is also one of the chefs participating in the Southern Exposure in Greenville, SC. This weekend long event will shine a spotlight on Greenville South Carolina's thriving Culinary and Arts Communities. Bringing together celebrity chefs, master sommeliers, and national recording artists the festival hosts tastings, dinners and more all in celebration of food, wine and music. A foundation started by local restauranteur Carl Sobocinski and platinum-selling singer and songwriter Edwin McCain distributes proceeds to local anti-hunger and arts organizations. Feeding bodies and souls.

The Michelin Guide New York City gave Per Se its most prestigious recognition, a three star rating, in both 2006 and 2007. The French Laundry was additionally awarded three stars by the Michelin Guide San Francisco for 2007, making Thomas Keller the only American-born Chef to hold multiple three star ratings.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Believe it or not, even I don't always want to heat up my kitchen, especially on hot nights. If you're seeking a little inspiration and need to throw a new player into the late-summer line-up; poaching chicken might be the solution.

A lot of readers and friends ask me for help when it's too hot to cook. I've got you covered with my easy and exotic cold poached chicken. I'm not talking about that unappetizing plain, dry, chicken breast of the old diet plate specials. How about a Provençal treatment, beautiful shredded or sliced moist chicken with tomatoes, olives and capers? Thai-style shredded green papaya salad with lemongrass infused chicken?

Other Warm Weather Dinner Ideas:

Gazpacho is a terrific choice, especially when the summer tomatoes are in.

Microwave recipes (ginger scented fish fillets) are a boon to summer cooks.

Clams, mussels steamed in wine and herbs provide a healthy, clean protein and require one burner and a modicum of effort.

Salads with oomph: Niçoise, Greek, Cobb.

Any salad or wrap can be given a flavor and protein boost with cold, poached chicken.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

If you've traveled through the South of France or done it through books such as "A Year in Provence" you'll no doubt have vivid memories of the warm sun, the fields of lavender, the fantastic wines and the food. In my fantasies - I am there. Until I can actually get there, I grow lavender on my balcony and grab dried culinary lavender at my Farmer's Market.

This week, I got a real treat: a gift of fresh, line-caught bluefish from a friend's deep sea fishing trip. I decided to go Provencal style. Olives, capers, garlic, lavender, herbs...in thinking about ways to prepare it, went through my familiar routine. Make a nice refreshing drink and pore over my cookbooks, poke around online, imagine a million different techniques, flavors, combinations. Once I have it narrowed to a mere million or so, I can begin to narrow the field. What's on hand, what flavors have I been jonesing for...

So, this evening I discovered Anchoïde. I discovered that I like it quite a bit. It reminded me of another summer staple from my past years when I'd vacation with friends on Martha's Vineyard. My olive tapenade was the perfect note to our post-beach, pre-dinner cocktails. I remembered also the stone patios of Mayle's Provence stories and realized I'm once again transported by food.

Ratatouille - The Movie

In this MUST-SEE film - there is a beautiful scene (no spoiler here, don't worry) where a character has that sort of out-of-body experience of which I speak. For me and my food-obsessed friends it is probably as good a representation of what drives our obsession.

The dish, ratatouille, is also a french dish and many of the ingredients could be used to good measure in this dish: my Smoky Provencal Bluefish.

Lavender is common en Provence. We're lucky to get good culinary quality dried lavender here at our local Farmer's Market. Another refreshing way to use it is to make lemonade, with lavender and a splash of cranberry. C'est Magnifique!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Linguine con Vongole (linguine with clams) or Shrimp Scampi or Mussels Fra Diavolo. This week I give you an easy technique

Chitarra is a really fun pasta shape. The name comes from the square shape of this long pasta and its similarity to guitar strings. It’s well suited to a Carbonara or to a seafood pasta like this. Linguine or spaghetti or capellini all work well with this dish. Pasta shapes are often argued with ferocity that approaches soccer team allegiances. General rule of thumb is this: think about the sauce that will accompany your pasta. Do you want a pasta to scoop and catch the sauce – Orichietti or my new favorite Campanelle. If it’s a smooth sauce, one that would cling to long thin shapes try a long pasta.

You know Alton Brown’s refrain “no unitaskers!” He often reminds us that kitchen tools and gadgets should have more than one use. I concur. One of my favorite multi-use tools is the humble melon-baller. Not only will it help you make beautiful melon salads but a melon-baller will also core an apple quite efficiently. If you’re using capers for any sort of pasta other dish, keep this tool in mind. The tiny immature flower buds are prized for their piquancy in many recipes including: tartar sauce, many seafood preparations, deviled eggs, and pasta Puttanesca. They are often found in very narrow little bottles or cured in salt. The pickled capers in narrow bottles can be extracted with a melon-baller. The hole in the small end will drain away the liquid as you fish out a teaspoon or so at a time.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

"Pesto is the quiche of the '80's" Nora Ephron

I make the case (pun intended, as European readers know, "case" is what Yanks call "pie shell or crust") this week that we should resurrect the quiche. As Ephron's pithy observation implies, quiche in the '70's (like pesto in the '80's) became so commonplace that it became bad. Sort of sunk to the lowest common denominator till every bar, cafe and restaurant had a "quiche of the day."

Men still tease each other about being gay if they make quiche. Why? Were we that parochial that something with a French name carried such connotations?

Making a quiche is a good idea, here's why. You get to practice that perfect pie crust recipe. Making a couple is not a bad idea as you will soon have beautiful cherries and berries and summer veg on hand, even if you live in Alaska.

You can also get familiar with a tart pan. It's a small investment and really elevates the dish to something elegant. I love to see the little scalloped tart shell standing there holding all that yummy custard-y goodness.

You can acquaint or reacquaint yourself with regional foods and dishes from Alsace (nice summer drinking wines, by the way.) Another Alsatian dish that is similar to quiche but without a custard base, is Pissaladière, a tart-like dish of beautifully caramelized onions. Classically, its base is puff pastry, but a small tart shell would work fine, I think.

Thomas Keller resurrects quiche in this month's Food & Wine. See The Egg and I for his "Over the Top Mushroom Quiche. (Trivia question: Keller's BLT Fried Egg and Cheese Sandwich appears in what movie? - see quiche article for answer.)

Gorgeous little square tarts are a top seller at the well-known Rose Bakery in Paris. She had them custom made and I covet them each time I open the coffee-table elegant cook book by Rose Carrarini Breakfast Lunch Tea Rose Bakery (Phaidon Press). Like Keller's French Laundry book, this hefty book is beautifully crafted and worthy of art book status. It has its full share of recipes of course, but the straightforward writing of the chef-author ("I am not a trained chef." Her first words in the book!) and her notes about the food she creates and serves are accompanied by beautiful photographs. They are of that quality that wistfully makes us wish we were organically chic and beautiful and eating in Rose Bakery.

Actually, the two books offer a nice contrast. Both are well worth a look.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Getting to know regional cuisines of any country through restaurants here is a gamble. In Eating Beyond Sichuan Nina and Tim Zagat (yes, those Zagats) describe one of the reasons why Americans will find so few authentic representatives of Chinese regional dishes. They link the nearly uniformly disappointing Chinese restaurant offerings to difficulties obtaining visas for chefs.

While they offer examples of restaurantuers who could not open because chefs were unable to gain legal working papers, I cannot imagine this is the entire story. They readily admit the access to authentic ingredients is no longer the barrier, but why would Chinese dishes be more difficult to recreate than say, Japanese? Outside of New York City and the West Coast, one scarcely finds a Japanese chef in the US. Have I offered my own complaints of yet another Chinese, Korean "sushi chefs"? Sure. Yet one still can get pretty decent approximations of Japanese dishes, beyond sushi and sometimes even including it, in many places.

Are regional Italian dishes coming only from chefs from Tuscany, Sicily or Veneto? Still we are learning, albeit slowly, that all Italian food is not the same.

I see no reason why Americans and others outside of China, cannot learn about regional cuisines of China. There are eight traditions, including: Hunan, Sichuan and Cantonese which many of us are familiar with. In addition, the Zagats name: Anhui, Fujian, Jiangu, Shandong, and Zhejiang.

As with other cuisines, Chinese regional cuisines are driven both by ingredients to be found (Where wheat grows, you'll find more noodles; coastal areas, more fish) and by history. Ingredients often find their way into a country's cuisine through wars, religious sojourners and explorers.

I remember when I had to unlearn and re-learn what Cantonese food was about. And some of the best dumplings I've had (next to Mom's gyoza) were in Toronto, where the chef/owner showed me the place on a wall map where she was from. How fitting the name of the shop was Mother's Dumplings.

If you want to begin learning about regional Chinese cuisine: you could begin with a primersuch as this one on Epicurious. I also recommend cookbooks. I found a great, basic cookbook once that includes photos and phonetic descriptions of a host of ingredients. Bonus: the cover was attached upside down so I got it for a song!

Finally, if you are near a Chinatown either in your city or in your travels, you will no doubt find good, accurate exemplars of at least one or two regional cuisines. Find a place that's good and ask questions. Like a good butcher or fishmonger, a good waiter or maitre d' is often glad to be a cultural ambassador too. The world awaits.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

The US Passport service is experiencing huge delays so if you're traveling this summer jump on that passport renewal early! If armchair travel is your style, I've got lots of links in the new post, too.

Thinking about Father's Day? So am I, in addition to sharing some thoughts on what my father taught me about food, I share some restaurant tips in case you're thinking about taking Pops out for dinner.

Here's a list of some of the new restaurants I've been hearing about:

• Chispa Restaurant & Bar - Doral, Florida - Chispa is Spanish for spark, this new spot is bringing world class tapas and cazuelitas to west Miami.
• Colborne Lane, Toronto, Canada - Chef Claudio Aprile brings "unorthodox and enormously appealing approach to food." One diner notes the chef's enthusiasm adds to the sublime experience of hoisin-glazed 36 hour braised pork belly.
• Habitat, Toronto, Canada - Chef Scot Woods got great review in Toronto Life for skillfully blending elements of a wide range of cuisines a trend that sometimes results in unappealing mash-ups. I'm impressed by a skilled, experienced chef who still apprentices for free to learn from old world masters.
• Neil Vines of Bloomberg.com reviews three Bangkok steakhouses: The New York Steakhouse in the JW Marriott Hotel wins.

and some old standbys passed on by noted gourmet journalist, R.W. Apple, Jr. before his death last fall, via the Dallas Morning News.

• Fleurie, France: Auberge du Cep - "love and skill are lavished on the simplest dishes."
• Sant'agata Suite Due Golfi, Italy: Don Alfonso - "fresh understated, umistakably Italian"
• San Sebastian, Spain: Arzak - "modern and entertaining" food that is "often witty, never overwrought" served in a 110 year old roadside tavern.
• Brussells, Belgium: Comme Chez Soi - "originality, even alchemy...but no trickery"
• Gothenburg, Sweden: Sjomagasinet - Chef-owner Leif Mannerstrom "turns out a definative version of Jansson's Temptation" a scallopped potato dish that is close to a national treasure. Oh and the chef adorns a national postage stamp. (I remember a delicious version served by my sister-in-law Chrissy's uncle - divine!)

And my poll on global cuisines shows folks are interested in Australia -here's one for you:

• Sydney, Australia: Billy Kwong. Prawn won tons "little flavor bombs bursting with tastes of shellfish, black vinegar and chili oil."

His description of these and other dishes makes it apparent why Mr Apple was so adored in his lifetime of food writing and restaurant reviews.

Where have I been dining?

• Washington, D.C.'s landmark Old Ebbitt Grill - How can you go wrong when Teddy Roosevelt's hunting trophies supervise the bar, gas lights it, and Maryland Blue Crab adorns the benedict? The bartenders really did know patrons by name.
• Taberna de Haro in Brookline, MA - brings authentic Madrid charm and cuisine to Boston. Arroz negro, a paella style rice dish colored with squid ink was rich and flavorful and worth the trip in and of itself. Gambas al ajillo, stuffed squid, patata bravas. Delicioso!
• O-Sushi, South End outpost of established sushi masters, brings Manhattan style (and prices!) as well as Tokyo-quality sushi to Boston. Save a few bucks somewhere else, it's worth the splurge here.

Don't forget Farmers' Markets are open now. Baby greens, asparagus, first peas, butter lettuce, chard, chive blossoms, all in now in the Northeast. Tonight my dinner starte included basil from my garden and locally made fresh mozzarella along with the first heirloom green zebra tomato of the season.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

When I read about self-timing eggs - I scratched my head. But it's true: the British company, Lion Quality Eggs is marking eggs with heat-sensitive ink that turns black the minute it's ready. 3, 4 and 7 minute stamped eggs are available for consumers who simply cannot figure out how to use a simple egg timer.

My question is this:

If one is constitutionally incapable of watching an egg timer for a whole three minutes, what is the likelihood of watching the egg boil so you can see the self-timing ink to appear?

If you really are that bad in the kitchen, maybe you could win.

If you really think you’re so bad a cook that you can’t even boil an egg, why not apply to win the “America’s Worst Cook” award.? The American Egg Board is conducting a search for America’s Worst, maybe you or someone you know could win two days at New York’s International Culinary Institute! Apply at America's Worst Cook.

The deadline is June 30. The Egg Board’s website also has tips and recipes. The frittata demo, besides being a perfect example of the *charming* Illinois accent, is also a pretty unappetizing frittata but if you really can’t cook, Howard makes it pretty easy. I think Howard holds the record for “fastest omelet.”

For an equally quick, easy and elegant frittata see my Frittata Makes an Elegant Dinner

And in the immortal words of Alan King:

"As life's pleasures go, food is second only to sex. Except for salami and eggs. Now that's better than sex, but only if the salami is thickly sliced."

Posted by Jacqueline Church

The competitive eating contest takes place each year July 4th at Coney Island - Nathan's Famous is the dog of choice, natch. The record stands at over 50 consumed in 12 minutes (held by a 27 year old from Japan!) If you'd rather savor your hot dogs than inhale them, read on.

From Rhode Island Reds to Chicago Hots, Coney Island to Seattle. - hot dogs have evolved beyond the Oscar Meyer's of our childhood. I once heard an elaborate plan for a hot dog business that involved retro-fitted hearses. Amazing what people share on trains. But that's the power of a good dog. It inspires us. It makes us smile. Sometimes, it causes trouble.

Steamed or grilled - experts can be found to swear the perfect snap can only be achieved through one or the other method. Top split buns - a New England favorite are rarely seen elsewhere.

Ballparks are said to be the birthplace of hot dogs and they'll probably always be a staple of summer. Salmon dogs? Veggie dogs? Not for me. Food safety scare-mongers periodically surface with horror stories about ingredients. Pshaw. A good hot dog, a good brat, a good sausage can be found almost anywhere these days. Just ask your butcher.

Seek out the best in your area. I've had great gourmet dogs from fancy shops, but I cannot imagine that a foot long hot dog, even one served in the newly gentrified downtown LA, would be worth $15.00. And yet, they exist. How about a $250.00 fine for a foie gras dog?

In honor of Memorial Day and grillmeisters everywhere, this week I bring you hot dogs.

What is your favorite dog? Favorite toppings? Ketchup yes or no? Fire up the grill - let's eat!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Your Global Gourmet Passport - New Column Feature!

This segment will alert you to news, trends, openings, ingredients from around the world. We'll inspire you with visits to exotic locales. All along the gourmet trail we'll learn about new food finds, rising stars and emerging food trends.

What do Shanghai and Istanbul have in common? While building my dossier for our debut, I discovered Bon Appetit's May cover "Where to Eat" around the world. Want to know the difference between a longan and a lychee? Cous cous in Israel versus Morocco? We will target new food finds (açai anyone?) as well as touch on traditional cuisine.

Still think all Italian food is the same? Really? What about all Chinese food? Why do some dumplings come thinly wrapped while others are thick? What regions favors rice over noodles and why? Know the difference between sushi and donburi? Think Japanese eat sushi every day? Just ask someone from South America about their favorite empanada. Everyone believes their country makes it the right way! (I just think they're all delicioso!)

We'll follow the food trail and bring you closer to dishes that speak to the heart of tradtional cuisine. We'll also cover the innovations and emerging trends. For now, to whet your appetites: peruse these globetrotting goodies:

• Kicking off our new segment is my coverage of the growing trend in Culinary Vacations.
• Culinary Travel Meets Slow Food
• Go Down Under (Australia) with Global Gourmet
• Okonomiyaki
• Montreal's O Noir Restaurant and Dark Dining
• Gazpacho Spain's Famous Cold Soup
• Shabu Shabu - Beyond Sushi

Allons-y!

Whether your travel is a pleasant fantasy or a real trip, check out our Travel and Culture pages, too. They're filled with tips, insights and suggestions.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Salsomaggiore Terme will host the first Pizza Olympics from the 26-29 of March 2007. Our friends at Delicious Italy are predicting that American competitors will find the going tough. Do you think they know about our Pizza making friends in New Haven ?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Forget EF Hurtton, when Meg Hourihan says something, I listen. And when she validates my experience with sexism in service at restaurants I not only listen, I share.

I once worked at a top restaurant, noted for fabulous food, great service and attracting an upscale crowd. Prior to working there, I called for a last minute table. I acknowledged it was a late call but asked if we could be accomodated. I was told we could.

I arrived and sussed out who the senior person was at the front of the house. Not hard to figure out, one man, handful of women. I introduced myself, apologized for the late call and explained it was my friend's birthday. I indicated, as I greased his palm, that I would appreciate his help.

We got seated at the worst possible table. I took note of empty tables around us and how long it took them to fill.

As luck would have it, I wound up working in that very same restaurant and later had the perfect opportunity to reveal my secret service experience. Needless to say, the manager on duty at that time and at the time of my customer experience, vehemently denied my version of the facts.

I was able to confirm my side of the story with the electronic seating software used at the host stand. When it revealed that I was, in fact, seated at the very table I remembered, and he was, in fact, the manager on duty with whom I had dealt, he was speechless.

As I have noted before, I have always been an advocate for voting with your dollars. Savvy servers and restaurants figure it out and will give women the service we deserve. The ones who don't will lose our business.

I wish it were only front of the house we could complain about, but our insights in to female chefs and molecular gastronomy shows that women still face disparate challenges in the kitchens as well.

Anyone else care to share a story?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

It was through the discovery of a loved one's cancer that I began the task of looking for healthy ways to support his journey through treatment and recovery. I could not believe how limited the resources I found were. Then, I found Rebecca Katz and her book.

These are the kinds of recipes, delivered in a straightforward and well-written style that make you forget they're also good for you. Her enthusiasm is obvious from the printed and the electronic page. Just check out her Inner Cook blog.

I'm going to make some Magic Mineral Broth tomorrow. I'm taking her book with me to stock up my in-laws' fridge and freezer. If you enjoy good health now, this book based on sound nutrition and excellent cooking skills will help you optimize that health. If you or someone you know is not well, what better way to support them than through delicious and nutritious foods?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Turbo chef? Is it just me or does the name of this new oven conjure images of Ralph Kramden as the doomed "Chef of the Future"? Turbo in the kitchen reminds me of someone in the marketing department at Popeil who think that the Jetsons are still the arbiters of modern.

So, there's my bias. But -- if this oven does what it is purported to do -- it could be a Jetson-ian breaktrhough. It is said to combine microwave, convection, steam and infrared technologies, to produce "glorious results." Charlie Trotter's words, not mine.

The results could be amazing. Even cooking, moistness and browning, all at high speed? What home cook would not want to achieve the perfect roast chicken in 14 minutes? But then, what do we do to speed up the rest of the dishes?

I don't think you can even open a bottle of wine and pour it in that amount of time. Oh, and I forgot to mention that all this miraculous, space age technology, comes with a price tag, hold on to your sprockets there Spacely...about $8,000.

Chef Trotter is in a much better position than I to appreciate a value like that.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I'm still fumbling with farro, crying over quinoa, troubled by teff when what do discover? Whole Wheat Doughnuts!

Now seriously folks, I'm not really that confounded by grains, but it takes some doing to figure out how to get back to eating real food. Sure Michael Pollan makes it sound so easy but you and I know too well the temptations of take-out. So fast, so easy, so salty, fatty good...

Can't we all just get along? Hey Michael, how's about picking up a whole wheat Krispy Kreme or 6 and head over, I'll put the coffee on. It's heirloom Columbian Caracol, from the good people at Pete's, but it was grown outside the 100 mile radius of Boston. Locavores be damned, let's do it!

Just one question: won't it take the fun out of cheating if we're eating something healthy-ish?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

A new restaurant is poised to open in Boston's historic Leather District. O-Ya will bring authentic Japanese cuisine with subtle innovations that enrich rather than dilute the traditions from which they come.

Imagine, a sushi chef trained under the likes of Nobu, and Hiro - world traveled settling here. His wife: a sake sommelier. Both new and devoted members of this unique downtown neighborhood. See my intro O-Ya Set to Impress in the Leather District Gourmet blog.

Their menu opts for superior ingredients such as Wagyu beef and Kurobuta pork. They combine a reverence for tradition with a love for innovation. Good things are happening here.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

A new tool

I saw this pan highlighted in the LA Times Food column today. It’s a new style of wok, made of carbon steel. The Volrath is gaining converts. It seems that the chief advantages are that it’s carbon steel so it will heat well and evenly, it’s flat-bottomed (requiring no ring) and it has a cool-to-the-touch handle. I noted that it needs simple seasoning and it reminded me that I wanted to share a tip with readers on seasoning cast-iron.

Sounds good. Anyone out there have any feedback?

Old reliable friend

When talking about gumbo I sang the praises of cast iron. Recently, we’ve heard a lot about toxicity of the non-stick stuff. Let me reiterate that simple old, cast iron is the cook’s best friend. It’s safe. It’s cheap. It heats very well and holds heat well. It’s safe for the stove top and the oven. Once seasoned, it needs minimal care and will rival any synthetic non-stick surface.

Every once in awhile, your trusted pan needs re-seasoning. Maybe a well-meaning guest ran it through the dishwasher. (If that happens to Calphalon, forget it.) Or, maybe you found an old rusty pan at a yard sale or in your Mom’s garage. One of the best things about cast iron is that it is nearly indestructible.

To re-season the pan you can find simple step by step instructions on the Lodge Manufacturing site. Lodge has been making cast iron cookware for over a hundred years. The only quibble with their instructions I might have is that some cooks have told me they prefer lard or vegetable shortening instead of spray oil or other lighter oils. Lighter oils might not do quite as well at penetrating the iron and creating the natural non-stick coating, the seasoning that's so beneficial.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Bringing nibbles to your screen

Check out this primer on tea: Food411.com is an award-winning online resource with lots to offer. Whether you're looking for a good read (two of our writers are listed) or looking for a gourmet gift their list of food and cooking purveyors is extensive.

One of the best tea shops in the Boston area is Teavana. If you don't have the time for full afternoon tea, you should be able to find a shop (they're in several states). I've found their staff informed and helpful.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Fat Tuesday is associated with excess because people all over the Christian world knew Ash Wednesday and Lent were going to require sacrifice and quiet reflection.

Whether you're Christian or not, observe Lent or don't, Fat Tuesday is a great opportunity to get out the cast iron Dutch oven and make some Gumbo. See All about Gumbo and Gumbo Step by Step for all the info you need.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I adore homemade pizza and good restaurant pizza, sometimes even a mediocre slice on the fly will do.....and I know I'm not alone. As I noted earlier, pizza provokes passions. See my Pizza for Pesos post or That's Amore earlier...(especially the discussion!)

Our Healthy Eating writer shares her favorite Homemade Pizza recipe this week.

I'm on the road a few days but stay tuned for my homemade pizza dough recipe. It's worth a try and a good recipe to get small hands involved in if you want to cook with kids.

I adapted my recipe from my hero, Julia Child. Check out Prime Cuts on PBS' website. This site has clips of Julia in action with several well-known chefs in action. Chef Robert Dona makes pizza with her in one of them.

A real pizza stone makes a huge difference. I've been through two of the high-end volcanic or some such model at W-S. The first one cracked and the second shows signs of going that way. Next one I going to try will be one of these ceramic jobs from an online catalog or a restaurant supply store.

While USAirways was losing my luggage, somewhere along the North East US - I, blissfully unaware - picked up a couple of magazines in the airport news shop. One of them announced homemade pizza recipes for any night. I'll let you know if I find anything useful there.

Tips:

• Making pizza at home allows you to control the quality of the ingredients.
• Use a pizza stone - check Cooks Illustrated, Cooking.com, or Williams-Sonoma. Better yet, check your local restaurant supply store.
• Try different recipes for your perfect crust.
• Several F&D writers have weighed in on pizza, check out Devy Stone's wild BBQ Rainbow Pizza; Stephanie Gallagher's
• See my original piece on New Haven, Boston and even Chicago pizza...herePizza - That's Amore.
• Good oregano is key. Throw out that plastic shaker bottle of gray-green stuff that's been in the spice cabinet for ages. Get some Divine Sonoran Desert Oregano.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

So the Sunday Times Magazine ran an opinion piece about pizza that has me pondering why people got peeved about a promotion at Pizza Patrón called Pesos for Pizza. You know how we love our Pizza here...and, yes, this post is brought to you by the letter "P".

But seriously, ...read Branding by the Slice for some wily observations on human nature and incendiary issues like pizza and immigration.

And how about the fact that the pizza in question is served in a very successful chain owned by a Lebanese restauranteur? He saw what others have been slow to recognize, an economic opportunity in serving an underserved community. The bi-lingual staff he hired helps serve a customer base that just happens to be the largest demographic in the US. Whether you call the demographic, HIspanic or Latino, it's here and others would do well to recognize it for the good that it brings - and not just economically.

Without going too far afield, I'll just note the interesting similarity to the Philly Cheesesteak Xenophobia Controversy and this Pizza for Pesos one. See Pat's Rules, Geno's Roils for more.

Or if you just want to read about pizza you could see my Pizza - That's Amore! post and join the fray.

And by the way, the favorite topping in these Pizza Patrón shops? Pepperoni, of course.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I sometimes find it hard to recall that I was once a vegetarian. There are moments of carnivorous bliss when this seems impossible. One such moment is when I am enjoying a divine piece of beef.

• Last week I picked up a tri-tip cut of "Kobe" which was actually Wagyu. A very quick pan sear then a drizzle of clarified butter with some ancho chile powder. Heaven.
• Todd English dined on Shabu Shabu including Kobe beef.
• And finally, I read Frank Bruni's snarky piece on the new New York City Chodorow restaurant. Chodorow was one of the short-lived TV food guys connected to Rocco Di Spirito's debacle.
• The new restaurant is called Kobe, and serves - what else - beef. They might want to save a slab for the black eye he gives them, too!

Check out my Wagyu versus Kobe piece and learn about this gift from happy cows, and obsessive farmers.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Hey kids you heard it here first, whole grains rock. Farro is hot. Farro is not spelt. And "le petit epautre" is the Provencal version.

Everywhere I turn someone's singing its praises and well-earned I say. Whole Grain Farro is just wonderful in soup. I roasted it with a winter root veg mix after par-cooking it in broth.

Just last week I learned about "piccolo farro" as the Italians call it, from a customer who was looking for the Provençal version called "le petit épautre." I discovered Food and Style, a delightful website by a French woman who shaers a recipe for petit épautre and a source in Avignon.

Check it out!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Offal: Noun:

1 : the waste or by-product of a process: as a : trimmings of a hide b : the by-products of milling used especially for stock feeds c : the viscera and trimmings of a butchered animal removed in dressing. 2 Rubbish.

Back story: Oral surgery and ice cream

A good friend J. has carefully cultivated his image as a tough guy. We know better – inside he’s a softie who likes cookies and milk, and is really a very generous, sweet guy. Now, some time ago he was dismissing his impending oral surgery and I realized he had failed to anticipate the shape he’d be in after it was over. Tough guys like us, don’t need help, right?

Our insistence on driving him to and from the appointment enabled us to meet his delightful mother. While we got acquainted in the dentist’s waiting room, she cheerfully chatted up other patients, explaining through her experience of having worked in this very same office, what they could expect after their “procedures.” (eeuw)

One young woman asked about what she might eat later in the day. I heard J's mother reply “awful, awful.” I thought, “Wow, this poor girl! Why didn’t she soften the blow a little. Was she really explaining how awful the girl was going to feel?”

Turns out the local ice cream shop has a thick shake or frappe they’ve named the “Awful, Awful.”

Which brings us to: Offal

The phrase “awful offal” came to mind repeatedly as I heard my husband read a couple of recipes from the book “Nose to Tail Eating” by Fergus Henderson, demi-god among people to whom I listen. The book, you may have guessed by now, is not about ice cream. It’s about eating every possible part of various animals that end up on our plates.

On the recommendation of Anthony Bourdain and others, I recently purchased this book. I was thrilled with the forward/introduction and have been excited to start the book. The night it arrived, my husband began reading excerpts to me. Instructions for things like how to singe hair off pigs’ ears or reminders to leave the windpipe of your sheep’s pluck hanging outside the pot so as to conveniently drain any unexpected material expelled from its lungs during cooking…Well, let’s just say these passages do leave me wondering about my pursuit of offal.

I’m still just beginning the book, and I keep hearing the phrase “awful offal” in my head. I am afraid I may have had a surprising epiphany about cooking and eating. Have I been mistaken about my adventurous and enlightened pursuit of both? Could it be that while true food lovers are BASE jumping off into, well offal - I’m like the wimp on the kiddie carousel?

Then unexpectedly, you find gentle and alluring comforts in the writing (he doesn’t have the heart to kill the snails for one recipe) and I’m hooked again…Stay tuned.

In the meantime, catch Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" show - the episode on Namibia. Or, read about it here.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I have always hated New Year’s Resolutions because they never seem to succeed. Can you name one resolution you made last year and accomplished? If so, you’re way ahead of the rest of us.

S.M.A.R.T. is an acronym for goal setting that helps managers set and, more importantly, accomplish goals.

• Specific
• Measurable
• Attainable, Agreed upon
• Realistic, Reasonable
• Time-based, Tangible

Following a blowout holiday season (including my husband’s birthday, my birthday, holidays, anniversaries, and more) we went for some blood work. It wasn’t planned that way, it just happened, don't ask. Let’s just say the results were highly encouraging.

Encouraging us to eat healthier, that is. I’m not ready to give up foie gras or other fine gourmet treats like cupcakes from Sprinkles. Deprivation is a sure-fire way to fail for me.

Instead, I’ll make some SMART goals for eating healthier. One of the best things any of us can do is to incorporate whole grains into our diet. Quinoa is tops on my list. I’m not talking about going all twigs and bark on you, don’t worry!

For some months now, I’ve been researching grains and there’s some great news for all of us. More variety, better processing techniques, and more culinary interest means we have great options.

So here is one example of a set of SMART goals for incorporating whole grains.

S = Specific - Instead of saying “I resolve to eat more grains.” A specific goal would be: “I will try one new whole grain or whole grain dish per month.”

M = Measurable - Find one grain recipe on line or try a whole grain dish from your favorite gourmet take out counter, this month.

A = Attainable or Agreed-upon - In project management, you might need to get agreement or buy-in from other stakeholders. In a family or household, you may encounter resistance to the concept. Decide if buy-in ahead of time is the right strategy. If not, you may simply serve a new side dish along side a familiar one, rather than make an abrupt substitution.

R = Realistic, Reasonable - Plainly put, let’s set a goal that is achievable. It would not be realistic for me to set a goal such as “I will replace one dish at each meal with whole grains.” A realistic goal would be “I will try one new whole grain dish per week.” This may not be realistic for someone who doesn’t like to cook, experiment, research foods as I do. Be reasonable.

T = Time-based or timely, or Tangible - I will say that somewhere between a new dish per week and a new dish per month is good. I’m going to shoot for at least two per month.

Why not play along? We can swap recipes, share success stories and kvetch when necessary. I guarantee it'll be more fun than Weight Watchers and tastier than Jenny Craig.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

The New York Times reports on a new trend in Yoga: "Yoga + Wine" retreats. I'm not kidding. The article includes a photo of a studio filled with yoga students on their mats, with wine glasses in hand. Hey, I couldn't make this up.

I don't know how many of my readers are dabblers in yoga, but I suspect more than a few of you have tried it. I would venture a guess that at least as many have been to a wine tasting. I just don't think the two go together. Besides, where the heck do the glasses go when you're in warrior pose? I'm sure I'd knock them over transitioning from iron mountain to whatever the heck comes next. Are there buckets for spitting? Servers?

It's only a matter of time before some frat boy turned yoga student gets the bright idea: "Dude, if we combine wine with hot yoga (the Bikram style in steamy hot rooms) we can catch a buzz faster even faster."

Anyone with only a bit of sense will tell you that the notion of drinking during a class is about as far from the goals of the practice as you can get. But, as the entrepreneur points out, Americans approach paths to spiritual enlightenment pretty much the way we do a lot of things: "cafeteria style". That is to say, we like to pick and choose just what we want. Why conform to someone else's discipline, especially if it interferes with your partying?

Contemplating another version of this oddity seems reasonable to me: a yoga retreat set in wine country that offers good local food and wine after a day that includes yoga class and vineyard tours...that could work.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Move over Miss Piggy, it's time for "Quails in Space".

Todd English may be opening restaurants in every corner of the globe, but Alain Ducasse is going into orbit. Check out his recent additions to the International Space Station menu:

"...quails roasted in Mardian wine, red tuna with candied Menton lemon, "Riviera-style swordfish" and a confit of breast of duck with capers. The side dishes included sand carrots "with a hint of orange and coriander" and "a light puree of celery with a hint of nutmeg,"

Beats the heck out of Tang, hm? Thanks for the tip, GrapeGirl! Alas, the astronauts apparently are deprived of wine. I'd share the microgravity bioreactor with them if they needed it.

For an other-worldly experience here on Earth, I've recommended the Dark Dining experience. One of my favorite movie lines: "Even a blind man can see how much I love you." This story gives it a whole new meaning...

Reuters reports that a Los Angeles event based on the dark dining concept became a true "blind date" for a couple who connected through a Craig's List chat. They dined together at "Opaque" and after the meal, agreed to a second date.

Restaurants around the world (Montreal, London, Berlin) are offering the opportunity to dine in complete darkness, served by blind waiters/waitresses, to experience a sightless evening out. For many diners it offers a unique view into the world of sightless people. It can be a moving experience, even an epiphany. For the LA diner happily sharing his view that dark dining offers the advantage of being able to pick his nose, well, he's still in the dark. One doesn't need sight to discern class-less oaf.

And the beat goes on:

This week: I'll share my next installment in the Gourmet Gift Guide and my pick of the show from the Toronto Food and Wine Fiasco.

Sous-vide has made it to Iron Chef, I guess it's time to cover this interesting technique. The research is here somewhere on my desk, I swear. Scooped by Alton Brown, gosh darn it. Look for exciting additions to my gourmet food glossary, including this one and pictoral how-to guides.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

If the holidays are a time for reflection, I can think of no better topic than Dancing Deer Baking Company. Interested in a gift that gives to others? Take a look at Dancing Deer's Sweet Home offerings. Through this unique project, 35% of the purchase price of several items goes towards education, training, child care and housing for homeless families.

As an advocate of “doing good while doing well” I was excited to speak with Trish Karter, “top Deer” or CEO of this highly respected Boston bakery. Accolades have accumulated year after year for her leadership, for her contributions to the inner city, for her business success and last, but certainly not least, her cookies.

Check out my Dancing Deer interview Gourmet Goodies and Life Lessons for some really great advice from a remarkable woman and check out Dancing Deer's site for some fantastic holiday gift ideas.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Though I was unable to attend this event, I wanted to share the menu with you. You may recall my interview with Chef Bloise this past summer.

The menu from November's dinner is another example of the unique flavors and perspective Chef Bloise brings to his cooking. A great performance indeed. Congratulations Michael!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Alas, my crazy $25,000 gourmet gift suggestion - a gala dinner in Bangkok called "Epicurean Masters of the World", has come and gone. My apologies to readers distressed at having missed that deadline. I'll try to do better next year.

But I soldier on with advice on lots of other fun gifts so don't despair. I thought it would be fun to poll my favorite chefs, food writers, and artisan producers about holiday gift giving. I posed this question:/p>

"What was the best food or kitchen gift you’ve given or received?"

From fellow food-blogger, Gurgling Cod: Mom gives him and his brother a knife each year.

Just as I wracked my brain for some superstition about knives as gifts, I received this from Regina Schrambling, a favorite food writer AKA Gastropoda. She recalls best gifts received:

• martini pitcher filled with Ice Cubes (candies)
• also a piece of copper cookware every Christmas and birthday
• a Chinese cleaver used daily (a gift of a penny back to the gift giver, lifts the curse of the severed relationship said to attach to gifts of knives.)

And from a local Boston food writer – holed away in a library on her first book deal (yay!):

• received: Crab from Maryland and lobster from Maine are two of her favorites; a new coffee maker with cute mugs
• given: breakfast in bed; gelato makers with cute dishes; popcorn buckets with colossal boxes of candy for movie fiends

My friends at Bauer Wines recommend a lovely sparkler:

• Krug Grande Cuvee Champagne @ $150 it's a better value than the more familiar Dom or Cristal.
• Or a LBV Port

The boys at Bauer have never steered me wrong. At a recent tasting hosted by Bauer, we were also introduced to a lovely Tokaj, a Hungarian dessert wine.

From Helene York, Director, Bon Appetit Management Company Foundation Helene recalls a terrific selection of three artisanal Oregon cheeses; accompanying them, two local beers, and a locally-crafted (but obviously not domestically sourced) bamboo cutting board. She can’t get herself to use it as a cutting board and instead puts it to use as a cheese platter.

Laurel at Quady Winery recommends:

Quady Vineyards’ Electra. Named for the little electric feel of frizzante on the tongue, is full of bright fresh melon/peach flavors, very light (only 4% alcohol). Good as a brunch wine, good as a light afternoon drink while waiting for the guests, good as a pre-dinner aperitif, good frozen as a sorbet for between courses, good after dinner with fruit and light desserts and perfect to hand to the hostess and it won't break the bank. "The angel on the label just says holidays."

Allan Benton loves grits and cornmeal from Falls Mill in Belvidere, TN. “the right cornmeal goes a long way towards a country boy’s gourmet feast!”

This week I cover:

• Fabulous, fun gifts under $40
• Chocolate Gifts of all sorts, truffles, buddhas and more.
• Ice, Ice Baby - -Holiday Drinks Rock covers a few holiday drink suggestions.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Greetings from Toronto!

I'm logging in a quick hello here, amidst a flurry of activity, tasting, shopping and even some ice skating, I've managed to visit wine country, scoop up some cheeses, and gather more great holiday entertaining ideas. How about a selection of sweet and savory shortbread squares from a couple of hot entrepreneurs? "Horizontal trade" cacao for your next mole sauce? Ginger-Rhubarb for the best new cranberry sauce?

More soon!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Happy Mice:

The New York TImes reports a new study on that red wine miracle: resveratrol. Not only is it possibly linked to limiting obesity but it also increases endurance. So let me be the first to recommend red wine with your oysters. Aphrodesiac + endurance, and I end up skinny, too?

Happy Me:

If that doesn't whet your appetite, why not wet your whistle? Each year people recommend Beaujolais Nouveau for Thanksgiving dinner. Just a timing thing, I assumed, because I never thought it was the right wine for the occasion. Nouveau is one thing, but other Beaujolais might do quite nicely. How about Moulin a Vent, for example? If you want a great primer on all of Beaujolais, see Jonathon Alsop's article "Rethinking Beaujolais".

Happy Thanksgiving:

To my readers in the 'Lower 48", have a great day, relax, enjoy, watch the games. I'll be at the Toronto Gourmet Food and Wine Show (thank heaven for Tivo) this holiday and look forward to reporting back soon!

Cheers!

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Jonathon Alsop has been writing about wine since 1989. He is author of the wine column "In Vino Veritas" as well as feature articles for La Vie Claire, Cultured Living, Beverage Magazine, the Associated Press, and many others. In addition to writing, Jonathon lectures on wine, conducts wine tasting classes, and hosts wine events around the country. You can reach Jonathon at jon@invinoveritas.com and read more of his wine writing here. To learn about upcoming wine classes and events, click here.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

The French Culinary Institute announced a name change earlier this year, or so I thought. At present they are emphatically saying they are not changing their name but rather, enveloping the well-respected French Culinary Institute within its brand new home: The International Culinary Center.

They kicked off the “expanded home” with a pricey event showcasing internationally acclaimed chefs such as Ferran Adrià and others comprising Spain’s Top Ten. Food and wine of Spain were highlighted and “molecular gastronomy” was discussed by the master himself, who does not use the term. FCI has also added Italian cooking expertise and more.

What does this mean? I believe it signifies an increasing sophistication and awareness among chefs, the culinary world, and educators that the rarified air does not belong only to the French. No one would deny the debt owed to French traditions, but it would be ri-donk-u-lous at this point in time to ignore the contributions to the culinary world of Spain, Italy, and more. It is a smaller world, but a richer one to be sure.

As I gather my additions to the 2006 Gourmet Gift Guide I am excited to add cooking classes at The French Culinary Institute. Classes include: Essential of Italian Cooking; Tapas Essentials; Artisanal Bread Baking. Prices range from $650.00 for a three day seminar to almost $6,000.00 for more extensive courses.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Even if you are the world's worst procrastinator, you can still pull off a Thanksgiving feast to be proud of. See my Ten Point Plan for Turkey Day Procrastinators.

Two recipes you can use, even if you're not doing the whole thing in a last minute frenzy, are offered here. Compound butters add depth to many dishes, roasts, potatoes, soups. Here I offer a good one to slip in between your turkey's breast meant and skin.

Compound butter

• 2 TBSP fresh chopped parsley
• 1 TBSP fresh chopped thyme
• 1 TBSP fresh chopped rosemary
• 1 tsp fresh chopped sage
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/4 tsp lemon juice
• 1/4 tsp lemon zest

Add above to one stick of softened unsalted butter. Mix thoroughly. Slide some in between the breast meat and skin and your turkey or chicken will be deliciously self-basted. Massage some on the outside of the bird as well. Sprinkle bird with spice rub or Bell's Seasoning.

To store: Put on a sheet of plastic wrap in a log shape. Fold over the plastic wrap, use back of knife to push butter into log shape. Twist ends and wrap in foil. Can freeze or refrigerate for future use.

Jackie's Killer Sweets

Sweet potatoes are delicious, healthy, and easy. These are at least two of the three. They go well with pork, ham or turkey.

• 3 lbs sweet potatoes.Peeled and cut into chunks.
• 1 C light brown sugar
• 1/2 stick unsalted butter
• 1/4 C orange juice
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/3 - 1/2 C bourbon
• Maple syrup to taste

Steam sweet potatoes until just tender. Cool, uncovered. Place in buttered baking dish. Simmer sugar, butter, OJ, salt until sugar is dissolved and syrup thickens. Stir in bourbon. Drizzel over potatoes. Bake about an hour. Baste occasionally. Top with a drizzle of maple syrup. Can be made ahead.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

In the Chrisitian Science Monitor, Amelia Thomas recently wrote about Dining in the Dark at London's Dans Le Noir restaurant. In my piece on Montreal's O.Noir restaurant I discussed the whole "dark dining" concept which is taking off.

In Thomas' piece on the London restaurant, I found many of the same observations revealed, and themes echoed in other dark dining experiences. Even the simple epiphany that the blind servers become guides for the temporarily "blind" patrons. How difficult to feel a new dependency, when we value so highly such things as competence and independence.

Recently, I was reminded of this experience at Boston's Plum Produce (a recently opened, gorgeous little boîte of a produce store.) Customer after customer picked up a vial of dark green powder and asked what it was. I too had smelled the familar scent of the powder, and struggled to reconcile what I saw first, then smelled. My vision told me this was a dried, powdered dark green vegetable. Spinach? Kale?

The vial held powdered celery. The familiar scent was confirmed with one more whiff, then the recognition that our vision and our routine ways of reconciling information actually impeded our abiltiy to correctly identify what we knew to be true.

This is the essence of Chef Ferran Adria's mission, too, I believe. His goal, and those of many his followers, is to present familiar flavors and foods in wholly unfamiliar ways so that we are unjaded again and able to experience things "with fresh eyes."

"Dark dining" or "molecular gastronomy" or a simple bit of powdered vegetable (just imagine the pumpkin powder for gnocchi?!) We can experience a sense of child-like wonder about foods once again. Allons-y!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

This week I'll continue with Thanksgiving Tips and also start my series on Gourmet Holiday Gifts. I'm always on the hunt for good gourmet gifts for myself or others. If you're not going to get me my own microgravity bioreactor, then you might want to peruse this list for other ideas.

Over the coming weeks, I'll cover gourmet gifts from the small trifles to the super-luxe. And I do mean super-luxe...other categories will include:

• When money is no object (mostly for laughs, but I wouldn't turn these down!)
• Gifts from $100.00 - $40.00
• Fun gifts under $40.00
• Useful, unique gifts under $20.00

I'll also be gathering great ideas for creating your gourmet gifts.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I know people are getting cranked up (in good ways and not so good ways) about the upcoming holidays. Thanksgiving is my favorite; filled with good food, friends, football. I want to help de-stress it for everyone. Read all about my regular Orphans', Refugees' and Procrastinators' Thanksgiving on my other blog. That article includes my Thanksgiving Spice Rub recipe.

Although, I'll be covering the Toronto Gourmet Food and Wine Show (held the long weekend of American Thanksgiving), I'll be sharing tips and recipes here. From now through the holidays.

Here at Suite101, I'd like to start with a couple of quick "cheats" for Thanksgiving. First time cooks in particular should appreciate these. For example: Thanksgiving Cheat #1: Wondra Sauce and Gravy Flour. See my Chicken Marsala recipe for another use. Chicken Marsala - It's What's For Dinner Tonight.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

As with love, in the world of pizza, some things change and some stay the same. One constant is that good pizza has character. Like a hearty Chicago style pizza for those inclined in that direction. I had to try it before I continued discounting it as I have since trying my first Pizzeria Uno “Chicago Deep Dish Pizza. I knew it was bad, I just didn’t know whether it was authentic.

Jamie and Bobbie Deen to the rescue. Lo and behold, they do a show on Chicago and visit Lou Malnatis. One of the driving forces behind their road trip show, is that all these family owned restaurants they visit will deliver their specialty right to your door. My husband looked at me and said, ‘you can’t really say you don’t like deep dish based on Uno’s anymore.’

So we ordered. It arrived frozen in dry ice, a day earlier than expected. Luckily, it didn’t sit by our door too long before we found it. You can immediately see, smell and taste the difference between this pie and any other deep dish pie I've seen before. It’s far superiour to Uno’s (no surprise) but it didn't embody the rapturous, joy-inspiring qualities of the pizza of my dreams. Thin, crisp, slightly charred crust, for example.

I will say that the quality of their tomatoes was as-advertised. According to the website, “each year the Malnati brothers go to California and meet personally with the tomato growers and the finest vine ripened plum tomatoes are then blended and canned exclusively for Malnati's use.“ There’s nothing I like more than a good tomato.

We ordered a “roni” to share. The sausage pie was unavailable due to the huge hit from the show. In what has to be a tongue-in-cheek reference to New Yorkers’ claim that their water makes their bagels unique, Malnati’s website also claims Chicago’s water makes their pizzas better. I can't speak to their water, but the NYC water is legendary and truly good.

Another pizza source, if you use the term loosely, is Domino’s and they too are staking their latest marketing campaign on a tie to New York. Their latest is their “Brooklyn Style Pizza.” Everyone from the Brooklyn borough president to Adam at SliceNY, to a local Italian food authority who consulted to Domino’s is horrified at this abomination. Take a look at Kim Severson’s Brooklyn Style Pizza Meets the Real Deal post in the New York Times. Not only is the pie under-whelming (what would you expect?) but the straight outta central casting characters don’t cut it with the real people interviewed, either.

The only people I know who admit to ordering a Domino's pizza did it at a restaurant whose service was so slow, they had one delivered to their table through the window. Just to make a point! Now that, I can live with.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Remember the old anti-drug commercials? This is your brain versus this is your brain on drugs? I wish I could accurately describe them to you, but I'm afraid I've already lost too many brain cells...but my point is, and I DO have one...my point is....

Bill Buford's hysterical piece in the New Yorker October 2, 2006. TV Dinners chronicles his voluntary submission to a grueling 36 hour Food Network Marathon. At the end of which, he was spewing silly drivel such as "First, we cut our bread" and "Do you konw why we cut our bread?" Keep in mind, these gems were delivered by the author, in his own kitchen. To no one.

His dissection of the crafting of a mass-market food channel (including hours of shooting simple things like pecans or diced onions) is a fun window into the food-as-porn-industry.

There's also a fair assessment comparing early icons, such as my idol Julia Child who actually taught us things as compared to say, made-for-TV-bimbo Sandra Lee, who opens cans and containers to make dinner and proudly proclaims her favorite hour of the day is the cocktail hour. Okay, so maybe I agree with Sandra on one thing...

All of this is a lovely prelude to the launch later this month of The Joy of Cooking's 75th Anniversary edition. You may never have to, or want to cook half the things in this valuable reference book. But, any cook, new or old, will find helpful reminders and basic guidance in this celebrated, much published, much purchased cooks' bible.

• See Happy Birthday Joy of Cooking for my thoughts on the dumbing down of cookbooks and a really great apple cake recipe.
• And if you're interested (and not at work and the kids are in bed) in a very entertaining view of how the food network stars are sold to us, see Food Network or Porn? Warning: you may lose your appetite for lunch...or just have some great marinara and a laugh.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

In Pizza - that's Amore! I shared my experience with the heavenly New Haven pie, as well as my delight with a recent Boston entry. Slashfood, an excellent food news aggregator site points us to Ed Levine's recent picks as revealed in Details Magazine. Check out the link, I'm thrilled he mentions our own Picco here in Boston.

In other pizza-related news: one of the recent Deen boys' shows focused on Chicago. I was feeling a little remiss in not having covered Chicago deep dish style pie, so thought this was a perfect opportunity to try it out at home. Fuggedaboudit!

I have discovered you can order one pie. And have (at $37.95 US ). Stay tuned and I'll let you know what the verdict is on Chi-style 'za!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I've been on a smoke kick lately. Maybe it started with the holiday theme, spiced nuts are a favorite nibble and I always add a bit of liquid smoke. Maybe it was the triple-smoked sturgeon from Dean and Deluca (one of our favorite food-porn suppliers).

Smoky flavors just seem to go with the holidays and the cool fall weather. Maybe it's remembering when I lived with a fireplace in the house, maybe it's an older association than that. Smoke is primal. For whatever reason, eating delicious foods with smokey flavors makes me feel like I've wrapped myself up in a favorite sweater.

With the holiday theme in mind, take a look at my post on Artisanal Smoked Ham. This was, and continues to be, a real treat.

I made a smoked fish spread with the sturgeon,. As I nibble and write, it occurs to me this is a perfect addition to a table of hors d'oeuvres. When planning party nibbles, try to balance rich with clean flavors, crunchy with smooth, etc. It makes for a more interesting spread.

Another favorite is spiced nuts. Here's a quick and easy favorite. Pepitas, pumpkin seeds would work as well as almonds or peanuts.

Homemade Smoked Almonds

• 2 C nuts (whole almonds, my favorite)
• 1 TBSP + 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tsp liquid smoke
• 1 TBSP olive oil
• 1 TBSP butter, melted
• 1 tsp vinegar (white or sherry)
• 1-2 TBSP Tabasco
• 1/2 tsp cayenne
• 1 tsp chipotle peppers in adobo, minced
• 1 TBSP kosher salt

Preheat oven to 250. Line cookie sheet with parchment paper. Place all ingredients but salt in a large bowl, toss to coat. Spread on sheet. Bake, stirring occasionally, til deep golden brown. About 20 minutes depending on size of nuts used. Remove from oven, loosen from pan, sprinkle immediately with salt. Set aside to cool completely.

See my rules for entertaining and recipes here.

For more holiday party tips see Devy Stone's Survival Guide.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

As the holidays approach or are here, depending on where you live and how far in denial you are...I've begun dreaming about my favorite holiday: Thanksgiving.

My niece guest authored a spot on my personal blog called You Are Your Spice Cabinet. She, like many recent grads, found herself setting up her first kitchen and a little overwhelmed. She's also bewildered at the thought of her first Thanksgiving meal. I love the holiday and have hosted many. I thought I'd offer my Thanksgiving Spice Rub recipe and introduce my Orphans', Refugees', and Procrastinators' Thanksgiving story.

Spice rubs, kitchen gifts and gourmet treats make terrific gifts for holiday hosts, or housewarming dinners.

In Toronto, the St. Lawrence Market offers many gourmet gift options and if you're looking for gifts to bring when you're invited to a holiday dinner why not bring your own handmade spice blend in a fancy jar?

It's also cooler now and gumbo is a perfect fall meal. My Cajun Spice Blend in a nice jar, with some dish towels inside a cast iron dutch oven would make a unique housewarming gift for your niece or nephew moving into their first apartment.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

A quick reminder, as the profile of fair trade products rises, that superior Oregano is available through the Northern Arizona University Center for Sustainable Environments. See my Divine Sonoran Oregano article for more info.

And oregano is a key ingredient in good pizza, but not Japanese pizza. Several readers have joined or started discussions after reading my Pizza post , including some interesting questions about pizza toppings and pizza etiquette.

And I promise to leave Toronto soon, but you've just got to know what it offers foodies.

Speaking of foodies: what are your thoughts on the new show on PBS? Gourmet's Ruth Reichl (I'm a big fan) is featured, as is some fairly distracting editing, and some wonderful food. Check out your local PBS listings and let me know what you think...

Posted by Jacqueline Church

In the US, we know that Missouri is the "show me" state. I'm not really from Missouri but I am often accused of being a bit of a skeptic...I have to admit it does nothing to instill confidence in this writer that the website touts Chinese governmental authorities' imprimatur of sanitation quality . On the "awards" page it leads with the Hainan provincial entrepreneurial award. Okay, we're talking about China; commerce vs. environmental or health concerns. Let's just say the record is well-documented.

I'll continue to investigate this new product, and report back. Tilapia farmed in pure rainwater which is collected in rainwater. No water from rivers, estuaries or other surface sources. (What about runoff?)

But hey, we don't all have to skeptics. Anyone wishing to shell out a premium price to try it can find out more at HQ Fish. Why not try some cool fish for your hot recipes? Proving her A-list insider status once again, my colleague Mary Luz offers recipes that take advantage of beautiful sustainable fish. The recipes come from none other than Jamie Kennedy himself. For those of you without such a well-connected culinary guide, Jamie Kennedy is only one of the hottest chefs in Toronto.

Get your pocket guide to sustainable seafood here.

Zero-Toxin is branded "TiLoveYa", clever enough. But clever does not a health claim prove. And perhaps it is fabulous and pure. We'll see, just thought you should know dear readers. What ever our final opinion is on this new offering, you can say you heard it here first!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

A procrastinator par excellence, I am. I find myself today with some pressing work and deadlines looming. So of course, it's time to check my favorite food blogs, right?

FIrst I stopped by Cheese by Hand. This is a great site that captures the journey of two ex-desk jockeys with a love for artisanal cheese. Michael and Sasha have traveled the US meeting small cheesemakers and learning their stories. It's a really fun site, with loads of great info. They even have the modern equivalent of flipbooks on today's post. The mozzarella ladies look like they're having too much fun.

Next, I checked out Cooking up a Story. Michael and Sasha were filmed at the Portland Farmer's Market telling their story and meeting a couple of cheesemakers there. Herbes de Provence cheese, anyone?

Okay, I'm this close to convincing myself it's time to bake that apple pie, but sadly, I think the work will win out...maybe a tiny piece of cheese first. That 8 year Ontario Cheddar from the St. Lawrence Market maybe? Or a bit of that Truffled Borcetta? Oh that cheddar will be so nice with the pie...

Posted by Jacqueline Church

There's a terrific food proverb that happens to be Latvian: "A smiling face is half of the meal."

Doing research for another piece, I stumbled upon an old Saveur Magazine piece on a chef in Latvia who adores Jerk Chicken and established one of the capital city's first restaurants, called Vincents. The chef traveled and cooked all over the world, ultimately returning to his parents' homeland and opening the restaurant.

Smiling faces abound in Toronto and the jerk place we found on Spadina was no exception. The place was clean and open and bright. Ackee Tree ("We're not fast food, we're good food fast.") is painted in colors of the islands. Judging by at least some of the accents, also frequented by Jamaicans. We were looking for a little something to carry us to dinner. Walking for hours and hours builds the appetite.

The counter man quickly offered his suggestion that we share a full plate - he'd substitute the side for the jerk fries we also wanted to try. Perfect. And Caleb had his first Ting. It's the grapefruit soda that you see everywhere in Jamaica. Hits right between tart and sweet and is perfect with the spicy jerk.

So, if you happen to be in Riga, Latvia or Toronto Canada - check out some jerk chicken, have a Ting and a smile.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Tainted lettuce, overfished species, what's a person to do? Remember to shop where you know your sources. If your farmer doesn't have a face, you should be frightened. This week, Mary Luz Mejia will help us make wiser fish choices.

Tilapia, one of the safely farmed fishes that she mentions, works perfectly in the Ginger Scented fish recipe that was the focus of my inaugural "What's for Dinner Tonight?" feature.

My cousin asked about the cedar papers I'd written of in a prior blog post. The technique of planking fish on cedar is common in the Pacific Northwest. These delicate cedar papers work well on an indoor grill or in the oven. Fish such as salmon or tilapia, and even a lovely veggie mix would work very well. Heck you could even throw in some seitan! Julie at Great Lakes Grilling Company assures me that the sheets are available and will soon be featured on their website. In the meantime, give Julie a call and tell her I sent you! (1-877-791-8600.)

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I must have fish on the brain. I actually had grouper tonight (real grouper from my reputable fishmonger) and had shark for the first time in eons the other day...now this.

Well, they say it's brain food, right?

I'm excited to share this recipe to kickoff this new feature. In each "What's for Dinner" column, I'll include a recipe divided into two parts:

• ingredients you should have on hand
• what you might need to pick up or run out for

I'll also include tips, either timesavers or nutrional nuggets or I'll highlight a techinque. In this ginger scented steamed fish, I highlight steaming, revisit the Julienne cut and offer a timesaving tip.

Steamed fish can also be dressed with a simple sauce of fresh lime juice and Kampot Pepper.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

To honor loyal readers looking for daily meal planning help, I have decided to start a new feature here on the Gourmet Food page. Coming soon: your “What’s for Dinner Tonight” feature.

I will be posting a recipe along with a shopping list of ingredients. I’ll separate the ingredients by: what you probably have at home, and what you might need to pick up.

The idea will be to keep it short and sweet so that a harried person at the end of the work day can click, print and scoot home, list in hand, confident that dinner plans are under control.

A quick stop on the way home for an item or two and then dinner on the table in less time than you can say “Is your homework done? Has anyone walked the dog?”

I’m still fleshing out this idea, so please drop me a line to tell me what you most want to see.

• Something new and different?
• Is it something that kids can cook with you?
• Does prep work the night before sound like a good idea or bad?

Also, what tips might be most helpful?

• Items to stock in your pantry?
• Weekend things you can do to expand your menu choices during the week?
• Shortcuts? How to's?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Can't you hear Popeye laughing

That high pitched ah-kee-kee-kee sort of giggle he had?

Well, maybe he'd be crying. I don't know.

The whole e.coli Spinach fiasco is a good opportunity to revisit some of the tenets of our version of eating local. Not the fundamentalist West Coast style, but the common sense East Coast style multi-culti Omnivore's Dilemma.

The takeaway message from the most recent e.coli outbreak is not to stop eating spinach. The take home message ought to be to know your farmers. If you're buying from a local farmer, even better, an organic local farmer, you can safely enjoy spinach. The New York Times quotes Dr. David Acheson, chief medical officer of the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition at the F.D.A., confirming local spinach, particularly on the East Coast,is safer.

It's the big boys who'll poison you while selling you "healthy" food trucked across country. So, to review:

• Yes, eat your spinach.
• From your local farmers' market
.
• No, not from the mega-mart.
• No, do not rely on the government's saftey standards.

Remember they're reducing the already miniscule testing for mad cow disease.

Cue Popeye, "I've had all I can stands, and I can't stands no more!"

And, while we're at it...has anyone else noticed the absence of info on the contaminated long-grain rice news? California growers must be searching the skies for the plague of locusts next.

For another take on the Spinach issue see my friends at The Ethicurean: Spinach Ripple.

For those interested in eating local in Rhode Island, see my discussion boards for a reader's suggestion and weblink. Thanks Barbara!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

To see the world again with a child's eyes. Can we achieve this through food? Through a meal?

How to clear the fog of day-to-day life and see things in a fresh way? I've written about that "Ah-ha!" moment of recognition of something lost that happens when you taste an heirloom tomato.

Other artisanal products or heirloom breeds do the same, such as Kurobuta pork which many say reminds them of "what pork used to taste like."

Travel can disorient us enough to breakthrough our familiar routines and give us that whole-self, child-like perspective on things we experience. Scott Haas in the March 2006 Wine Spectator began an essay that captures the essence of the feeling: "Facing a language I can't read or understand properly allows me to see and feel long lost days of childhood when the world was more mysterious, sensual and forbidding. I am put in the delightful position of being an observer."

I think it's more than observing. In fact, I wrote this week about two ways that one can experience the familiar, as new. In Dining in Darkness Reveals Joy I introduce a new concept being offered in Montreal. I also revisit Chef Ferran Adria, who some see as a provocateur, using technology and science to push culinary boundaries. My introduction to Adria was Anthony Bourdain's show and the piece I wrote Bourdain Encounters Adria received quite a bit of notice.

Interviewed by Powell Books recently, Anthony Bourdain hints at these same concepts. The chef, author, travel show host has many fans. This interview explains in great measure his appeal to me. He speaks of the fundamental underlying nexus between food and sex.

Asked to offer a favorite sentence or passage from another writer, he cites A.J. Leibling: "A man who is rich in his adolescence is almost doomed to be a dilettante at the table. This is not because all millionaires are stupid but because they are not impelled to experiment."

In answering the question "What do you dislike most?" Bourdain says, "When I encounter an utter lack of curiosity in a person I'm always oppressed by the experience. Snobbery - particularly when it comes to food - is a terrible sin. And certainty will destroy us all."

Curiosity, experimentation, seeking ways to experience life with freshness: these can show us new worlds. Bourdain, Adria and O.Noir offer a chance at the delight and the joy that is ours to be had.

We need only lift the veil of the mundane from our eyes and our palates. I invite you to find your inner toddler and dig in.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Everyone knows I love pickles. If you do too, and live in or near New York, I just heard about an event for you.

The Sixth Annual NYC International Pickle Day is September 17th - that's tomorrow!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

London restaurant introduces unique way to reach young diners with budding interest in food.

Roussillon in London's Pimlico neighborhood presents a "Mini-Gastronome Menu." The concept is a brilliant way to introduce children to seasonal food, various techniques and preparations. The chef couples familiar ingredients with new ones in a special complimentary menu offered to guests under age eleven.

To quote one young diner, "The menu looked horrible because it had too many vegetables, but when I ate the food, it was nice and not just healthy." She also loved a mustard dipping sauce for her carrots.

Interestingly, both of two young reviewers highlighted in August Waitrose's Food Illustrated, contrast the food served at the restaurant with the food they're served at school. Jamie Oliver's efforts to improve school food has won awards and reached hundreds of schools throughout England. Looks like he may have found a new lunch lady to join forces with.

Just as cooking with kids can introduce them to healthier eating, so can dining out. Once children reach the age where they can enjoy a grown-up meal out, it is a wonderful way to get them excited in eating well.

The Executive Chef, Alexis Gauthier also offers a menu highlighting

edible flowers which coincides with the Chelsea Flower Show in May. Something unexpected, like a dish made with flowers or flower essences, can really stimulate a child's curiosity in new foods.

Brilliant!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I could be on the verge of something here. Cruelty-free veal? What would warm the heart of a PETA girl like me more? (That's People Eating Tasty Animals, folks.) I've wondered why people don't investigate more humane ways of producing the food omnivores crave, rather than judge or ban. One producer in Canada (of course!) lets ducks waddle up to their larger portions of grain. Voluntary overfeeding...

Tipped off by Boston's Oracle of Dining, Louisa Kasdon, I discover a new and sane entrant into our dilemma-frought omnivorous existance. Humanely produced veal. It's true, I will investigate further and report back but it seems to be just on the verge of popping up on menus here. Kasdan reports that Ana Sortun of Oleana prepared an All-Azuluna veal meal for local chefs who were roundly impressed.

Oh the joy. Imagine a guilt-free meal again! See also: Azuluna Brands.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Remember this riddle?

Q. Why is it impossible to starve in the desert?

A. Because of the sand which is there. (sandwiches there...)

Get it?

Well my sandwiches post prompted a query from a reader for a good Italian Sub in Boston.

I like Sam La Grassa's for a downtown spot. Bring a friend and split the behemoth. There are also terrific Italian subs to be had around Boston, especially North End.

Another reader asks for recommendations in South Beach, where it is impossible to starve because of the sand---okay, never mind...

but seriously folks...South Beach has terrific food!

• There's Wish Restaurant in The Hotel. Tell Chef Bloise I said hi!
• There's Azul & Michy's - which I am eager to try but haven't yet. Very good and interesting reviews of Chef Michele Berenstein's food.
• Joe's Stone Crab - go for lunch in the takeout place. Fab.
• Smith and Wolensky's - sit at the bar, prepare to be well-cared for and tell Joe I said hi.

If you're thinking of having grouper, be sure to ask if there were any substitutions.

Also, in South Beach, some of the best deals are in the Cuban diners. Not just for sandwiches (which are terrific) but dishes like chicken and rice, empanadas, and so on, great mid-day meals, preceding long walks or nap on the beach.

August Waitrose Food Illustrated has a common sense piece I really appreciated about the whole local food only movement. Read Iqbal Wahhab's "Fresh Foreign Legion" article for a responsible restauranteur's balanced approach. Hint: He's offering an authentic if imported menu, then donating to green causes the cost of the "carbon footprint." Can't ask for more, a very interesting article, all around.

Cheers!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

It's National Mushroom Month here in the US. More mushrooms than ever are available in your farmers' markets and grocery stores. And more research is showing these friendly fungi are not only good, but good for us.

What has more potassium than a banana? A Portobello.

Selenium, Copper, B-complex vitamins: all critical to various bodily functions such as production of red blood cells. Mushrooms are loaded with these essential nutrients.

In my Mail Order Produce article (from France to China to Boston in a Box) I introduced you to exotic

Bear's Head mushrooms, but even your friendly white button mushrooms are getting lots of attention these days.

Multiple studies are turning up important health benefits including boosting the body's immune response. Researchers are particularly interested in its positive effects on prostate cancer.

Mushrooms contain high levels of glutamate, nature's flavor enhancer. Similar to the more familiar MSG (monosodium glutamate), naturally occuring glutamate found in high quantities in mushrooms significantly enhance flavor of many foods.

Check the cover of September's Gourmet Magazine for a great photo including Drumstick mushrooms. These mushrooms are often part of our Shabu Shabu dinners.

They are unsung heroes, turning eggs into omelettes. Easy and elegant appetizers are minutes away from a simple carton of button mushrooms.

What are your favorites?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

This just in: gamers and geeks must eat, too.

Nintendo is said to be working on a cooking tutorial, see the YouTube piece and watch with a Japanese friend if possible: Nintendo Cooks. You'll get the point even if you don't speak Japanese, though.

I've been trying to tell my geek friends that we all must eat and Red Bull and Ramen don't count. For an excellenet example of the perfect synchronicity of gourmet and geekdom, see Cooking for Engineers.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

The growing movement to encourage food choices that are: S/O/L/E (Sustainable/Organic/Local/Ethical) has alighted in an unexpected place. A Westin hotel!

Torrential downpours last night enticed us to break our trip home up with a quick overnight stay in Providence. We were surprised to see "sustainable agriculture" on the menu.

The breakfast notes include the following:

"Grains for our Pancakes (honey buckwheat, honey buttermilk, or blueberry buttermilk) and Johnny Cakes are stone-ground at Kenyon's Grist Mill in West Kingston, Rhode Island. They are an example of our commitment of support for local sustainable agriculture. Our waffles and hotcakes are served with whipped butter and pure Rhode Island maple syrup from Charley's Sugar Shack.

We also enjoyed organic ginger carrot juice and had other choices including local fresh milk and local farmer's cheese. Rhode Island corn salsa accompanied another dish.

No mention of where the eggs came from or whether they are free range, antibiotic free, or the sausage or fruit origins, but hey, it's a start. I've tried to find evidence of a corporate policy statement or shift, but have come up empty handed. Will keep you posted if I hear back.

Let's hope this trend continues. Take a moment to think through the operational issues of rolling this policy out over thousands of properties without losing out on economies of scale in purchasing. It's quickly apparent the challenges that an entity such as this one, serving hundreds of thousands of guests daily would face.

And yet, if we are to take the whole locavore/omnivore gospel to heart, we must honestly envision how such challenges will be met. Incrementally, with baby steps. Maybe we call it the "What about Bob" approach... I applaud it.

As consumers/guests we can also add our two cents' worth by filling out in-room surveys suggesting that we would prefer such options for in-room dining. Then, if and when prices rise, we have to stick by our favorite properties and pay them.

I want the food morality police to think these things through...one can dream.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

My adoration for foie gras is no secret. My devotion to the proper balance in the rule of law is unquestioned. My desire for each of us to make conscious choices and to take personal responsibility would not be doubted by anyone who talked to me for 5 minutes or read my work.

But someone who clearly has read nothing I've written on local, sustainable agriculture, or conscious food choices, has recently called me an "inhumane boor" for suggesting that hungry children deserve as much attention as overfeed ducks. He carries the weight of a "meetup group" in South Florida whose focus is animal rights. I'm all for animal rights, really. So that makes me an "inhumane boor?" He also goes on to make sweeping generalizations and assumptions about my lifestyle, my values, etc. Whatever.

But let's be clear: chefs in Chicago and other cities who serve foie gras are selling a legal product in demand. The government regulates the import of this product from abroad and regulates the sale and production of domestic varieties.

The CCC (Chicago City Council) has no more right to ban the sale of foie in their restaurants than they have to dictate green beans on Monday, beets on Tuesday. There is no compelling public health or safety issue at hand that might allow them to interfere with legally operating businesses. But - they have.

Chefs for Choice have backed a lawsuit raising these and other points and I, for one, applaud their efforts. I look forward to raising a glass of Sauternes with the chefs at the forefront soon.

Vive la Resistance!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Lynne Rossetto Kasper, author of The Splendid Table, the only cookbook to win both James Beard and Julia Child cookbook awards will headline the Blade Great Taste Toledo Food and Cooking Expo in October.

The well-known Italian food expert will demonstrate Rustic Italian and Elegant Italian cooking. Like so many leading chefs and authors today, she is also a booster of local and sustainable food. For more info click here or contact Kathie Smith at food@theblade.com.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Just returning from a non-stop feast of food and good times on Nantucket (more on that later), I spot a post on Chowhound.com entitled Random Act of Kindness. It's an interesting story and reminds me that we here in North America, often overlook the joy to be found in openness. We're so often looking for a return on our gesture, which completely misses the point in my opinion.

It reminds me of the time a stranger gave me a pint of his beloved, local peach ice cream, which he could only get in Philadelphia. He had packed a few pints in dry ice to take home when he'd had the occasion to be in Philadelphia on business. As we talked about food and about ice cream, he reached into his bag and insisted I take a pint of his treasured peach ice cream with me!

What is your favorite story about a random act of kindness from a stranger?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Today's Boston Globe has a photo and brief note by Joe Yonan about cedar grilling sheets. I had the chance to use them recently and like them. They are especially effective for city folks forced to use inside grills.

Cedar planks have been used in the Pacific Northwest for ages. The wood imparts a delicate flavor to fish cooked on it. You'll often see "Planked" Salmon on the menu in that region. Give it a try! The technique has become more widespread as people began to eat more salmon.

Cooking en papillote, is a French technique using silicone infused paper to enclose ingredients completely. Your fish, veggies or whatever will steam en papillote.

While the papers remain open on the ends (I tied mine with scallions) they do cook gently and get some steaming going.You have to soak them prior to use, as you would soak wooden skewers headed for the grill. This helps impart a gentle scent from the cedar.

Don't let the change of seasons keep you from grilling, bring it inside!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

You've been listening, right? As I urged you to buy from local farms, get to know your butcher, your fishmonger. Remember when I asked you to think about the distance your dinner traveled before it ended on your plate?

Remember the "mad cow" fright? We heard all about BSE and how it's incurable. Some bad PR and poor spin control resulting in yet another changing of the guard in ol' W's cabinet. et voila!

Here were are. Being lulled into a sense of comfort about the nasty problem, 'hasn't been in the headlines so it must've gone away' - I admit it, I've been thinking about tartar again...

The Boston Globe reports that the US Dept of Agriculture is proposing to cut back on testing of cattle for BSE or "mad cow" disease due to costs. Given that they acknowledge more cases than those they've found are likely to have occurred I'm not so comfortable with the scale of the proposed cutbacks.

According to the Globe, the cutback proposed will reduce the number of cows tested per day dropping it from the current 1000 per day (that's just 1%, by the way) to a new low of 110 per day. Um, my math's not the greatest but isn't that hovering near 1/10 of one percent?

Grass-fed beef is one solution. Knowing where your meat comes from, or better yet who it comes from is another.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Peppers and peppercorns have been valued all over the world. Join me as I reach back to my paternal Hungarian roots and discover Hungarian Hot Wax Peppers. Learn about Scoville units and how peppers' heat is measured.

We'll also travel the globe and discover dried peppercorns from Cambodia, Ecuador and India.

Peppercorns have been so highly valued in the past that they were traded as currency. Sailors on the spice route were often required to sew up pockets and forego wearing cuffs when entering dockside restaurants for fear they would abscond with the prized commodity.

My new pickled peppers are so good, you may want to dole them out judiciously, too. Perhaps it's the capsaicin we have to blame, but they are definitely something you can get hooked on!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

En Papilliote in French, or al Cartcoccio in Italian. In any language this method of cooking spells healthy, easy and dramatic dinner. Cooking in parchment paper is also a great way to use fresh fish, herbs, and summer vegetables.

You can use the bounty of the farmers markets and make completely vegetarian combinations, or go Provencal style with some heirloom tomatoes, olives and herbs.

Delicate mushrooms such as fresh shiitakes or Bear's Head Mushrooms are terrific in this method, too.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Exciting times here in the Gourmet corner. I got to revisit my memory of my Grandmother's pickled napa when researching the shiso mojito for an inquiring reader. Never underestimate the lasting power of touching people through the sharing of food. See today's food column in Boston.com for a touching remembrance of an Armenian woman whose love of food and people left a lasting impact on her fellow newsroom employees.

Other treasures from Boston:

• I just learned that the Chef's Collaborative (an organization promoting sustainable cuisine by celebrating the joys of local, seasonal, and artisanal cooking) is headquartered a stone's throw from me. Soon I'll have a report on my chat with a Chef's Collaborative board member, local chef and fellow herbal enthusiast.
• Remember the wine jukebox? I've lined up a local wine expert to enlighten us on this innovation in wine promotion.
• What goes better with wine than cheese? Renowned fromagiers are also in the line-up for your hard-working correspondent.

Send me any wine, cheese, herb questions you'd like me to ask and check out the truly international Shiso Mojito. Remember, it's "Kampai!" if you're imbibing with Japanese, not "Cin cin"!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Locavores and 100 Mile Diet advocates are raising awareness. And eyebrows.

Top Ten(plus) Reasons Why I Can't be a Locavore: (not necessarily ranked in order of significance)

1. Coffee/tea
2. Olives (like Lucques/Picholine/Nicoise; Kalamatas)
3. Wine (from France/California/Italy)
4. Soba/Somen/Udon/Pasta
5. Foie gras
6. Rice/Nori/Tofu
7. Sriracha/Belachan/Giulan Chile Sauce
8. Pizza/bread/wheat
9. Citrus
10. Shrimp/West Coast oysters
11. Chorizo/Andouille/Lapchong/Brats/Kielbasa
12. Pancetta/prosciutto/Jamon Serrano
13. Single Malt Scotch/Gin/Tequila
14. Avocados

Looking at that list I'd have to admit that there are at least ten pounds on my body that are somehow related to those ten plus reasons...not such a happy observation. But hey, if my shame helps you make better choices, so be it.

Read my full article Locavores and 100 Mile Dieters and learn more.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I've just learned about a new initiative launched by Epicurious.com to address the issues of childhood hunger.

We hear so much about childhood obesity these days, it would be easy to overlook the face of hunger in the U.S. Perhaps it's because obesity and related public health issues are easier to face. It is only somewhat disturbing to watch news about issues of plenty, problems of "too much." It is much more sobering to face the reality of scarcity, the issues of "not enough;" particularly when we're talking about our most vulnerable citizens.

I'll admit that I find it easier to ignore the public health issues associated with obesity. I find it much more difficult to reconcile the value I place on personal responsibility with the hard facts surrounding hunger in the U.S. It's hard to accept that millions of fellow citizens are going hungry when I'm stuffing myself with good food and ranting about people taking away my "right" to foie gras.

Happily, I have just been given an opportunity to turn my discomfort into action. Please join me in supporting this fantastic project addressing hunger relief. Tanya Wenman Steele, Editor, CondeNet staff, and top chefs like Michael Mina and Michael Schlow, are working together with America's Second Harvest to feed our hungriest children.

There are three basic ways to support the anti-hunger initiative called WineDineDonate:

1. Host a fund-raising dinner party for a few friends and share the opportunity to support hunger relief. The WineDineDonate project will provide menus by top chefs, invites, even placecards.

2. Attend a WineDineDonate dinner at restaurants like Michael Mina in San Francisco and Via Matta in Boston. Half of all proceeds go to America's Second Harvest.

3. Make a donation.

The Boston dinner will take place at Via Matta on October 3, 2006.

Click on the links below to learn more, download menus, make donations, or buy tickets to events.

Epi-log, Ms. Steel's blog on Epicurious.com introduces the project, click here to read the Announcement and learn more.

Visit the WineDineDonate project website.

In the Boston area, another hunger relief organization is Project Bread.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Growing up I never had tea that was sweetened or flavored. Mint tea, long known for its calming effects on upset tummies always had the opposite effect on mine. I'm now a fan of sweet-tea and addicted to mint in my iced tea. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks?

Growing herbs in my urban garden allows me to experiment with new flavors in foods and drinks. Here are some of my favorite new Ice Tea combos:

• raspberry tea with mint
• regular tea (such as English Breakfast)with lemon simple syrup
• regular tea with lemon basil simple syrup

And here's tip from Cait at For Eyes: lavender in your tea. Lovely!

And don't forget the cocktails that benefit from herbs:

• mojitos
• caipirinhas
• bloody marys (Cait uses basil, I use dill)

Here's how simple, simple syrup is:

Dissolve sugar and water (2:1)in a small pot over medium high heat. Cool. Pour into a little pitcher for serving. I use an beautiful frosted bottle that held some yuzu vinegar, topped with a bar spout.

You can add fruit or herbs with the sugar. Strain.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I'm thrilled to report a couple of exciting discoveries. Remember my Layoff Pie? It just got better! Ever had a gooseberry? For a gorgeous photo see my post on leaf lard in the other blog. The second pie of the season was blackberry and gooseberry. I served it with a dollop of crème fraiche. I whipped the crème fraiche with some freshly grated lemon zest and a few teaspoons of confectioners sugar. Just when you thought pie couldn't get better...

The most thrilling pie report of all? One of my readers tried my pie recipe and had great success. This could not be more exciting!

Goosebumps!

Creme fraiche, I've learned is French (mais, bien sur) but can easily and cheaply be made at home. It's luscious and can be used in place of heavy cream or sour cream when you need to heat something (it doesn't curdle) and keeps longer.

The proportions I see most often are as follows: 2 C heavy cream and 2 Tbsp of buttermilk. Heated just to body temp, or left in warm spot for the cultures to do their work. Homemade Creme Fraiche can also be lightened by starting with half and half, which I'm going to have to try if I keep baking pies!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Fast forward to the present day. Now we have the Wine Jukebox.

I believe these work much like the Cruvinet systems worked; by infusing a shot of nitrogen each time a glass is measured out, keeping the bottle at correct serving temperatures and keeping them relatively well sealed. Think of the ubiquitous home wine preserving pump system, but much more effective.

I never understood why it happened that those places where one could actually order a glass of wine that didn't taste off, flat, or just plain gone, didn't last. Maybe it's just that wine consumption has reached a level that the costs outweigh the benefits. Or maybe it was the ferns.

But everything old is new again, and here we have a wine jukebox. Right here in good old Beantown. This requires a personal investigation. I'll keep you posted.

Remember that old James Taylor song "Hey mister that's me up there on that jukebox..."? Imagine if this wine jukebox takes hold, "Hey mister it's me down here under that jukebox..."

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Just back from a heart-warming wedding of good friends Tom & Leslie and notice an interesting juxtaposition of three food service related experiences.

• One, the New Haven Connecticut Wooster Street mecca for pizza lovers was a revelation. I love learning about something I thought I knew. Great server gave history (Sally's opened in 1938; original pizzas didn't have mozzarella, that was an American addition), gave advice on ordering, cracked jokes and served every table in the joint.
• Two, stopped by The Capital Grille in Providence en route back to Boston today. Nothing like a perfect steak (Delmonico or "Del" as Paul calls them, med-rare), glass of wine (Profile Meritage - incredible!), heirloom tomato salad - you know I love them, to take the sting out of having to wait for rush hour traffic to disipate.
• Three, culling through the weekend's emails I see a response from the Foodnetwork "Customer Service" staff that hits me like a slap in the face.Iron Chef Cat Cora recently used some peppers she quickly referred to as "Basque peppers." As you know, I'm reviewing the seminal Basque food guide and could find no reference. So, I dropped a note to the FN staff. The response goes something like this: "we don't give recipes. Enjoy the website and our shows." Of course there's the perfunctory "thank you for your interest..." yeah, that sounds like you're really grateful...

oy vey.

Stay tuned for my Basque notes, more on Sally's Pizza and other food musings from the weekend.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Bobby Flay takes on USMC Captain Eric Dominijanni in "Throwdown".

In this new Food Network show, the "Iron Chef" challenges amateur cooks to a "throwdown" - challenging them to an impromptu cook-off on their turf, in their specialty.

The latest episode (airing July 20 in my area and later over the next few days in other time zones) features USMC Captain Eric Dominijanni, also known as Disco or Captain D., "is a proud Marine with a mission--to grill his award-winning steaks as a morale booster to his men" according to the USMC release.

The show was in filmed in Twentynine Palms California, in sweltering heat. Capt D. never stopped smiling. I won't spoil it for you - but here's a tip for future throwdown contestants: it might not hurt to have 30 or so brawny, uniformed Marines in your corner when Flay shows up.

I wrote about the fundraiser cookbook published by Weber Grills in a previous post and on the leather district gourmet blog. But, Flay's show is a new opportunity to get the word out about this great project.

Command of the Grill a cookbook produced by Weber, in time for summer BBQ's. The entire proceeds from sales of the grilling guide go to four charities helping US Marines and their families.

Please go to Weber's site to purchase the book and support cause. It's a $10.00 investment that is bound to inspire your grilling and your pride!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

For years I've loved Spain from afar. I've loved Spanish food, been charmed by her people, moved by her art.

Though it was years ago, I still remember the stirring music of flamenco guitarist Carlos Montoya, through the gift of a rare mother-daughter excursion in my childhood. More recently, I've attended parties where the huge paella dishes were paraded through hungry guests. Flamenco masters and students were in attendance. One diva of famed lineage and talents, made a grand entrance, and singled me out, me - to hold her wine glass. (Oh yes. She did.)

Later in life, I was fortunate to meet friends who lived in Spain, traveled around Spain, studied in Spain and emigrated from Spain. I helped light the candles on the first night when a good friend opened a fabulous Spanish restaurant in Cambridge. Critically acclaimed it was just slightly ahead of its then-edgy neighborhood.

Through my husband's family, I have been introduced to the hearty Basque cuisine which curiously has taken root in Kern County California. As the mountains of food kept coming, I quipped, "this may explain why there are no Basque supermodels."

But my true confession, aside from the long-standing affair, is that I seldom cook Spanish food and, I'm largely unfamiliar with Spanish wines. Oh sure, I've made an occasional paella. I appreciate a nice Rioja. I own a treasured pair of tapasdishes, a decent paella pan...and that's about it.

Well, we are in for a Spanish adventure, mi amor! I've just cracked the cover of the authoritative cookbook: "The Cuisines of Spain - Exploring Regional Home Cooking" by Teresa Barrenechea. The dedication alone gives me goosebumps. This love affair is only getting better!

"To all the men and women who work the fields, fish the seas, and tend the herds, enabling the rest of us to enjoy the gifts nature provides. And to my family."

Venga! (Come!)

Join me over the next few weeks as I dip into the regional cuisine of Spain, review the book, and make the food. We'll learn together as we eat our way through Spain. Email me to let me know what you want me to tackle: a particular dish? unfamiliar ingredient? Whatever!

And remember, "Cin Cin!" may an acceptable toast in Spain, but never in Japan - who knew it's slang for penis?!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Perusing the gorgeous and highly functional (hope someday, someone describes me that way!) new Chowhound website,I saw a post by fellow chowhound,"Scooby".

Here's the Scooby-snack du jour, dear readers: Cheese by Hand is a terrific blog of two cheese lovers who traveled from artisanl cheese maker to artisinal cheese maker, state to state.

I've just begun to enjoy it, as I realize that I've foolishly allowed my fromage stock to disappear! That means a trip to Formaggio's or Savenor's soon!

What's your favorite kind of cheese?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I've got one or two pet peeves, but also have experienced the service equation from the other side of the table/bar. One of my top pet peeves is the question whether I'm "still working on that." Despite the occasional lapse in manners, I don't believe I've publicly dined in a way to conjure up hard hats and jackhammers. Okay, not often, anyway...

One commenter gets riled at the server who pronounces "steak frites" as "steak fritz", even after being corrected. That reminds me of a sweet young kid in the middle of no-o-o-where who was my server on a consulting trip. My heart goes out to the kid and more, to the chef, most likely an earnest recent culinary school grad.

I was informed that we had a choice of two vegetables today, "hairy coats" or "vertz." I hope the people in that town gained an appreciation for what that chef was bringing them.

What about you? Favorite stories or pet peeves you want to vent on?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Back to the Floribbean one more time kids. What's passion fruit? What's Dragon fruit? Fruit with tuna?

Typical of foods in this region, this recipe shared in my interview with Chef Michael Bloise of Wish restaurant in South Beach, combines tropical fruits in more familiar dishes.

Both Passion fruit and Dragon fruit have citrus-y flavors which marry well with tuna. Dragon fruit is actually fruit of a cactus and blooms only at night. Red dragon fruit are high in lycopene (like tomatoes) a strong antioxident.

Both are native to South America and tropical locations.

Both have also been discovered by some major juice manufacturers. Soon they'll be no more exotic than a kiwi...

If you can find them in a farmers market or more likely, an Asian market, try this recipe for a culinary trip to South Beach, Miami..heart of the Floribbean...

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Preparing for my conversation with Executive Chef Michael Bloise, of Wish was certainly a mixed blessing. Lovely to remember the clear flavors, textures and straightforward food. Torture to remind myself how far Miami is from Boston.

Wish is the restaurant located in the Goldman Property, "The Hotel" on 801 Collins Avenue, in the heart of South Beach. Just one block from the beach and steps away from everything else that South Beach so generously offers.

Wish has been awarded the 2005 Mobil Travel Guide 4 Stars and AAA Four Diamond award, numerous other accolades in dozens of publications. Much is made of the gorgeous indoor/outdoor dining possibilities, the garden-like al fresco dining, the glowing cocktails. In my opinion, these features , while lovely, take a back seat to the enormously appealing food.

After speaking with Chef Bloise, I'm even more eager to return. With all the praise at his young age, you might expect or even forgive a bit of attitude or ego. None here. It was a most enjoyable visit with a genuine guy who loves good food and is delighted to talk about it. He's so down-to-earth the only time I sensed hesitation was when I mentioned the recognition he's getting, or praised his accomplishments.

Stay tuned for notes from my lovely visit with this terrific young chef.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Just when I was on this whole Floribbean kick, my husband brings home this hunk of delicious cheese called "Red Leicester" and I nearly took a very sharp detour - to England! But lo and behold, the yummy melty cheddar-like cheese shares a common element with Arroz con Pollo a staple in Floribbean cuisine:

Annatto- the seed responsible for the yellow coloring and subtle flavor of both "yellow rice" and Leicester's famous cheese. Both gain their color from this seed.

If you're making Arroz con Pollo and don't have annatto, you can use saffron. Turmeric might also do in a pinch. If you're interested in the best melty, nutty cheese for a Welsh Rarebit, or Mac and Cheese, try some Red Leicester from Central England's idyllic countryside. It's said that the milk from these dairy farms is special (maybe the original "happy cows"?) and produces a rich cheese.

See my Floribbean post for more on the lush tradition of that region and see my colleague Michael's post on Arroz con Pollo if you're in the mood to try your hand a Cuban staple.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Who doesn't want to grill? The smoke, the heat, the savory charred goodness of a perfectly seared steak. Whatever our feelings on the military might be, lots of soldiers risk life and limb each day for us. Four great charities supporting families of US Marines benefit from this unique project.

The good folks at Weber grills have published a cookbook, Command of the Grill, available for $10.00US. Every penny of the proceeds go to four charities supporting Marines and their families.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

But fear not, we can go back to a simpler, more pleasureable experience even a sensual experience with heirloom tomatoes, coming into the markets now. Even regular stores now occasionally carry heirloom tomatoes, so you have no excuse not to experience this wonderful treat.

Remember our discussion of well-traveled tomatoes? Well, the commercially produced, ethylene-gassed, thick-skinned varieties we find in most stores are nothing like the heirloom varieties just arriving now.

Check your farmers' markets, grocers or specialty stores for these seasonal beauties.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Sofrito is to Cuban or Puerto Rican food what the trinity is to Cajun and Creole cuisine. Looking at both Miami and New Orleans from the perspective of the kitchen, it now makes sense. Both places have a rich culinary history drawing on the influences of many cultures. I am still unwrapping the goodies from the Epicure Market and using each product as a gateway to a new cuisine or at least, to new dish.

Today, we visit Cuba...

Posted by Jacqueline Church

The Vindaloo paste we purchased at the Epicure Market in Miami called out to us. As I cracked the cover of my publisher's copy of Madhur Jaffrey's upcoming book, Climbing the Mango Tree, I thought it fitting to have a proper Indian meal.

Still a novice to Indian food, I enjoy starting with one ingredient or one dish and figuring out from there what I can learn. Once a bit of new info is anchored somewhere in the gray matter, it seems a bit easier to link new data up...

Here's what I can share about emerging knowledge...Vindaloo is a spicy curry often made with lamb or pork. It originates in the Southern part of India. Goa and Kerala are both in the Southern part of the continent. Christianity is more common in these regions, hence no prohibitions against consumption of pork as is this case in more Hindu dominated regions. Today Kerala's population is about 20% Christian.

With its long coastline and its tropical climate, it was a treasured stop along various spice traders' routes. From early Phoenicians, through Portugese, Arab and Dutch traders a rich and complex array of spices developed and new world additions increased the variety of components in the cuisine.

One of the easiest ways to enter the world of Indian food (so different from what most of us have tried in mediocre college holes in the wall)is through a good cookbook and/or a good simmer sauce. Maya Kaimal's "Curried Favors" is a beautiful book and a loving tribute to her family of cooks from Kerala. It offers a wonderfully straightforward, yet thorough introduction to many of the culinary traditions, spices, and techniques of the region. She produces commercially available simmer sauces which give neophytes like me an opportunity to make a homemade, authentic Indian dish by simply adding vegetables and meat or seafood to the pan.

Go on - give it a try. A world awaits.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Stopping into a specialty or ethnic grocers is an adventure.

It's like a mini-vacation as you wander around the new products and strange vegetables and fruits.

You might feel like Alice tumbling down the rabbit hole; you might think it impossible. But remember, you just have to practice, and as the Queen said, and you can soon believe six impossible things before breakfast. Or maybe eat them.

Often the smaller ethnic shops will have the owner on premises. I've found these people to be valuable and trusty advisors. You can greatly expand your culinary repertoire with their help. Usually, they are tickled that someone new has ventured in and delighted to share what they know with you.

Porcini mushrooms from the Salumeria that are twice the size and half as expensive as the little bag in the supermarket, filled with broken pieces.

Never tried ramps before? Fiddleheads? Your specialty shop has someone to recommend how to prepare them, they probably source them from a local farmer.

What about a new fish or an artisan cheese? They'll know when it was caught or made, who did it and how to eat it.

Are you still paying $3.00 for a teensy little jar of pine nuts? Your Chinese or Italian grocer will have a nice plump bag at half that price.

Red chili flakes? Asian food stores sell big bags of bright red flakes while grocery store spice aisles will have small, dull, insipid and expensive bottles from who knows where.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Visits with my in-laws always include animated meals and discussions of food. In the summer months when they come to Boston, we also get to enjoy wonderful treats from their garden and other California sources. This time, we got a backpack full of cherry tomatoes from their garden. They *pop* some of the California sun in your mouth. My first trip to their house included a garden tour and the sweetest crunchiest pea I ever tasted, right from Dad's vines.

To be honest, I've never been a huge fan of raisins, using them in oatmeal cookies or in oatmeal, not much else. This visit we also received raisins not grown in the Garden but in California. Forget what you think you know of "California Raisins." These raisins are huge and sweet and have made me a believer. The source is Casa de Fruta, a family owned business since 1900. Immigrants from southern Italy, the brothers started a cannery which was not so successful; then their sister took it over and expanded the business. Today, they offer wonderful dried fruits, jalapeno spiced pistachios, gift baskets and more. The raisins we received are not available through the website as they grow in small quanitities and are sold only at the premises.

The first thing you notice is the size of them, half the size of your thumb! And rather than hard, dried little things (remember the little red boxes from childhood?) these are soft and sweet. Amazing. So happy Clara took over that cannery!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

A Cajun Spice blend is key to Gumbo and other Cajun and Creole dishes. It can be purchased or made at home; I favor making one's own. You can blend various spices, following a guideline of someone whose recipes you like, but trust your own palate.

A combination of the following is good for Gumbo:

• Salt (not iodized, ever, please)
• Black pepper (crushed)
• Garlic powder
• Onion powder
• Nutmeg
• Parsley
• Cayenne
• Chili powder (a blend of chile powders to your taste or some purveyor's)

You can blend your own or begin with a pre-mixed combination such as those by K-Paul, Emeril, or others. I think it's a good exercise to find a recipe from a chef you're fond of; then experiment. Beginning with their recommended proportions, you'll develop confidence in your own palate in no time.

Crushing black pepper is easy with a great pepper mill (I love my Peugot pepper mill!) You can also use a mortar and pestle, or the bottom of a heavy skilled with peppercorns wrapped in waxed paper - a good, cheap alternative. The original Cajuns did not have pepper mills, after all!

Write me here for my favorite recipes using spice blends to make plain old nuts into elegant party nibbles.

Spice blends also make great hostess, housewarming or holiday gifts. You can buy a spice blender or use a coffee grinder for ease, then put your own spice blend in decorative jar with a label. You could include a favorite recipe using the blend or couple the spice blend with other key ingredients. For example, your very own Cajun Spice Blend, along with my Gumbo recipe and Michael Vyskocil's Jambalaya recipe, in a Dutch Oven. What new bride-to-be wouldn't love that as a shower gift?

See Michael Vyskocil's Tribute to New Orleans for more recipes, including Jambalaya.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

It seems a little sacreligious to speak of drinks called "Hurricanes" now, but before Katrina and others, I knew ordering a Hurricane cocktail was a way to say, "I'm here, in New Orleans," even if it did tag me as a tourist.

So, we ordered a Hurricane and some fried oysters and the indulgence began. The next few days would completely change my preconceived notions of this town. It's charm simply envelopes you like a big, warm hug from a favorite old Aunt or Grandma.

We had all the traditional dishes and drinks, nearly all the acclaimed dishes. We wandered around this Quarter and that, of course we had Beignets and chicory coffee (now made by industrious Vietnamese!) The city is one that just absorbs whomever would like to come. Choctaw, African, French, Spanish, Acadian, Creole...

We wandered, ate, drank, photographed and just took it all in. One thing I had to have was a proper Sazerac cocktail. Peychaud bitters, whisky and what could be wrong with the day after that?

Look for my Gumbo recipe, I'll include links to the Sazerac recipe, too. On the eve of the 2006 hurricane season, I urge everyone to find something they can do to help this city. Buy a gift card from a grocery store or clothing store and send it to someone who's lost their home. Send a check to a relief organization you trust. Buy products over the Internet that will support the local economy. The city is just one of the most unique places I've seen in all my travels. In spirit and in action we should do what we can to salute it!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

You may remember my post about French Laundry a bit ago. The second part of the story is about my disappointment and how that turned to a fantastic discovery. Another Napa Valley restaurant that I think is superiour to FL and my discovery of Wild Asparagus. Who knew at this ripe, old age I could still find something I'd never had before?

Yesterday's trip to the favorite grocers, Savenor's on Beacon Hill, yielded asperges sauvages, among other treats. I'll write more soon. The water's on the boil....(for more on that meal: check my post on asperges sauvages.

Back to FL - I would have to say, but for his gorgeous food and his open love for In-N-Out burgers, I'd have to hate him. I cannot stand pretentiousness.

My dinner at French Laundry was fine as far as the food and wine. Thoughtful courses, well executed. This does not a meal make. And when the hype is so over-done by the restaurant itself, and you seat me in a sweltering room so uncomfortable it required several diners making trips to splash cold water on our necks and faces...oh yea, that's what I want to spend $500 bucks for...service was pretty disappointing, too. No one cared that our table of six had 5 newcomers, no one cared that we had significant interest in and knowledge of food and wine, and no one cared too much about being attentive.

Contrast to La Toque. This restaurant, attached to the beautiful and charming Rancho Caymus, excelled on every point. Far exceeded FL in many regards. Not only was the food divine, every person we met was thrilled at our delight with each course. From the server to the sommelier to the chef and other staff, we had not hovering intrusive service, but that authentic pride in the experience they were giving us.

The wine flight was perfectly paired to each course, and even held a few surprises for the two of us who know something about wine.

We left that meal with the enchanted feeling that one has on such nights, so close to heaven you could die in your sleep with no regrets. Sated, satisfied, excited and just so lucky to be in that moment. I will never forget it. Especially since we framed the menu!

For the back story, including synchronized bi-coastal phone assaults, see: French Laundry and Wild Asparagus, Keller doesn't sweat, we do

Posted by Jacqueline Church

With all the great berries coming into season in the markets now, why not try those recommended in the LATimes by Donna Deane? Agua Frescas are a nice centerpiece to a summer afternoon on the balcony or patio.

Basil & lime are great partners in a gimlet. One could make a lime infused simple syrup or simply use lime and basil in the shaker for something more tart. I prefer the latter unless we're adding soda and having afternoon iced cocktails. If that's the case, don't forget your mint and rum for those Mojito fans, save some lime on the side for my Caiparinhas.

Sangria is another diversion from my usual "no fruit in my booze" rule. My first recipe for sangria came from a hearty polish woman who also made lovely chicken livers with sweet vermouth.

Pearl's sangria recipe:

• 1 gallon decent Spanish red
• Sliced oranges, lemons, limes
• ½ c sugar (or to taste)
• 3 oz brandy or cointreau or Gran Marnier
• 6 oz orange juice concentrate
• ½ quart club soda; adding last.

Macerate fruit with brandy and sugar for at least 30 minutes to allow flavors to develop. Mix all ingredients I large pitcher with some ice.

For more on summer cocktails see Of Herbs and Cocktails.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

While waiting for our tomatoes and corn, we can do very nicely in early summer at the opening of farmers' markets. This is the opening week in many markets and things to look for now include:

• breads from local bakeries;
• artisanal olive oils, organic, hand-pressed; many possess character unlike the varieties you find in the mega-marts;
• organic lettuces, herbs and other greens: these are early birds and much more toothsome than those you'll find in markets;

Tonight's salad included: mesclun mix (assorted baby lettuces); red leaf lettuce; chive blossoms and locally produced goat's cheese.

The dressing was made with:

• two cloves of garlic, smashed with sea salt to a paste
• small dab of anchovy paste; teaspoon or so of dijon;
• fresh lemon juice; red basil vinegar
• fresh thyme; sonoran oregano

• whisked together with organic olive oil from a farmers' market vendor

After adjusting taste with a few good grinds of sea salt, pepper, toss in greens, whatever other veggies you want (we had orange bell pepper, shaved celery, cucumber, vineripe tomatoes, shaved carrots).

Top with zest of lemon.

Served with shrimp from the Chinese market across the street(quickly marinated in lemon olive oil, lemon zest, garlic, oregano, lots of fresh ground pepper and some vermouth; then sauteed with a bit more olive oil, some Hawaiian red salt, dash of chile, parseley) and crusty bread from the farmer's market.

No couch coma after a meal like this. Just happy tummies.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Okay, maybe not completely life changing, but simple things like growing something you can eat or give to others can be an unexpected joy.

I was once walking through the community gardens in Boston and stopped to admire a plot a man was tending. He was so pleased I think that someone admired his garden he offered me some of his fresh thyme - beautiful big bunch. I was delighted! The offer from his garden was a gift far precious than the $5.00 I would have paid in the store it was another example of a connection made through food.

And simple pleasures like fresh thyme, one of my favorites. I have found even my "urban garden" (AKA my fire escape) can provide wonderful herbs all summer long. I remember summer days when my mom came home from work, noting the time that passed between her coming through the front door, to the time she headed out the back door to the garden. The shorter the time; the worse the day was. Her garden was a reliable friend that never failed to help her unwind.

Farmers' markets are opening up and I can barely contain my excitement. See, Well-traveled tomatoes?

• Try tarragon in your mayonnaise;
• slip some sage leaves under the skin of the next chicken you roast;
• A few springs of lavender is beautiful to scent tuck into the linen closet, wrap in a bow on a gift, place in small bottle on the bathroom shelf.
• Chives are easy to grow and lovely to add to salad dressings or eggs.
• Basil now comes in so many varieties. Thai basil is one I hope to try this year. Basil in the stores is expensive and too often, what you find has already blossomed which makes it more bitter.
• Rosemary is hardy and a great addition to roasts, tomato dishes. Tuck some into a napkin at dinner for a fragrant surprise.
• Dill is beautiful to look at and brightens up everything from egg salad to chicken soup, or avgolemono.

You'll be surprised what a difference fresh herbs can make in your food and how growing them can change your day.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

While kumquats look like miniature citrus fruit, they are not prized for the same qualities. And please: don't try to peel them.

Unfamiliar with kumquats myself, we once ordered some from a specialty fruit mail-order house. Something went awry with the order and we ended up with the first lost order and the second replacement order, arriving simultaneously.

No matter how much one likes them, there are only so many kumquats one can consume. They are about the size of a large olive, with almost no pulp. We tried eating them whole, unadorned, enh. We tried buzzing them into a new exotic cocktail, enh.

The problem with our attempts, and my friend's attempt, to enjoy these unfamiliar fruits, is that while the look like citrus, they really are not.

That means they don't have a juicy center as we expect from other citrus. The zing is in the zest.

Too late for me, but perhaps not for you, comes Amanda Hesser's piece in the New York Times. You must read it, if only for the titillating description of old world cultivation methods (involving 10th century damsels and "disgraceful sex"), ahem.

I was reminded of this exotic fruit while viewing a recent episode of Iron Chef America. I am encouraged again and will try to find them, cook with them, and share results.

Buddha's Hands are the second freaky fruit of note. While this is truly a member of the citrus family, unlike kumquats, these are an ingredient most of us would be hard pressed to use. In fact, they are most often used in decorative or ornamental ways, including in offerings at altars.

The fruit has many finger-like segments, resembling a multi-fingered hand. With almost no pulp or juice, its primary value is its fragrance and having little bitter pith, it is sometimes for its zest.

I've even heard of vodkas flavored with it. Now that may be worth the detour.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Long before I set foot on Italian soil, I got my first, authentic taste of sausages and cheeses from my first "Italian deli". College is about "firsts" after all, isn't it? I guess now we would call Toscani's a "Salumeria." Back then, it was a deli. Just like coffee was large or small. Not grande or vente, and cost 50 cents not 3 bucks, and came in that familiar blue cup with the Greek key band...but, I digress.

Back to my beloved Salumeria and salami! Read about Culatello or Prosciuto with Pedigree. I got my first taste of fresh, homemade mozzarella there. I learned about house-made and imported sausages. The huge variety of cheeses available were a revelation to me. As any good college student, I was eager to share what I had learned. "Mom, what do you think you're buying?! Throw away that stuff in the green can. I've got the real thing!"

Reading Dry-Cured Sausages: Kissed by Air, Never by Fire I recalled Ernie's shop and the grounding it gave me in good Italian food. My friends said the shop was like the places their fathers described when talking about the old neighborhood (the Bronx.) Their fathers' fathers had described this or that shop in the Bronx as being just like the ones back home. This was all the authority I needed.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Here's a little insight into my food-obsessed family...and I use that phrase in the most loving way. Home in Maryland for my niece's graduation from St. Mary's College @20, magna cum laude, ODK, and Nitze Scholars' Distinction. (Any readers in hiring mode are urged to drop me a line...)

The trip planning begins with the pre-trip meal with C & J (our "Boston family" tradition) then the speculation begins: what will Mom make? What will John (father of the grad and chef) make? Will blue crabs be in season? Will you get soft shells? And so on...

First night's dinner with Mom did not disappoint: white rice, miso soup (two cornerstones of most Japanese meals); Kyuri oshinko (pickled cucumbers done in similar fashion to the hakusai but with vinegar); a seaweed type salad with bits of abura-age (fried tofu); oden - kind of light broth stew filled with large chunks of daikon, carrot, ika (squid.) I ate up all her cucumbers, finished the soup and graciously left just a bit of rice and oden for her.

Graduation was gorgeous, who knew Ted Koppel was so funny? Tears, hugs, cheers, and photos. It was a morning to ponder important questions: "What is the importance of time?" "What should these young grads take away with them from this college education? And, "What time will the food be ready?"

My brother and I decided to stop for a bite on the way home, just in case there was too long a wait for our rumbling tummies. Back at the house, there was of course, a huge platter of cold cuts for the pre-BBQ preparations. Chafing dishes set up, kegs tapped, and dance floor built under the tent pitched yesterday. Then, at last the food! And the music. And the margaritas. And the dancing. And the stories by the firepit.

The menu:

• Lumpia - traditional Filipino appetizer, like a spring roll or skinny egg roll. These crispy savory treats are a big hit. I found a recipe online lumpia
• Bulgogi - Korean recipe - garlic, soy, sugar combine for a fantastic marinade permeating skirt steak or flank. It could also be used with pork to good effect.
• Chicken - a Hawaiian style recipe with soy, ginger, brown sugar?
• Hot dogs, hamburgers, pasta salad with balsamic dressing, hummus, mozzarella, roasted red peppers, kalamata olives.
• And the cake, oh my...a thing of beauty, delicious and evil it called to us all last night, all today "eat me, eat me...you know you want more...."

Other honorable mentions:

• The best right hand man award goes to RJ (from Brockton, wicked!)
• The best music award to Lionize - Irie mon!
• The balloons were carried home by a chivalrous young guy who taught me a thing or two about helium, convertibles and generosity.
• Scott (new beau, I think) did an excellent job on house renovations and knows something about skating, too? Who cares, he's good to my niece, he's okay by me. If not, he's dead to me!

Now, where did Mom put those leftovers?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

"Gourmet" is sometimes viewed as an off-putting or elitist term. I have a very short fuse when it comes to anything that hints at exclusion. I've always associated the term gourmet with exposure to new things. Learning how different cultures or chefs approach similar foods; understanding the origins of dishes and traditions surrounding them. It's not about exclusivity, but about connection and appreciation of a shared meal.

This is why topics here will often cover unfussy dishes or items that help us appreciate the simple pleasure to be had in something like a perfect lemon. It's certainly interesting and commendable if someone applies a new technique or process to something familiar (sous vide anyone?) but these advances do nothing to diminish the value of the original item itself.

Picnic in Kerkyra

I cannot look at an olive tree without remembering this magical day. Longer ago now than I'd like to admit, I was once a lawyer. In my second year, I scored an assignment in Frankfurt for my first co-op. I had never been to Europe before, and had that fresh confidence borne of one whole year of law school. I decided to negotiate a more expensive ticket which would allow me to begin my trip in Greece, travel north through Italy, and leave three months later from Frankfurt. I could barely believe my luck when they agreed.

Arriving in Kerkyra, I wind up with two young Brits renting Vespas and covering the island. As I recall, the required "lessons" amounted to little more than attempted groping. Nothing we couldn't handle. Late in the afternoon, we find ourselves hungry in an sun-drenched, lazy little village; a place that had nothing resembling a restaurant. How sad that these places are increasingly hard to find.

Finding a small shop (really a room in the front of someone's house that appeared to be open for some sort of commerce) we wandered in. Who knows how our ancient shopkeeper understood travel-guide-Greek - but we ended up with bread they baked, cheese they made (imagine softer, mellower feta) and olives they probably brined and grew. I think maybe there was a tomato or some fruit thrown in as well.

We scootered along until we found a small grove of olive trees and had the most heavenly meal. Sun breaking through the branches above us, now and then. A gentle breeze, an ocean view, and the sort of simple food that makes one appreciate what these things are meant to taste like.

Pasolivo's Meyer lemon and Tuscan varietal olive oil Meyer Lemon Olive Oil is one of those discoveries that takes you back to the simple pleasures of good food. Read all about it and enjoy.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Latest Saveur (May) highlights Crack seed I told you about recently. (See my article on Gourmet Chips and salty snacks.) The article describe how a Honolulu hotspot shows off the versatility of this amped up Hawaiian snack.

Your humble gourmet food writer issues a mea culpa here. I did not know the crack seed center actually sells the spice combos for three of their blends! And Honolulu's Side Street Inn rims a cocktail glass with it. Brilliant!

It's a great article that does an excellent job in a few words of covering the melange of cultures and influences in typical Hawaiian fare. My only disappointment is the omission of Spam. While the Side Street in may use linguica, and Portugese certainly did contribute to the culinary palate of Hawaii, I would lay money on the notion that more kitchens in Hawaii see Spam fried rice than linguica fried rice.

In my humble opinion, no discussion of Hawaiian food traditions should neglect mention of this culinary oddity. Maybe I'll have to devote an article to the topic...but that might strain the good nature of my editor.

Offered for your consideration: in Korea, Spam is gift boxed at holidays for corporate and other gift-giving.

Anyone care to weigh in on this?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Dogwood blossoms were her favorite. In Japanese: "o-mizuhana". Misao Kasahara was an amazing woman. She lived to 94 and was a woman with her own mind. She raised three girls and a boy cousin through the war and many hardships.

She was a forward thinker in a country that still barely values that, especially in women. In the 1920's she became a "mo-gu" (shortened from "modern girl") and adopted Western style of dress, hair, and wild talk of equality between the sexes. When I returned to Japan in the 1990's seventy years later they were still advertising jobs with two salaries: one for men, one for women.

She gave me my first camera when I was about eleven. It was a treasured gift that made me feel special and opened up a whole new world to me. I've had several cameras since then, shot photos all over the world, even sold photography, all because she trusted a little girl with such a grown up gift.

One of the things I remember her sharing was a war-time regret. There were long stretches of time during the war when all they had to eat was sweet potatoes. Later I met the boy she'd felt so sorry about having fed only sweet potatoes. Now in his 50's, I asked if he had an aversion to them. His reply, "No, I love them, why do you ask?" I'm sure she had a lot to do with why he was unaware of their hardship. She always had a way not so much of enduring - you never saw her burdened - but of just getting on with it.

While my family is full of good cooks, each of us has a specialty or two. I remember Grandma making tempura and hakusai (pickled Nappa cabbage). She was so tiny, she had to stand on a stepstool to get above the nappa high enough to press it! No matter how closely we watched her, and tried to follow her instructions, ours never came out as good as hers.

I always thought it had something to do with the decades of love and strength somehow coming through her hands. Remember Like Water for Chocolate? When the emotions of the daughter Tita, flowed through her food to those eating it?

Toward the end of her life, family gatherings and holidays took on more importance and poignancy. We each dealt with the impending loss in our own ways. One of our last Thanksgivings with her we waited so long to decide to do the holiday together. When Mom finally went to pick up the turkey, the only ones left were the size of small children. The photo of that meal still makes me laugh. Grandma (80 lbs soaking wet) looks like she's half the size of the turkey!

I once asked her what her wish for her grandchildren was. She wanted us each to have the freedom to study and pursue whatever interested us. She was a diligent writer and wrote every day of her life. She traveled all over the world and was curious about most everything. She was completely unimpressed when I was making a fat salary at a less than thrilling job. I think she would be really happy for me now.

Misao's Hakusai

Americans would probably liken this to a slaw or salad more than a pickle, it's not cooked in brine, simply "pickles" in salted water. It's a great side to any meal and the basic recipe can be modified to taste. Some cooks add bonito (dried shaved fish) or a splash of fish sauce, soy sauce, or more or less chili flake. If you add garlic and chili you'll have something more like Kim chi.

1. Nappa cabbage is best in winter. Rinse and chop into about in inch pieces.
2. In a large non-reactive bowl such as glass. Layer nappa in bowl, salting liberally as you go.
3. Dissolve 1 tsp salt in about 1-1 ½ C of water. Add red chili flakes.
4. Pour over top of salted cabbage.
5. Place a plate or dish on top of cabbage and weigh down with 3-5 lbs of weight. (I use a big glass bowl and place my cast iron Dutch oven on top, with a big pitcher of water sitting in the pot.)
6. This should sit at least overnight, up to 3 days.
7. Check to see that water is being released from the Nappa. If not, you may not have salted it enough.

After pressing, I drain from the salty water and add a little Yuzu vinegar and serve with a splash of soy.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Keeping with the snack theme and my salty preferences...I want to share some news about pickles. But first, a word about the magic that happens around food. Food is what brings us here isn't it?

We had dinner with my friends Randal & Jim last night, a grand feast. We laughed and caught up and the discussion ranged from their impending 20 year anniversary (Congratulations!) to food, to food at Randal's mother's house (including chow chow, which we'll get to in a minute), food at my mother's house (in which my husband got the larger crab cake than her first born, the mother of her only grandchildren, or her only son).

As inevitably happens, food is linked to our funniest, or most poignant stories and memories. Families who tested our new friends with food, or showed acceptance and love through food. Even food that brings up memories of difficult things is food we enjoy today.(Can you even imagine meeting the plantation owners who gave their name to your enslaved forbears?)

So, share a meal with friends too long out of touch. It's a gift you can all share with each other. It's better than all the gold in the world.

Now, back to pickles. My husband was asking about the Southern food Randal's mother prepared. Being from California, it's all new to him. One of the things served was her homemade chow chow pickle. It's a decidedly Southern thing, usually containing green tomato, cabbage, sometimes peppers, and mustard. I think of it as yellow, but I'm unsure it always is. It's served like a chutney or relish. You might have a bit of it on your plate to dab your meat, your biscuit, or whatever you like in. I'm hoping to score one of the jars from Randal's next trip home. I tried not to be too obvious, but maybe clapping at the suggestion was a little over the top?

Moving from the familiar treasures to the new discovery. Welcome to my frig Moon Brine Pickles! This is an artisanal product borne of love. Produced by a former third grade teacher from the lower East Side you have to wonder if he was channeling a pickle man of yesteryear. You guessed it, they ain't cheap. These pickles have moved uptown from the shtetl baby, let me tell you. But for a treat, they are worth it. They come in two flavors, pretty hot and super dill. Perfect balance of dill, garlic, mustard, crunch...

What are your favorites?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I know I promised Spring treats like Fiddleheads, but sometimes, life throws you a curve ball. Or a 96 mile an hour split-finger pitch that still looks fast on slow-mo. The fiddleheads didn't look great, it's early for soft-shells and then there's the start of the Baseball season. Spring is all about anticipation. Did you know more grills are sold in the New England area than anywhere else in the US?

After seeing a Foodnetwork.com show on hot dogs, cleverly timed to coincide with the start of the baseball season, we got to thinking about brats. And, on the way back from watching the Marathon, we passed by a local watering hole announcing a $5 brat and beer special. A trip to our favorite gourmet grocer was clearly in order. By the way, Alton Brown is right, make friends with your butcher - You will not be sorry!

Special cuts, seasonal items, advice on how to cook them...all there for the asking. Our guys at Savenor's have house-made weisswurst, bratwurst, and much more. Weisswurst is a lighter sausage whose primary component is veal. Some pork and light spicing is added. It's not garlicky or smoked as other sausages are. Light and delicious, just savory enough. A perfect Spring treat.

Fire up (or plug in) the grill and try this:

Gently prick weisswurst. Braise them in a good beer, one chopped onion, and one granny smith apple. Let wurst (or brats)simmer for 30 minutes or an hour. Then grill and enjoy with some Trackleman's or whole grain mustard. Enjoy with some grilled veggies, cornichons, crusty bread, and of course, a beer.

If weisswurst is not gourmet enough for you how about these for your ballpark nosh? How about ahi tuna , olive and orange zest sandwich (AT&T Park), Cuban Panini (Miller Park), Chocolate covered cheesecake (Great American Ball park), Crabcakes (Camden yards), Clam chowder at Fenway?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

French Laundry

Perusing eGullet.org's active discussion boards, I was interested to see the huge volume of traffic generated by someone's post about their recent experience at the famous Thomas Keller restaurant, French Laundry. As a yet-to-be-upgraded member, I am not entitled to enter the discussion there, so let me offer some thoughts and one diner's (actually 6 diners') experience at this acclaimed establishment here. Quite possibly, this will mean that reservations at any future TK restaurants will require use of a pseudonym, but it's a small inconvenience really, when I see the almost unanimous reverence for the place. Allow me to offer another view.

Planning to make Patton proud

Planning a trip to the left coast always entails advance planning the likes of which are seldom seen outside of war maneuvers. There are friends, there are family, there are new restaurants, good food, vineyards, there's so much to fit in! This particular trip (2003) offered the possibility to dine at French Laundry with one of my best friends, her partner, a friend of hers and her husband, and, as I came to learn: much strategizing. The five Californians informed me, this was not your usual experience of picking up a phone and simply making a reservation. Oh no. This required beaming from PDAs, synchronizing calendars, and (due to my habitual failure to guess the proper direction of the bi-coastal time differential,) synchronization of watches. Not so subtle reminders flung in my direction sounding much like those offered when teaching a first grader how to tell time. I'll admit it. Sadly, this not far off the mark.

Well, I assumed the foodies I loved were simply pumping up my expectation and reverence for my first visit to this Mecca for gourmands. Oh no. As the weeks prior to the trip passed, reminders and calendar checks flew cross country. Who would make the first call at the very moment of the restaurant's opening? And, were we sure, let's check again, on the exact number of weeks prior to our desired night of dining we would orchestrate the calling? You see, the absolute earliest one could request the privilege of a table, was something on the order of 3 months (was it six?) I cannot recall the actual number, but I was sure it was an absurd exaggeration. Not so.

Due to the highly coordinated and finely synchronized calls, we were able to secure a table for six in the very same weekend months ahead, that we were destined to be in range of the vaunted temple of cuisine. If, all six of us could be there at 5:30, the only option available the whole period of time we'd be there. If memory serves, this required everyone else to leave work (in SF) early enough to avoid rush hour traffic and make it to the restaurant by 5:30.

Through machinations and coordination that would have made Patton proud, we all managed to arrive, before the doors opened. Thrilled to have pulled this off, on this early warm June evening, we could only imagine what thrills awaited us. (Stay tuned.)

Next chapter: Asperges Sauvages, French Laundry Disappoints, La Toque Excels

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Well along came a spider...as in the web-crawling programs that "read" articles and "associate" relevant ads with them..

Maybe it was the "Proof God Loves Us" title of my gelato article? Maybe it was the "...Created Equal" in my Oregano title? Maybe it was the entry about Edna Lewis' passing...but my Gourmet Food page keeps getting tagged with ads for Bipolar treatment options, depression and numerous other mental health related goods and services...

Hang in there dear readers, I'm sure we will (and by that I mean I will) get the hang of this meta-tag and search engine optimization thing soon enough.

For now, let me just say hang in there...the real post this week will be all joyful and Spring-y...maybe I'll get tagged with manic ads.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

For Herb Rub

• Shallots, butter, olive oil, mustard (I used a combination of whole grain and a shallot champagne Dijon style mustard from Napa.)
• Fresh thyme, fresh sage, parsley. Grated orange zest.
• Herb spice mixture (fennel seed, coriander, white pepper, fleur de sel, rosemary)

Wash & pat dry roast. Season with fleur de sel and crushed white pepper.

Massage herb rub all over roast. Wrap with plastic or waxed paper, return to fridge for 2-4 hours.

Roast at 375 for about 20 minutes per pound. Note: do not overcook. Approximate times.

Be sure to use good meat thermometer and cook to internal temperature of 145 degrees, no more! Temp will rise during resting at least five degrees.

Baste with drippings if any, being sure to baste potatoes and onions, too. My pork actually produced so little pan drippings, I used some demiglace and wine to make a bit of basting liquid for the potatoes mostly.

Remove, tent with foil and allow resting time of 5-10 minutes. Finish pan sauce while resting, and sauté asparagus.

For salad

Crisp romaine, sliced apples, shaved fresh fennel bulb. Mandarin orange sections (navel, or blood orange sections would be good too, as would pomegranate seeds.)

Small garlic clove, champagne mustard, s&p. Yuzu vinegar (cider would work well too)

Whisk in light oil, canola, grapeseed oil with a bit of good fruity olive oil. You want a balance of tart, sweet, peppery and citrusy flavors here.

For potatoes

Wash dry quarter Yukon golds. Strew with thyme S&P around roast in roasting pan. The potatoes will probably take more time than the pork to fully roast, so even it out by starting them ahead or by cutting them in smaller segments.

Add onions (red pearl onions, or cippolini would be nice)

Baste with pan juices.

Spring Vegetable Saute

Saute of asparagus, morels, butter, shallot. I added a bit of mushroom stock (reserved and frozen from my last use of dried porcinis. You could easily use a bit of good chicken broth.) A sprinkle of Wondra Sauce and Gravy flour.

Pan Sauce

Degrease if necessary - wasn't with my Lobel's Kurobuta. Deglaze pan with a bit of calvados, Madeira. Demi-glace or stock. Season, reduce. Add a bright note at end using a touch of cider vinegar and/or fresh parsley, more zest.

Wine - Good Oregon pinot noir. (Thanks Sujata!)

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Help is on the way. No hand-wringing over declining cooking skills. Light a candle, don't curse the dark. Ideas for creating connections through sharing kitchen skills.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Coming this week, The Leather District Gourmet's tips on how to stem the tide of kitchent incompetence. Check back here for thoughts on building connections through food, over dinner, at the kitchen counter or in a classroom.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Last week I had an unexpected surprise when a fellow writer visited Boston. What a wonderful opportunity to see my city through fresh eyes and meet a kindred spirit.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Okay, so math has never been my strong suit, but I guess the mention in WaPo, NYT and others indicating web traffic slowing to a crawl everywhere should have been a tip off.

I have been fretting, dear readers, about getting you my note about my latest post. Your LDG blogger has been working on getting you updates on my posts. Well, imagine, trying to deliver a pizza (pizca, D?) in during rush hour - my little teensy note is wa-a-a-y behind/lost in all the bracketologists' posts...betting...viewing...

At least March Madness is delivering some crazy nail biters, treys in the last seconds? Double OTs, are you kidding me. BAY-BY?

Posted by Jacqueline Church

From the Seri people of the Sonoran desert to you - the most outstanding Oregano you've ever tasted. Along with some interesting facts on its medicinal and culinary history.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

I have incorporated this name into my writing (a nom de plume is what now, nom de blog?) in the hopes of introducing more people to the unique place "the LD" is. In these days of rampant homogenization, it's truly something to be treasured when a neighborhood can maintain an identity independent of the cookie cutter "improvements" eradicating the remaing few special urban places.

Rich in history and alive with anticipation, Boston's historic Leather District is comprised of approximately 16 square blocks between the financial district, 93 South, South Station/Ft. Point Channel and Chinatown.

The lofts originally were leather manufacturing facilities and many of the residences maintain rough hewn wooden floors with hand hammered nails, pressed tin ceilings and large open spaces.

Home to restaurants, clubs, cafes and businesses it also supports a growing number of loft residences. Like Greenwich Village or SoHo, the neighborhood maintains a funky urban grittiness, combined with a growing cosmopolitan feel.

My mission is to bring gourmet food, or at least gourmet food writing to the LD.

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Maya Kaimal's Gourmet Indian Simmer Sauce (now marketed by William Sonoma, Whole Foods, and many other sources as well as online) was the star of our show - Tamarind Coconut Curry over jasmine rice. Supporting cast included Mulligatawny soup, Shahi Aloo Ghobi (spicy cauliflower), Naan and my beloved Pappadams.

If you have not tried Maya Kaimal's simmer sauces (www.mayakaimal.com) you must. All the luscious complexity of homemade recipes in a simple simmer sauce. If you're like me and love to read cookbooks, her Curried Favors is gorgeously photographed and lovingly told. It is a cookbook, but it reads like a treasured family bible.

Having the benefit of dear friendship with Maya's sister-in-law, I had the absolute pleasure of meeting her parents and learning of her work with her father as they carefully converted "about this much" mustard seeds into teaspoons and such. Her simmer sauces were gifted to me before they hit stores here and we carefully chose special moments to try the first one, then the next. Fortunately for all of us they are available widely now. See the website for a store near you or online options.

To Oscar! To Maya!

Posted by Jacqueline Church

Edna Lewis has left this world but not without doing best that any of us might aspire to do - she offered a superlative example of how to live. Plain-, yet soft-spoken, entitled to be bitter but evincing none. Living fully and deeply loving life. Displaying open delight in her relationship to food and her relationship with her friend Scott Lewis - the so-called the Odd Couple of Southern Cooking, he being white and several years her junior. They shared a love of good, mostly Southern food and the talent to impart it so personally that to hear them, even if only on TV one could imagine you were perched at the kitchen counter.

As is often the case with women of her generation who achieved something that warranted public attention if not recognition, she was a woman of firsts. Born a grand-daughter of slaves and raised close to the land, she nonetheless rose to become a chef and an author of cookbooks when being either female or black would earn you that recognition as a first. She was both and carried it with typical Southern grace. Next time you fry up some chicken, say thanks and blow a kiss to Edna. I know I will.