The Ramlila at Dussera

Posted by Harsh Nevatia Oct 21, 2007

In the days preceding Dussera takes place the Ramlila, which is the most ancient and most popular form of entertainment, not only for Hindus but also for all of India. The story of Rama is enacted in every city and village, usually in the open.

Traditionally the Ramlila has three formats. The “jhanki” or tableaux format has elaborate sets of certain key events, which are enacted on the sets. The dialogue format is based on fiery or emotional dialogues and monologues. The operatic format is set to music and verse and the lines are sung rather than said.

One of the most famous Ramlilas has been enacted in Ramnagar for almost two centuries without a break. Ramnagar is just fifteen kilometres from Varanasi (also known as Benaras or Kashi) and was started by the then Maharaja of Kashi. It lasts for 31 days (as compared to the more common 10 day format) and is seen by over 100,000 people each year. The entire village is the setting and different parts of the village have permanent structures representing different locations in the narrative. For example one part would be Ayodhya, the birthplace of Rama, and another would be Ashok Vatika, where Sita was held captive by Ravana. The entire audience move with the cast and crew from one locale to the next. Generation after generation of the same family perform the same function in the Ramlila. One family has been in charge of the dialogues whereas another of the costumes and so on. The spectators often join in as when the citizens of Ayodhya are bent upon following their prince to exile.

Seeing the Ramlila in open rural surroundings is an experience of a lifetime that cannot be replicated in a theatre even with the best of technology.