Chef Pilar Cabrera Leaves Toronto with a True Taste of Mexico

Posted by Mary Luz Mejia Sep 30, 2009

When former Toronto litigator and now B&B owner (of Casa Machaya in Oaxaca) Alvin Starkman contacted me months ago about helping him bring a bit of Oaxaca to Toronto, I never thought people here would heed the siren call of Oaxacan food- of Chef Pilar Cabrera's food to be exact. And it's not because Oaxacan food is less than fabulous- it's considered some of the best in country. My concern was that I'd A- overbooked her at 6 restaurants and 1 cooking school here in the city and that B- people here can be funny about Mexican food (sorry folks, but this ain't Chicago).

When I approached some friends and family about coming out- I heard more than once "What, pay $50 for Mexican food? No thanks!" That floored me- so I asked, "why not?" The response varied from "I've had Mexican food. Tacos and fajitas aren't new to me." Well, tacos maybe Mexican (soft shell, corn masa only), but fajitas amigos, falls squarely in the Tex-Mex cuisine camp and is far, far from the sophisticated food Pilar is known for making.

She regaled diners at Frida with a mole negro- the most complex of the bunch (it takes 30 ingredients, a deft hand and lots of practice to get it just right) while Chef Jose Hadad did the same with his lamb tamales. At FRANK restaurant, it was the Ontario corn soup with butternut squash prepared Oaxacan style that took our collective breath away and the mole coloradito that she made here at my home was simply outstanding. Oh and let's not forget that coffee flan at The Chefs' House- silken magic.

By my estimates, 500 plus people enjoyed Pilar's cooking here in Toronto- some coming from as far away as Hamilton to dine on her artisinal fare. I'd say that's several hundred new "converts" to what Mexican food should be- even here in Toronto. We'll miss you Chef Pilar- but we know you'll be back to share new dishes and flavours with us again. Hasta pronto!