Charcuterie- Still all the Rage
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Posted by Mary Luz Mejia Mar 22, 2009 |
Toronto cured-meat aficionado Mario Stojanac writes, "Charcuterie has become an increasingly popular feature on many a restaurant menu over the past couple of years, so it was inevitable that we would finally get an establishment devoted completely to the art of all things cured, smoked or preserved. In
The word ‘charcuterie’ is derived from the French words for flesh (chair) and cooked (cuit), and is art of preparing primarily meat products such as hams, sausages, terrines and pâtés. Chef Grant van Gameren’s charcuterie plate is the jewel in this eatery’s crown around which the concise remainder of the menu jostles for attention.
Van Gameren makes much of his charcuterie in house, and on one early spring eve, we were treated to meltingly tender pancetta, silky smooth foie gras, rabbit terrine and a pork liver sausage amongst another half dozen items, the most interesting of which was a horse bresaola (the lone item not made in house). The charcuterie plate was also adorned with home made pickles and preserves, including quince, ground macadamia nuts with passion fruit and a truffled honey (served with apples).
Once we had dispatched with the charcuterie plate, the table compelled to try the horse tartar, which was soft and rich but not too unlike beef. With society’s penchant for naming and petting horses, our server Catherine was quick to point out that the horsemeat was specifically ranched for this purpose in Quebec – I guess in a (ultimately successful) bid to encourage us to try it – and we’re glad we did. But boy is that dish rich- four of us split one serving and that was plenty for me!
Also on the menu was a chorizo and octopus salad – the vinaigrette’s citrusy notes playing perfectly off the smoky fattiness of the sausage. The Black Hoof may a little boho and it's the hip hangout for locals and chefs on their night off, but it is inviting, comfortable and unpretentious. They don’t take reservations, so early birds (before 7 p.m.) will avoid the long wait (up to 1 hour 45 minutes the night I was there but I gratefully missed that)…but it is well worth it and is the perfect place for a casual evening where plate sharing is definitely encouraged. And don't forget to order a glass of the Walnut Brown Sherry from Spain- it's absolutely wonderful!
The Black Hoof,
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