Theo Randall at Intercontinental

Posted by Anthea Gerrie Dec 5, 2006

Theo Randall has his work cut out trying to make his name at London's Intercontinental Hotel -

even though his name was practically unknown when he was head chef at the legendary River Cafe. There's still a stigma about hotel dining, even though Gordon Ramsay, Nico Ladenis and Bruno Loubet cracked it at the Berkeley, Grosvenor House and Inn on the Park respectively.

But all three had already made their reps in their own restaurants.....while Theo was a partner in the River Cafe, Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray enjoyed all the credit for the dishes created there. However, who would have thought a works canteen in Hammersmith could achieve cult status followed by worldwide fame? That's how River Cafe started life, catering for the staff of Ruth's husband, uber-architect Lord Richard Rogers. And you wonder what would have happened if they had suddenly lost their lease, as so nearly happened a few weeks ago, when Lord Rogers's former partner announced his desire to sell the entire complex. He brought a £10m court action to enforce that right - and disaster has only just been averted with an out of court settlement.

They survived the loss of River Cafe's then sous-chef Jamie Oliver years ago. Now it remains to be seen whether Hammersmith diners notice the absence of Theo at the hob.