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Jan 11, 2007

Knives out for Gordon Ramsay in NY

It's a good thing he has a tough hide and a philosophical nature, because British chef Gordon Ramsay is staring his own kitchen nightmare in the face. New York City's food critics have

roundly criticised his latest effort, Gordon Ramsay at the London, the products of whose kitchen Gael Greene writes in New York Magazine "suggest someone hasn't a clue. We are shocked by a leathery lobster raviloi and an unseemly marriage of langoustine and maple-infused chicken," she pouts, while Alan Richman of Bloomberg News really dug his knife in with the comment: "I was instantly reminded of the French international cuisine that British chefs turn out whenever theyply their trade aboard cruise ships."

Ramsay is probably throwing knives himself at the moment, said in the London evening papers

to be "furious" after reading the reviews. But he should take heart that even la Green melted

during a visit that couldn't have been all that disastrous: "The chef's signature feint, a luscious smoky front with white beans, had us sighing," she breathes. What the hell's a feint, anyway?

Those with the money to fund their curiosity can book a table at Gordon Ramsay at the London

on 212.468.8888.