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May 16, 2006

Style in Pinot Noir

The differences are substantial, but is it really the same grape? In our previous article we noted that Pinot Noir is probably the world's most mutable grape.

So it should not surprise us to learn that when this grape adapts to a specific terroir it takes on the characteristics of that terroir. Nowhere is this more clearly seen than in Burgundy. We've found no climate anywhere in the world that closely mimics the characteristics of Pinot Noir grown in Burgundy.

That said, there are clear differences in style between French and New World examples. The French, partly due to climatic issues, favor lower alcohol, leanness, elegance and complexity. Most New World producers seem to prefer to capitalize on the rich fruit flavors that the geography of their vineyards promotes.

In our

> California Wine article of July 30, 2005 we noted that red Burgundies cost roughly twice as much as comparably rated domestic Pinot Noirs. Are they really that much better? Find out by reading our

> current reviews

of three highly rated Burgundies and four New World examples.