How Important are Appellations?

Posted by Alan Boehmer Feb 3, 2007

Appellations are legally defined geographic regions where wine grapes are grown. There are, at last count, 301 of them in North America. There are broad ones, such as Columbia Valley; and narrow ones like Columbia River Gorge. Broader appellations are used mostly for wines made from grapes grown in several smaller regions within the broader appellation. Some examples: Ontario, New Mexico, even America (that's the broadest one in North America, and it ensures that the wine is made from grapes grown in America).

Appellations are granted in the U.S. by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms after a lengthy and costly review. Those promoting the creation of a new appellation must offer evidence of the uniqueness of the region and its distinction from neighboring regions. At this time a petition to divide the Paso Robles appellation is under consideration. The new appellation would be Paso Robles-Westside, which is geographically distinct from the rest of the region, being quite hilly and containing limestone soils.

The narrower the appellation, the more likely a wine will show regional or even vineyard characteristics. Cabernet Sauvignons from Napa Valley will have a different flavor profile than those from Washington State or even other regions in California. There are differences even within the larger Napa Valley appellation. Cabernets from Napa Valley-Oakville are said to be characteristically rich and dense, with firm tannins and often with notes of mint and herbs, while those of nearby Stags Leap District have a sense of elegance and grace that sets them apart from other Cabernets.

Wines with narrow appellations will usually be more expensive and of higher quality than those from broader appellations. But there are some heartening exceptions. At times of oversupply, growers will sell off excess fruit to wineries that bottle inexpensive wines under a second label (to avoid sullying the reputation of their principal label). Sometimes these inexpensive "seconds' will carry a narrow appellation that could suggest a higher quality. A current example is a Zinfandel bottled by Trader Joe's grocery company in California under the label Old Moon. It sells for $4.99 and carries a Lodi appellation. "Old Vine Zin is Lodi's specialty, with the same families tending vines over 120 years old for five generations," according to Dave Chandler, writing for Appellation America. Lodi Zinfandels are known for their rich, deep fruitiness and easy drinking softness.