Great Britain Finds Its Stride

Posted by Alan Boehmer Dec 31, 2007

Not so many years ago few outside the U.K. were even aware that England is a wine producing country. The history of English viticulture in many ways parallels that of New York state. That is, the early lack of success with vinifera (French and German varietals) led to attempts to move to French and German hybrids. Most notably, England's most widely planted varietals have been Seyval Blanc and Müller-Thurgau — grape varietals that do not ordinarily produce superior wines elsewhere, although an exception might be made in the case of ice wine.

Seyval Blanc still occupies the largest acreage under vine in Britain, followed closely by the German hybrid Reichensteiner. These grapes often form the base for proprietary named wines. More recent introductions such as Ortega (a white grape producing both dry and sweet wines) and Bacchus. These varietals are now making their way to British Columbia.

The big news in British wine, however, is not so much the steady rise in quality over the past years, but the success of classic Champagne grape varietals: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier. While these varietals are not making noteworthy still wine, they have led to sparkling wines that have been compared favorably to French Champagne costing twice the price.

English sparkling wine is not inexpensive. The highest rated at this point is the vintage Chapel Down Pinot Reserve Sparkling; £24.99. The 2008 Wine Report lists this wine as the greatest currently offered British wine, still or sparkling. Also worth noting is the splendid Blanc de Noirs Pinot Meunier 2003, priced at £24.95. Both wines are the recipients of numerous gold and silver medals.