Ferrari-Carano's Iconic Fumé Blanc

Posted by Alan Boehmer Jul 30, 2008

The history of Sauvignon Blanc in California is so full of twists and turns it could easily be the subject of an entire book. It was relatively unpopular until the late 1960s when Robert Mondavi rechristened his Sauvignon Blanc as Fumé Blanc, suggesting a connection to Pouilly-Fumé from the Loire Valley in France. Mondavi set a new style for California Sauvignon—fuller bodied and oak influenced. It became an overnight success and remains so to this day.

In the years following, wineries that produced Sauvignons in the Mondavi style began using the Fumé moniker; those sticking with a clean, fresh, crisp style staying with the Sauvignon Blanc label; or in increasing numbers, simply naming their wine Sauvignon.

Everything changed with the introduction of Sauvignons from New Zealand. Even the intractable French became influenced by the new agressive style that featured crisp acidity and strong gooseberry flavors. While some wine lovers applauded this new style Sauvignon, others preferred their wine to be softer, with balanced flavors.

Our tasting panel recently assessed Ferrari-Carano's 2007 Fumé Blanc from Sonoma County in a double blind tasting event that included nine other varieties. Some of our experienced tasters mistook it for Roussanne, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Gris—all soft and round varieties. If you are a fan of Oregon Pinot Gris you will love this wine. Its lovely and complex nose of sweet grapefruit, pineapple, green apple, melon and vanilla is a result of the skilful blending of vineyard lots from Russisn River, Dry Creek and Alexander Valley. It's a triumph of winemaking expertise that blends stainless steel lots with neutral oak lots followed by careful ageing on the lees.

With superior Sauvignons gaining in recognition and price, the Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc is a bargain at $17.