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The Aesthetic Dress Movement, Part II

© A. Wilson

The Rational Dress Society was formed in 1881 as an outgrowth of an article written by Viscountess Haberton and published in the Queen advocating the divided skirt. EM King subsequently subscribed to her views. Believing that fashion’s roots were primarily ornamental rather than practical, she maintained that corsets and tight lacing led to bodily deformity. She denounced the subtle transformation of fashion believing that reformation needed to be immediate rather than gradual. The Rational Dress Society’s Gazette clearly states its goals:

The Rational Dress Society protests against the introduction of any fashion in dress that either deforms the figure, impedes the movements of the body, or in any way tends to injure the health. It protest against the wearing of tightly-fitting corsets, of high -heeled shoes; of heavily-weighted skirts, as rendering healthy exercise almost impossible; and of all tie down cloaks or other garments impeding on the movements of the arms. It protests against crinolines or crinolettes of any kind as ugly and deforming.

The preface to the Rational Dress Association’s 1883 exhibition catalogue outlines the goals of the society as ‘[promoting] and [encouraging] dress reform among men and women’. The society also advocated that this reform should be followed by both wearers and dress makers alike. The 1883 Exhibition intended to ‘require [all] to be dressed healthily, comfortably, and beautifully, to seek what conduces to health, comfort and beauty in our dress as a duty to ourselves and each other’.

In actuality, the 1883 Exhibition highlighted the issue of utility as it included examples of ‘Bathing and Life-saving dresses’ as well as an ‘Irrational Dress with tight bodice’. Exhibit twenty-four was an example of an ‘Hygienic Dress’, designed by Madame Lousia Beak of 24 Connaught Street, London, which boasted ‘an elegant appearance while retaining...several advantages; the weight of the garment was halved for the trouser covers the body fully and evenly...thereby (reducing) the layers of clothing’. It also eliminated the pressure from around the waist ‘so as to avoid muscle cramps whilst still allowing for freedom of movement’. This particular entry was offered in grey for ‘tricycle riding’; blue for ‘lawn tennis and boating’ and a girls’ dress was offered for ‘general exercising’. This entry was awarded a £10 prize.

It is interesting to note that the entry which was awarded the first prize was a travelling dress, submitted by Madame Brownjohn, which boasted the ability to be ‘converted into a handsome dinner dress in five minutes, without assistance...’. Versatility and aesthetics were still an essential part of successful fashion.

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