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The Bend in the River

© Bob Thaxton

Accommodations in the park are plentiful if you’re using a tent or an RV. Otherwise, you’ll have to find lodging either outside the park or at the Chisos Mountain Lodge. The lodge has an assortment of 72 rooms and cottages, and reservations are strongly recommended. It’s generally booked up well in advance for peak usage times. A room for two people will cost approximately $75 a night plus tax. Most of the rooms are furnished with two double beds, but there are no TVs or telephones in any of them. If you’re reluctant to be cut off from the outside world, you’ll want to stay elsewhere. Of course, for some people, the absence of TVs and phones will be a factor in the lodge’s favor.

The dining room at the Chisos Mountain Lodge is the only place to go for sit-down restaurant service in the park. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served at the lodge, but don’t plan on any late-night suppers. The dining room closes at 8 p.m.

What’s there to do at Big Bend National Park? Much more than we can tell you about here. In fact, a hefty book could be written about all the activities you can find to occupy your time in the park and surrounding area. Of course, time itself is a crucial factor. If you’re only going to be in the park for a single day or for an afternoon and the following morning, you’ll be doing good to see most of the park via driving tours. If you’ve got a three-day weekend, you’ll see some more. But it really requires a full week to see all the park, some of the nearby attractions and go on some short hikes or guided tours with park rangers.

One of the hikes that shouldn’t be missed is the trail into Santa Elena Canyon. It’s short enough for walkers of all ages and endurance levels, and the view of the canyon walls from the bank of the Rio Grande is spectacular. Nearby is the “ferry” (actually nothing more than a rowboat) that takes visitors across the river to the tiny Mexican village of Santa Elena. Four little restaurants operate in Santa Elena, but you won’t find gourmet cuisine in any of them. The local chefs didn’t study with Emeril Lagasse or Wolfgang Puck. Their training undoubtedly occurred in mama’s kitchen.

Some visitors won’t indulge in more than a bottle or two of beer in Santa Elena. But there’s actually little risk of contracting any food-borne illnesses if you follow a couple of simple rules. First, eat only what has been thoroughly cooked. This means steer clear of any salads, uncooked vegetables, fruit, eggs or dairy products. Second, drink only bottled water if you must have water. Soft drinks or beer are better choices.