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You can either grow old gracefully, or you can just grow old. A 2000 surf documentary, “Surfing for Life,” features several living surfing legends still charging the waves in their 70s, 80s and 90s. Hawaii’s Rabbit Kekai is 81 and spends his days goofing around in the line-up, showing youngsters the nuances of the waves and passing on the knowledge which was passed to him by the legends before him. Californian surf photographer John “Doc” Ball is in his 90s and still bombs his neighborhood hills on a skateboard and surfs the frigid Nor Cal fury near his home. These grandfathers are the living totems of our surf-heritage. They are the pioneers of our era. They are living history. And they should act like it.
Two recent encounters with living surf legends taught me something about following your path to the end of the line: you can grow old gracefully – beautifully even – or you can just grow old. * * *
I confirmed his date of birth, and then asked him where he grew up. “You know, I am so sick of talking about this shit,” Phil began, sounding tense. “I’ve been talking about this shit for 45 years and I’m sick of it. Why don’t you just buy my fucking book? Are you done already?” Well… I guess so. Phil’s book, “You Should Have Been Here An Hour Ago,” – which is, by the way, long out of print – is dedicated to “the legions of the unjazzed.”, and seems to be largely written by a ghost-writer; I dug up some old articles on Edwards and found one in particular from the Honolulu Star Bulletin concerning Edwards at an endorsement signing. A company was releasing a full line of Phil Edwards clothing. “I hate this,” Edwards tells the reporter. “I really, really hate this.” Edwards reportedly refuses autographs, argues that people are ruining the clothing and grumps and grips throughout the session. All this from the man who is considered “the first professional” surfer since having received $23 on each Phil Edwards signature model the Hobie Alter sold. This from a man who graced the cover of Sports Illustrated, who traveled the world, and who lived a comfortable and leisure filled life, all because of surfing. The man barely had to work a day in his life thanks to the adoration surfing showered on him, and what thanks does he have – short-tempered contempt.
The copyright of the article Rusty Relic, Shiny Relic in Surfing is owned by Nathan Myers. Permission to republish Rusty Relic, Shiny Relic in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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