The main problem with writing about surfing is surf. Right when you got work to do, that's when the swell hits. Then it's decision time: work or surf? Hmmmmmm.... let me think about that one. Yeah right. I'm already gone. I'm in the water. Bye.
So my apologies to all my loyal readers (let's see, that list is about two people long: my editor - sorry Linda - and my girlfriend - hey baby!), for posting this article at the very last possible instant, and also, for not really having anything to say. Except that I surfed my butt off this month.
No wait. That's not true. While I did surf my butt off, I actually do have something to say. All that time out in the water two lessons that I have learned over the years kept turnig over in my mind. I kept thinking, how can I incorporate these two lessons into one article. Well, at the risk of failing to be clever, I'm just going to tell you. For those of you experienced and seasoned surfers, these lessons are probably an old hat you forgot was even on your head, but for those of you just getting your feet wet, well then come gather 'round close.
ONE: Paddling Out.
Duck diving is one of the most difficult and elusive skills to master in surfing. While it is so fundamental, it can take years to get it perfected, and even then it can always use a bit of tweaking towards specific situations. Learning when to ditch your board, when to paddle over the top, when to dive early and when to try to paddle under the lip are all just a matter of experience (and BAD experiences are the best teachers). But in general, one principle should govern your duck dive decision making. I call it "Forward Thinking." When paddling out you see that big set looming towards you, always, always, always, charge straight at the wave as hard as you can. No matter how bad it seems like you're going to get clobbered, no matter how menacing that pitching lip looks, keep paddling straight toward the belly of the beast. You see, the wave is moving toward you, so if you keep moving toward it, you might be surprised how quickly you can get there, and maybe even slip right under that horrible, washing-machine-wearing lip. And if you don't make it - even in the worst possible scenarios - you're still going to need that extra ground you made as you charge toward the next wave sneaking up behind it.
So my apologies to all my loyal readers (let's see, that list is about two people long: my editor - sorry Linda - and my girlfriend - hey baby!), for posting this article at the very last possible instant, and also, for not really having anything to say. Except that I surfed my butt off this month.
No wait. That's not true. While I did surf my butt off, I actually do have something to say. All that time out in the water two lessons that I have learned over the years kept turnig over in my mind. I kept thinking, how can I incorporate these two lessons into one article. Well, at the risk of failing to be clever, I'm just going to tell you. For those of you experienced and seasoned surfers, these lessons are probably an old hat you forgot was even on your head, but for those of you just getting your feet wet, well then come gather 'round close.
ONE: Paddling Out.
Duck diving is one of the most difficult and elusive skills to master in surfing. While it is so fundamental, it can take years to get it perfected, and even then it can always use a bit of tweaking towards specific situations. Learning when to ditch your board, when to paddle over the top, when to dive early and when to try to paddle under the lip are all just a matter of experience (and BAD experiences are the best teachers). But in general, one principle should govern your duck dive decision making. I call it "Forward Thinking." When paddling out you see that big set looming towards you, always, always, always, charge straight at the wave as hard as you can. No matter how bad it seems like you're going to get clobbered, no matter how menacing that pitching lip looks, keep paddling straight toward the belly of the beast. You see, the wave is moving toward you, so if you keep moving toward it, you might be surprised how quickly you can get there, and maybe even slip right under that horrible, washing-machine-wearing lip. And if you don't make it - even in the worst possible scenarios - you're still going to need that extra ground you made as you charge toward the next wave sneaking up behind it.
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