The Paria Canyon is a sinuous wonderland of varnish-streaked walls, massive red rock amphitheaters, sandstone arches, wooded terraces and hanging gardens, all winding downstream to the Colorado River itself. And its long tributary, Buckskin Gulch, dives deep beneath the earth for a startlingly long stretch of dark narrows.
In 1984, Congress created the Paria Canyon-Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness Area. An act by President Clinton, in the dying days of his office, upgraded the wilderness to National Monument status.
In a statement issued November 2000, Clinton wrote: "Full of natural splendor and a sense of solitude, this area remains remote and unspoiled, qualities that are essential to the protection of the scientific and historic objects it contains."
The remote Monument is gaining popularity with it's new status, but permits are distinctly hard to come by. Rangers allow only 20 people in this 293,000-acre desert region per day, to preserve the sense of solitude and wonder waiting within.
The Real Deal: Buckskin Gulch
For thirteen solid miles of twisting, claustrophobic sandstone, you can't beat Buckskin Gulch. The high walls undulate endlessly, often close enough to touch. Several tight passages necessitate removing wider backpacks or turning sideways to traverse, especially in Wirepass Canyon.
Since most travelers start at the Wirepass Trailhead (shaving 3 miles off Buckskin's less-tight upper reaches), its junction with Buckskin proper is the first true open area hikers can escape to the plateau. There are also ancient petroglyphs here, on the northfacing wall of Wirepass Canyon.
"Buckskin was awe-inspiring," described Eck Doerry, of Flagstaff, about his recent 43-mile pack trip down Buckskin Gulch and on though Paria Canyon to Lees Ferry. "And it's hard to awe me, because I've seen a lot of things. It lived up to its reputation as the premier slot canyon on the plateau, if not the world."
Flagstaff computer programmer Tory Benetsen recently out-and-backed from the Wirepass Trailhead to the junction with Paria Canyon. "Buckskin is pretty damn spectacular," he enthused. "It's 100 percent good - I had been wanting to go there for a long time and was pleasantly surprised."
He added, "The narrows were longer than I expected and it was hard walking in the sand and gravel."
"It's a strenuous hike because of the sand," Doerry agreed. "It's hard for a fit person to get tired sometimes but this will do it."
Bennetsen recommended taking in Buckskin as a day hike, an out and back for people interested in seeing a narrow slot canyon without the hassle of a heavy backpack.
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