Canyon de Chelley: Ancient Footsteps

A Brief History of the Monument:

The Monument offers visitors the chance to learn about Southwestern Indian history - from the earliest residents who left only etchings on the canyon walls; to Anasasi Pueblans, who erected elaborate ceremonial compounds and cliff villages between AD 350-1300; to the modern Navajo people who live and farm on the canyon bottom.

In 1863, while the War Between the States raged in the East, legendary"Indian fighter" Kit Carson led a brutal campaign against the Navajo of the Southwest, whose raiding parties were seen as a threat by the United States government. Canyon de Chelly was one Navajo stronghold (pronounced "d'SHAY," from a Spanish mispronunciation of the Navajo name for the area, tsegi), and in 1864, Carson marched into the beautiful, steep-walled canyon to destroy cornfields, hogans and orchards. Without food or shelter, the Navajo surrendered. Thousands of them were forced to march 300 miles eastward across New Mexico to a parched reservation where they were held as prisoners of war. Throughout the nearly five years on the reservation at Fort Sumner, the Navajo people begged to be allowed to return to the land they considered"the heart of the world." Only half of their people survived the grueling "Long Walk" back to the canyon in 1868. Slowly, the people rebuilt their lives. Today there are approximately 80 families living in Canyon de Chelly.

The early morning light filtered downcanyon. So did the smell of coffee, my coffee, a mug of happiness to complement spreading sunshine on sandstone walls. In Navajoland's summertime, it's best to start your day early.

Our host, Spider Rock Campground owner Howard Smith, handed us a map for our self-guided exploration to a few little-known, well-hidden, but enchanting side canyons, tributaries to Canyon de Chelley itself. Only campground visitors may use this trail.

We picked our way carefully down the the tan-and-buff sloped slickrock to the sandy Cherry Canyon wash, a secluded two-mile pinyon pine and sagebrush wonderland. The wash ended suddenly, at dizzying viewpoint high above its junction with Canyon de Chelley. A perfect picnic spot for our small group of weekenders from the Flagstaff Outdoor Club. From there we climbed up to the east rim and wandered back to our campsite along breezy, white slickrock terraces.

Spider Rock Campground is Dineh (Navajo)-owned. We had greater privacy than we would have at the free government campground, the use of hot solar showers ($2.00 a head), and the sense of living close to another culture's reality. When we arrived late on a Friday, right away we were asked to be respectful and quiet. The sound of chanting, of drums, and the flicker of firelight through the juniper accompanied our camp-making preparations. Smith explained there was a ceremony going on.

Go To Page: 1 2 3 4 5