Christmas-time in Ketchikan, Alaska

A laid-back, tired little town on the coast, with smoke coming out of chimneys and dimming street lights on in the daytime. Nobody hurries, everyone's friendly, and we try to help each other out. A real community.

When Ketchikan, Alaska (population 11,000 in Winter) celebrates Christmas, it begins weeks in advance. The weather's usually not pleasant, but we almost always get our snow after the new year anyway, and decorations come out first.

The streets are lined with a wreath or candy-cane at each pole and corner and the downtown businesses all get in the spirit as well. Some of them even play caroles outside their doors and of course we'll find holiday sales abound.

We can look forward to Yulebukking; a Norwegian custom where the public is welcomed into all participating businesses and we're offered hot spiced cider, finger-sandwiches and pastries, and all kinds of goodies. Some of them offer small gifts, and there's an atmosphere of familiarity as small talk and more visiting takes place than business. The sidewalks are full with happy people and rushing children out business-hopping on Yulebukking Day.

Yearly, the Clover Pass Congregation makes up all the branches of the Singing Christmas Tree that gives concerts to the public. Clover Pass Church is in a wooded setting and was carved out by hand it seems, and adds to the power their choir sends out in song, literally moving you within. No music is needed as they stand around the levels of the wooden tree, singing from somewhere deep inside, and you always leave wondering if there really is a Santa Claus.

Speaking of Ol' St. Nick, what holiday season would be the same without seeing him somewhere in public? Even in this small coastal town, Santa comes in by helicopter to the mall and hands out stockings-ful of candy to children. Then, he boards a fire truck and the great horn honks his presence to the rest of the town, all the way to the docks, where Santa hands out more stockings-ful of candy. This is when the Mayor lights the town Christmas Tree on the dock, and we all stand around and sing Christmas Songs and visit.

Then, any child who wants to can run around to the downtown businesses who stay open and pay their employees late for this occasion. The children run through in groups, happy and racing to the next stop, getting a gift in exchange for a holiday greeting. Sometimes they get candy, sometimes they get nice little beaded purses or dolls, and sometimes they get toys, but each year they come home with a full tummy and full bags.

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