Wisteria floribunda, native to Japan (introduced to the US in 1830), is rated hardy from USDA zones 4 - 9. It revels in deep, moist, well-drained loam but it will put up with less than this as long as it has good drainage and is not allowed to dry out. It really must have its head in the sun if you want flowers; it will grow in shade, but it will not flower for you and flowers are really the prime reason to grow this vine. You do not want to fertilize this vine, except, perhaps in the very early years when you are trying to get it to cover, and then go easy on the nitrogen.
Wisteria are rather slow starters, but once they get going, they require annual pruning to keep them in bounds and encourage bud wood. Prune new growth back to just before the old wood. I try to prune for bloom in late winter, when I can see which buds are likely to be flower buds (they're fatter), and generally give the most errant stems a lopping in summer.
However, really controlled pruning is only for vines growing on low fences or kept low on purpose. Pruning mine is an undeniable chore, entailing trucking a pole pruner up to the flat roof and laboriously trying to select and cut stems from a distance. If I had a head for heights, I could climb out onto the trellis, but I don't. You do the best you can with them when they get huge. You can also train wisteria as a standard that will, over time, become a tree form.
There are several named cultivars in the trade. If you're going to buy one, select it at your local nursery while it is in bloom - that way you will know it is going to bloom and is old enough to bloom. Seed grown plants can take years to bloom, if ever, and may have inferior flowers.
