Growing From Seed - Page 6


© Marge Talt
Page 6
Some people swear you should always water your pots from below. Balderdash! I water from above and it works fine. Mother Nature waters from above, not below unless the seeds land in a bog. The secret is gentle watering so that you don't displace the seeds.

I have become a proponent of putting pots outdoors to let Nature take care of any cold stratification needs - unless, of course, it's a plant that wants warmth for germination. But, if you sow in summer or autumn or latish spring, you can still put seeds from warm germinators outside and let them get on with it.

I use fine screenwire to make covers for the flats of pots. It's quite easy since this can be cut with scissors. Just take an oblong about six inches larger all around than the size of your flat. Cut the corners diagonally toward the center to the six inch mark and bend the sides down, folding the corners and cutting off the excess. Secure with thin wire pieces or nylon thread. These screen tops keep out leaves, twigs, bits of garden detritus and critters but let water, light and air through. Put your flats in a shady spot that you pass frequently, so you will remember to check them, as they will need regular watering. You do not want the seed pots to dry out for an instant.

Pots stay in these flats until germination, some for two or three years. Don't throw out a seedpot until you've had it for a year or two. Some seeds just take much longer to germinate than you'd think.

Pricking Out Seedlings

Except for bulbs, Arisaema, Cyclamens and some others who want to stay in their seed pots for at least their first year, it is best to prick out seedlings once they either have a true set of leaves or are large enough to handle. Depending on their size, they can be moved to individual pots, rowed out in flats or put in large cell packs.

I like to pot on rather than try to line small seedlings out in an outdoor seedbed. There's just so much that can happen to a seedling in the big wide world and I prefer to keep an eye on them until they graduate to six inch pots or quart pots. When they've filled this size, I figure they are ready to take their place in the garden. With perennials or woody plants, this can take a few years, so you really need a cold frame if you don't have a greenhouse.

 

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Here's the follow-up discussion on this article: View all related messages

10.   Mar 31, 1999 8:58 PM
Hi Karyn,

Well, I probably should have been more explanatory with that "late sumer begins..." statement..sorry!

What I really meant is that by this time of year, most perennial and woody plant s ...


-- posted by Marge_Talt


9.   Mar 30, 1999 6:44 PM
Hi Marge:

Thanks for the clarification, you provided more than enough for me to do the research. What I should have done in the first place is quote your article, "Most real seedaholics have pretty ...


-- posted by dayan


8.   Mar 30, 1999 5:15 PM
Well, Karyn, the only seeds I know need to be sown in summer are bienniels. Early flowering perennials would also be sown then, sort of following nature's way.

If they are sown in nursery beds, ...


-- posted by Marge_Talt


7.   Mar 30, 1999 4:44 AM
Hi Marge:

I didn't explain myself very well there. I was refering to sowing seeds in flats/beds in the summer, presumably for transplant the following year. I know the nurseries start a batch of se ...


-- posted by dayan


6.   Mar 30, 1999 1:39 AM
Hi Karyn,

Well, right season or no, I still sow seeds when I "get around to it" :-)

As for summer planting. Well, you can actually plant just about anything container grown in summer. You can ...


-- posted by Marge_Talt





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