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Page 2
They want a highly organic soil and are not fond of heavy clay. In my garden, where heavy clay predominates, I have best results by planting 'high'. If the soil is really bad or full of tree roots, I will scrape out a shallow depression and set the root ball in it, just about on top of the natural soil. Then I backfill with a mix more to their liking (rotted woodchips, sand and peat). Depending on where this is, I may have to place a few discreet rocks or logs to hold back the new mix so it doesn't wash away - a semi-raised bed effect. If you don't have good rains once a week, you will need to water these plants, and especially when they are newly planted. I find mine benefit from having their foliage sprayed when the temps hit the 90's and stay there, it helps lower the temperature on the leaf surface.
When you go to buy Rhodies or Azaleas, pay attention to their ultimate size. Some of them get huge. I have a group of R. catawbiense that are upwards of 15' tall after about 15 years in the garden. (Photo courtesy of the Department of Entomology, VPI & SU, Blacksburg, VA 'Guide to the Trees and Shrubs of Virginia' site, which features photos of many plants suitable for the shady garden and other places beside Virginia.) Rhododendrons are subject to a number of diseases, which just makes growing them a bit more of a challenge than, say, marigolds. The American Phytopathological Society has published a List of Diseases of Rhododendrons. If your plants are looking peaky, this will give you a place to start tracking down what may be wrong with them. There are three major websites devoted to information about these plants. Two of them are in my list of Links, but I'm going to give them to you again along with other places to go for information and lots of utterly lovely photos that are guaranteed to make you run to your nearest nursery with money in your hand!
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