A Stitch In Time


© Brenda Cummings
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Like it or not, there will come a time when you can't rely on your sew machine for some sewing tasks. It is time to grab a needle and thread and do some hand sewing. Although it is more time consuming to hand sew, there are just some things that are as easy to do by hand.

In order to help you with your hand sewing, here are some common types of stitching you will need to know especially for dressmaking.

1. Tacking - This is not any old stitch, but a long and short stitch, which will hold the fabric pieces together for the purposes of fitting and which is better than large stitches of equal size.

2. Diagonal Tacking - It holds pleats, gathers, and overlaps in place.

3. Slip tacking - This is tacking from the right side and is the best way to deal with difficult patterns and checks. Press one seam allowance under and then position it correctly on top of the other seam line. Slip the needle alternately through the fold and then immediately below through the fabric.

4. Running Stitch - These are small, evenly sized and evenly spaced stitches which should be used as tacking for areas which require careful fitting, i.e, set in sleeves.

5. Stay stitching - It is a line of small running stitches or machine stitches which is worked just above the stitching line round curved edges to prevent them stretching. I prefer to do stay stitching with the sewing machine but it can be done by hand.

6. Back Stitch - It is a firm hand stitch for awkward areas where machine stitching is tricky,i.e, the overlap at the end of a waistband. Bring the needle out a stitch length beyond where the thread emerges. Insert it back again at the end of the previous stitch.

7. Slip Stitching - This is an invisible stitch used to draw two edges together invisibly, as in a hand-sewn lining. Slip the needle through the fold and immediately below where the needle comes out, take a small stitch of the fabric. Re-insert the needle immediately above.

8. Hand Hemming - An almost invisible stitch, hand hemming is worked from right to left with the hem draped over the fingers of the left hand. Pick up a thread from the fabric just below the folded edge of the hem, then a thread from the fold in the hem itself.

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