A Great Finish

In order to give your garments a more professional look and most importantly to avoid fraying, you must finish your seams. Seam finishes are added to each seam allowance after the seam has been stiched and pressed. Curved seams should have the seam finish applied before the seam is clipped or notched. If the seam finish will affect the width of the seam allowance, be certain that the garment fits properly before applying the finish.

The easiest way to finish your seams is with a serger that stitches around the edge of the seam allowance trimming off a bit of fabric as you stitch. If you don't have a serger in your sewing room then you may want to try some of the following techniques for finishing seams.

1. Edge Stitch The edge stich is the simples finish to do. Straight stitch approximately 1/4" from the raw edge. This finish is best for firmly woven fabrics that do not ravel or items that are lined and will be dry cleaned.

2. Stitch and Pink Straight stitch 1/4" from the edge of the seam allowance. Using pinkins shears, trim the raw edge close to the stitching. This is best for firmly woven fabrics with little tendancy to ravel.

3. Machine Zigzag Use a medium zigzag stitch and somewhat short stitch length, stitch close to the raw edge of the seam allowance. Do not stitch over the raw edge. Trim close to the stitching. The is the most common seam finish for medium-weight woven fabrics that ravel.

A good seam finish should have neat even stitches, be smooth (no puckers), control raveling, not add any unnecessary bulk to the garment, be neatly applied, and be appropriate for the type of fabric. There is no one right seam allowance, pick the one that is most appropriate for what fabric you are working with. When in doubt, consider investing in a basic serger. You will get your money's worth out of it.

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