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Most of the construction of any garment is done by machine and for the most part today's sewing machine is simple to use. Your machine is probably capable of far more than you ask it
to do, so read the instruction manual thoroughly to make sure you are taking full advantage of it.
The construction of seams are one of the most noticeable parts of any item of clothing especially on plain fabric. They should appear as smooth, flattering lines, no puckers, and pressed flat. To achieve this, use a suitable size of machine stitch, between numbers 2 and 3 on most machines(10-12 stitches per inch on older machines). Good thread which sinks into the material and a sharp machine needle are also needed. It's a good idea to test a seam on a scrap of fabric. If the machine stitching is tight and causing puckering adjust the machine tension referring to your manual. If individual yarns of the fabric itself are being pulled in from the sides then the machine needle is blunt and needs replacing. Make full use of the different stitches which are available on your machine. A stretch stitch is not only excellent for seams on stretch fabric, it is also very effective used as a bold top stitching on the right side of the fabric, to emphasize a seam on a shirt-type blouse. Many machines have limited embroidery stitches but even these can look extremely professional when used with restraint. Several parallel rows of a self-color embroidery (i.e., white on white) can look very good on a blouse front and on the cuffs. Even the basic feather stitch can often be used in place of a line of straight stitching for attaching lace or for stitching the hem of a skirt lining. When you finish a seam always turn the balance wheel of the sewing machine towards you so that you remove the fabric and cut the thread with the needle in its highest position. This means that the next movement of the needle is down so that it won't come unthreaded when you start to sew again. Reverse stitch at the end of the seam to secure the thread ends and finish off a seam. It isn't always necessary to do this especially if the seam is going to be crossed by another but it is important to do this with edges that may give when you are trying on and fitting the garment. Do not reverse stitch at the point of a dart, in stead simply knot the threads together. Go To Page: 1 2
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