Marking Your Pattern Pieces


© Brenda Cummings

When you have cut out your pieces, do not remove the pattern until you have transferred as much information as you can from the tissue to the fabric. As you become a more experienced dressmaker you will find ways of making dressmaking quicker, but skipping the marking isn't one of them.

You may prefer to mark with carbon, tracing paper or a marking pencil, or to use one of the gadgets for tailor's tacking on the market, rather than using thread. It doesn't matter which method you use , as long as you do mark your fabric. This means that you can join up the pieces accurately and this is the only way to achieve a professional look to your home sewing.

Tailor's Tacking

Use long double thread and take a small stitch through the pattern symbol and both layers of fabric, making sure that you leave a long end. Take a second stitch in exactly the same spot and pull the thread through, forming a loop. Cut the thread so that you leave another long end. Tease the fabric layers apart and cut the thread between them so that you leave a tuft of thread on each side. Center-front lines, pleats and tucks can be marked with thread, using tailor's tacking.

Smooth-textured fabric can be marked on the wrong side with dressmakers colored carbon paper and a tracing wheel, following the directions on the packet. You can also use colored chalk pencils.

Always mark:

1. Dots 2. Center-front and Center-back 3. Stitching and fold lines for things like pleats and pant zippers. 4. Darts 5. The position for pockets and buttonholes/buttons

After you have marked the pattern pieces and removed the tissue, you may want to label the fabric pieces especially if you are a beginner. Just pin a small piece of paper to each piece identifying it as a front, back, sleeve, pocket, etc. It is also helpful to identify the wrong side of the fabric when this is not immediately obvious.

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