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Making the Cut

© Brenda Cummings

Before you go ahead and cut out your pattern, you need to consider a few important points. First, do you need to make any adjustments to your pattern which will make it a better fit for you? The best time to do it is now before you cut your skirt several inches too short. Study the back of the pattern envelope for important information that will help you decide what pattern alterations may be necessary. Look for the "garment measurements" section and check out the exact length of the finished garments, skirt length, pants side length, etc. Compare these with your own measurements and if adjustments need to be done, the pattern will give a line to indicate where adjustments should be made to the length along with some instructions.

Next, have a close look at your fabric. Does it present any problems? Has it got a one-way design (i.e, flowers all going in one direction)? Does it have a pile or sheen (like velvet or taffeta). Your pattern pieces must be positioned so that any design is going the right way and the pile is lying the correct way. To choose the correct layout for the pattern pieces you must know three things: your fabric width, the view of the garment you are going to make, and your pattern size. If your fabric has a one-way design, pile or sheen choose the layout that is "with nap." With this information you can select the cutting layout which is relevant to you. A good tip is too circle the appropriate layout with a colored pen to avoid confusion with all the other layouts.

Plus check to see that your fabric is folded correctly (selvages together, right side in) . It should be flat when you cut it out so you may have to iron it especially if you washed your fabric first,which is a good idea. You need a large surface and good scissors for the job.

Before you cut, check:
1) the number of pattern pieces on your cutting layout against those on your fabric
2) that the grain arrows run parallel to the selvage
3) that those pieces marked "place on the fold" are in the correct position
4) that shaded pattern pieces are face down
5) whether the pattern piece is marked "cut one" or "cut four"
6) that "nap" has been taken into account.

Cut out the pattern using sharp, long-bladed scissors. Cut with the entire length of the blade using even strokes and making sure you keep exactly to the cutting line. Place one hand on the fabric next to and parallel with the shears as you cut. Don't lift the fabric up as this causes the pattern to shift. Cut out the main pieces, moving the fabric as little as possible. Cut the notches outward so you can see at a glance where the seams join and cut a double or triple notch as one

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