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Fabulous Fiji

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May 5, 2000

Drifting upward from 60 feet you explore the wall and coral reef habitat nearer the surface. More light at this 30-foot depth results in different fish, brighter colors, and schools of juvenile fish in all species. You stop to examine the soft corals feeding in the current and notice black and yellow crinoids clinging to the coral branches. A closer inspection finds brittlestars entwined around the soft corals and a lionfish peering at you from its hiding place underneath the ledge. A quick look out in the blue water over your left shoulder reveals a lone reef shark patrolling the wall. He keeps a respectable distance, cruising to find a school of snappers or grunts for lunch. At this depth you encounter large anemones with long pointed white tendrils hiding the tiny anemone shrimp. Territorial striped clownfish flit in and out, nervous that you are getting too close.

You notice the relationship between colorful fish at a "cleaning station" up ahead. A large orange tiger grouper is hovering motionless while tiny black and yellow gobies clean parasites from its mouth, gills, and body. Look closely, these symbiotic relationships exist all over the reef. The grouper opens its mouth and gills wide so the little cleaners can work. Darting in and out, they feed themselves while performing a valuable service to the larger fish. Just then a swarming school of blue tang swoop in to feed on the short, pointed spikes of the antler coral a few feet away. They engulf the coral in a flurry of feasting, leaving the water churned up with pieces of algae and coral as they swim away. Groups of juvenile parrotfish and wrasse follow behind picking up the scraps. A silvery, sleek barracuda glides overhead watching the action from a distance.

All too soon it is time to surface as you reluctantly drift upward and clamor into the boat. "Bula" (hello) rings out from the native divemasters welcoming you aboard as you shed your gear and exchange excited accounts of critter sitings with your buddy. You dry quickly in the warm sunshine, enjoying a snack before donning wet dive gear and taking another giant stride into Fiji's fabulous underwater realm.

IF YOU GO

Fiji encompasses over 300 islands ranging from tiny coral atolls to the mountainous rainforested islands of Viti Levu and Vanua Levu, located 1,100 miles south of the equator. Upscale resorts in Nadi, along the Coral Coast, and on many of the outlying islands, offer a variety of accommodations and dive packages. Scuba instruction is available at many resorts with full-service dive and water sports facilities. The certification course including four or five open-water dives will take about five days. For those not ready to scuba dive, or children under 12, snorkeling trips are also offered. Most resorts have good snorkeling right off the beach. Several liveaboard dive boats offer seven to 10- and 14-day trips. Visit Nai'a and the Fiji Aggressor on the Web.